(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

3 years ago


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11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 6,775 posts in this topic. You are on page 96 of 136.
#4751 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

From a Casino Parts manual.
3 Tone Chime Assembly
1) pg.19 item 7 [ #6095 Rubber Grommet ]

I used GTB-2752 grommets from pinball resource in a chime unit for my stars machine. I also tried the Bally grommets and they do not fit.

3E6BEFA3-3CD5-4086-9134-76648F33473A (resized).jpeg
#4752 1 year ago

If ordering from The Pinball Resource, this is what i got for my chime box for Stars based on their suggestions (and has been working great):

8x GTB-2752
8x Bally M122-24 Eyelet
4x Short bell sleeve
4x Bally Plunger A550-6 (Note from PBR: May be a little heavier)

#4753 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

great vid!
Has anyone experimented with implementing a sound set for an early stern? It would be something special to incorporate Ali's voice into this one.
"What's my name???"
-mof

That had been my plan. I have a lisy.dev -35 board ready to go, but there is an issue with the classic Stern support due to the processing speed difference between Bally/Stern. Once that gets sorted, it would be trivial (but a fair amount of audio work) to redo the audio for the game using waveforms. Definitely potential!. Still, I'm quite happy as-is. Still love the bell mod.

#4754 1 year ago

When I got my Sterns I observed that Stern used these sexy flat top screws for attaching plastics to the wooden side rails. Trouble was that half of them were missing and I had to find some other screw for a replacement.

This is the flat top screw I had attaching my plastics. But I have found nowhere to buy these. But I worked up a solution for making my own.

This is an original Stern screw. You can see the flat top and beveled sides.

IMG_5987 (resized).JPG

I got some #8 stainless steel screws. Then I loaded them up in a drill and hit the top and the sides on a belt sander, followed by polishing them on the buffing wheel. It does not take long to convert a screw head. Now I can have all the flat top screws I want for my plastics.

IMG_5999 (resized).JPG

It is a minor detail, but it is something I have been wanting to figure out.

Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 1.28.13 PM (resized).png

The screw on the left is a Stern original. The next one is a standard #8 stainless screw. The one in the middle has just had its head sanded flat. And the next one has just had its sides sanded flat. The one on the right is completed and polished and looks like a Stern original.

If you have the tools, they are easy to make.

#4755 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

When I got my Sterns I observed that Stern used these sexy flat top screws for attaching plastics to the wooded side rails. Trouble was that half of them were missing and I had to find some other screw for a replacement.
This is the flat top screw I had attaching my plastics. But I have found nowhere to buy these. But I worked up a solution for making my own.
This is an original Stern screw. You can see the flat top and beveled sides.
[quoted image]
I got some #8 stainless steel screws. Then I loaded them up in a drill and hit the top and the sides on a belt sander, followed by polishing them on the buffing wheel. It does not take long to convert a screw head. Now I can have all the flat top screws I want for my plastics.
[quoted image]
It is a minor detail, but it is something I have been wanting to figure out.
[quoted image]
The screw on the left is a Stern original. The next one is a standard #8 stainless screw. The one in the middle has just had its head sanded flat. And the next one has just had its sides sanded flat. The one on the right is completed and polished and looks like a Star original.
If you have the tools, they are easy to make.

Bally/Stern/Williams used a Truss screw for the side plastic mounts...
Different suppliers have different screw-head outcomes.
Nice job on the replication.

#4756 1 year ago

I think u can get them at boltdepot.com

#4757 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

When I got my Sterns I observed that Stern used these sexy flat top screws for attaching plastics to the wooded side rails. Trouble was that half of them were missing and I had to find some other screw for a replacement. If you have the tools, they are easy to make.

Nice attention to detail. I will have to remember this for my restorations.

#4758 1 year ago

Yep

1616709872596744436259339421200 (resized).jpg
#4759 1 year ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

Yep
[quoted image]

"Yep" what?

Got a name so I know where to look? What is it called?

