Anyone want the stock speaker?
Otherwise I’ll throw it away

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No it's a bank that the game can reset the bank and then it can drop any of the targets via a coil.

Maybe someone that used Galaxy four bank drop for quicksilver build will get you for of the memory coils.

Hot Hand is NOT a memory bank drop assembly.

I was not aware that Cheetah had a memory bank target. Bummer, because now I need one too.

The programmable coils are part number. C1-34-3400. There are 7 of them on Nine Ball and 4 of them on Cheetah. Pinball Resourse stocks them for $10.00 each.

It looks I will need to build one from one of the 5-banks I have in my stash. I am trying to remember everything from inside my Nine Ball drop assembly. There is a special bracket that is used with each coil. The kind of stuff Kerry at Mantis builds. Beyond this special bracket, the wiring inside is going to have to be figured out with Stern's crappy drawings.

All I can tell you, bluespin, is at least buy a 5-bank target in case you have to go the build route.

I would imagine Cheetah 5-place drop targets are as scarce as Cheetah pins.

I am in process of having my Cheetah play field restored as I speak. I am committed to finding a solution. I hate "no choice" options.

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My Dracula I restored for my wife.

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Stern Disco is a fun EM to play after a fast paced game of BKSOR. Need a game to play for a cool down lol

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You checked your Trident and that 5 bank will work?

If anyone wants a 6 bank memory from a Meteor that maybe they can cut down let me know and I will PM the overseas contact...if he still has it at $165

If there's only 4 (I recall now that the software doesn't ever have to 'drop' #5.... so there's not one there) all those people that used the galaxy 4 bank in quicksilver builds have the part of the mech needed.... although the non-installed coil one might be an issue since the reset is part of the memory coil instead of the single ledge bar, and you'd have to get them the bar.

You could rob that stuff off any memory bank though I'd think, except the orbitor 1 ones, as those use a different method to drop the targets (piece of bakelite comes forward to do so).

Here is the part/assembly that is needed to convert a standard drop bank into a memory bank. This is from a F2K which has the same frame as Nine Ball. Without proper tools this will be a difficult assembly to build. Nor would it be an easy one to modify.

Both ends of this frame are bent at 90 degrees and are attached to the ends of the assembly with two screws on each side. Since Cheetah is 5-bank the cross brace on this frame could be removed and the frame shortened. With difficulty.

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Plus, you have these coil carriers that will take all kinds of work if you want to try and make some.

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Plus there are these little nubs that have been pressed into the metal. They are alignment "pins" so the coil assembly remains aligned 100% at 100% of the time.

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The best shot is to mod a Meteor drop assembly. Since it is for only 6 drops it does not have the cross brace as the F2K has. This coil mounting plate could be cut down one size from 6 to 5 and could be spliced together easy enough but you are talking close tolerance work with no room for error; If those coils are mis-located even .010" they are not going to work. So, same as cutting a F2K for downsizing; It can be done---with difficulty.

To see and think on how Stern designed these memory drops is some amazing engineering, IMO.

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The genius move was the flipping of the normal EM nub to the other side and using it as a ledge to hold the drop up. Only maker AFAIK that pulls the drop ledge to drop instead of hitting it with something else.

Could some of the spring loaded relays on an EM machine be modded to make the coil carriers on the Sterns?

So a normal 5-bank will have one coil on the side of the bank, and a memory 5-bank will have five separate coils, one per drop?

First, all drop assemblys have a large coil on the side to raise the targets. These are the large blue B24-1400 coils.

Regarding the C1-34-3400 memory coils: Each "active" drop target will have its own 34-3400 coil.

Meteor has 6. The B/P calls for 6

Galaxy has 4 ( so I am told) . B/P calls for 4.

NB has 8 targets, however, Nine Ball has B/P call out for 7 memory coils only. I have not lifted my NB glass and removed the drop assy. to physically verify.

F2K has 5. I can see and feel them on my F2K assy. However, the F2K B/P does not call out how many of the memory coils are installed. the B/P leaves you guessing.

