Looking for some drop target return springs, 5A-171. What's a good substitute? The DE/Sega/Stern current spring? https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-drop-target-spring.html
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Looking for some drop target return springs, 5A-171. What's a good substitute? The DE/Sega/Stern current spring? https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-drop-target-spring.html
Quoted from SR230CC:I have mine setup this way. I think I need to have 2 levels for my in-lane plastics. I had the bigger rubber to make the X and Y harder but changed it back for guests to play. I will check out what flipper assemblies I have.
[quoted image]
Quoting this from SR230CC a few pages back because I'm helping a friend set up his Galaxy, and the lane guides aren't even close to a smooth transition to the flipper, and I want to get this playing right. Is it common to make modifications for a smooth transition, like slotting the lane guide holes or something?
IMG_20200905_163714329 (resized).jpgQuoted from cottonm4:What will you give. For a kicker and pivot pair?
And how many would you buy?
I would be in at $20 for a single kicker/pivot pair.
I would buy two pairs for the one game I own right now. If I thought these would not be available long-term I'd probably buy another two pairs for some future game.
I'd probably be willing to pay a bit more if necessary, but I wouldn't buy spares.
Answering the galaxy flipper questions:
- mechs are original ("type 1" style)
- it's possible they're bally bats. Owner said they were Stern replacements, but I'm not sure where they came from. The "type 2" replacements on my meteor are definitely smaller, but would only make up about half the difference.
- repositioning the entire mech seems like a good idea, I didn't know how much play was available there. Long-term I think the machine will eventually get a new set of mechs, so I might wait until then just to put fewer holes in the playfield.
- machine is on location so I won't see it for a few days (hopefully). I'll take more pics this weekend.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:My question to this group at the moment is, what is it about classic Stern flippers which makes dead flipper passes so iffy? Unless the ball is really moving, many times allowing it to bounce over just makes it kind of die and drain SDTM. This doesn’t happen on the system 9 and 11 Williams games I’m more familiar with, or on the 90s pins I have worked on. Is it the “extra weight” of having a metal plate in the flipper body, making it less “live”? I really love the games, have yet to play a classic stern O didn’t enjoy, but it does require an adjustment in the “feel” of playing. Anyone have any insights on this?
Some of this may be because the shorter early Stern flipper bushings haven't been available until recently (to my knowledge at least), and bad bushings tend to let balls die on the flipper. Many games out there are probably still using original bushings.
Quoted from Its_me_aj:Question on seawitch: I’m trying to set the coin credits to .50 a credit. I can’t get it. I’ve gone through the manual and matched up what they should be but I can either get one credit per quarter or 2 credits per quarter. I can’t get 2 quarters per credit though
Highlighted bit below is what you're trying to use, correct?
If that's not working, you might check your board to see if moving the DIP switch actually changes anything, as those can go bad. You should also check that your coin door wiring matches the schematic, although if you have all chutes set the same, that won't make a difference here.
Screenshot 2022-09-19 193026 (resized).pngAnyone used the Blue S drop target decals from Marco? How's the quality? Any other sources out there? This is all I could find.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/13A-9-B-D
Having some issues I don't understand on a Magic I just put back together.
1. The Player 3 display is showing data from the credit display, on top of whatever it is supposed to show. For example during gameplay, the tens digit will be blank, and the 10k digit will say 3 if the game has 30 credits. This credit display info cycles in and out at a regular rate. The displays are new from Xpin. Everything works properly in display test mode.
2. A few playfield lights will flash on when they shouldn't. It's always the two orange spinner lights, the right outlane special, and the extra ball when lit insert at the top left. They will all flash on then off at the same time, at a regular interval. All bulbs are incandescent so it's not an LED thing. If one of those lights is supposed to be lit it will stay lit.
I'm kind of thinking these are both MPU issues, but I don't have a spare to swap and test at the moment. The MPU and LDB connectors have all been repinned. Any particular places I might want to look?
Quoted from Quench:What happens when you disconnect both the J2 and J3 connectors off the MPU board? Does the player #3 display work ok?
The signal responsible for display #3 is also used for the lamps and switches. You possibly have a switch shorting to something on the playfield so removing J2 and J3 from the MPU board disconnects all switches.
Both of the problems go away when disconnecting J2 and J3. I had another problem that I thought was unrelated so I didn't mention it, one of the top rollover lane switches will always cause a tilt. I will go through and take a closer look at everything under the playfield, thanks.
Quoted from CaffeineSlug:Both of the problems go away when disconnecting J2 and J3. I had another problem that I thought was unrelated so I didn't mention it, one of the top rollover lane switches will always cause a tilt. I will go through and take a closer look at everything under the playfield, thanks.
Found my switch problem!
20230510_082053~2.jpgQuoted from cottonm4:Thanks for posting the solution. I would be interested in how to discovered this well hidden problem. What tipped you?
Quench pointed out my weird light/display issues could be related to a switch problem. This is the "G" rollover at the top of the playfield. Closing the switch always caused a tilt, so that was the first place I looked. Originally I thought that might be an unrelated problem so I hadn't looked at it previously.
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