(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,493 posts
  • 276 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by vec-tor
  • Topic is favorited by 152 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,441 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_0118 (resized).JPG
IMG_0117 (resized).JPG
Screen Shot 2021-01-15 at 2.31.52 PM (resized).png
living_room (resized).jpg
DSCF6308 (resized).JPG
67524235-0315-4502-AC6F-7EB635ED0934 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5405 (resized).JPG
IMG_5404 (resized).JPG
IMG_5403 (resized).JPG
IMG_5399 (resized).JPG
IMG_5397 (resized).JPG
IMG_0115 (resized).JPG
16104002066815999547714774844777 (resized).jpg
20210111_150246 (resized).jpg
20210111_150237 (resized).jpg
20210111_150219 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 4493 posts in this topic. You are on page 85 of 90.
#4201 54 days ago
Quoted from GoldenOreos:

I've had problems with new rottendog rectifier boards before. idk man seems weird. maybe swap with stars and see what happens.

Interesting idea, do you have any other mpu200 have to swap the transformer and rectifier assembly for a test?

#4202 54 days ago

It has taken a little while but I finally completed the conversion of making a Nine Ball cabinet into a Quicksilver cabinet. I have several winter projects; This soon to be a Quicksilver will fall in line with those other projects.

IMG_4979 (resized).JPG

IMG_4976 (resized).JPG

#4203 54 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It has taken a little while but I finally completed the conversion of making a Nine Ball cabinet into a Quicksilver cabinet. I have several winter projects; This soon to be a Quicksilver will fall in line with those other projects.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Look’n good!!

#4204 54 days ago

Thank you. What I can tell is that painting silver is tough. It is is almost worse than shooting black.

#4205 54 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Thank you. What I can tell is that painting silver is tough. It is is almost worse that shooting black.

silver is horrible! :S

#4206 54 days ago

Man, BG Resto has really filled out his inventory of Classic Stern back glasses.

http://bgresto.com
----------------------

I wish he would make a repro of Chicago Coin Stampede. I would really like to have one of these hanging on a wall.

Screen Shot 2020-11-22 at 9.37.41 PM (resized).png

#4207 53 days ago

Hello all, I was wondering if anyone had some pics of the back box on a Nugent. Specifically the routing of the wires in the upper left hand corner. I had taken some pictures before I had taken the boards out to be serviced, but I can’t retrieve them from my photos. I’m looking for the two connectors that go from one board to the other. Thanks, Joe

19
#4208 53 days ago

I thought I would share some pictures of the drop target mechs I have been scratch building in my spare time for some projects I am working on. I still have a few kinks to work out and a couple more parts to figure out how to make yet like the "lift mechanism" but I finally have a 3 and a 4 bank "shell" that doesn't look shitty compared to earlier test parts. The first one I made out of steel sort of a proof of concept then I made the other 2 out of stainless for no real reason other than I can I guess.

20201104_163220 (resized).jpg
20201123_191234 (resized).jpg
20201123_191248 (resized).jpg
20201123_191303 (resized).jpg
20201123_191320 (resized).jpg
20201123_191118 (resized).jpg
20201123_191138 (resized).jpg

#4209 53 days ago

----------------------
I wish he would make a repro of Chicago Coin Stampede. I would really like to have one of these hanging on a wall.
[quoted image]

I'd like both of them.

#4210 53 days ago
Quoted from 20eyes:

I thought I would share some pictures of the drop target mechs I have been scratch building in my spare time for some projects I am working on. I still have a few kinks to work out and a couple more parts to figure out how to make yet like the "lift mechanism" but I finally have a 3 and a 4 bank "shell" that doesn't look shitty compared to earlier test parts. The first one I made out of steel sort of a proof of concept then I made the other 2 out of stainless for no real reason other than I can I guess.

Very nice metal work. I’m sure you’ll have customers if you decide to start selling these.

#4211 53 days ago
Quoted from 20eyes:

I thought I would share some pictures of the drop target mechs I have been scratch building in my spare time for some projects I am working on. I still have a few kinks to work out and a couple more parts to figure out how to make yet like the "lift mechanism" but I finally have a 3 and a 4 bank "shell" that doesn't look shitty compared to earlier test parts. The first one I made out of steel sort of a proof of concept then I made the other 2 out of stainless for no real reason other than I can I guess.