Cheetah manual calls for 4 memory coils only. I do not know which drop does not get a coil. I don't know how the assembly is wired and would have to study the prints

It has been several years since I bought my populated Cheetah play field. My memory fails me but in hide site, I don't think my Cheetah play field came to me with the 5-bank target assy. I have a 5-place drop assembly and thought I was golden until you brought it to light that Cheetah has a memory drop assy.

Maybe someone with cnc skills can laser cut Stern drop target parts?

F2k uses all 5 memory coils because your dropped targets carry ball to ball (until you start to countdown from 5-4-3-2-1, then they reset and drop up to your progress)

Cheetah can drop 1-2-3-4, and the 5 doesn't have it because if you're dropping the next target in sequence, there's no need to drop 5 since the sequence completes at that time and starts again at 1.

Galaxy has 4 because any of them can be spotted by other targets on the playfield. Trident has 5 because the sequence is center up, other 4 down, 2/4 up, other 3 down, 1-3-5 up, etc.

Added this stern fairly recently. Fast playing game.

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I was wondering what other materials the parts can be made from beside the thick metal sheet that might be easier to work with- delrin, carbon fiber?

Carbon fiber requires special drill bits to work with. But as a material it would be super.

I've got them all in my Tech Charts.
Look on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
They are in both the Stern Electronics section and the Tech Charts section.

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

Noticed on this 16B-8 transformer that the coil voltage tap has another set of wires that do not go to the rectifier board connector. What could also need 49v?

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What are the best options for classic stern legs replacement?
Are classics Bally legs used?
Bally legs are available at PBR & pinball life

Bally.

Although the 16B-8 transformer seems rare and has unknown machine usage, here's the wire info compared to the typical 16B-6.

The 16B-8 has the same dimensions as the 16B-6 except for the girth of the windings is about 3/8" fatter, possibly due to an extra untapped circuit at lugs 12/19.

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Throwing it out there cause I didn't see it confirmed, but I own a Split Second and the 5 bank there is not memory enabled. (Neither is Hot Hand, but Cotton mentioned that already)

Anyone have a Nine ball with a nice playfield that can post some glass off up close pics of the playfield above the flippers to 3/4 up the playfield?

Scans would be even better. Jjsmooth is restoring one and needs help.

Thanks!

I havnt seen a nice 9ball in a long time, ours here has wear all down there. would be nice if it got repro one of these days

If I remember right Ron's Nine ball, from Slam Tilt, is decent in the middle, you could try emailing him for picture, not sure he is much on Pinside

Let me try to get a picture of mine tonight.

Hi all, given myself a project today of repairing a QS display. It appears to fire up, there’s an orange glow in the bottom corner, TP1 (180v) & TP2 (4.6v) appear to be within spec but no segments work. I thought it must be the decoder chip, so I replaced that with what I believe is an equivalent chip (CD4543BE) and no change. I’ve inspected the board, reflowed anything looking remotely suspect and nothing. Problem follows the display when I change it to a different position. Where can I check next? Everything I’ve searched for is for repairs when individual segments are out, not entire display.

That is the correct decoder chip. Could just be a bad glass.

From pinwiki:
5.12.2.2 A single display is blank

If you have one display that is blank, it could be the same problems as mentioned above (lack of 170VDC), something wrong on the circuit board, or something with the glass display itself. If you see any light glowing at all on the display, then the glass is most likely good and your problem is elsewhere.

The main cause of a single display being blank is a bad glass. If the glass is good, then your problem is most likely a bad 4543 decoder IC. The decoder on the display driver board is used to decode the digit data from the MPU into signals that light the proper displays. If the decoder is blown, then this could cause the display to be blank. A quick check with a logic probe will help you decide if the decoder is function properly.

Sometimes the solder joints on the display glass needs are cracked and need to be reflowed. Depending on which solder joints are bad, this could cause the display to be blank.

If you can verify there is 170VDc, and the decoder is working, then it may be just a bad display. If there is some light anywhere, then it's probably good. If not, it may or may not be good. A totally blank display is the hardest thing to fix. If everything looks good, but the display is completely blank, then you may just have to chalk it up as a bad display glass. Unfortunately they can not be repaired.

