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(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,224 posts
  • 267 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by HoakyPoaky
  • Topic is favorited by 144 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 4224 posts in this topic. You are on page 85 of 85.
#4201 3 days ago
Quoted from GoldenOreos:

I've had problems with new rottendog rectifier boards before. idk man seems weird. maybe swap with stars and see what happens.

Interesting idea, do you have any other mpu200 have to swap the transformer and rectifier assembly for a test?

#4202 2 days ago

It has taken a little while but I finally completed the conversion of making a Nine Ball cabinet into a Quicksilver cabinet. I have several winter projects; This soon to be a Quicksilver will fall in line with those other projects.

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#4203 2 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It has taken a little while but I finally completed the conversion of making a Nine Ball cabinet into a Quicksilver cabinet. I have several winter projects; This soon to be a Quicksilver will fall in line with those other projects.
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[quoted image]

Look’n good!!

#4204 2 days ago

Thank you. What I can tell is that painting silver is tough. It is is almost worse than shooting black.

#4205 2 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Thank you. What I can tell is that painting silver is tough. It is is almost worse that shooting black.

silver is horrible! :S

#4206 2 days ago

Man, BG Resto has really filled out his inventory of Classic Stern back glasses.

http://bgresto.com
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I wish he would make a repro of Chicago Coin Stampede. I would really like to have one of these hanging on a wall.

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#4207 1 day ago

Hello all, I was wondering if anyone had some pics of the back box on a Nugent. Specifically the routing of the wires in the upper left hand corner. I had taken some pictures before I had taken the boards out to be serviced, but I can’t retrieve them from my photos. I’m looking for the two connectors that go from one board to the other. Thanks, Joe

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#4208 1 day ago

I thought I would share some pictures of the drop target mechs I have been scratch building in my spare time for some projects I am working on. I still have a few kinks to work out and a couple more parts to figure out how to make yet like the "lift mechanism" but I finally have a 3 and a 4 bank "shell" that doesn't look shitty compared to earlier test parts. The first one I made out of steel sort of a proof of concept then I made the other 2 out of stainless for no real reason other than I can I guess.

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#4209 1 day ago

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I wish he would make a repro of Chicago Coin Stampede. I would really like to have one of these hanging on a wall.
[quoted image]

I'd like both of them.

#4210 1 day ago
Quoted from 20eyes:

I thought I would share some pictures of the drop target mechs I have been scratch building in my spare time for some projects I am working on. I still have a few kinks to work out and a couple more parts to figure out how to make yet like the "lift mechanism" but I finally have a 3 and a 4 bank "shell" that doesn't look shitty compared to earlier test parts. The first one I made out of steel sort of a proof of concept then I made the other 2 out of stainless for no real reason other than I can I guess.

Very nice metal work. I’m sure you’ll have customers if you decide to start selling these.

#4211 1 day ago
Quoted from 20eyes:

I thought I would share some pictures of the drop target mechs I have been scratch building in my spare time for some projects I am working on. I still have a few kinks to work out and a couple more parts to figure out how to make yet like the "lift mechanism" but I finally have a 3 and a 4 bank "shell" that doesn't look shitty compared to earlier test parts. The first one I made out of steel sort of a proof of concept then I made the other 2 out of stainless for no real reason other than I can I guess.

Brilliant work!

#4212 1 day ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Very nice metal work. I’m sure you’ll have customers if you decide to start selling these.

It started off simply because I was missing a couple pieces on 1 of the mechs I have and I program and run lasers at work so it snowballed from there. I'm not so sure about selling them, unless I can figure out a simple way to make the entire unit consistently I can't imagine it being cost effective. I'm mostly just doing it for the fun of it at the moment.

#4213 1 day ago
Quoted from 20eyes:

unless I can figure out a simple way to make the entire unit consistently I can't imagine it being cost effective.

You would have to make a large quantity for achieve any kind of economy of scale, IMO. It is the curse of small quantities.

Very nice work.

#4214 1 day ago

Is it possible to purchase the top channel part for Stern backglasses? I'm looking for the metal strip that the cabinet locks into to hold it in place. Also, is it the same as what is used for System 80 Gottliebs?

#4215 1 day ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Is it possible to purchase the top channel part for Stern backglasses? I'm looking for the metal strip that the cabinet locks into to hold it in place. Also, is it the same as what is used for System 80 Gottliebs?

Most people just replace the top trim with a plastic one, i do not think you can find a reproduction of the original one nowadays.

#4216 1 day ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Is it possible to purchase the top channel part for Stern backglasses? I'm looking for the metal strip that the cabinet locks into to hold it in place. Also, is it the same as what is used for System 80 Gottliebs?

Quoted from hisokajp:

Most people just replace the top trim with a plastic one, i do not think you can find a reproduction of the original one nowadays.

I'm looking for 3 of them. Why people remove them from a back box is a puzzle to me.

The Stern units do not cross with the ones used in Bally's. Gottlieb sounds like it would be a real long shot.

#4217 1 day ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Most people just replace the top trim with a plastic one, i do not think you can find a reproduction of the original one nowadays.

How is the glass secured without it? Seems dicey to leave it up to a small groove.
Surprising that no one remade an alternative with all of the other random parts that are produced several times over by various outlets.

#4218 1 day ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

How is the glass secured without it?

It isn't. It is held in by gravity and how it it is "locked" in at the top. It is only a problem if your pin is in public and you don't want your back glass stolen.

Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Seems dicey to leave it up to a small groove.

The glass sits in a groove and is held in place with another groove up top.

#4219 1 day ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Most people just replace the top trim with a plastic one, i do not think you can find a reproduction of the original one nowadays.

like from a new stern?
I think mine is missing and I just want to make sure its covered up.

https://www.pinballlife.com/backglass-top-trim-for-stern.html

#4220 13 hours ago
Quoted from northvibe:

like from a new stern?

right, but double check the length though.

#4221 5 hours ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

right, but double check the length though.

by my crappy measurement it should be ~28" wide but nothing else is that wide... new stern is 26".

#4222 4 hours ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

How is the glass secured without it? Seems dicey to leave it up to a small groove.
Surprising that no one remade an alternative with all of the other random parts that are produced several times over by various outlets.

I think the Bally SS backglass lock bar will work in the classic Sterns. No trim but it will lock the BG in.

#4223 4 hours ago

If the locking tabs aren't on the bar it will never lock in. (Assuming we are talking about the top trim on mpu200 style backglasses). Bally bars have the locking tab on the bar in the game instead, if they happen to be in the same spot it might work but the top of the head molding might not have space for a moving tab.

#4224 2 hours ago

So I’m in the middle of my Quicksilver scratch build & im having some general classic stern questions as I go. I figured this is the best place to ask.

For those that have restored the coin doors, which spray paint is frequently used to match the grey color & hammer tone finish of the original game? I assume some Rustoleum product.

I just want my legs & door to look as close to original as possible. I’ve never used the hammer tone paints before. I assume you have to prime first?

Thanks!

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There are 4224 posts in this topic. You are on page 85 of 85.

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