New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,017 posts
  • 261 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 minutes ago by dtrimberger
  • Topic is favorited by 138 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,279 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

3060B440-7CE8-406C-8DD0-8D90B202C1D4 (resized).jpeg
CA978690-E848-4069-8270-5555C13078D9 (resized).jpeg
DB40608C-D4FC-42A1-B1E5-D25959E3AC1A (resized).jpeg
IMG_4753 (resized).JPG
IMG_2928 (resized).jpg
IMG_2956 (resized).jpg
IMG_2955 (resized).jpg
received_1576444992539940 (resized).jpeg
879897F7-D5B3-4691-ACD3-EB028B2A8CCF (resized).jpeg
B36A56AF-8CB3-46F9-945A-CAE5E93E6C57 (resized).jpeg
DB367EC4-B311-40A8-A0F6-01AA0A99D5E2 (resized).jpeg
52A90AAB-A40E-4CBB-B9A9-259CE1F36A35 (resized).jpeg
transformer (resized).jpg
Transformer_16B-6(1).png
20201010_135514 (resized).jpg
IMG_4680 (resized).JPG

Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 4017 posts in this topic. You are on page 78 of 81.
#3851 24 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Speaking of switch contacts, anyone have a tip on replacing them on a spinner switch?

Pinball Resource is the only parts store I know of that has small gold plate contacts.
When I rebuild Gottlieb pop switches I can clinch the points using the tip end of a .156 contact clinching tool.

#3852 24 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Doesn't he put them on the switch assemblies he sells though? Must be getting them from somewhere, odd he doesn't sell it separately.
That web link looks promising, depending on pricing.

Yes. His flipper switches have the larger contacts. I don’t know why he does not sell them

#3853 24 days ago

I should’ve mentioned I have lots of contacts and heavy switch blades I’ve bought from Steve, however he’s out of light switch blades for me to make new ones. Anyone have tips of replacing the contacts on old switch blades without damaging the blade in the process of removing the old contacts?

#3854 24 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I should’ve mentioned I have lots of contacts and heavy switch blades I’ve bought from Steve, however he’s out of light switch blades for me to make new ones. Anyone have tips of replacing the contacts on old switch blades without damaging the blade in the process of removing the old contacts?

1A) You need a Dremel Tool with a sanding disc attachment.

1B) You may be able to use one of Dremel Tool's grinding stones to grind the backside of the contact away.

2) Drill a small shallow hole into a piece of wood that is just a little bigger diameter then the head of the contact and just a little deeper than the head of the contact.

3) Place the head of the contact face down in the shallow hole you drilled

3) Using the Dremel Tool sand off the back side of the contact. DO NOT sand into the blade.

4) Set the contact face down into the small hole you drilled.

5) Using an ice pick, or a small drill bit, or a center punch, lightly tap the ground off center of the contact and it should fall from the blade.

And it is out.

#3855 24 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

1A) You need a Dremel Tool with a sanding disc attachment.
1B) You may be able to use one of Dremel Tool's grinding stones to grind the backside of the contact away.
2) Drill a small shallow hole into a piece of wood that is just a little bigger diameter then the head of the contact and just a little deeper than the head of the contact.
3) Place the head of the contact face down in the shallow hole you drilled
3) Using the Dremel Tool sand off the back side of the contact. DO NOT sand into the blade.
4) Set the contact face down into the small hole you drilled.
5) Using an ice pick, or a small drill bit, or a center punch, lightly tap the ground off center of the contact and it should fall from the blade.
And it is out.

I have used tape to hold the blade still and used a jewelers file to file down the back side of the contact...
Remove the contact just as cottonm4 listed.

#3856 24 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Yes. His flipper switches have the larger contacts. I don’t know why he does not sell them

Part # CU-CONTACT is what Steve uses on all of his new EOS switches. They would work fine for cabinet switches too.

http://pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm#common

#3857 24 days ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

Part # CU-CONTACT is what Steve uses on all of his new EOS switches. They would work fine for cabinet switches too.
http://pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm#common

I was looking right at those when I made my order. Don't ask me how I missed them. Other than the obvious "I had my head up my ...", I don't know.

#3858 23 days ago

Looking for some feedback.