Brilliant work!

#4212 53 days ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Very nice metal work. I’m sure you’ll have customers if you decide to start selling these.

It started off simply because I was missing a couple pieces on 1 of the mechs I have and I program and run lasers at work so it snowballed from there. I'm not so sure about selling them, unless I can figure out a simple way to make the entire unit consistently I can't imagine it being cost effective. I'm mostly just doing it for the fun of it at the moment.

#4213 53 days ago
Quoted from 20eyes:

unless I can figure out a simple way to make the entire unit consistently I can't imagine it being cost effective.

You would have to make a large quantity for achieve any kind of economy of scale, IMO. It is the curse of small quantities.

Very nice work.

#4214 53 days ago

Is it possible to purchase the top channel part for Stern backglasses? I'm looking for the metal strip that the cabinet locks into to hold it in place. Also, is it the same as what is used for System 80 Gottliebs?

#4215 53 days ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Is it possible to purchase the top channel part for Stern backglasses? I'm looking for the metal strip that the cabinet locks into to hold it in place. Also, is it the same as what is used for System 80 Gottliebs?

Most people just replace the top trim with a plastic one, i do not think you can find a reproduction of the original one nowadays.

#4216 52 days ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Is it possible to purchase the top channel part for Stern backglasses? I'm looking for the metal strip that the cabinet locks into to hold it in place. Also, is it the same as what is used for System 80 Gottliebs?

Quoted from hisokajp:

Most people just replace the top trim with a plastic one, i do not think you can find a reproduction of the original one nowadays.

I'm looking for 3 of them. Why people remove them from a back box is a puzzle to me.

The Stern units do not cross with the ones used in Bally's. Gottlieb sounds like it would be a real long shot.

#4217 52 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Most people just replace the top trim with a plastic one, i do not think you can find a reproduction of the original one nowadays.

How is the glass secured without it? Seems dicey to leave it up to a small groove.
Surprising that no one remade an alternative with all of the other random parts that are produced several times over by various outlets.

#4218 52 days ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

How is the glass secured without it?

It isn't. It is held in by gravity and how it it is "locked" in at the top. It is only a problem if your pin is in public and you don't want your back glass stolen.

Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Seems dicey to leave it up to a small groove.

The glass sits in a groove and is held in place with another groove up top.

#4219 52 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Most people just replace the top trim with a plastic one, i do not think you can find a reproduction of the original one nowadays.

like from a new stern?
I think mine is missing and I just want to make sure its covered up.

https://www.pinballlife.com/backglass-top-trim-for-stern.html

#4220 52 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

like from a new stern?

right, but double check the length though.

#4221 52 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

right, but double check the length though.

by my crappy measurement it should be ~28" wide but nothing else is that wide... new stern is 26".

#4222 52 days ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

How is the glass secured without it? Seems dicey to leave it up to a small groove.
Surprising that no one remade an alternative with all of the other random parts that are produced several times over by various outlets.

I think the Bally SS backglass lock bar will work in the classic Sterns. No trim but it will lock the BG in.

#4223 51 days ago

If the locking tabs aren't on the bar it will never lock in. (Assuming we are talking about the top trim on mpu200 style backglasses). Bally bars have the locking tab on the bar in the game instead, if they happen to be in the same spot it might work but the top of the head molding might not have space for a moving tab.

#4224 51 days ago

So I’m in the middle of my Quicksilver scratch build & im having some general classic stern questions as I go. I figured this is the best place to ask.

For those that have restored the coin doors, which spray paint is frequently used to match the grey color & hammer tone finish of the original game? I assume some Rustoleum product.

I just want my legs & door to look as close to original as possible. I’ve never used the hammer tone paints before. I assume you have to prime first?

Thanks!

