Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
Cheetah
Stern Electronics, 1980
Cosmic Princess
Stern Electronics, 1979
Dracula
Stern Electronics, 1979
Dragonfist
Stern Electronics, 1981
Flight 2000
Stern Electronics, 1980You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Shenanigander.
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Quoted from Its_me_aj:Any recommendations for fixing drop target brick shots?
Quoted from chuckwurt:Loosen the springs.
I put new drops on my Trident and they don't drop worth a shit! I tried tightening the springs tighter and tighter 3 times. So all this time I should have been trying to loosen them?
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Yes! tightening them would make it so they are less likely to drop. The tension keeps them latched. You want the ball to hit them and knock them backwards so they slide off the ledge and drop down.
I was thinking with the tighter spring as soon as the drop Target was knocked off the ledge it would be more prone to getting pulled down.
Quoted from TheLaw:People like to add weight to drop as well...althoguh if they're already in you're too late for that
Really? Interesting. How do they do that? Pennies on the back or something?
Quoted from cottonm4:You want the spring just tight enough to hold the target in the "up" position. The target will fall of its own weight. As Vid stated one time, if you apply some wax to the target "rest" bar and some wax to the edge of the target mounting point, "they will drop like stones".
If you have a drop target assembly that is all scuzzy and greasy you should remove it, disassemble it, clean it up and wax the moving parts. Once you have done that, just toy around with it for awhile and see how easy the targets drop when you give a slight push with your finger.
I read this tern "bricking" that gets talked about. I guess bricking is when the ball hits the target but the target does not drop. My thoughts on that are that maybe the drop target assembly is not located correctly in its slot on the play field. I'm learning that Stern's factory assembly was anything but precise. If a drop target assembly is located too far back in its slot then possibly the back of the drop target is contacting the play field wood before it has a chance to drop. I'm not sure, though. It is just a guess. But if my targets were not dropping properly per engineering design, proper location of the drop assembly is the first item I would be checking.
This sounds like good advice! I will tinker with this. I did hear that the new drop target molds are a little different and some people refuse to use them.
Quoted from cottonm4:Add a length of of solder along the length of the shank.
Hmmm I would think that the solder would get knocked loose after some time?
Quoted from statictrance:Hey all - Quick question on this Split Second I'm working on. So the good news is - It was up and working when I got it so now I'm just cleaning it up and working out the kinks. One thing I'm trying to confirm - when I have 2 balls locked up top, and I hit one of the 5 target bank the speech board starts saying 'Hurry, Hurry, Hurry' over and over again. I just wanted to know if that's correct, cause then getting additional (all 5? I swear I had a ball kick with only 4 down...) unlocks one for 2 ball multi ball so it makes sense - but the way it says it over and over makes it sound like a glitch. (then again, it's early 80s speech, so). The only one I'd played before was at Papa, and I don't think it has a working speech board - so I was hoping to make sure that sound was correct.
MB rules for this game are nuts, BTW... either hit the loop for top speed to light inlanes to release balls, complete the 5 bank 4 times to light the lights, make the top targets fast releases one ball, etc... and I may be missing a scenario there. Also - I didn't see anything in the manual - any scoring bonus to having 2-3 balls in play?
Picture included for the hell of it - someone asked to see progress, but it went from just in to up and running, so here it is. Next up is a full tear down/clean and wax, re-rubber, and touch up along the bottom of the glass. There's more paint loss on the playfield than I'd like to see, but I should at least be able to protect it and keep it in mind for a touch up/clear somewhere down the line.[quoted image]
I cant say for sure but I have listened to a lot of slam tilt podcasts (they are big classic stern fans) and they make fun of this specific call out all the time and they both just repeat hurry hurry hurry so im guessing that is what they are making fun of!!!
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:[quoted image][quoted image]
Looking good Jim! You know you want a Tiger Rag!!!
P.S. Good recent interview on Slam Tilt (I think it was slam tilt, I listen to so many podcasts and interviews I lose track)
Good luck collecting all classic Sterns!
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Good decision.
My big game last night needed some love[quoted image][quoted image]
That board is something else. Pretty sure my power board on my big game is just at toasty but I have a replacement board if needed when I bust out that project!
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Good decision.