When I got my Dragonfist it had 2 little pins in the circled holes that the flipper bats rested on. Same pins as under some of the plastics only shorter.
Is it an old Stern thing to have pins stay in these holes or was that just a hack?

Cheers

IMG_20200923_230314 (1) (resized).jpg

#3859 23 days ago
Quoted from Pingball:

Looking for some feedback.
When I got my Dragonfist it had 2 little pins in the circled holes that the flipper bats rested on. Same pins as under some of the plastics only shorter.
Is it an old Stern thing to have pins stay in these holes or was that just a hack?
Cheers
[quoted image]

Stern playfields has the pins as flipper adjustments. When flippers are in position, you can push
the pins back down into the playfield. It was a neat way to adjust flipper alignment.
Bally/Williams used playfield dimples.
As far as playfield plastics are concerned, if under the plastics
and are about an inch above the playfield then it is used twofold.
[ penny nails ]
1) To hold up odd shaped plastic pieces.
2) To hold rubber rings in odd shapes... avoid lamp sockets, switch functions.
[ steel pins]
1a) As ball deflectors. eg.bottom arch corners.
2a) As ball baffle to key shots. eg kickout hole in a long shot.
3a) As ball deflectors to drain lanes. eg. outlanes Bally Silverball Mania.
4a) As kicker protector/anti ball stuck/ anti top plastic intrusion to slingshot kicker function.
Et cetera.

#3860 23 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Bally/Williams used playfield dimples.

No, they had roll-pins sunk into the wood, in which you would insert a small dowel or toothpick to align the flippers.

#3861 23 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

No, they had roll-pins sunk into the wood, in which you would insert a small dowel or toothpick to align the flippers.

Yes the later models had the roll-pins... the early EM games did not...
Bally playfields would not have the roll-pins tell Williams bought them out.

#3862 23 days ago

I remove the metal pins from my machines, i feel in the long term it marks the flipper bats...

#3863 23 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Yes. His flipper switches have the larger contacts. I don’t know why he does not sell them

He sells the larger contacts. I have bought many from him. Perfect match for 77-87 games.

#3865 23 days ago
Quoted from Pingball:

Looking for some feedback.
When I got my Dragonfist it had 2 little pins in the circled holes that the flipper bats rested on. Same pins as under some of the plastics only shorter.
Is it an old Stern thing to have pins stay in these holes or was that just a hack?
Cheers
[quoted image]

Leave them. Provide stability for the links and paws which are supposed to not be over tightened.

#3866 22 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Yes the later models had the roll-pins... the early EM games did not...
Bally playfields would not have the roll-pins tell Williams bought them out.

Correct, but you said "Bally/Williams", which is current taxonomy for WMS/Midway age games, not EM games..

Quoted from vec-tor:

Bally/Williams used playfield dimples.

So just wanted to make sure noone reading this was working on a 90's game, saw the roll-pins, and decided to remove them or some such.

#3867 22 days ago

My galaxy had small nails but they seemed like they were bridging the gap from plastic inlane to the flipper and just holding the flipper up :/

#3868 22 days ago

Some people take the pins out, some people leave them in...doesn't really matter.

#3869 22 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Some people take the pins out, some people leave them in...doesn't really matter.

I take mine out; I was cutting my fingers up when waxing the play field. But it leaves the problem of how to adjust the flippers and keep them even while your are adjusting, so I made a little clamping and alignment tool so that I can adjust them at any angle that I want. And I am able to adjust them for the same angle on both sides.

This is Catacomb after I had just got done adjusting the flippers, only to lower the play field and see that were not even on both sides. Drat.

2baeb29b012c5529bcff562fc2496bef1d0fd26b (resized).jpg

So made up a couple of clamps so I can adjust the flippers where I want and keep them lined up as I get them locked down.

8ade89ab57dd88743f65ad8c7891ac77d8766850 (resized).jpg

I used some polycarbonate plastic and some wood strips along with a couple of clamps from Harbor Freight. I can adjust them to where they are even and clamp them in place.

b4c3bc90df3a254c9cf433802b22fa4f93f02ff2 (resized).jpg

And then when I lift the play field to tighten up the pivot levers, the flippers stay put. After I get them tightened up, I remove the clamps and remove my adjusters and the flippers are lined up exactly where I wanted them to be.

