Thanks for talking about older games on a podcast. I like the other podcasts out there but as interesting as the latest JJP or Stern is there is a zero percent chance of me ever dropping 9 grand on a pin. There are so many great old games and most of the podcasts ignore them.

I have a beehive over cupped inserts on a Flight 2000. Completely flat now.

My F2K is a bit darker roast.

Check out the far right pin on J2. Moles housing is completely melted away.

I keep meaning to build a new board and re-pin everything but it’s all still working so…….

IMG_3063 (resized).jpeg

Hey all,

I was having issues with the left flipper on my Flight 2000 so I decided it was time to replace the coil. I had already done the left side a few years ago so the right was due.

I popped in a brand new j-25-475 and soldered it up to match how the old one was installed.

When I turned on the machine it booted up fine and started a game.

When I tested the flipper the game instantly reset and went dead.

When I turn it on now I only get 6 pongs instead of 7 and the game won’t fully boot.

Looking closer it looks like I blew the 7amp fuse F4.

I can certainly replace that but any idea why replacing the coil on the flipper would cause that? Just a fluke or could something be wired up wrong?

Okay. I see the problem now. I double and triple checked the wiring and swore it was the same. Once I went to post the photos I stupidly realized in my reference photo I’m holding the coil with the lugs facing up while installed they are facing down. Doh!

So the outer wires are reversed. I guess I have some soldering to do and need to dig up a 7 amp fuse.

Okay so I got s new fuse in place in F2K and I noticed the right flipper makes a bit of a buzzing sound while holding/cradling. ( I recally the old one was doing that too before it crapped out) I took a look inside and noticed the brand new coil was getting nice and hot and about to let all the magic smoke out.

So, I'm guessing maybe the voltage is off going to that flipper? Is it weird that it would be too hot going only to the right and not also to the left?

The rectifier board in this thing is a real mess, has been since back in the 80s when it came off route. It got toasted at some point and someone rebuilt it. I have been meaning to put in a new one at some point but kept putting it off as it seemed to be working fine. Do you think this is a sign it is time?

What should I be testing?

Hot yes, starting to smoke though? That's not normal. This wasn't just hot, it was starting to smoke.

I guess I don't know what you mean by end of stroke opening. I did notice that when I flip either flipper the GI lighting dims slightly each time. It didn't used to do that.

Ah, gotcha, yeah, if it doesn't open fully I can see how that would be an issue. I'll take a look. Thanks.

I took a look at the flipper this morning and tried to test out whether or not the EOS switch was opening and lo and behold...i can't tell. Turn out the coil got so hot when I was holding down the flipper yesterday (for like 10 seconds) that it melted the coil sleeve. So, the flipper won't flip even manually so no way to really tell if the EOS is working. It DOES look charred like there has been arcing. I figure I can just replace the switch either way, looks like it could stand a fresh switch. I'm guessing my brand new coil is fried now too. Boo. Time to place another order. While I have you all here reading, anything else I should watch out for besides the switch? I'd hate to re-do all of this and ruin another coil.

It had a 7amp in it and that blew for sure when I had the coil wired backwards. I replaced with another 7 amp and re-wired the coil. That one did not blow when it got toasty.

If I toasted the transistor too would the flipper have worked at all?

The new coil was from Pinball Life.

Yes, Flight 2000. It calls for 7 amp. I did put in a 5 amp after the original 7 blew when I wired it backwards. I saw many people saying 5 was fine as others here have said. The 5 blew after a few flips (probably due to bad EOS but I figured it must just really need 7 and not 5. I’m going to replace the switch and order a new coil and try again. Always something to learn.

That’s interesting. Is F4 on the stern rectifier board supposed to be fast blow or slow blow?

Just wanted to drop back in and give a shout out to everyone who made suggestions on my Flight 2000. It WAS the EOS switch. I rummaged though my part bin and found both a spare switch and a serviceable coil so she's flipping again.

My wife made me acrylic protectors for F2K. If I recall we went with 1/8 inch larger so they sit slightly out from the original and provide more protection. They look great.