(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

5 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • Latest reply 40 hours ago by emsrph
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Topic index (key posts)

11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #227 Various gate tips. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #269 Hi quality thoughts from Cotton about inlanes. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #279 Playfield touch up tips. Posted by klr650 (5 years ago)

Post #309 Stern inserts suggestions. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #310 Seawitch gate flap solution. Posted by frunch (5 years ago)

Post #1033 Bally drop targets on the classic stern, even mix and match. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #1958 Star Gazer podcast episode link. Posted by DRDAVE (4 years ago)

Post #2587 Link to 3D printed parts available from HHaase. Posted by HHaase (4 years ago)

Post #2590 Link to 3D printed parts by Swinks, available at Shapeways. Posted by swinks (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2925 4 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I bet those painted targets, after a few hits, would start looking like some girl's fingernails that needed some new fingernail polish

Could try this. Corvette America is a good vendor and one restorer tells me it's tougher than most paint:

https://www.topflightautomotive.com/products/corvette-america-1958-2004-chevrolet-corvette-dye/

I'm sure other automotive parts sites have similar stuff.

3 weeks later
#3064 4 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

My Hot Hand had a slotted receiver and lockdown bar. I have no explanation for it. The pin was not beat up so I assume the lockdown/receiver assembly were original.

My Hot Hand SN 8381 has the slotted receiver too.

#3065 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Love my Hot Hand..
There's actually two unpopulated switches in the switch matrix that spot the Ace. One scores 500 points, the other scores endlessly like the upper pockets.

Wanted to find these for years, finally had the time. Didn't see it anywhere else so: The 500 point Ace is SW 22, the endless scoring Ace is SW 38.

#3069 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Are you considering rewiring one of the Hot Hand playfield switches to spot the Ace?

No, I like the difficulty.

I think the idea someone had of building the second card immediately after completing the first (on the same ball) is a good one. Looking to go through the program in pinmame and on paper and understand it. Got started four years ago (with Bally 6M$M) but then got too busy and stopped. Did some 6800 programming years (actually decades) ago.

1 month later
#3339 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Here is a tip. Forget the nails. Get some #4 1/2" long stainless sheet metal screws. They look nice. It is long shot that you would ever need to remove the rail, but if you ever need to remove the rail you will be glad you used screws instead of nails.
I got the idea from HEP.

But vandals will unscrew them and remove the rails and the glass and...! Okay, I need to stop thinking like a paranoid operator. I hate every minute of dealing with those damn twist nails.

3 months later
#3748 3 years ago

My Hot Hand's slingshot fiber link is broken. I thought a Bally plunger/link (left part in the pic) would work but it's too short and the hole in the fiber link is too small (looks like 3/16" diameter on Bally, 1/4" on Stern). Who if anyone has this part? Prefer the plunger and link as one unit but in a pinch I'll replace the roll pin and link.

20200907_104320 (resized).jpg20200907_104320 (resized).jpg
#3752 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Did you try a Gottlieb link? Pinball Resource has them

Will talk to Steve Young tomorrow, thanks.

1 week later
#3818 3 years ago

All five of the stationary targets on my Hot Hand have switch stacks that look like this. Is this correct? I would think the switch blades should be arranged so that the big round contacts come together.

20200920_154028 (resized).jpg20200920_154028 (resized).jpg
#3823 3 years ago

The pop contacts on this pin are that way too. I may turn them around the right way. Just got done rebuilding the pops and I want the best action possible.

#3837 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

If you want your pops to be real snappy just remove 200 wraps of wire from each pop. Then take another 100 wraps of wire off of your sling shot coils. That will spice things up a little bit.

I've considered this. If there's a 26 gauge 1000 turn coil already made, I'd rather just do a coil swap. Or get some new AN-26-1200s and mod them. The Stern originals look so nice with their clean factory wrappers.

#3839 3 years ago

Yeah I've had some SS Ballys since I was a teenager and I always took it as gospel that the gold-plated contacts on SS games were all that stood between smooth pinball action and a world of random intermittent junk. I couldn't wait to get my first good job, so that I could clean those contacts with MY VERY OWN business card.

The first time I called Steve Young for parts for my SS Bally Black Jack, I ordered a flex-stone. "YOU DON'T USE THAT ON THAT GAME!", he yelled. "I know, I know, it's for the FLIPPERS!", I pleaded back. After that we got along fine.

#3840 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

He also has some 850s for $5.00 each.

I don't know how much current those driver transistors can handle before they pop. Maybe someone will chime in on that.

I have noticed on my Centaur that the coil that shoots balls out of the flap to the playfield is an AO-25-950, and it's switched through a relay instead of being directly connected to the Darlington transistor.

8 months later
#5238 2 years ago

The ones position being zero all the time is a problem for the 7-digit Nixie displays I made. I've had them in Centaur for the last three years. The last digit always being zero has caused the ones tube on three of the four displays to get dim and finally go out. I think this is "cathode poisoning". Lately I've remembered to run the game in digit test for a few hours every month, to light all the digits on all tubes and save the last remaining one. If they were socketed I could rotate them but they're soldered in.

#5251 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Would a screen saver as Coyote indicates helps? Just every so often in attract mode it would count all the digits from 0-9? The game has that launch the balls things every 15 minutes or so if you have it set that way it could do it the same way, every 15 minutes, also cycle the displays a couple of times.

It would help.

My ideal would be a divide by 10 version that fully uses all 7 digits. Someone might make such a version for the Weebly with its expanded program space, or with the new open source arduino platform. (Shameless plug for my adapter board kit.)

One weakness in Centaur IMO is the fact that multiball is just more balls; making the scoring multiply with multiball (as I think Black Knight does) would be an incentive, and with /10 the five ball multiball could have 10x scoring without making the game easy to roll.

As it is now, Centaur is too easy unless you use the Oliver K "Home ROMS".

Okay back to classic Sterns, sorry.

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