Does anyone know of a source for the "Stern" coin door decal?

Yes, I had the same ones on a Wild Fyre and on a Hot Hand that I have now.

I have them on my Hot Hand but don't remember them on a Wild Fyre I used to own.

On my Hot Hand, the feature lamps glow at the proper brightness during Attract mode and gameplay. But in Test mode they are much dimmer. Is this by design or a problem?

Heading down the homestretch of getting my Hot Hand ready for sale.

The folks who had the game before me, for some unknown reason, stored the backglass between two slabs of styrofoam. Kept it from breaking but the rough finish of the styrofoam rubbed off some of the ink. So I bought a new translite for it. The old backglass has the usual metal lift channel, two plastic side channels, but it has this metal strip across the top with two 90 degree flanges on the back that are used to lock it in place.

What is the best way to get this metal strip off the old glass, and the lift channel as well?

Thanks.

Issue with a Hot Hand.

The drop targets are supposed to score 500 points when hit, and 2000 points when the 4X lamp is lit. On my machine, sometimes that happens. But most of the time it starts scoring points like mad, sometimes it stops when you drain the ball, but other times I have to shut the thing off to stop the scoring.

I t has a brand new NVRAM Weebly MPU that I have triple-checked for the correct game settings. The solder joints for the diodes and caps on each drop target are tight. On the Switch Matrix, all five of the DT switches are on Strobe 3 with the other 3 switches unused.

Before I go ripping off a bunch of perfectly good caps and diodes, is there something else to look for?

Thanks,

Alan

Good idea, going to try it now.

cottonm4, tried what you suggested. When I block 4 out of 5 switches in turn, the unblocked queen and jack DT's, with their target dropped, will continue to score points when I pound on the side of the playfield until the outhole switch is activated or until I shut it off. I cleaned all 5 switches with the business card strips, no change. Should I replace the diodes on these two switches?

Yes, there are no caps on the switches, i was wrong in my initial post.

I block 4 out of the five targets, each time leaving one different target unblocked. When the unblocked target is the 10, King or Ace, it scores 500 as it should when it drops and nothing else happens when I pound on the playfield.
When the Jack or Queen are unblocked and drop they begin to score rapidly and sometimes stop when the outhole switch is closed or they just keep on going. No pause between every 500 or so, just steady rapid scoring.
I'm going to replace the diodes on the Jack and Queen, and I will report back.

Here's the upshot: not a diode problem, a switch adjustment problem. When the jack or queen drop target fell, their switch contacts appeared to be closed as they should. But there was just a hair's breadth gap between them so that (I guess) that the voltage jumped across this miniscule gap and vibration kept it jumping and the switch continued to rack up points. If anyone has a better explanation I'd love to hear it, as I actually have been wrong before! My wife can explain in detail. Adjusted these switches and the machine works great. Going up for sale soon. Thanks for all the suggestions.

...and vanilla ice cream!

Take both hex screws out if you haven't already, shoot a little 3-In-One oil in the holes, wait a few minutes, the use the "pull and twist from the top and whack 'em from the bottom. Hard.

Looking for a plastic for a classic Stern Wild Fyre. It is part # 13A-106-6, a small skinny plastic about 3 1`/2" between the two holes, 3/4" wide, with a yellow background and red flames. A guy on eBay has one for $17 shipped, but I'm trying to pinch some pennies on this one.

Thanks for looking,

Alan

What's a brick bottom?

I'm looking to perform the upgrades on Service Bulletin #11 to my Wild Fyre SB-100, 2nd Generation sound board.
It calls for the addition of a resistor and a 3.3uf 6 volt Tantalum capacitor. Are these Tantalum caps below? If not, what is the difference in this application?

20220925_144802 (resized).jpg

Another problem just cropped up this afternoon. I have a Stern Wild Fyre (MPU-100) that I bought recently that was working. Got it home, stripped and cleaned the playfield, remediated some small alkaline damage (I hope), and fired it up. This was two weeks ago. Game booted, got all seven flashes, displays work, goes into attract mode. All tests with the coin door button pass: switches, solenoids, sounds, etc. But it would not start a game even with credits on it. The Credit Button, switch #6, shows in Switch Test.

Now this afternoon, game won't boot, gets the flicker on the MPU LED at power up, a long pause and one flash, or sometimes shows flicker, flash, pause, flash, flash, and that's it. Voltage readings at all test points on the power supply board are correct, and before it quit booting all test points on all boards were correct.

I have replaced U7, U8 and U10 with no change. Do you think that I still could have some lingering alkaline cancer or perhaps is there something else i could try? Should I bite the bullet and buy a Weebly and turn this MPU into a rectangular frisbee? See pics below.

20220927_220205 (resized).jpg

20220927_220210 (resized).jpg

20220927_220222 (resized).jpg

20220927_220226 (resized).jpg

20220927_220232 (resized).jpg

20220927_220236 (resized).jpg

20220927_220301 (resized).jpg

U10 was also AMI. I did buy some used Motorola 6821s from a very nice person.
Now I'm up to six flashes. I have 43.3 VDC at TP5 on the P/S board. Searching further.

I meant that when pressed, switch 6 showed up in the Switch Test and went out when released.

For sale: Bringing to Allentown Pinfest or I can mail. Stern MPU-100 large-size schematic. Measures 33 1/2" by 22 1/2". Easy to read. $8.00 plus postage if mailing.

20230424_100307 (resized).jpg

20230424_100317 (resized).jpg

20230424_100335 (resized).jpg