Quoted from semicolin:

Mark me down for one. I would absolutely love this.

Quoted from Coyote:

I think it was added during the Meteor runs? because some Meteor's left the factory withOUT them. (Mine included..)

Quoted from cottonm4:

If someone were to send him a cab he would at least be in a position to make flat packs. His Williams cab flat packs cost around $300.00. So, by the time you put it all together, your sweat equity will be around another $300.00.

Quoted from Classic_Stern:

$10 dollars - I would replace on my current games.
$20 dollars - If I needed them. Might keep 1 set in stock. (I have some on parts playfields, loose though)
$25 dollars - Starting to feel it in the wallet
Thanks for doing this.

Quoted from BorgDog:

basically a universal replacement drop target mech for any machine you could think of and would be great for homebrew as well.

Quoted from greatwichjohn:

I received a offer of both titles. Nineball looked very good as a file & I did not open the other (stitch scan). I need art ready to print. So all the colors not needed in print would need to be removed & other things fixed. The scan was 600 dpi, & my first printer said 300 dpi is good enough for production. I just confirmed my plastic lense order for 3/4" & 1" blue trans circle lenses. There is a real lense shortage going on!

Quoted from Coyote:

Check the artwork!!

Quoted from Thrillhouse:

The end of the trough guide is forked. Shim the top fork up a bit and the ball will roll back into the shooter lane. This will also change the angle that the ball exits on and help stop the bang backs.

Quoted from Alby:

Hi,
Currently restoring a Meteor and in the process of buying parts but having trouble with 2 parts.
BUMPER BODY - DEAD (B-10431) Marco or Pinball Life dont have stock and im having trouble working out what part number i need to replace the yellow stand up.
Any help would be appreciated.

Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Working on a nine ball for a friend. Game is finally booting correctly and starting up mostly correct. I'm curious about these drop targets though. Most times when the game starts they wont all reset. As if a few don't catch the little ledge and drop back down. Is there something I'm missing that helps keep them standing better?
They're not nice and straight like drops from Williams machines. It's this the norm for Classc Stern machines? [quoted image]

Quoted from gdonovan:

I figured that from looking at the schematic, what about other titles?

Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Also, do all Meteors have a 2 button test mech? I see on older machines it is just the one.

Quoted from Hammerhead:

I have these two scans
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Quoted from cottonm4:

With prices of everything shooting to the moon, how much would you pay for a pair of slims levers?
The last time I canvassed people about price, I think &25.00 each was about what anyone would pay.
Maybe Pinball Life would be who to call as PL said he would not step on Kerry’s toes.

Quoted from Apinplayer:

I know it's a long shot but wanted to see if anyone has an old left side slingshot kicker arm they want to sell? It's for a Stars I'm working on and I want to keep it as original as possible. I actually found the broken tip in the wire harness when I pulled it off lol.
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Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Speaking of Big Game, any news regarding repro playfields from any makers? This will be my first restoration attempt and lack of options are of course holding me up

Quoted from hisokajp:

I am running into another interesting issue (or should i say frustrating?) on my SG conversion project.
The left slingshot fire during game play, which i think i narrow down as happening once in a while when i flip either flipper (maybe even when i release the flipper).
I crossed out a switch issue as the slingshot fire without scoring any point. I swapped coils, even swapped the whole slingshot assembly and it always stay with the left side so i thought it was a issue with the ground.
I swapped another brand new solenoid board and i got the exact same problem. I run a new dedicated wire from J2-9 to the slingshot coil and still had the same problem, so it isn't the board or the wire?
I moved J2-1 and 2 (flipper sw) and J2-9 into a new connector and only plugged those 3 in J2, same problem still...
The flipper assy are brand new from PBL and looked like they are wired correctly with diode in the right place as well? How would that even short the left slingshot ground?
Am I missing something here? What would make that sling activate?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from play_pinball:

I had an uneducated hunch recently about this but are you all suggesting there may be phantom triggers related to the newer aftermarket boards? I was thinking about how my F2K and Galaxy don't seem to have misfires on coils but my other classic sterns do. The difference between those two and the others is the original vs aftermarket (both Weebly and Alltek).
I'm not trying to besmirch the good names of Weebly or Alltek, but is that a possibility?

Quoted from GoldenOreos:

CPR just posted 9ball playfields.