Thank you LOTR. It’s starting to look that way as I’m running out of ideas. Everything has been reflowed, new decoder chip installed, voltage at TP1 & TP2 both good. Checked C2, R53-58. I haven’t checked any transistors but would assume the problem would be elsewhere.

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If it glows then I think the gas is good.
I would check a crack trace... at the solder pads.

Ok

So I’m about to put galaxy at my parents and there’s no free play but people said to put the replay level super low.... I have alltek boards in but those manuals and the game manuals don’t really go in on how to change the replay? I saw one where you open the coin door and press the test button 6 times, is that it?

alltek boards have a free play dip switch setting?
Read the paperwork.

They do not have a replay setting for Sterns. The Alltek replay works on Bally's only.

Here is how I do it. I set the coin slots to award 14 credits with a push of the button. You can load up to 40 credits on the classic Sterns. And I keep a few quarters in the coin box area. When I run out of credits, I load a coin, add more credits, and keep on rolling.

Broken trace!! Thanks Vec-tor, thanks LOTR!!

Ahhh ok, that was my backup plan, perfect! I’ll do that. Always fun to drop coins in. I did see someone mod a switch to the coin return to credit up and I mode that but not sure I’ll have time to do it

depending on the Stern, you can set replay level at 10k/20k/30k so pretty much creating a "free play"

I made a mod for the switches on a couple of my pins but have been too busy to make some for the rest. I posted about what I did but it did not seem to catch on.

I have seen a couple more mods but could not lead you to them.

Ya, I’m just having a problem finding this change. When I opened the coin door to try and click the test button 6 times nothing happened

The first time you click on the button does the game go in test mode at least??

I added a leaf switch to the coin return push button which works perfectly. No extra external buttons and easily removable if needed.

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Those microswitches all have a small wire that a dropped coin will activate. All you need to do is remove two small screws that attach a protective guard above the wire. Then open the door and push on the wire with your thumb.

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Ok, I did what you guys did and found a way to add one quick n easy. I'll post my pics! Just need to throw some staples on some sockets and test it.

I like putting a push button through the coin return slot, nice and easy to access as well

This is a stern galaxy, not sure if coin doors changed on different games.

So I used a random leaf switch I had, with one screw and nylon lock nut. I have it in the J slot a coin mech would go in, facing down for the coin return to hit. Just put some electrical tape on the back side of the switch and bent it toward the front of the coin door. I put it on the middle dollar one and when I have it set to 14/1 it throws a ton of credits on

Switch with screw and nylock nut
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The J hook part this will sit in
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Test fit
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Done
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Peter I checked your site and of the seven classic Sterns that have a 5-bank drop target assembly, only Cheetah and Trident have memory coils; Cheetah has four and Trident has five.

cottonm4 I'm assuming that converting my Trident five bank from five coils to four should be fairly simple right? It's got to be more than just removing the fifth coil.

Someone could convert a five bank from one of the other five titles to a memory bank, or convert F2K, Nine Ball, Meteor, etc. larger banks to smaller banks, but that would require a lot of work.

Ok separate issue.

My left sling is machine gun shooting.

So when I had the game before it was missing the e clip for the arm. So it would fire but pretty weak. I got a new eclip, and also new plungers for each side sling. So I have a new plunger and spring, new eclip and now it fires nice but keeps firing. Almost seems like the rubber is loose and bouncing the switches open/close over and over.

Anyone have this issue? Should I put a tighter rubber on? The main switch has a diode and the second has a cap. Same as other side.

Edit: just manually held the rubber and activated, the switches seem very flimsy so yes the newly rebuild mech is bouncing the switches open close so it continues to fire. If I push in and pull the rubber out it only fires once per normal.
The stock switches look like normal switches: can I just use stiff/new switches or is there another recommendation

Nice !

I'm thinking you can either remove the 5th coil or not but you need to keep the coil carrier installed. It is the shelf that holds up the target when it is lifted by the reset bar.