#4760 1 year ago

Sorry, truss head screw at boltdepot.com

#4763 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

That's a black phosphate drywall screw. And I am not finding any truss head screws.

https://www.boltdepot.com/Sheet_metal_screws_Self_tapping_Phillips_truss_head.aspx

#4764 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

That's a black phosphate drywall screw. And I am not finding any truss head screws.

?????
not finding any truss head screws...
?????
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/6-zinc-plated-phillips-truss-head-sheet-metal-screws-p/6014-012.htm

#4765 1 year ago

Yes these are the truss screws I purchased from boltdepot.com

#6 & #8 1/2 inch. The heads are wide but they are rounded, not flat top.

214E53C1-8835-43BF-8A13-E838447C23B0 (resized).jpeg
#4766 1 year ago

I'm trying to fix some strange behavior in my Catacomb. Are these disc capacitors correct for replacing those on the switches?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/vishay/d103m43z5ul63l6r/?qs=GtWgGqLahXebGpson6kwGg%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

Also in the manual, if I read it correctly an asterisk denotes when the disc capacitor is needed on a switch, correct?

#4767 1 year ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

I'm trying to fix some strange behavior in my Catacomb. Are these disc capacitors correct for replacing those on the switches?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/vishay/d103m43z5ul63l6r/?qs=GtWgGqLahXebGpson6kwGg%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD
Also in the manual, if I read it correctly an asterisk denotes when the disc capacitor is needed on a switch, correct?

From a Nugent pinball schematics:
All DIODES ARE 1N-4004
All CAPS. ARE .05MF 100V. DISC
Service Bulletin #4
Add ceramic disc capacitor to rollover button
.05 MF 100V
Stern Part No.
25A-12-10

#4768 1 year ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

I'm trying to fix some strange behavior in my Catacomb. Are these disc capacitors correct for replacing those on the switches?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/vishay/d103m43z5ul63l6r/?qs=GtWgGqLahXebGpson6kwGg%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD
Also in the manual, if I read it correctly an asterisk denotes when the disc capacitor is needed on a switch, correct?

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CCD-0.047uF-100V

14
#4769 1 year ago

Just got my Nine Ball up and running!

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#4771 1 year ago

putting your 9Ball for sale? Is that upper dead bumper missing?

#4772 1 year ago

Got a replacement just not installed

#4773 1 year ago

8 coats of clear new inserts and airbrushed overlays in 6th coat, 6 hours of wet sanding and color buffing to level out the playfield. Not completely done 5ED7C3E6-36A1-4563-9554-5AA4433E1A06 (resized).jpeg5ED7C3E6-36A1-4563-9554-5AA4433E1A06 (resized).jpeg

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#4774 1 year ago

Is sending the coin bezel off for re-chroming the best option to making it look good again or are folks doing something else?

#4775 1 year ago

I have a question about the drop-in pop assemblies used on Quicksilver, Cheetah, etc......as I'm sure someone has done this modification before:

I want to use molex connectors on each pop assembly for easy install & removal for maintenance in the future. The molex connectors would have to provide connection points for the GI light wires, the switch, coils, etc. I haven't fully wrapped by head around the exact type of molex connector I would need to make this work.

I'm thinking that an all-in-one 12 pin housing would be large enough, along with 0.093 round connector pins for the wires. Both male & female components for the housings & pins. That should work right? Perhaps I only need a 9 pin housing? Perhaps this is overkill, but my new QS harness came with molext connectors for the drop assemblies, so I just figured it would be nice to do for the pops as well.

If anyone has done his before I'd appreciate the input. Thanks!

#4776 1 year ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

I have a question about the drop-in pop assemblies used on Quicksilver, Cheetah, etc......as I'm sure someone has done this modification before:
I want to use molex connectors on each pop assembly for easy install & removal for maintenance in the future. The molex connectors would have to provide connection points for the GI light wires, the switch, coils, etc. I haven't fully wrapped by head around the exact type of molex connector I would need to make this work.
I'm thinking that an all-in-one 12 pin housing would be large enough, along with 0.093 round connector pins for the wires. Both male & female components for the housings & pins. That should work right? Perhaps I only need a 9 pin housing? Perhaps this is overkill, but my new QS harness came with molext connectors for the drop assemblies, so I just figured it would be nice to do for the pops as well.
If anyone has done his before I'd appreciate the input. Thanks!

