(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by dothedoo
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Topic index (key posts)

11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #227 Various gate tips. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #269 Hi quality thoughts from Cotton about inlanes. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #279 Playfield touch up tips. Posted by klr650 (5 years ago)

Post #309 Stern inserts suggestions. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #310 Seawitch gate flap solution. Posted by frunch (5 years ago)

Post #1033 Bally drop targets on the classic stern, even mix and match. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #1958 Star Gazer podcast episode link. Posted by DRDAVE (4 years ago)

Post #2587 Link to 3D printed parts available from HHaase. Posted by HHaase (4 years ago)

Post #2590 Link to 3D printed parts by Swinks, available at Shapeways. Posted by swinks (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#4732 3 years ago
Quoted from lightingnut:

the old coil that was in the game the sleeve has an inset so the side with the ring sets flush with the coil face. The new coil does not have that.

This wont change the amount of flipper travel, only the plunger length and the thickness of the coil stop.

Quoted from lightingnut:

The EOS switch starts off closed and opens up about 3/4 of the travel of the flipper.

EOS switches are not preset when you buy them, they need to be adjusted for closed pressure and to have an 1/8 inch gap at full travel. If you adjust them for more closed pressure this will make them open up later in the travel stroke and more powerful.

#4734 3 years ago
Quoted from lightingnut:

The right flipper is the problem.

To me the right flipper looks correct. The left flipper looks like it has too much travel from worn parts.

Remember ball traps aren't supposed to be easy.

#4737 3 years ago
Quoted from lightingnut:

I do not think the flippers are in the proper resting position.

There is a bracket that the flipper comes to rest on, this bracket can be bent one way or another to slightly increase or decrease the flipper travel. Use this as a final adjustment to match the left and right flipper travel to be the same. When you do this you will have to reposition the bats resting position again.

1 month later
#4912 2 years ago

The spring plate is upside down (green line) when flipped over it will hold the stack to the play field better. Add more spacers (blue line) to lower the stack from the play field until the see-saw is down correctly, then readjust the contacts so it is open when down.

fff_LI (resized).jpgfff_LI (resized).jpg
#4915 2 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

the theory of operation is when the see saw is in the up/resting position it depresses the spoon which keeps the contact open. when the ball rolls down it releases the spoon and the leaf switches make contact.

Ok so you need to adjust the switch opposite from my last post, shouldn't be a big deal.

With all yours games you have never replaced a stack switch? You are supposed to save the fiber spacers for just this instance. If you don't have any I can mail you some.

10 months later
#6437 2 years ago

Start by removing the diode from the coil X and measuring the coil X for resistance. Then compare said resistance to the coil resistance chart.

https://www.pinballmedic.net/coilchart.html

If the coil reading is good then replace the diode with a new one and retest the coil during a game. If the coil reading is bad then replace the coil and diode with new and retest during a game.

Also install the diode the correct direction, the silver band toward the power wire. For this coil the power wire is yellow.

5 months later
#7212 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

The EOS switches are drawn incorrectly on the Quicksilver drawing above.

I am no Stern expert, so I don't know all Stern games of this era always used the same flipper coils. Or have the aftermarket suppliers gone to a single style universal coil to reduce inventory. The reason I say this is the Quicksilver drawing will work as drawn if the diodes are flipped 180 degrees on the coil. The key to the EOS switch is that it is wired across the heavy gauge winding on the coil.

2 months later
#7509 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I swapped sound boards and got my sounds back. it is a sound board problem.

When you changed the caps, you didn't change C-28 and C-30 and the header pins. Might start there.

3 months later
#7980 1 year ago

rcbrown316 I have been focused on that.

Relax and have beer!

Playball!!

3 weeks later
#8166 1 year ago
Quoted from wolftownjeff:

They were clean, the switches are new

You need to adjust the EOS switch to have more pressure on the contacts when they are closed. The switch and coil are getting warm causing a loss of power.

1 month later
#8553 12 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I got one put back together. It still needs the decals. It is a good looking door if I do say so myself.
[quoted image]

She's a beaut Clark.

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