(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

8 months ago



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Topic index (key posts)

6 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #227 Various gate tips. Posted by cottonm4 (8 months ago)

Post #269 Hi quality thoughts from Cotton about inlanes. Posted by cottonm4 (8 months ago)

Post #279 Playfield touch up tips. Posted by klr650 (8 months ago)

Post #309 Stern inserts suggestions. Posted by cottonm4 (7 months ago)

Post #310 Seawitch gate flap solution. Posted by frunch (7 months ago)

Post #1033 Bally drop targets on the classic stern, even mix and match. Posted by cottonm4 (3 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#876 4 months ago

Does anyone know of a source for the "Stern" coin door decal?

1 week later
#916 3 months ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

Flat top (non-acorned) 9/16 is what I have on most of my classic Sterns.

Yes, I had the same ones on a Wild Fyre and on a Hot Hand that I have now.

#944 3 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Is stargazer the only stern with the extra metal rails under the playfield?

I have them on my Hot Hand but don't remember them on a Wild Fyre I used to own.

#960 3 months ago

On my Hot Hand, the feature lamps glow at the proper brightness during Attract mode and gameplay. But in Test mode they are much dimmer. Is this by design or a problem?

1 week later
#981 3 months ago

Heading down the homestretch of getting my Hot Hand ready for sale.

The folks who had the game before me, for some unknown reason, stored the backglass between two slabs of styrofoam. Kept it from breaking but the rough finish of the styrofoam rubbed off some of the ink. So I bought a new translite for it. The old backglass has the usual metal lift channel, two plastic side channels, but it has this metal strip across the top with two 90 degree flanges on the back that are used to lock it in place.

What is the best way to get this metal strip off the old glass, and the lift channel as well?

Thanks.

1 week later
#1049 89 days ago

Issue with a Hot Hand.

The drop targets are supposed to score 500 points when hit, and 2000 points when the 4X lamp is lit. On my machine, sometimes that happens. But most of the time it starts scoring points like mad, sometimes it stops when you drain the ball, but other times I have to shut the thing off to stop the scoring.

I t has a brand new NVRAM Weebly MPU that I have triple-checked for the correct game settings. The solder joints for the diodes and caps on each drop target are tight. On the Switch Matrix, all five of the DT switches are on Strobe 3 with the other 3 switches unused.

Before I go ripping off a bunch of perfectly good caps and diodes, is there something else to look for?

Thanks,

Alan

#1051 89 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

To help with isolating switches, you might try blocking 3 or 4 switches with some business card paper. Block 3 or 4 and if the points are still rolling you need to isolate some different switches.

Good idea, going to try it now.

#1052 89 days ago

cottonm4, tried what you suggested. When I block 4 out of 5 switches in turn, the unblocked queen and jack DT's, with their target dropped, will continue to score points when I pound on the side of the playfield until the outhole switch is activated or until I shut it off. I cleaned all 5 switches with the business card strips, no change. Should I replace the diodes on these two switches?

#1057 89 days ago

Yes, there are no caps on the switches, i was wrong in my initial post.

I block 4 out of the five targets, each time leaving one different target unblocked. When the unblocked target is the 10, King or Ace, it scores 500 as it should when it drops and nothing else happens when I pound on the playfield.
When the Jack or Queen are unblocked and drop they begin to score rapidly and sometimes stop when the outhole switch is closed or they just keep on going. No pause between every 500 or so, just steady rapid scoring.
I'm going to replace the diodes on the Jack and Queen, and I will report back.

#1068 86 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Yes, there are no caps on the switches, i was wrong in my initial post.
I block 4 out of the five targets, each time leaving one different target unblocked. When the unblocked target is the 10, King or Ace, it scores 500 as it should when it drops and nothing else happens when I pound on the playfield.
When the Jack or Queen are unblocked and drop they begin to score rapidly and sometimes stop when the outhole switch is closed or they just keep on going. No pause between every 500 or so, just steady rapid scoring.
I'm going to replace the diodes on the Jack and Queen, and I will report back.

Here's the upshot: not a diode problem, a switch adjustment problem. When the jack or queen drop target fell, their switch contacts appeared to be closed as they should. But there was just a hair's breadth gap between them so that (I guess) that the voltage jumped across this miniscule gap and vibration kept it jumping and the switch continued to rack up points. If anyone has a better explanation I'd love to hear it, as I actually have been wrong before! My wife can explain in detail. Adjusted these switches and the machine works great. Going up for sale soon. Thanks for all the suggestions.

1 week later
#1168 79 days ago

Archived after 1 day
123 views
Sold elsewhere
Machine - For Sale
Hot Hand Archived
Partially restored (almost original) “For sale: A classic Stern 1979 "Hot Hand" pinball machine. This is a fun, family game with a card playing theme. A solid state machine, it is in 100% working condition, which makes...”
2019-03-02
Jarrettsville, MD
1,095

#1198 76 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

molasses is not harmful to the environment. And for some people it is great on pancakes.

...and vanilla ice cream!

1 week later
#1259 69 days ago

Take both hex screws out if you haven't already, shoot a little 3-In-One oil in the holes, wait a few minutes, the use the "pull and twist from the top and whack 'em from the bottom. Hard.

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