Are you talking about the 2 leads to the lamp? I think it needs to be a pretty thin to get through the existing holes for those usually?

#4777 1 year ago

You need to connect/disconnect 2 wires for the bulb, 3 wires for the solenoid (2 of which will go into the same connector pin... the power feed loop), 4 that goes into the switch, of which 2 are shared.

So the minimum connector would be 6. 093 is fine. There's absolutely no reason to separate out the connectors that are doubled up, this way you can still test stuff with the connector removed because no required chained connections are broken.

Also, be aware that adding a connection adds another potential failure point. Yes, easy to pull the part out, but how often does that really happen anyway? Nice for a playfield swap, but overkill in normal usage. (Unless you have a lot of issues working on the playfield with it up, ie. you're short, your back hurts, etc.)

#4778 1 year ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

I have a question about the drop-in pop assemblies used on Quicksilver, Cheetah, etc......as I'm sure someone has done this modification before:
I want to use molex connectors on each pop assembly for easy install & removal for maintenance in the future. The molex connectors would have to provide connection points for the GI light wires, the switch, coils, etc. I haven't fully wrapped by head around the exact type of molex connector I would need to make this work.
I'm thinking that an all-in-one 12 pin housing would be large enough, along with 0.093 round connector pins for the wires. Both male & female components for the housings & pins. That should work right? Perhaps I only need a 9 pin housing? Perhaps this is overkill, but my new QS harness came with molext connectors for the drop assemblies, so I just figured it would be nice to do for the pops as well.
If anyone has done his before I'd appreciate the input. Thanks!

I used 6 pin 0.093”. Any double wires go into the same pin.

I wired all pop bumpers the same in case there is a reason to move one for diagnostic purposes.

BD55F519-DC40-474E-89CF-F34BB3263F14 (resized).png
#4779 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

You need to connect/disconnect 2 wires for the bulb, 3 wires for the solenoid (2 of which will go into the same connector pin... the power feed loop), 4 that goes into the switch, of which 2 are shared.
So the minimum connector would be 6. 093 is fine. There's absolutely no reason to separate out the connectors that are doubled up, this way you can still test stuff with the connector removed because no required chained connections are broken.
Also, be aware that adding a connection adds another potential failure point. Yes, easy to pull the part out, but how often does that really happen anyway? Nice for a playfield swap, but overkill in normal usage. (Unless you have a lot of issues working on the playfield with it up, ie. you're short, your back hurts, etc.)

Thanks for the info. But what is the correct way to crimp 2 wires to the same pin? Just crimp two wires into a single pin? It's ok to do that? My initial thought was to separate the wires that are doubled up to their each pin & use a 9-pin housing.

I agree it's another potential failure point, but I have a good crimping tool that I used on my Mata Hari build, and after replacing every single pin on that game without issue I'm pretty sure I can handle getting these QS pops right.

#4780 1 year ago

Yes, you crimp 2 wires into the same pin. Sometimes you have to strip it a little longer and there's no insulation able to fit in the pin, so make sure you don't hang off the bottom of the pop bumper after you do this.

#4781 1 year ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

I have a question about the drop-in pop assemblies used on Quicksilver, Cheetah, etc......as I'm sure someone has done this modification before:
I want to use molex connectors on each pop assembly for easy install & removal for maintenance in the future. The molex connectors would have to provide connection points for the GI light wires, the switch, coils, etc. I haven't fully wrapped by head around the exact type of molex connector I would need to make this work.
I'm thinking that an all-in-one 12 pin housing would be large enough, along with 0.093 round connector pins for the wires. Both male & female components for the housings & pins. That should work right? Perhaps I only need a 9 pin housing? Perhaps this is overkill, but my new QS harness came with molext connectors for the drop assemblies, so I just figured it would be nice to do for the pops as well.
If anyone has done his before I'd appreciate the input. Thanks!

I use 6-pin connectors on my Sterns. My Data East Robocop used 7 pins so I used a 9-pin connector.

Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Thanks for the info. But what is the correct way to crimp 2 wires to the same pin? Just crimp two wires into a single pin? It's ok to do that? My initial thought was to separate the wires that are doubled up to their each pin & use a 9-pin housing.
I agree it's another potential failure point, but I have a good crimping tool that I used on my Mata Hari build, and after replacing every single pin on that game without issue I'm pretty sure I can handle getting these QS pops right.

Quoted from slochar:

Yes, you crimp 2 wires into the same pin. Sometimes you have to strip it a little longer and there's no insulation able to fit in the pin, so make sure you don't hang off the bottom of the pop bumper after you do this.

Don't forget, you need to twist both wires together which makes them easier to load into the pin.

I was certified for wiring work at Beech Aircraft. If your wire was too small to crimp properly and tightly, it was/is allowed per Beech specs to twist a wire and a pigtail together to take up space in the crimp.

#4782 1 year ago

Thanks guys. I should be all set now

#4783 1 year ago

I replaced the right new flipper coil with the old coil, seams a little better but still weak. The flipper has a hard time getting the ball to the top of the playfield. I have the EOS going open just before the flipper stopes. So I do not thing that is the issue. It almost seams the most weak right at the start of the flipper travel. When the ball is at the end of the flipper. Does it change the strength of the flip any if I were to flip the coil around? The left flipper is good.

#4784 1 year ago
Quoted from lightingnut:

I replaced the right new flipper coil with the old coil, seams a little better but still weak. The flipper has a hard time getting the ball to the top of the playfield. I have the EOS going open just before the flipper stopes. So I do not thing that is the issue. It almost seams the most weak right at the start of the flipper travel. When the ball is at the end of the flipper. Does it change the strength of the flip any if I were to flip the coil around? The left flipper is good.

Do you have the same voltage on both flippers? I once had a HSII Getaway that had one weak flipper. Turns out I had like 70volts on one coil but only like 38volts on the other. Someone had re-pinned a connector and got one of the pins in the wrong slot.

#4785 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Do you have the same voltage on both flippers? I once had a HSII Getaway that had one weak flipper. Turns out I had like 70volts on one coil but only like 38volts on the other. Someone had re-pinned a connector and got one of the pins in the wrong slot.

I have not tried checking the voltage. Which is the best place to check for the voltage, at the flipper switch or at the coil?

#4786 1 year ago

Just measure from the power lug on the coil to a ground braid.

1 week later
#4789 1 year ago

I must have misunderstood their big announcement for the new printing process for their playfields or whatever it was a year ago. I thought they said there was no more "limited run" or "stock on hand" and they could have a playfield made on demand. I know they went out of stock on Catacomb, but are now back in stock on those.

#4790 1 year ago

Hey folks I’m working on restoring my Stars which will also be my first restoration with a CPR PF. Have a thread going in the restoration if anyone wants to follow.

I’m starting to populate the new PF but am not sure exactly of the order of operations to best get things lined up. I’ve installed the wire guides based on the dimples, and am starting to look at placing the rails. The holes on the new PF don’t line up great so I’ve plugged the holes on the tooth pics and will align them with the edge of the PF... I’m thinking I will need to install the inner shooter lane rail after the ball trough parts?

I’ve started removing the clear from around the post holes using Kruzmans install kit (and using the dimples after checking alignment with plastics...)

But now I feel a bit paralyzed and afraid to jump in to drilling everything out... any tips to the best order for installation to get the nest alignment? Thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shooting-for-the-stars-classic-stern-restoration

#4791 1 year ago
Quoted from JLay:

I’ve installed the wire guides based on the dimples, and am starting to look at placing the rails.

Trust *NONE* of the dimples on the repro playfields, check *EVERYTHING* against your original placements. Often the dimples are wrong, some are wrong, or some are right. I almost wish they didn't dimple them at all (it's really not that hard to mount mechanisms correctly....)

Even factory dimple marks can be off, I have a doctor who NOS where the standups were way off. I double check all dimples now.