3b79d259a32309a7e800c035d0365bd8606f5ac2 (resized).jpg

There is also this 3D printed flipper angle adjuster that looks like it could also comer in handy.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1644154

Screen Shot 2020-09-27 at 10.05.40 PM (resized).png

#3870 22 days ago

Seems like a lot of work to me

On my Stars the posts go in from the bottom which is interesting.

#3871 22 days ago

does anyone know where these drop target decals are available from?

drop_target_decals-1 (resized).jpg
#3872 22 days ago
Quoted from illawarra92:

does anyone know where these drop target decals are available from?[quoted image]

tractordoc sells a lot of classic Stern drop target decals, including this set for Stars.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1169-doc-s-pinball-shop/02155-vinyl-star-decals-for-drop-targets-blue-and-red-stars

#3873 22 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Some people take the pins out, some people leave them in...doesn't really matter.

It does matter. The pins are there to keep stability on a flipper hit, link and paw stability. The paw in a classic stern is soft metal. The pins support that. They should be left in. The game play is better with them in as the factory intended.

#3874 22 days ago
Quoted from Classic_Stern:

It does matter. The pins are there to keep stability on a flipper hit, link and paw stability. The paw in a classic stern is soft metal. The pins support that. They should be left in. The game play is better with them in as the factory intended.

I am having a hard time getting my head wrapped around this. I don't understand at all.

When I push the flipper button, the flipper swings up and the plunger slams in to the coil stop. That slamming action, IMO, is going to place as much stress, if not the most, on the flipper link and pawl shaft as the plunger slams to a stop first, leaving the flipper link and pawl pin to "catch up".

IMG_4613 (resized).JPG

The impact points on the upswing are going to be the flipper link at the roll pin and the flipper link at the pawl pin.

IMG_4615 (resized).JPG

When I release the flipper button, the flipper and associated assembly parts are going to fall of their own weight with some spring assistance. And the stopping point is the flipper stop that stops the link when the flipper button is released.

I am not seeing how a flipper adjustment pin placed in the play field is going to be stronger than the impact action from a spring that is returning a flipper to rest position. Other than being a positional flipper place holder, I cannot see an adjustment pin adding any strength to the flipper assembly.

You gotta help me understand.

#3875 22 days ago

Agree to disagree. Not a big deal though

#3876 22 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I am having a had time getting my head wrapped around this. I don't understand at all.
When I push the flipper button, the flipper swings up and the plunger slams in to the coil stop. That slamming action, IMO, is going to place as much stress, if not the most, on the flipper link and pawl shaft as the plunger slams to a stop first, leaving the flipper link and pawl pin to "catch up".
[quoted image]
The impact points on the upswing are going to be the flipper link at the roll pin and the flipper link at the pawl pin.
[quoted image]
When I release the flipper button, the flipper and associated assembly parts are going to fall of their own weight with some spring assistance. And the stopping point is the flipper stop that stops the link when the flipper button is released.
I am not seeing how a flipper adjustment pin placed in the play field is going to be stronger than the impact action from a spring that is returning a flipper to rest position. Other than being a positional flipper place holder, I cannot see an adjustment pin adding any strength to the flipper assembly.
You gotta help me understand.

I'm talking about resting position. Yes in action the pin has no bearing. So as I think maybe from a % of times the flipper paw takes impact it is a small amount in resting position.

#3877 22 days ago

I like to think a dead bounce is also better off a flipper bat resting on the pin.

The pin might also partially act as Sterns version of a Bally/Williams snubber wire..

#3878 22 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

I like to think a dead bounce is also better off a flipper bat resting on the pin.

This is why I leave them in.

#3879 22 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

I like to think a dead bounce is also better off a flipper bat resting on the pin.
The pin might also partially act as Sterns version of a Bally/Williams snubber wire..

That is also why I leave them in.

#3880 22 days ago

Are the pins really at the intended resting position of the flippers? Here I've had my flippers set up without enough angle all this time.

#3881 22 days ago
Quoted from A_Bord:

Are the pins really at the intended resting position of the flippers? Here I've had my flippers set up without enough angle all this time.

Actually, they're not. I've been told more than a few times that the factory used a separate jig for aligning the flippers. The pins/holes were there to hold the jig. Though I've never seen any pictures to support this theory.

