Interesting idea, do you have any other mpu200 have to swap the transformer and rectifier assembly for a test?

It has taken a little while but I finally completed the conversion of making a Nine Ball cabinet into a Quicksilver cabinet. I have several winter projects; This soon to be a Quicksilver will fall in line with those other projects.

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Look’n good!!

Thank you. What I can tell is that painting silver is tough. It is is almost worse than shooting black.

silver is horrible! :S

Man, BG Resto has really filled out his inventory of Classic Stern back glasses.

http://bgresto.com
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I wish he would make a repro of Chicago Coin Stampede. I would really like to have one of these hanging on a wall.

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Hello all, I was wondering if anyone had some pics of the back box on a Nugent. Specifically the routing of the wires in the upper left hand corner. I had taken some pictures before I had taken the boards out to be serviced, but I can’t retrieve them from my photos. I’m looking for the two connectors that go from one board to the other. Thanks, Joe

I thought I would share some pictures of the drop target mechs I have been scratch building in my spare time for some projects I am working on. I still have a few kinks to work out and a couple more parts to figure out how to make yet like the "lift mechanism" but I finally have a 3 and a 4 bank "shell" that doesn't look shitty compared to earlier test parts. The first one I made out of steel sort of a proof of concept then I made the other 2 out of stainless for no real reason other than I can I guess.

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I wish he would make a repro of Chicago Coin Stampede. I would really like to have one of these hanging on a wall.
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I'd like both of them.

Very nice metal work. I’m sure you’ll have customers if you decide to start selling these.

Brilliant work!

It started off simply because I was missing a couple pieces on 1 of the mechs I have and I program and run lasers at work so it snowballed from there. I'm not so sure about selling them, unless I can figure out a simple way to make the entire unit consistently I can't imagine it being cost effective. I'm mostly just doing it for the fun of it at the moment.

You would have to make a large quantity for achieve any kind of economy of scale, IMO. It is the curse of small quantities.

Very nice work.

Is it possible to purchase the top channel part for Stern backglasses? I'm looking for the metal strip that the cabinet locks into to hold it in place. Also, is it the same as what is used for System 80 Gottliebs?

Most people just replace the top trim with a plastic one, i do not think you can find a reproduction of the original one nowadays.

I'm looking for 3 of them. Why people remove them from a back box is a puzzle to me.

The Stern units do not cross with the ones used in Bally's. Gottlieb sounds like it would be a real long shot.

How is the glass secured without it? Seems dicey to leave it up to a small groove.
Surprising that no one remade an alternative with all of the other random parts that are produced several times over by various outlets.

It isn't. It is held in by gravity and how it it is "locked" in at the top. It is only a problem if your pin is in public and you don't want your back glass stolen.

The glass sits in a groove and is held in place with another groove up top.

like from a new stern?
I think mine is missing and I just want to make sure its covered up.

https://www.pinballlife.com/backglass-top-trim-for-stern.html

right, but double check the length though.

by my crappy measurement it should be ~28" wide but nothing else is that wide... new stern is 26".

I think the Bally SS backglass lock bar will work in the classic Sterns. No trim but it will lock the BG in.

If the locking tabs aren't on the bar it will never lock in. (Assuming we are talking about the top trim on mpu200 style backglasses). Bally bars have the locking tab on the bar in the game instead, if they happen to be in the same spot it might work but the top of the head molding might not have space for a moving tab.

So I’m in the middle of my Quicksilver scratch build & im having some general classic stern questions as I go. I figured this is the best place to ask.

For those that have restored the coin doors, which spray paint is frequently used to match the grey color & hammer tone finish of the original game? I assume some Rustoleum product.

I just want my legs & door to look as close to original as possible. I’ve never used the hammer tone paints before. I assume you have to prime first?

Thanks!

I used both those mixed together to give a nice blue tone to the silver, together in one coat, 2 coats total. I only sanded my original door down and spray on top of the paint that was left. Since you are on bare metal I would assume a good etching metal primer would be good.

