Wondering if you found anything out. I have the same transformer, pinned correctly and hot voltages. Comparing to a stingray schematic all lugs are going where they should.
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I recently picked up my first non-modern pin: A Stern Hot Hand. I know I'm missing something from the coin mech, but since I have no experience with these I'm hoping I can get a little guidance as to what it is. I have to open the door and drop coins through the switch manually to add credits. Pictures below are the coin door as is:

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You are missing the coin mechanisms it looks like

In addition to the coin mechs, you are missing the piece that collects the rejected coins, and sends it to the coin return.

Awesome, thanks! Looking around it seems most parts suppliers only carry one style coin mech. Are they standardized across the manufacturers/systems, or will I need to hunt down a specific one for early Sterns?

Good to know. I've also got a small, loose coin return part that I bet this attaches to somehow.

Personally, I would not worry about the coin mechs. I know the Stern MPU 200 pins can be set up to award 14 credit with one coin and will max out at 40 credits.

I don't know if the MPU 100 pins (Hot Hand) will allow you to do this, but if you can, set it up to credit multiple games, and then make a jumper switch for one of the coin switches and credit up that way. Unless you are just wanting the full experience by dropping a coin. There are several different ways to make a jump switch, if you get interested in doing that.

Don’t know about Hot Hand but a replay may be set to a low score to award games

I might just end up both fixing the coin mech AND rigging the jump switch I do want to get it funtioning as intended just for the heck of it. I probably won't drop coins often if ever... but I want to be able to. I'd say about 70% of the reason I got this one was to tinker with it and learn some things.

This is how it's set up now. It's always got a few credits on it, and replay pops every game. I think I'm going to adjust it up, though. Give me goal to work towards.

Get you some free play roms for it. (not if you have alltek though).

Speaking of drop target switches, does anyone know where to source new versions of this switch? I can’t find a part number either. I was hoping to replace these while rebuilding the 3 & 4 drop target banks in my QS. These aren’t hard to access for adjustment so I don’t mind keeping them on the back.

I know I could move the switches to the bottom, but I’m not exactly sure how to do that. I’m guessing it would be a similar setup to a Bally bank with a different switch.

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What's wrong with these? They look good.

Got my apron decal from play_pinball over the weekend from the group buy her organized, again thank you, and got it applied for my Star Gazer build. Only two more weeks of wrestling season then I plan to dive back into finishing that project up.

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Looks like the bottom plate is not aster correctly.

Rollover button question. I have a Nugent and a Wild Fyre. Both have the rollover button on the left. Both were filthy and I wanted to replace them. All I found was the one on the right at Pinball Resource. They are shorter and won't reach to register. I've looked on Marco, Pinball Life and can't find these. I cleaned the originals and they look much better, but wanted to know if anyone has purchased replacements that are the same length. Thanks in advance. Bluebeard Don

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Do you see what is missing from your apron decal?

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Only one electronic, and not two...

Did you check pinball Resource?

does any body besides me get confused with hooking up diodes? I always think I have them figured out but then I wind up 2nd guessing myself.

Here is a diode test for everybody This blueprint is for a spinner on Star Gazer. The spinner is connected to a white/red wire and a white/green wire hi-lighted in red and green marker. And there is the triangle and cross line that represents the diode. Which way is the power coming from? w/r or w/g?

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Here is a training aid, mock up switch/wire assembly. The diode band is a little hard to see (cheap manufacturing perhaps?) but the non-banded side is soldered to the white/red wire.

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So, is this switch and diode wired correctly? Or does the diode need be flipped to the other direction?

You are close.

It should say Stern Electronics, Inc. Instead, we are stuck with Stern Electronic. How does this kind of crap happen?

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I noticed this before on Pinball Rescue's website and sent them an email pointing out the error. Here is the response I got from Lee:

"These are the only stern decals we have sold for years and sorry we do not have the Inc type you are referring to unfortunately."

I then asked why they couldn't or wouldn't correct the error and I never got a response back.

That’s where I bought the ones on the right. Slightly shorter than the originals.

I am going to say the power wire is the white/green and goes to the banded side of the diode. Correct?

That is the problem with pinball...
Ones factory brand has to alter a part to make it their own.

Signal always comes into the matrix on the strobe lines (STx) so that it can pass through the diode (non-banded end), then pass through the switch and out the “I” lines. Yours appears to be wired correctly.

Thanks. Got a question: Is the power wire, the hot wire, in the rows (the "I" wires) then?

No because the diode will block the signal coming from that direction.

OK. The direction of current flow is from the column (ST) wire and current flows in this direction with my mock up, from the w/r wire, though the diode from the non-banded side, and the contact on the switch blade contact is sitting there hot and as soon as the hot contact makes contact with its opposite, the circuit is complete and power is fed to the w/g wire, correct?

Does this have anything to do with converting AC current into DC current?

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I will have one more question when this one is resolved.

It was the rectifier board. I put together the Weebly one and I must have screwed it up somewhere. But I did change the transformers from the Wild Fyre to the Stars, and they were the same.

No, it doesn't have anything to do with converting AC to DC. The strobes are pulsed one at a time. This is how the MPU is able to discern which switches are closed on any given "I" line.

For example, when strobe ST0 is pulsed and the MPU detects a closed switch on I4, it knows it's the spinner switch even though, say, the middle drop target is down and it's switch (also on I4) is closed. The MPU won't detect the closed drop target switch until ST3 is pulsed.