I've also been told they were used for some wireforms that held the flippers in place during shipping, and are completely unrelated to flipper alignment. Unfortunately, I doubt there are any NIB classic sterns out there to verify.

The same roll pins are present in Williams machines too, as well as Bally of the same era.

-Hans

#3882 21 days ago

Back in the Stern Electronics club. My pin collection started with Wild Fyre, which I'll always have a soft spot for. I've also owned Pinball (which I was smart enough to sell to a friend, so I still get to play it,) Dracula, Flight 2000, and Magic. Now I'm enjoying playing my latest addition, Galaxy. This looks and feels like a long term keeper. I rolled it third day I had it, but have only broken 200K a couple times since. I love the sounds, and definitely hear Asteroids and Star Castle, perhaps among others. I have wondered about licensing of those sounds, as I recall, Stern only did a couple of vids? (I looked it up, they actually did 28 games, not all released under the Stern name.) Of course, they were notorious for stealing Bally tech. Wonder if they did the same with sound ROMs...

galaxy (resized).jpg

#3883 21 days ago

Big game in PA. Go get it!

AB291652-BA1D-4B09-907E-E6662EC46956 (resized).jpeg
#3884 21 days ago
Quoted from A_Bord:

Are the pins really at the intended resting position of the flippers? Here I've had my flippers set up without enough angle all this time.

Yes. People make the mistake of aligning the flippers to be straight with the flipper return lane guides. It makes the flippers centre of the playfield centric where there's nothing to shoot for. It might be right for DMD games but not for these Sterns.

Quoted from HHaase:

Actually, they're not. I've been told more than a few times that the factory used a separate jig for aligning the flippers. The pins/holes were there to hold the jig. Though I've never seen any pictures to support this theory.

I'd be dubious about that info - how were operators around the world supposed to align the flippers without this special jig when the pins ideally served the purpose?
All the Sterns I remember playing in the early 80's had the flipper bats against the pins.

Quoted from HHaase:

The same roll pins are present in Williams machines too, as well as Bally of the same era.

Bally never used those pins on their early solid state games.

#3885 21 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Bally never used those pins on their early solid state games.

Shoot, you're right on that. With the Bally games people always thought you needed to align the flippers with the biff-bars.

I know there were a lot of variations on those locating holes though. I know there were also manufacturers that had them off the ends of the flippers too.

Definitely one of those things I'd be nice for a designer to chime in on and solve the question with some authority.

-Hans

#3886 21 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes. People make the mistake of aligning the flippers to be straight with the flipper return lane guides. It makes the flippers centre of the playfield centric where there's nothing to shoot for. It might be right for DMD games but not for these Sterns.

This is a mistake I have made. 40 years ago in the arcades and bars all the pins I saw and played had the flippers lined up with the lane guides. Honestly, the flippers just do not look right with the tips drooping down.

#3887 21 days ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Actually, they're not. I've been told more than a few times that the factory used a separate jig for aligning the flippers. The pins/holes were there to hold the jig. Though I've never seen any pictures to support this theory.
I've also been told they were used for some wireforms that held the flippers in place during shipping, and are completely unrelated to flipper alignment. Unfortunately, I doubt there are any NIB classic sterns out there to verify.
The same roll pins are present in Williams machines too, as well as Bally of the same era.
-Hans

I worked for an arcade company between 78-83. I picked up our new games from the distributor and set them up (with other person). We had 5 huge locations. Our classic stern's came with the flipper on the pin. There was no jig. I set up many out of the box: Seawitch, Big Game, Meteor, Galaxy and a few others. I can say without a doubt the pin is where the game plays optimum given the shots on the games. Now it's your game if you have one. Do what you want. Honestly....Its just STERN JUNK

#3888 21 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Honestly, the flippers just do not look right with the tips drooping down.

Heh, well I'm opposite. To me they don't look right when the flippers are straight with the return lanes and they sure don't play as well as factory "droop".

Quoted from cottonm4:

40 years ago in the arcades and bars all the pins I saw and played had the flippers lined up with the lane guides

I think Williams from that era aligned their flippers to be straight with the return lane guides. Been too long since I've been near one, maybe someone else can comment.

Quoted from HHaase:

I know there were also manufacturers that had them off the ends of the flippers too.

