Got my first classic stern. It needs a good cleaning but overall it’s pretty clean

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Any recommendations for fixing drop target brick shots?

Just stretch them out a bit?

Picked up a stern Dracula. Wow the sounds suck. The game is fun though

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Picked up a solid playable seawitch last night. I think I got a pretty decent deal on it. Hopefully I can turn it into a really nice game

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So stoked on this

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Quick question. Are all early stern cabinets the same? Would a stingray cab work for my galaxy?

Picked up a donor game and pf today! Now to figure out what to build out of them. I’m doing a star gazer for sure but I have enough parts to probably build a 2nd game as well.

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I was actually curious to see if you can convert a meteor harness to work with a star gazer

I dunno, my galaxy cab is pretty bad with water damage. Luckily I found a minty stingray cab to replace it with.

Finally had time to get galaxy all cleaned up with new rubbers, all lights working, and a few new things here and there. Just have a few posts to replace and finish the flipper rebuild.

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Our set up at the Dory Hill pinball camp out

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I have 3 meteors and all of them have the play field stiffeners. I feel like they were just randomly out on some runs of games

Right! My seawitch doesn’t have them. And neither did my dracula. I believe my stars does. I’ll have to double check

My seawitch is a brick bottom. Seems there is no consistency with anything!

Question on seawitch: I’m trying to set the coin credits to .50 a credit. I can’t get it. I’ve gone through the manual and matched up what they should be but I can either get one credit per quarter or 2 credits per quarter. I can’t get 2 quarters per credit though

It didn’t work. It might be the dip switches. I dunno. This happened yesterday so seawitch has to be pulled from location anyways

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I’ve used rustoleum, automotive paint with the same clear I use on playfields, self etched primer, and powder coating and I can honestly say there really isn’t much difference in any of them. I can recommend using a “clear bra” after painting and applying decals though.

anyone with a stars able to help me out? I have a white/grey? Wire in the backbox that’s folded up and tucked away near the solenoid driver J2 plug area. Can someone help me find where it goes? Also it looks like I’m missing the chime that’s on the far left side. Almost wondering if that’s all connected.

It’s not. It’s just tucked into the wire harness. I can try to get a picture soon

I was able to snag a few pics of my mystery wire. It looks like it could be white/green?

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I think that’s going to be my missing chime. I’ll have to find then other end of the wire. It not anywhere near the chime box

Hopefully it’s there. Now to piece together a chime unit

Rescued a magic yesterday. Little bit of pf wear, blown out back glass, solid cabinet, and unknown working condition. This could be fun

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Finally had some help setting up magic. Was able to get a look at it and it seems it has the prototype/ early run plastics on it. There is a little wear by the bottom star rollover and up near the saucer. The game didn’t boot but it did get one flash on the mpu. There is a decent amount of battery damage on it and when I was reseating all the socketed chips, I found a lot of damage on the u8 socket. I’ll try to swap an alltek in it tomorrow to see if I can get it up and running. Hopefully I can get it cleaned up and playing good enough to put on location.
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Put Magic out on location. I think I’m more stoked about it being available to the public more than anyone else is

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If you needed a magic backglass, Atari_Daze makes an amazing quality translight for it. Here’s a before and after

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I took one off today and it popped out just fine. But nice find on the replacement. I started my stargazer apron restore today finally. Got all the old paint stripped off and then primed.

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I picked up a decal kit from Jjsmooth a while back. We sprayed the apron base color today. I’ll apply the decals tomorrow and the clear everything. I had a hard time finding the blue I wanted so I decided to go with something that would work in the middle of the blues on the pf, the plastics, and the cabinet but still look ok. Hopefully this works.

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I chemically stripped most of it, the sanded off whatever was left. Then sprayed self etch primer followed by automotive base coat. I’ll apply decals and then spray a automotive clear after

We are decaled and cleared!!

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PPG DC2000

What’s everyone using for replacement legs? Pinball life ballys?