#4792 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

Trust *NONE* of the dimples on the repro playfields, check *EVERYTHING* against your original placements. Often the dimples are wrong, some are wrong, or some are right. I almost wish they didn't dimple them at all (it's really not that hard to mount mechanisms correctly....)
Even factory dimple marks can be off, I have a doctor who NOS where the standups were way off. I double check all dimples now.

Yea I was a bit concerned with using the dimples for the wire guides but didnt see a way around it since I didn’t want a dimple right next to the wire. I did check them and they’re pretty close, but hard to say if it’s perfect. I can see now why you’d prefer they not dimple them. I did find one that was a few mm off for the plastic so I’m glad I caught that before removing the clear around it...

#4793 1 year ago

anybody have a spare one of these.(speaker grill)
im adding a second speaker to my meteor

i can pay or trade A stencil

METEOR
BY
STERN.

i made a bigger meteor by stern stencil with my cameo so i have an extra one from pinball pimp.

speaker grill (resized).jpg
#4794 1 year ago

On my Meteor I frequently get balls shot out of the trough so forcefully that they hit the metal plate and bounce back into the trough without enough momentum to come back out. Machine is dead level at around 6 degrees. Trough has no discernable flaws. Coil is at spec. Happens frequently enough to be a PITA. Anyone have a solution?

#4795 1 year ago

The ball bounces around a lot on my Galaxy, but stays out. Maybe I need a weaker coil.

#4796 1 year ago
Quoted from A_Bord:

On my Meteor I frequently get balls shot out of the trough so forcefully that they hit the metal plate and bounce back into the trough without enough momentum to come back out. Machine is dead level at around 6 degrees. Trough has no discernable flaws. Coil is at spec. Happens frequently enough to be a PITA. Anyone have a solution?

I had that problem when I put my Big Game back together. It did not do it before the restore but did it after. A real PIA. Finally, the coil seemed to settle down and the launches got back to normal, mostly. I do get an occasional push back and then the ball gets "stuck" inside and won't roll on out.

What I did the other day was bend a hump in both sides of the launch "fork"? for lack of a better word. And then did not screw it down to the play field very tight.

It is hard to explain. PM me if you need to and I will pull my apron and point out just what I did.

#4797 1 year ago
Quoted from A_Bord:

On my Meteor I frequently get balls shot out of the trough so forcefully that they hit the metal plate and bounce back into the trough without enough momentum to come back out. Machine is dead level at around 6 degrees. Trough has no discernable flaws. Coil is at spec. Happens frequently enough to be a PITA. Anyone have a solution?

I temporarily put a little strip of self stick Velcro (the fuzzy half) on the wall where the ball impacts. It deadens the hit so it doesn’t bounce back into the trough.

Definitely not an invisible fix but the game is waiting for a playfield swap which hopefully fixes the issue.

#4798 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I had that problem when I put my Big Game back together. It did not do it before the restore but did it after. A real PIA. Finally, the coil seemed to settle down and the launches got back to normal, mostly. I do get an occasional push back and then the ball gets "stuck" inside and won't roll on out.
What I did the other day was bend a hump in both sides of the launch "fork"? for lack of a better word. And then did not screw it down to the play field very tight.
It is hard to explain. PM me if you need to and I will pull my apron and point out just what I did.

Now that you mention that. Mine was after a playfield swap. Maybe the screw spacing is a little different on the fork. I’ll check it out.

#4799 1 year ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

The end of the trough guide is forked. Shim the top fork up a bit and the ball will roll back into the shooter lane. This will also change the angle that the ball exits on and help stop the bang backs.

I see we've been here before. Nice to know I'm not the only one.

(this was from a few years ago https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/23#post-4864065)

#4800 1 year ago
Quoted from SR230CC:

Now that you mention that. Mine was after a playfield swap. Maybe the screw spacing is a little different on the fork. I’ll check it out.

Possibly.

My Dragonfist has a small spring loaded arm at the top of the launcher that is supposed to keep the ball from banging all the way back down into the outhole but Dragonfist never has been a problem.

And I just discovered my Data East Robocop has a wire gate at the top of the the launcher apex to keep sa ball from bouncing all the way back into the outhole, but Robocop has never been a problem either.

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