I would buy at least 2 pairs, thanks cottonm4
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Quoted from cottonm4:The credit display on my Catacomb is starting to show a little bit of extra light down by the Zero display. It is not static. It is flickering constantly.
Is this something that can be fixed or is it a signal that this display is going bad? I do not know how to trouble shoot a display.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
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Unfortunately that digit may be starting to outgass - it will take awhile to die completely but its demise is unfortunately inevitable.
Is sending the coin bezel off for re-chroming the best option to making it look good again or are folks doing something else?
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Fixed it! Thank you all for the help!
After chasing it around for a while, I did step by step troubleshooting trying many of the ideas you had put forward. After removing the J1 connector and doing some tests I plugged it back in and it magically worked. The repinned connector is a different sized molex with extra slots (left to right), and I am guessing that in earlier troubleshooting I put it back on one pin off. I have no idea what caused the issue in the first place, but in the process of initial troubleshooting I either put it on the wrong way or did not firmly reseat it.
The F5 fuse now gets warm after play, but not burning hot. I am guessing that is normal due to the electrical draw of the incandescent bulbs. I am going to be replacing the GI with lower powered 1 SMD Warm White LEDs I ordered too draw less power and make that less of a concern. Hopefully it will maintain the original glow. I still have some flakey light sockets and ordered some new ones to fix that issue and replace the ancient ones I had hot swapped in.
Depending on how warm the F5 fuse gets after changing things out to LEDS I may use the replacement I got as a spare or throw it in there.
After this, the only thing I have left to do is throw in a couple of X-Pin displays for the player 3 and 4 and I will have a 100% STARS that is fast and fun!
Thanks for all of the ideas and helping me through it!
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I would work on that solenoid driver board before you call it fully done/playable. That weird dual cap setup for the 5v filtering can be cleaned up with the correct single cap, and the cap for the high voltage is the original just waiting to fail on you and take your high voltage section with it.
Quoted from gdonovan:To answer your question.. maybe
The two biggest differences is the text under the "rams horns" I'd have to isolate and identify the font and then modify my cut files.
The other issue is it has the newer STERN logo which is made up of a series of dots.
I'd have to experiment and see how it comes out.[quoted image]
I'd appreciate it very much! Even if the Stern text was the old logo, it would be a drastic improvement over what I currently have. Thank you!
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