Quoted from sethbenjamin:

I just did a long-delayed playfield swap on my Stars, and am really in love with the results.
As with any playfield swap, I:
- cleaned the wiring harness
- fully disassembled the drop target banks, cleaned all parts, waxed the metal, replaced coil stops, and in this case replaced the drops with Swinks targets. These things are *great.*
- Installed Yoppsicle lamps for all controlled lights.
- new GI sockets
- Rebuilt the slingshots
- Rebuilt the pop bumper
- cleaned all coil brackets and waxed against future corrosion
- cleaned all trough metal guides and waxed.
I was always puzzled as to why Stars’ flippers felt weak compared to my Meteor and Stars, even after rebuilding them. Turns out the coil value was different and I just hadn’t been paying close enough attention.
I replaced the stock coils - J25-500/34-5050 - with the more common coils, J25-500/34/4500. The difference was massive. The flippers finally feel correct, not like they’re struggling to propel the ball. Everything is snappy and responsive.
I’ve had this Beehive playfield hanging on the wall for close to 2 years, so it was great to finally get it in the machine and do all the deep work I’d been wanting to to make it play its best.
In order to offend the purists maximally, I’ve also got Dick Hamill’s Stars 2021 code running. I love being able to play the game in two completely different modes. Honestly I still play Stars primarily in Classic mode, but being able to boot up a completely different rule set and soundscape is mighty cool.
Very nice work by both Mike Lund at Beehive Pinball and DickHamill!
Next will be to restore the cabinet and get this thing minty fresh. But for now, it plays beautifully, and that’s the most important thing.
Beehive Stars 2.0:

Beehive Stars 2.0 w/2021 Rule Set:

Quoted from sethbenjamin:

I’ve only played Nine Ball a couple of times but it turned into a sort of white whale for me once I saw how damn much money people were getting for them. Maybe I’ll hate it, lol. But I can at least sell it and make back most of the money I put in, I guess.

Quoted from cottonm4:

Did you get yourself a play field?

Quoted from cottonm4:

While I have been doing my builds here are a couple of things I do that may, or may not, help someone out.
For me, the easiest way to set the inside rail for the shooter lane is to cut a block of wood the same width as the shooter lane. Than clamp the block and drill two holes to get the rail mounted to the play field and then drill and fit the remaining holes. It will be located straight and square reliably.
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I also use the classic Stern pop bumper housings if I have them or the Data East units if I don't.
I like to drill a hole in the housing to feed to two pop lamp wires through. It helps with keeping the wires nice and tidy.
[quoted image]
The benefit of running the wires through the hole is that it 100% keeps them away from the travel of the pop skirt pointer. If anyone decides to do this, it is important to drill the hole in the same place as shown in my pics. If you drill the hole on the wrong side then one wire will be moving right through the skirt pointer.
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Quoted from Mathazar:

FWIW, my original Meteor playfield had the post before I swapped in a CPR, tho it looks likes an operator hodge-podged in a plastic post with washers....doesn't look factory.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Jecco74:

Wanted NOS Cheetah playfield. I will pay top dollar for the right playfield.
J

Quoted from Ollulanus:

Yeah, drama aside Greg/fantastic makes a far, far better product than CPR.

Quoted from cottonm4:

How does it work with the center pieces inside the "P", the"R", the "B", the "A", the "D"?
[quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

I have not yet heard anybody talking about scratch building a Nine Ball. If you have managed to locate the long drop target, the single drop target, and a wire harness, you are almost there. Almost.
You are going to need one of these wire forms. If you have one, treat it like gold. It is Nine Ball only, AFAIK. I made more than a few wire forms for Catacomb. I don't know if I can make one of these for Nine Ball or not. I'll give it a try once I get some other things finished.
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This wire operates the scoring switch up in the U-Turn.
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Quoted from sethbenjamin:

The problem is that the solenoid is on the end of the assembly and doesn’t not lift the targets consistently from one end to the other. It makes intuitive sense to tighten those set screws while the targets are down, but that’s the issue. Raise the targets up past their reset height to be sure they are all clearing the bar that they rest on when reset. I use a small clamp to hold the plunger all the way up against the coil stop, and tighten the set screws while it is in that position. This way, the tabs that need to engage the metal bar will come up over it by a healthy margin, like a full 1/16” or more, rather than just barely clearing it.
When the target is not raised high enough, it will drop on reset because it either never made it up to the point where the tab hangs into the bar, or it just barely made it and then slipped off. The longer the drop target bank, the more critical this setup becomes.
It takes a bit of fiddling, definitely do this with the bank on the workbench, but once it’s done, it’s DONE. No need to tweak or alter the bank, no need for stronger springs, none of it. I’d be curious to talk to someone who worked on the assembly line back in the day to find out what their process was like, we could all learn a lot.

Quoted from JakePG:

What's your guys' process when picking up a classic? Do you replace only things that need it, or do you usually go ahead and replace all the switches, coil sleeves/stops, flipper rebuild, etc...

Quoted from barakandl:

I've yet to document it well but the NVRAM.weebly.com mpu has a dedicated socket to plug in an Arduino. There is also the six pin plug for the external sound trigger.
Do not try to use the breakout board that plugs into mpu j5 on my replacement. It won't work and may damage a hc32 or the cpu chip.
To use the Arduino....
Remove 6802 at u9. We can't z state a 6802 like a 6800 so it must be removed.
Change two jumper shunts from 6802 to Arduino. They are near the Arduino socket. This routes the oscillator to the external clock divide by four circuitry.
Plug in programmed Arduino to dedicated mpu socket directly.