#4225 51 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

So I’m in the middle of my Quicksilver scratch build & im having some general classic stern questions as I go. I figured this is the best place to ask.
For those that have restored the coin doors, which spray paint is frequently used to match the grey color & hammer tone finish of the original game? I assume some Rustoleum product.
I just want my legs & door to look as close to original as possible. I’ve never used the hammer tone paints before. I assume you have to prime first?
Thanks!

I used both those mixed together to give a nice blue tone to the silver, together in one coat, 2 coats total. I only sanded my original door down and spray on top of the paint that was left. Since you are on bare metal I would assume a good etching metal primer would be good.

Rust-Oleum 7213830 Spray Paint, Each, Silver
Rust-Oleum, Light Blue, 7212830 Hammered Metal Finish Spray, 12-Ounce

#4226 51 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

by my crappy measurement it should be ~28" wide but nothing else is that wide... new stern is 26".

right maybe more something like this then:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=M-1624-4
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-7578-2
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-7243-13

make sure of the thickness though, you may need the 1/8" version.

#4227 51 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

So I’m in the middle of my Quicksilver scratch build & im having some general classic stern questions as I go. I figured this is the best place to ask.
For those that have restored the coin doors, which spray paint is frequently used to match the grey color & hammer tone finish of the original game? I assume some Rustoleum product.
I just want my legs & door to look as close to original as possible. I’ve never used the hammer tone paints before. I assume you have to prime first?
Thanks!

IMG_4677 (resized).jpgIMG_4678 (resized).jpg
#4228 51 days ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Now that’s a glorious stretch of games, wow!

#4229 51 days ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

[quoted image][quoted image]

black leg on SG?

#4230 51 days ago

HA! No reason really.

#4231 50 days ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Want a new friend?

#4232 50 days ago

I ended up picking up this paint/primer stuff, they were out of the other kind. I’ll have to test it out first. Just not sure if it requires a final clearcoat.

Someone recommended this JB weld to fill in some of the door scratches.

22F26A21-733C-4DD7-8EFF-E4A3C635E28B (resized).jpegE08C4C93-EAF1-492E-AB43-50BA031CC6D3 (resized).jpeg
#4233 45 days ago

As I am replacing my boards with allteck and nvram weebly reproductions, what are you guys doing with all of your old MPU boards? I'm assembling a large collection. Not sure what to do with them.

#4234 45 days ago

Keep as spares or sell. I'm always running through project games though that need an mpu so I'll have a ready stash of them. I can't get by the "I don't want to put an mpu200 in a bally game" syndrome from years ago though, when mpu200's were scarcer. I seem to need more -17 and -35 bally boards vs. the mpu200 (probably because I keep the mpu200 games.....)

I'm still buying -35 style boards as well, but with the pricing on the weebly being so good, I no longer am willing to spend anywhere near as much $$$ for them. It used to be a booting -35 was an easy $100 sale but for $50 more to get a brand new board with no alkaline damage..... my limit is probably $50 on those now.

#4235 45 days ago

Most of these have some work that is needed, not battery damage, but most likely caps or chip sockets that need replacing. I just don't have the time for board repair, but not sure they are worth sending out for repair when I can buy a new one for 160.

#4236 45 days ago

Does anyone know a good paint match for Freefall's pinkish cabinet paint?

#4237 45 days ago
Quoted from Methos:

As I am replacing my boards with allteck and nvram weebly reproductions, what are you guys doing with all of your old MPU boards? I'm assembling a large collection. Not sure what to do with them.

I also have a set of boards from my galaxy and displays I was looking to sell, but since galaxy was my first entry into bally/stern games. I dont know what the stock stuff is worth either...

#4238 45 days ago
Quoted from Methos:

As I am replacing my boards with allteck and nvram weebly reproductions, what are you guys doing with all of your old MPU boards? I'm assembling a large collection. Not sure what to do with them.

i usually sale them as a bunch on Pinside "as is", there is always people ready to tinker out there.

#4239 45 days ago

Any opinions about Alltek vs Weebly? I like that Weebly offers free play for Stern code. On the other hand, I like the lifetime guarantee of Alltek. Thoughts?