Rust-Oleum 7213830 Spray Paint, Each, Silver
Rust-Oleum, Light Blue, 7212830 Hammered Metal Finish Spray, 12-Ounce

right maybe more something like this then:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=M-1624-4
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-7578-2
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-7243-13

make sure of the thickness though, you may need the 1/8" version.

Now that’s a glorious stretch of games, wow!

black leg on SG?

HA! No reason really.

Want a new friend?

I ended up picking up this paint/primer stuff, they were out of the other kind. I’ll have to test it out first. Just not sure if it requires a final clearcoat.

Someone recommended this JB weld to fill in some of the door scratches.

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As I am replacing my boards with allteck and nvram weebly reproductions, what are you guys doing with all of your old MPU boards? I'm assembling a large collection. Not sure what to do with them.

Keep as spares or sell. I'm always running through project games though that need an mpu so I'll have a ready stash of them. I can't get by the "I don't want to put an mpu200 in a bally game" syndrome from years ago though, when mpu200's were scarcer. I seem to need more -17 and -35 bally boards vs. the mpu200 (probably because I keep the mpu200 games.....)

I'm still buying -35 style boards as well, but with the pricing on the weebly being so good, I no longer am willing to spend anywhere near as much $$$ for them. It used to be a booting -35 was an easy $100 sale but for $50 more to get a brand new board with no alkaline damage..... my limit is probably $50 on those now.

Most of these have some work that is needed, not battery damage, but most likely caps or chip sockets that need replacing. I just don't have the time for board repair, but not sure they are worth sending out for repair when I can buy a new one for 160.

Does anyone know a good paint match for Freefall's pinkish cabinet paint?

I also have a set of boards from my galaxy and displays I was looking to sell, but since galaxy was my first entry into bally/stern games. I dont know what the stock stuff is worth either...

i usually sale them as a bunch on Pinside "as is", there is always people ready to tinker out there.

Any opinions about Alltek vs Weebly? I like that Weebly offers free play for Stern code. On the other hand, I like the lifetime guarantee of Alltek. Thoughts?

I prefer nvram.weebly over the Alltek. The Alltek runs at a higher clock rate than the nvram.weebly and the stock MPU-200. The high clock rate messes with the sounds. It is really noticeable on games with long background sounds like Nineball. Even the nvram.weebly board I have runs my Nineball a tad faster than the stock MPU-200 but it's much better than the Alltek in my opinion. Also you can run custom roms on the nvram.weebly board.

Any Hot Hand owners want to trade spinners? I hate to decal over this one since it’s in pretty darn good shape but I don’t need this design. NFS, Stern equivalent trade only.

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I have three of those Hot Hand spinners. I would not hesitate to decal one of them over.

Thanks, that’s the sort of insight I’m looking for. It seems to me like they’re both good products. I’m still interested to hear if anyone else has pro/con type comparisons between the two. I figure each probably has advantages/disadvantages compared to the other. I don’t have any experience with either, but since I’m looking at buying a full set (mpu, solenoid and light boards), I’d like as much input as I can gather before committing.

As mentioned, the Alltek boards have lifetime wty. But the Alltek MPU is a frozen board while Weebly lets you swap ROMS. It's a tough decision. But the Alltek lamp boards are a no-brainer, AFASIAC; I tried those plugin things and yes, they work, but that Alltek lamp board is. the greatest.

I agree admit the plug in flicker reducers. They work, but they’re not perfect. Does anyone have experience with or have any reason to think that the weebly light board would perform differently from the Alltek?

I did not know Weebly had a light board.

I’ve had good luck with Alltek boards except for their MPU on M-200 games. For instance, in Freefall, it affected the sound and the lights strobed a bit with the sound. I think the clock speed is different like others have mentioned.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-repro-bally-stern-lamp-driver-board-with-led-support#post-3770611

Available as a great do it yourself project

How has the assembled product worked out for you? Are you using any leds in your game? If so, is there any flicker or other issues that you notice?

I just installed the board after a F2K playfield swap.

Using Comet retro LEDs there are two controlled lamp bulbs that have some flicker. Haven’t yet tried to change those bulbs to see if that solved the issue.

After 3 years bare board has risen to $25, but still a good deal.