That would be Bally
Medusa's a perfect example with the flipper inserts under the flippers:

IMG_0013a.jpg

#3889 21 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

To me they don't look right when the flippers are straight with the return lanes and they sure don't play as well as factory "droop".

Depends on the game. Flipper alignment is one of those things that you can tweak on a game to your individual liking. As long as the shots are in your sweet spot it's all good.

The only classic stern to me that has the droop is stargazer, and it's really intentional on that game as you shouldn't be able to cradle the ball. The rest of them seem ok on the pins.

#3890 20 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Depends on the game. Flipper alignment is one of those things that you can tweak on a game to your individual liking. As long as the shots are in your sweet spot it's all good.
The only classic stern to me that has the droop is stargazer, and it's really intentional on that game as you shouldn't be able to cradle the ball. The rest of them seem ok on the pins.

Viper has a lot of droop too and it’s needed. If you don’t have droop when I designer intended you get really hard shots on the end of the flippers that shouldn’t be or way too weak. Only stern I think needs droop added that isn’t very prevelant from the factory is nugent. The flipper angles are all off on that game. 75% of the shots off a flipper just hit the pops up the middle. . The spinner shot is way off the very tip of the flipper and it barely has enough power to make it to top lanes.

#3891 19 days ago
Quoted from Classic_Stern:

I worked for an arcade company between 78-83. I picked up our new games from the distributor and set them up (with other person). We had 5 huge locations. Our classic stern's came with the flipper on the pin. There was no jig. I set up many out of the box: Seawitch, Big Game, Meteor, Galaxy and a few others. I can say without a doubt the pin is where the game plays optimum given the shots on the games. Now it's your game if you have one. Do what you want. Honestly....Its just STERN JUNK

What was it like opening these up as NIBs? Pretty much the same it is today?

#3892 19 days ago

So I finally got the guts to hook up the Star Gazer I have been building and we have..... some success.... and some failures.

Game powers on, doesn't catch fire or blow fuses even. Going into tests all lights, displays, and coils seem to work fine. Then I start a game and I quickly realize we have all sorts of switch issues so time for some trouble shooting.

If anyone else out there has done the whole build your game using Shawn's wire harness, or just has some really good detailed pictures of how all of your switches are wired up on Star Gazer I would really appreciate some help, please and thank you! -Tommy
Star Gazer 1 (resized).jpgStar Gazer 2 (resized).jpgStar Gazer 3 (resized).jpg

#3893 19 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

I quickly realize we have all sorts of switch issues so time for some trouble shooting.

You are going to have to divide and conquer. I am still in the process in my build. The lights wired and the switches are wired. I have not done the coils yet. I found Shawn's instructions easy to follow; Maybe I can help. Maybe I can't.

The switches are all governed by the white wires with the red, blue, black, green stripes, etc. You need to isolate if the reluctant switches are on the white/red wire line or the white/blue line, etc.

What kind of problems are you having?

#3894 19 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You are going to have to divide and conquer. I am still in the process in my build. The lights wired and the switches are wired. I have not done the coils yet. I found Shawn's instructions easy to follow; Maybe I can help. Maybe I can't.
The switches are all governed by the white wires with the red, blue, black, green stripes, etc. You need to isolate if the reluctant switches are on the white/red wire line or the white/blue line, etc.
What kind of problems are you having?

Game boots. If I press start button game starts, but immediately a credit is added (so coin switch is registering), trough kicks ball to shooter lane and points just start scrolling up.

If I go into test mode all lights work, displays work as they should, and coils fire as they should. If I press the button to go over to lowest switch registering, 10 is registering...but when I check the switch physically it looks correct according to schematic and Shawn's instructions and is in fact not touching. If I press switches below 10 like the start button or the tilt bob they register. Also when I lift the playfield to inspect it my spinners register correctly as switches 4/5/9. I will need to investigate closer to see if all of the switches under 10 register or not. It was around 1 AM when I finally got the whole thing together and trouble shot until about 2AM before calling it quits.