My big game last night needed some love[quoted image][quoted image]
That board is something else. Pretty sure my power board on my big game is just at toasty but I have a replacement board if needed when I bust out that project!
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Yup. Put a new one in from Steve young last night. That was easy. Rewiring all those connectors was a nightmare.
Haha, I haven't done one of these boards yet but confident I can!
Quoted from Mitch:Christmas eve meteor repinning.
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Haha awesome! I should try that. I am a one pin at a time guy as well but this way seems more efficient for sure!
Quoted from Mitch:Well the galaxy I purchased will be sitting for awhile before I get around to it so I figured I would tackle the mpu alkaline damage before I store it.
Game booted up and played when I bought it so I figured the damage cant be that bad. Boy was I wrong. Battery was actually leaking liquid alkaline onto the lamp board.
I removed the mpu, clipped the battery then rinsed in acid toilet bowl cleaner while scrubbing the damage.
Then a rinse in 99% isopropyl alcohol and a blow dry with my compressor and air gun.
Next remove all damaged components and all headers, then refloat solder on any bare copper.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Major surgery! Looks like she will survive though. Nice work!
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:[quoted image][quoted image]
Coming along nicely. Purdy!
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Start stripping the topside. More work to go still.
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Man you are on a roll!!!
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Hot hand, dracula and seawitch playfield swap all in the queue right after!
You are an animal!!!!!!!
I learned something today that I thought I would share. I imagine some of you know this already but if you are using on altek board in a Stern 200 game you must change the clock setting jumpers over to the left side or else the machine does not play right. everything is slow. That was new to me and fixed my problem perfectly!
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Ive switched over to using the weebly boards...
Hey guys. I actually also have switched over to Weebly boards but I like to have on altek on hand so that I can troubleshoot it in any old Bally or Stern but I like the Weebly board action as well.
Quoted from Tsskinne:If you guys haven't seen Weebly now has an all in one board similar to Altek and cheaper. A friend just informed me yesterday, check it out!
https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html
https://nvram.weebly.com/uploads/5/4/2/5/54255141/mpu_combo_info-12.01.18.pdf
That is awesome! I think I should buy a few!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quoted from TheLaw:Does Altek not offer this?
Altek is more expensive. Other than that Altek is good to go as well.
Congrats on the new addition to the family. You have about 50 children now according to my calculation!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quoted from cottonm4:Many thanks for posting the solution. Every little bit helps.
I bought 100 caps and I usually just replace them all. Super cheap and easy to do. Gives all the switches a fresh new start!
Quoted from Redketchup:Viper for sale
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-viper-1#post-4788207
Iron maiden For sale
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-iron-maiden#post-4788206
here you go
Wow!!!!!!!!! Nice!
Quoted from cottonm4:From the Throw Nothing Away Dept.
I figured out a new use for those old worn out lamp sockets. The metal is rigid but still soft enough you can bend it all over. You know, you have done this hundreds of times when you replace bulbs.
Don't throw that old lamp away. The metal strap makes great brackets.
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That is brilliant!!!!!!!!!!!! I have to make the seawitch ball jam plastic thing soon and this will work well I think!
Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:Making progress on Dracula....
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looking awesome!!!!!!!
Quoted from Mitch:I'll post pics soon but finally getting most of my sterns up on legs and getting them running.
Meteor is pretty much done for now with a big thanks to cottonm4.
Stargazer is playable but rough. All the rest are untested or non booting but I will get it done. Almost all of them are hacked severely at the rectifier boards so most will be receiving new rectifier boards and rebuild the connector side.
My big push is on star gazer , quicksilver and seawitch.
Quicksilver is rough. It's back on its legs for what seems to be the first time in a long time.
Checked voltages at the rectifier board some are off and hacked so I pulled the transformer board today as it's way easier to replace or repair the rectifier boards on the bench.
Stargazer same issue same fix as quicksilver for now.
Seawitch is actually booting and playing with a new cpu. Needs a good clean and I need to replace some drop targets and the spinner then it should be done.... for now.
Nice man. I really have to get over to your place soon and check out the action.
Quoted from Redketchup:I will change it... easy with to copy!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Very nice!
Quoted from Mitch:Had to downvote that lol. Only solid state that should be on 5 ball is joker poker.
Haha. Agreed!
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