#4240 45 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Any opinions about Alltek vs Weebly? I like that Weebly offers free play for Stern code. On the other hand, I like the lifetime guarantee of Alltek. Thoughts?

I prefer nvram.weebly over the Alltek. The Alltek runs at a higher clock rate than the nvram.weebly and the stock MPU-200. The high clock rate messes with the sounds. It is really noticeable on games with long background sounds like Nineball. Even the nvram.weebly board I have runs my Nineball a tad faster than the stock MPU-200 but it's much better than the Alltek in my opinion. Also you can run custom roms on the nvram.weebly board.

#4241 44 days ago

Any Hot Hand owners want to trade spinners? I hate to decal over this one since it’s in pretty darn good shape but I don’t need this design. NFS, Stern equivalent trade only.

39454A41-6B45-4F7A-BD4C-C80C647BBF70 (resized).jpegE532CF55-A016-408C-9F48-22BC07162778 (resized).jpeg
#4242 44 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Any Hot Hand owners want to trade spinners? I hate to decal over this one since it’s in pretty darn good shape but I don’t need this design. NFS, Stern equivalent trade only.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I have three of those Hot Hand spinners. I would not hesitate to decal one of them over.

#4243 44 days ago
Quoted from kickabit:

I prefer nvram.weebly over the Alltek. The Alltek runs at a higher clock rate than the nvram.weebly and the stock MPU-200. The high clock rate messes with the sounds. It is really noticeable on games with long background sounds like Nineball. Even the nvram.weebly board I have runs my Nineball a tad faster than the stock MPU-200 but it's much better than the Alltek in my opinion. Also you can run custom roms on the nvram.weebly board.

Thanks, that’s the sort of insight I’m looking for. It seems to me like they’re both good products. I’m still interested to hear if anyone else has pro/con type comparisons between the two. I figure each probably has advantages/disadvantages compared to the other. I don’t have any experience with either, but since I’m looking at buying a full set (mpu, solenoid and light boards), I’d like as much input as I can gather before committing.

#4244 44 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Thanks, that’s the sort of insight I’m looking for. It seems to me like they’re both good products. I’m still interested to hear if anyone else has pro/con type comparisons between the two. I figure each probably has advantages/disadvantages compared to the other. I don’t have any experience with either, but since I’m looking at buying a full set (mpu, solenoid and light boards), I’d like as much input as I can gather before committing.

As mentioned, the Alltek boards have lifetime wty. But the Alltek MPU is a frozen board while Weebly lets you swap ROMS. It's a tough decision. But the Alltek lamp boards are a no-brainer, AFASIAC; I tried those plugin things and yes, they work, but that Alltek lamp board is. the greatest.

#4245 44 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

As mentioned, the Alltek boards have lifetime wty. But the Alltek MPU is a frozen board while Weebly lets you swap ROMS. It's a tough decision. But the Alltek lamp boards are a no-brainer, AFASIAC; I tried those plugin things and yes, they work, but that Alltek lamp board is. the greatest.

I agree admit the plug in flicker reducers. They work, but they’re not perfect. Does anyone have experience with or have any reason to think that the weebly light board would perform differently from the Alltek?

#4246 44 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

I agree admit the plug in flicker reducers. They work, but they’re not perfect. Does anyone have experience with or have any reason to think that the weebly light board would perform differently from the Alltek?

I did not know Weebly had a light board.

#4247 44 days ago

I’ve had good luck with Alltek boards except for their MPU on M-200 games. For instance, in Freefall, it affected the sound and the lights strobed a bit with the sound. I think the clock speed is different like others have mentioned.

#4249 44 days ago

How has the assembled product worked out for you? Are you using any leds in your game? If so, is there any flicker or other issues that you notice?

#4250 44 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

How has the assembled product worked out for you? Are you using any leds in your game? If so, is there any flicker or other issues that you notice?

I just installed the board after a F2K playfield swap.

Using Comet retro LEDs there are two controlled lamp bulbs that have some flicker. Haven’t yet tried to change those bulbs to see if that solved the issue.

After 3 years bare board has risen to $25, but still a good deal.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 24.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
There are 4493 posts in this topic. You are on page 85 of 90.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside