I would say the output voltages would change very little with inputs of 110 to 120 volts. Ac power is not always stable. It fluctuates often. Thats why power supplies regulate and filter.
(Topic ID: 225496)
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Stern Electronics, 1980
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4 months later
Quoted from cadmium:Hello fellow early Stern enthusiasts! I like to replace the High Voltage shield on the driver boards on games that come in our shop. My friend PinballManiac40 suggested we offer them in our shop here. The lettering is etched on the underside of the acrylic.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1256-upkick-pinball/05017-bally-stern-solenoid-driver-board-high-voltage-shield[quoted image]
That's a great looking product. Anyone who has ever gotten shocked from a board in the back box can appreciate this.
3 weeks later
So depending on where the spinner stops causes the fuse to blow? And after spinning it shorts plus 5 volts on the switch matrix I assume.
1 week later
Quoted from play_pinball:I wish I had. I don't even have the supplies to do so. I keep asking my brother for advice on what to order and haven't been able to get it done yet. Mouser & GPE are daunting to me.
You can get the thermal breakers at Autozone or most auto supply stores.
Quoted from cottonm4:Really? I have never seen thermal push button breakers at the auto parts stores. I just tried both Autozone and O’rielly’s for “circuit breaker” and got nothing.
What search term do you use to find circuit breakers at the auto parts stores?
It looks like most of these are 6 amp or higher but I got some there a few years ago that were lower. I got the ones that reset themselves.
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1 week later
Quoted from JLay:Got my Stars CPR PF swap done and getting things dialed in. Overall working well, just regretting using the knock off connectors for the mechs, they suck and I’ll be switching to molex.
I’m realizing now that it’s pretty shitty to have that exposed metal rail above the pop bumper, the ball gets smashed into that thing so much. A new ball is already looking pretty dinged up...[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That game is really pretty. I like the look of the white rubber. Nice work.
Quoted from bigguybbr:I replaced the rectifier board and repinned all the connectors so it should be good. Voltages all check out at both the rectifier and the solenoid driver board.
I wonder if it could be a grounding issue or maybe a bad capacitor somewhere. This is my first solid state so I have to lean on tribal knowledge to work out some of these issues.[quoted image]
What is going on with the fuse on the far right ? Is it soldered in ?
Quoted from bigguybbr:That’s the main fuse. They put a little rubber cover on them now as a safety feature.
It looks like the fuse is not clipped in at the bottom. It may be just barely contacting the fuse holder.
11 months later
Maybe Swinks can make the arm. If the ring and rod assemblies they make can take the stress maybe the slingshot arms could also. Just a guess.
2 months later
I'm not sure if this one will work but the price is right. I have never done business with this company but it looks legit.
1 year later
Quoted from play_pinball:Question: Were these games assembled with red loctite on ALL the screws?!
That looks like it may be Glyptol. It was used to keep variable resistors from moving. I don't know why they would use it on everything.
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