Wasn't someone going to quantify exact what made the -6 better than the -3?

How do you test a transformer for max load or capacity anyway??

I don't see why you could not do that. But now you will have a Nine Ball with a Seawitch back glass.

did they place the displays in different locations for each game? it is like pin2k or p3, just swap some things around and have a new game without having to have multiple cabinets

Yes. And Catacomb is a completely different animal.

Ah, then unless you just dealt with the backglass, or left the locations but created new translite to keep the art...seems like a cool idea but some work. I would still think having a few pf's would be a nice swap over to try something different, but also understand the issues there.

Looking to replace my screw/posts/studs.
I went to the HW store and found the #6 1-1/2" (first one in pic on left) But wanted to verify the other two.....
The middle screw looks like a round/pan head wood screw but 1-5/8" (can't find)
and the far right is the wood screw post that looks like a bally part but out of stock, so it could either go with the DE version or the gottlieb one? thoughts?

IMG_9680 (resized).jpg

I just use these for tophat replacement https://www.pinballlife.com/machine-poststud-530-5010-02.html

Can someone please confirm wiring on the line filter? I’m nearly completion of my Quicksilver resto. So far so good, taking pictures of absolutely everything is key... sadly I didn’t take pics of the line filter. And the wiring diagram isn’t helping me.

Brown and blue wires coming from Line Filter, with a black/green and white/yellow loose.

0D8817E8-2856-4975-88A7-EFCC4A304CCC (resized).jpeg

449C0D31-705F-4FD7-9E2B-FE4833C3C34D (resized).jpeg

CF05BD6C-6B7E-45B2-A8CE-4ABA987B4213 (resized).png

Let me know if this helps. From a stern galaxy

D2FA5968-2B3C-4729-833E-634D30F80F30 (resized).jpeg

Edit: looks like from mine, the blue black solder together and the yellow/white go to brown.

The blue -> black makes sense. Is your other wire grey?

I believe the nomenclature is “supposed” to be black (hot) to brown, blue (neutral) to white. But whats really important here is the orientation the line cord wires on the top side of the filter. Meaning if the blue is connected to the black wires in the cabinet harness, then the hot from the line cord needs to be connected to that side. Think black to black. White to white. The brown and blue wires coming off the filter are just bridging the gap so to speak.

I just did this when i replaced the line cord on my seawitch. I read vids guide and was confused as to why my wires were reversed to his. What i found was the wire with the ribbed insulation (which is how you identify which is which since original cords do not have black or white insulation) was connected to the opposite side as his, which meant they had to hook up the blue to the black wires, instead of the white. Someone had posted a comment in his thread with the exact same thing and it was suggested it was wired wrong at the factory (according to the color scheme). But my seawitch and F2K are like that so maybe Stern didnt agree with the standard wire color standards, but they are hooked up correctly regardless lol.

Here is the pic from Vid’s Guide

65C77B04-4993-4034-B7A7-13D4D62BAE68 (resized).jpeg

Might want to get some tape over that blue wire

Can you please share Vid's link? I am having a little trouble locating it. Thanks.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide

Thank you for the detailed response. So in my circumstance it appears a little back to front. I have an input of brown into the filter, output of blue & an input of blue into the filter, output of brown. To keep things neat, I'll re-wire, Blue -> Blue.... & Brown -> Brown. So going by your insights above, I should have

Blue (NEUTRAL) -> FILTER -> Blue -> White/yellow stripe
Brown (HOT) -> FILTER -> Brown -> Black/green stripe

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Make sure the wire that goes to the mains F6 fuse on the rectifier board is the one that's connected to Active (hot) pin on your power point plug.

Were all of the line filters on these classic Sterns rated to 250V for domestic and export?

hahah yeah, I need to. I don't play this game, it is still being worked on. I'll probably unsolder and shrink tube both connections.

On mine, it looks like the ribbed one (hot) is on the right as shown in the pic from Completist

Double check (test which conductor is actually Hot from the line cord) - but I think the ribbed conductor is the neutral. This is where my differed from Vid's pic. I wasn't reusing the line cord since someone cut the ground prong off, so I just made sure the hot was ultimately going to the right spot as Quench mentioned.

I'll have to double check the cord. But I did test continuity from the right side line of the filter to F6, based upon the picture above. But from my pic it looks like the ribbed is on the left, haha. Yes I can see how this gets confusing. I'll have to check the actual plug, then the wires on the filter and can validate.

Stern Ali went for $1,950 + 15% buyer's premium at the Jaybird auction just now!

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And with Bally legs, no less.

Yeah if I list mine it would be $2k but it does have new displays and backglass

Someone really overpaid for that playfield planking and crackling backglass.

anyone has a good source for a replacement speaker POTS?

Getting hard to find now.
You're looking for 25k ohm, 500mW logarithmic (audio taper) potentiometers.
None of the big electronic guys have them anymore.

You could try one of these - probably worth getting a suitable knob for it too:

ebay.com link: Alpha Potentiometer A25K Audio Taper Pot

Confirm with them that you're getting "A25k" pots which are logarithmic, and not "B25k" which are linear. You don't want linear because the volume wont adjust proportionately.

It’s Lloyd’s (from Coinop Warehouse) daughter’s auction service. He’s been heavily marketing the auction so I’m sure there was a ton of traffic directed there. That probably helped...

Thanks for the heads up! After checking several of my go to places and seeing nothing, I ordered a couple of these from the Ebay link.

what would cause very low volume with pot turned all the way up?

Could be a bad pot but not likely. Check the voltages at the sound board. Could need caps replaced.

if you have another machine nearby, definitely try the POTS, not common but that is exactly what the problem was on My 9B.

I looked around at usualy spots, where can a POTS be found for purchase?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/E-599-19

will this one work?

No, that potentiometer is for Ballys.
Clasic Sterns require a different pot. Look 9 posts up at post #3526 and #3527

Wasn't there also "electronic cleaner" spray you could spray on and turn the pot to help clean the contacts? Or am I thinking of something else.

I have heard of people dropping alcohol on it and spinning it back and forth for a bit.

Yes, like woody76 said, you can use alcohol to clean it.
I actually open them up to clean them and also retension the wipers while I'm there.

Ah ok. I'll take mine apart and check it out. Mine current goes from quiet to loud kind of quick.

anyone ever convert a flight 2000 over to big game? I have a fully populated BG playfield and access to a project flight. Just wanting to pick your brain for a second.

https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&biw=1280&bih=963&tbm=shop&ei=w2UoX_icOoW8tgXLp4XACw&q=potentiometer+spray+cleaner&oq=potentiometer+spray+cleaner&gs_lcp=Cgtwcm9kdWN0cy1jYxAMUABYAGCyXmgAcAB4AIABAIgBAJIBAJgBAKoBD3Byb2R1Y3RzLWNjLXdpeg&sclient=products-cc&ved=0ahUKEwi4isXW4v_qAhUFnq0KHctTAbgQ4dUDCAo

Go down and dirty, swap the F2K play field out and the Big Game play field in. Change out the MPU, and you are up and running.

The cab is the same.
The back box is the same.
The cab wiring is the same.
The coin door/wiring is the same.
The transformer should be the same.

Go for it.

The displays are in different locations so he’ll have to make a light board and he might have to lengthen the display wiring harness.

Do they both use the two sound board set up?

yea the credit and ball displays are for sure in different spots. I might could just cut a new light board. I think all the boards are the same.

What I was trying to say is that you can drop the BG play field in, get the MPU with the correct ROMs and play it with the F2K back box still on.

Also, Shawn at Third Coast Pinball makes the displays harness. But F2K and Big game are close enough that you can use the F2K displays harness in behind a Big Game back glass. Actually, you can use a Seawitch or Nine Ball harness in a Big Game; There is enough wire and slop in the wiring that you can do this. Will it look right if you open the back box up. No. But it will work.

I think F2K is speech enabled and uses the VSU-100 speech board,( not to be confused with the SB-300 sound board). Big Game does not have speech so Woody scores a VSU-100 speech board if it is still in the project machine. The VSU-100 uses a couple of jumper cables for hooking up to the lamp board. Disconnect the jumper cables and now you have a regular harness that connects to the LDA.

Perfect, I think I have CRC Electronics cleaner in the garage! I may just take it apart though and see how it is inside too.

Why is that?

No knocker in stock flight but big game can use it.