Wanna go through a little journey of our first cabinet restore? Well if not too bad because you’re going with us anyways!!! This started off as a parted out stingray cabinet that one of my buddies had. My galaxy cabinet is defrosted with water damage so by dad, who is awesome and does woodworking for fun, decided to start working on this. It needed the usual wood work but overall it was a solid base to start off on. With my dad being a body man by trade, this was pretty much a walk in the park for him. He got it all ready and primed up, sanded it down and primed it again. Then we decided to go with the prototype galaxy artwork. PinballPimp stencils are the only way to go. I’m amazed at how well everything laid down and lined up. As for paint materials we decided to go as cheap as possible just to see how this was going to come out. From the primer, to base, to clear, it was all cheap or colors we found on our shelves that we use for burner colors when painting a car. I just say, these colors worked perfect for this project!! The clear is nothing I would probably recommend to people as it was a product we’ve never used before and extremely cheap. It did however work perfect for this product. Anyways here’s a little walk through from start to today as the cabinet is still sitting in our paint booth. We will get on restoring the legs and coin doors and stuff next. I’m thinking we might high polish the side rails and lock down bar. I also have a feeling I’m going to be doing a pf restore in the near future.

Enjoy!!

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A little more

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And the almost final product to this point

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Here’s some photos outside to show to colors

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Yeah i saw that. The middle meteor on the sides is missing a piece. We probably could have added it but it’s all good. Thanks for the kind words everyone. Hopefully I’ll have legs and coin door resprayed in the next week or so. I’m excited to get this all together

I’m completely stumped on something and this might sound like a stupid question but can something bad on a rectifier board cause a weak flipper issue?

I have an extremely weak left flipper on stars. Replaced the EOS, made sure it was gapped right, new coil, new coil stop, made sure cabinet switch was good, new SDB, and it’s still weak. There are some hacks on the rectifier board but wasn’t sure if they would cause a weak flipper or not

Yes. Cabinet switch was also replaced

Worked on stars for a few. It’s definitely in the wiring. I need to replace some wires but I got it so you can actually make it to the top of the play field.

We may have just ran into a huge wall with my meteor restore. While my dad and I were working on the garage last night we noticed that there is a pretty good height difference in the original galaxy cab vs the stingray cab in the front. I’m really hoping it’s not going to cause any issues and we can just move forward. My original plan was to swap everything from the galaxy cab over to the empty stingray cab including the whole lockdown bar assembly. Not sure if that’s going to work now

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I was going to take the m-200 lockdown bar and mech from galaxy and swap it directly over. I don’t know if that’s going to work now because of the night difference in the front from the top edge of the cabinet to the top edge of the coin door. I may end up having to find an early lockdown assembly to out in there and not use the updated one. The only other issue I see is the playfield hangers being shorter as well from stingray to galaxy.

Luckily it’s not really a scratch build but more of a cabinet replacement.I’m going to be able to use everything from my galaxy into the stingray cab. I acquired it as a completely empty cabinet so I figured it would work perfect for this as the galaxy cabinet is literally falling apart from water damage. Oh well. I’ll figure out a way to make it all work

Thanks everyone. I guess we will see. I’ll make it work one way or another.

Here’s a side by side of the early Vs late lockdown bar receivers. Measurements are the same. The only difference is the round vs slats for the lockdown bar. For future reference if anyone else needs it.

Also set the pf in galaxy to see how it’s going to fit. The metal supports either need to come off or we need to change the pf supports on the inside of the cabinet.

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Has anyone had a game that won’t set high scores? I’m working on my cheetah and it won’t set a new high scores when it’s been beat

Ok this might be some of the issue. It does have a nvram in it

I think I got it. Clearing everything out of the memory seemed to do it.

Just joking. It didn’t work. Turned it off for a bit to check it. Went back to being weird. Might just order a new mpu and call it a day

It was well worth the try

I’ll try that as well just to see if that helps. I think it’s one of your nvrams in there barakandl

I cleared over decals on my star gazer apron. It came ok. I would have done it differently though.

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Here’s our set up for this years Dory Hill
Pinball camp out tournament.

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Dolphin glaze is a finishing glaze. It’s not high build. It’s a great product though.

I highly recommend using the upol one fill instead. It’s sticks to wood really good, and you can finish with it and then prime.

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There was talk at one time about a classic stern row at tpf too