This is why diodes are important. Since all switches on any given "I" line are tied together, when the pulse on ST0 passes through the closed spinner switch, it will be present at EVERY switch along I4. So say the drop target didn't have a diode and the switch was connected directly to ST3, or the diode was shorted (same thing - a direct connection to ST3). If the drop target is down and it's switch is closed, the ST0 pulse is going to pass through the spinner switch, traverse I4, pass through the drop target switch and there will be nothing to prevent the signal from appearing on ST3. In this situation, if the drop target is down and you get a good spinner rip, then hit the Aquarius stand up at the intersection of ST3 and I7, the strobe signal from the closed spinner switch is going to pass through the DT switch, appear on ST3, go through the Aquarius switch and be detected by the MPU. But since the MPU is strobing ST0, the switch the MPU is going to think is closed is the slam tilt!

Thank you. You have also answered the last question I was going to ask.

Looking for help with a spring for the Drop Targets on my Wild Fyre. They look to be much longer that the 1" I can find on Marco, Pinball Resource and Pinball Life. The distance they are stretched hooked in the bank seems to be 4". I know a 1" won't work.

Wild Fyre used a longer spring. I think this is the one you are looking for. The spring hooks to the target and to the lift lever below.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-364

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I don't know when Stern made the switch to the shorter spring. It also hooks to the target but Stern added a crosswise tube for the spring's lower attach point.

I have no opinion as to which way is better. However, since adding the cross tube and the 2 screws to attach it would have cost Stern extra money, my guess it Stern thought it got better performance with the short spring. Some hardware stores carry stainless steel tube that you can cut to size.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/0010-00275-0310

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Pretty sure I used Bally/Williams flipper extension springs when I rebuilt that style mech.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-extension-spring.html

So my galaxy schematics show two different wire/color coded for the coin mechs. On my galaxy when I drop a coin it may fire the galaxy kicker or not credit up. Anyone have a pic of the wiring? My game came literally cut all over. So I was piecing together as best I could.

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I'm technically in the club, picked up a Magic playfield.

I was looking at replacement plastics and the top arch on my game is yellow and has different artwork, where it's blue on the replacement plastics and every picture I've seen. QC date is 7/6/79. Prototype playfield?
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There was a little discussion in the Stern Magic club thread about different plastic sets:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/classic-stern-magic-club-all-are-welcome/page/2#post-6033908

Thanks!!

This is exactly what I dealt with. The Wild Fyre connects on the lift lever. The 2" spring from Marco on your hyperlink is listed as currently not available. Usually meaning they won't offer these anymore. I'll see what I can find that's closer to this. Thanks for the validation.

Steve Young at PBR probably has the springs you are looking for. He told me one time in a phone call that he knows all/most of the people who used to work in the pin industry and all he has to do is say "I need some of these" and his contacts know what to make.

I just took my Galaxy apart a few weeks ago (turning into a SG soon), that's what i have left of the coin door if that helps
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Good score....... I was couple hours too late on that one. I went out to that place in Bloomsburg & bought couple other Stern playfields & some other misc Stern parts on Saturday afternoon. Real nice looking Magic PF.

such a good deal... we never have those in the west coast!

It's so funny, we're all chasing the same thing here- I must have messaged the guy 30 mins after you about his classic stern stuff. If you have extras of anything, please let me know. Looking to do a SG now that the new PFs are available.

Even funnier.... I had been looking for a junk Meteor to do a SG build..... buddy of mine was out at that guys place 2 weeks ago & texts me that he has a nasty Meteor with no backbox.... PF was complete, cab was rough. I bought it sight unseen for $400. I've been working on restoring the cab in my non existent free time. It was ROUGH. I'm going to do a SG build/restoration post eventually. I'll probably wait till I get the Cab done first.

I saw that Magic PF pop up for sale & missed out on it, but guy says he has bunch of PF's including some Sterns, so I went out there Sat & bought the best of what he had left. Then come to realize it's same guy who my buddy bought the Meteor off of....

On bunch of the Stern PF's he had, someone had destroyed the drop target mechs on, tearing them apart without tools. He had a Flight 2000, but Drop target mechs gone of course. The PF's themselves were heavily worn. I just bought these for parts, couple good aprons etc.

Seawitch playfields. I have 8 here looking for a home. The future ones might be a darker blue version.

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I have a question regarding my Nugent. I have a picture of the coin door and the cabinet head. The coin door I believe I've read that you can use a chrome spray pain. If so, what's recommended to use? Also the cabinet is rough and I've never painted a cabinet, but wanted to now what paint to use? The original have the specks in the white. What have others used? Thanks Bluebeard Don

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Most people when repainting their coin door also paint their legs to match and buy new leg bolts and carriage bolts. Why put old worn carriage bolts and leg bolts on freshly painted metal. I think pinball resource, pinball life, etc. all carry carriage bolts. You’ll need 14; 12 for the coin door and 2 for the side rails. Buy new coin door decals. I think Nugent had a large square decal and a round credit decal but you can verify ipdb.org. Most people use Rustoleum Hammertone Silver for coin doors and legs.

For cabinet stencil order from Pinball Pimp. His online guides will help with color choices.

Make note of the length of each bolt! Some are short some are long....

looking for a copy of the score and instruction cards for cosmic princess.

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