I did convert a Stern Pinball for this project, but I completely rewired the coin door. I suspected that was what I messed up, but then I tried another Stern coin door, this one from a Big Game, and had the same issues. At that point I called it a night.

pasted_image (resized).png
#3895 19 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

So I finally got the guts to hook up the Star Gazer I have been building and we have..... some success.... and some failures.
Game powers on, doesn't catch fire or blow fuses even. Going into tests all lights, displays, and coils seem to work fine. Then I start a game and I quickly realize we have all sorts of switch issues so time for some trouble shooting.
If anyone else out there has done the whole build your game using Shawn's wire harness, or just has some really good detailed pictures of how all of your switches are wired up on Star Gazer I would really appreciate some help, please and thank you! -Tommy
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I used Shawn's harness to wire up my playfield. I'm not using the cabinet or backbox harness yet, but I've tested my playfield in a Stern cab and everything is working. I can take pictures. Let me know what you need.

#3896 18 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Game boots. If I press start button game starts, but immediately a credit is added (so coin switch is registering), trough kicks ball to shooter lane and points just start scrolling up.
If I go into test mode all lights work, displays work as they should, and coils fire as they should. If I press the button to go over to lowest switch registering, 10 is registering...but when I check the switch physically it looks correct according to schematic and Shawn's instructions and is in fact not touching. If I press switches below 10 like the start button or the tilt bob they register. Also when I lift the playfield to inspect it my spinners register correctly as switches 4/5/9. I will need to investigate closer to see if all of the switches under 10 register or not. It was around 1 AM when I finally got the whole thing together and trouble shot until about 2AM before calling it quits.
I did convert a Stern Pinball for this project, but I completely rewired the coin door. I suspected that was what I messed up, but then I tried another Stern coin door, this one from a Big Game, and had the same issues. At that point I called it a night. [quoted image]

Check every switch in that row and column as switch 10. Check all the diodes on the switches as well. Make sure nothing is bent or touching. Sounds like a possible switch matrix short. See if you can find another switch in game that does not register perhaps? If we have two malfunctioning switches we know if we can narrow it down to two other switches being the culprit.

#3897 18 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Game boots. If I press start button game starts, but immediately a credit is added (so coin switch is registering), trough kicks ball to shooter lane and points just start scrolling up.

That sounds like a diode gone bad. What happens if you swat the play field with your hand? Does that stop the points from rolling on up?

Electronics troubleshooting is not my strong suit. I think I would go to the connector for the switch wires at A4-J2 and remove one wire, say the white wire with red stripe and remove it from the connector and fire up the pin and see if the scoring problem goes away. If not, replace the w/r wire and pull the white /blu wire and do another check. And then keep doing that for all of the switch wires on A4-J2, including the Y/R out hole wire.

Hopefully, pulling one of these wires will eliminate your erratic scoring problem and help you isolate where you need to look.

#3898 18 days ago

I have a general where to start diagnostic question. My machine won’t boot and I’m a bit confused.

Today I replaced the two capacitors on the solenoid driver board.

The machine booted and I went directly into a solenoid test. I recall that once it got to the the drop target reset coil the mpu locked up.

I turned the machine off and when I turned it back on I get a solid led.

The battery has been replaced on the original mpu. The solenoid driver board is from a Bally machine.

I’ve read a bit on the mpu flashes described on the pinwiki. Any suggestions on what might be the (not so) obvious problem? My sdb connections all look correct and the work is pretty good on the two capacitors.
B72564AF-B363-4224-BE61-605E881E5A91 (resized).jpeg

#3899 18 days ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Check every switch in that row and column as switch 10. Check all the diodes on the switches as well. Make sure nothing is bent or touching. Sounds like a possible switch matrix short. See if you can find another switch in game that does not register perhaps? If we have two malfunctioning switches we know if we can narrow it down to two other switches being the culprit.

If I start a game several are registering incorrectly but I can’t tell what they are registering as. In test I can’t test anything above switch 10 because of how stern diagnostics work. I’ll test hitting the playfield but I do suspect a short somewhere sadly.

#3900 17 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

If I start a game several are registering incorrectly but I can’t tell what they are registering as. In test I can’t test anything above switch 10 because of how stern diagnostics work. I’ll test hitting the playfield but I do suspect a short somewhere sadly.

If you disconnect switch 10 it’s still registering correct? Are the switches provided with the wiring harness or did you have to supply and install them yourself?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 22.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
There are 4017 posts in this topic. You are on page 78 of 81.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside