(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

5 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #227 Various gate tips. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #269 Hi quality thoughts from Cotton about inlanes. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #279 Playfield touch up tips. Posted by klr650 (5 years ago)

Post #309 Stern inserts suggestions. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #310 Seawitch gate flap solution. Posted by frunch (5 years ago)

Post #1033 Bally drop targets on the classic stern, even mix and match. Posted by cottonm4 (5 years ago)

Post #1958 Star Gazer podcast episode link. Posted by DRDAVE (4 years ago)

Post #2587 Link to 3D printed parts available from HHaase. Posted by HHaase (4 years ago)

Post #2590 Link to 3D printed parts by Swinks, available at Shapeways. Posted by swinks (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#4005 3 years ago

Flynnyfalcon I wonder if you could wire up your flipper coils hot straight off the rectifier board using some jumper wires. This would eliminate (or demonstrate) a bad / weak connector or solder joint. Did you first try to jump the e.o.s. switch as well to see if the flipper strength improves? Sorry if I missed everything you’ve tried.
On a side note, I’m thinking If your voltage is correct then you would need to test your current. Does anyone know how much current a flipper coil draws? If your current is low or “off” then I’d be looking for a connector fault. You might simply try holding one flipper in for a length of time and checking the wiring connections in that circuit for a hot spot. You find a hot spot, you’ve found a problem.

#4018 3 years ago

Flynnyfalcon Might wanna check the flipper relay on the SDB, reheat the solder joints and clean and inspect the switches for proper gap. Could switch the SDB to check if there is any difference. As far as swapping in another transformer because it has a higher amp rating is probably going to give you the same effect as running down to your basement and swapping one of the 20 amp circuit breakers for a 30 amp breaker and expecting the lights to be brighter. Up your voltage to 130 or more and your lights will definitely get brighter - and fail sooner. Coils on the other hand can probably take it. Just for fun you could always try swapping in a 1970’s era Bally bingo transformer and supply the coils with 50 volts and get ‘em slamming. You’d need a second transformer for the 12 volts and you’d have to convert the displays to LED. Might be fun though. You’re dealing with a combination of mechanical and electrical issues which will both need restored - flippers and connectors rebuilt. I can see we need a Mythbusters approach to this subject.

#4023 3 years ago

Chicago Coin and early Stern lockdown bars are not interchangeable. However, both the skin and the liner are. The studs are mounted at the same width but about 1/2” to the front on the CC so that they fit into the receiver directly over (on top of) the front of the cabinet like Gottlieb. The CC bar could be converted by relocating the studs about 1/2” forward.
Look at rhe early Stern bar on the left, you can see where Stern used the CC liner and the hole where CC placed the stud.

Early Stern Lockdown Bar (resized).jpegEarly Stern Lockdown Bar (resized).jpeg
#4024 3 years ago

Here’s a better pic. The early Stern bar is on the bottom. Notice the hole about 1/2” to the top of the stud. That is where CC placed their stud. The Chicago Coin and early Stern receivers are not interchangeable and the CC receiver cannot be modified to work in an early Stern.

6B7DEF11-4B17-436D-A392-DD8E767A0316 (resized).jpeg6B7DEF11-4B17-436D-A392-DD8E767A0316 (resized).jpeg

#4028 3 years ago

Here’s the Chicago Coin Rail next to the early Stern. The Stern is on the bottom in the first pic and on the right in the second. The CC rail could absolutely be converted. Probably should have a machine shop do it though since a fixture would be needed to ensure proper fit.

86AA190D-F50C-4276-9947-FE8FB0FE22AD (resized).jpeg86AA190D-F50C-4276-9947-FE8FB0FE22AD (resized).jpegA07F65C4-0E67-487D-BBE3-4B25151B57AD (resized).jpegA07F65C4-0E67-487D-BBE3-4B25151B57AD (resized).jpeg
2 months later
#4454 3 years ago

I'd be in for a Trident.

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#4502 3 years ago

MMGB The probability is extremely high that you could fit an early Bally receiver and lockdown bar to your Stern Stars. Bally bars should be plentiful. The two catches mounted to the bottom of the playfield will likely have to be moved but that should be no big deal. The upside is that the rounded corners on the early Bally lockdown bars are more comfortable on the palms of your hands. Also, if you could locate a lockdown bar from early Sterns second version with the tabs such as one from a Meteor for example, the receiver is available new from Mantis.

2 months later
#4749 3 years ago

Gott_Lieb Thanks for that info and the memory. I was a Penn Ray customer. Salesman’s name was Bob Lapinski. Funny story:
Back in the early ‘80’s a bar location I serviced was robbed. The thief or thieves took among other things some rolls of quarters. The next day at a nearby convenience store a local police officer watched some young boys slugging a video game with rolls of quarters. What caught his attention was they played so much that they had piled up a number of used quarter wrappers onto the top of the machine. He took them and called the bar owner who in turn called me to ask where I got them. I explained that my wrappers were printed “Penn Ray Sutra” and were not available locally but were special order. Boom, nailed them!

1 year later
#6857 1 year ago
Quoted from Apinplayer:

I know it's a long shot but wanted to see if anyone has an old left side slingshot kicker arm they want to sell? It's for a Stars I'm working on and I want to keep it as original as possible. I actually found the broken tip in the wire harness when I pulled it off lol.
[quoted image]

Have it TIG welded. Acetylene is also excellent if you know someone with the skill.

1 month later
#6961 1 year ago

Aside from the standard expensive games like Quicksilver and Stargazer and to a lesser extent, Nine Ball and Seawitch I suggest:

Memory Lane because it has that one more game appeal all day long.
Stars and Trident are good games as they are and now both have new code available that raises their gameplay by deepening the rules. These three are underrated and fun IMO.

1 month later
#7223 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

This request came from out of the blue. It was a surprise.
I have been requested to make a Nine Ball lamp board for a guy who scored a populated NB play field (nice score). I have made the template and will cut a NB lamp board in a couple of days. Does anybody else need a NB lamp board while I am at it?

Put me in for one, please!

3 months later
#7725 1 year ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

A 4” length of drain pipe works well for this too - also nice for treating rusty legs!

A 3” X 34” piece of white drain pipe from Home Depot works well. Glue a cap on the bottom and a threaded cap on top. I use
3” X 33” plus 1” because it holds exactly one gallon with an inch to spare and because Evaporust ain’t cheap and I want the whole gallon in there. Two legs fit in there at one time. In case anyone is interested, there are 231cubic inches in one gallon. So:
3.14 X (1.5 squared) X 33 divided by 231= 233
Almost perfectly one gallon.

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