(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

3 years ago


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  • 6,038 posts
  • 331 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 59 minutes ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 179 Pinsiders

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There are 6,038 posts in this topic. You are on page 61 of 121.
#3001 1 year ago

Friends, I'm looking for (4) w3-a-149 rollovers. Anybody have any? Mitch, dothedoo, cottonm4, too-many-pins, bluespin?

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#3002 1 year ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Friends, I'm looking for (4) w3-a-149 rollovers. Anybody have any? mitch, dothedoo, cottonm4, too-many-pins, bluespin?

I'm sure I do just dont know what that is. Do you have a picture.

I've stripped 6 populated stern playfields.

#3003 1 year ago

Curious if anyone knows the difference between the v1 and v2 classic Stern flipper brackets? While the layout of the screw holes is a bit different, I can't see why there would be any playing difference. The rebuild kits for both v1 and v2 are the same, but the brackets are indeed different. djblouw?

#3004 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

I'm sure I do just dont know what that is. Do you have a picture.
I've stripped 6 populated stern playfields.

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#3005 1 year ago

Ya I have 4 I'm sure. $10 (2.50 each) plus shipping but probably cheaper if you can find in the USA. Shipping will probably be 15 to 20.

If interested send me a PM. I'll be heading out to the post office later today to ship a bunch if other parts.

#3006 1 year ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Curious if anyone knows the difference between the v1 and v2 classic Stern flipper brackets? While the layout of the screw holes is a bit different, I can't see why there would be any playing difference. The rebuild kits for both v1 and v2 are the same, but the brackets are indeed different. djblouw?

One version the bracket is totally flat. The other version, the tabs with the screw holes are offset from the main plate, so that the height is different. This means that the flipper bat shafts are longer for the offset version. Now, which one is V1 and V2 I cannot remember.

#3007 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

One version the bracket is totally flat. The other version, the tabs with the screw holes are offset from the main plate, so that the height is different. This means that the flipper bat shafts are longer for the offset version. Now, which one is V1 and V2 I cannot remember.

Flat is the original 1st version.

#3008 1 year ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Curious if anyone knows the difference between the v1 and v2 classic Stern flipper brackets? While the layout of the screw holes is a bit different, I can't see why there would be any playing difference. The rebuild kits for both v1 and v2 are the same, but the brackets are indeed different. djblouw?

V1 brackets often break at the narrow point. The differences are: the flipper pawl, shorter bushing, lighter weight plunger, fiber link, and shorter shaft metal shoe flipper.

You can use the V2 rebuild kit, but you’ll have to reuse the bushings or buy them separately. I would replace the metal shoe flippers with the one piece molded design.

#3009 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

V1 brackets often break at the narrow point.

Back in the day, I would add extra #8 screws to the sides of the brackets to keep
them from breaking.

#3010 1 year ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Curious if anyone knows the difference between the v1 and v2 classic Stern flipper brackets? While the layout of the screw holes is a bit different, I can't see why there would be any playing difference. The rebuild kits for both v1 and v2 are the same, but the brackets are indeed different. djblouw?

PM sent

#3011 1 year ago

I'm working on touching up some worn spots on my Wild Fyre. Would someone please share a photo of the art on this part of the playfield? Mine is missing part of his arm and I'm hoping for a good reference picture. Thanks in advance!

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#3012 1 year ago

https://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2783&picno=26860&zoom=1

Pretty good pic of the Guy's arm here.

#3013 1 year ago
Quoted from cadmium:

touching up some worn spots on my Wild Fyre.

You need to paint that bare wood spot White first. NOT the purple. It will not match correctly when cleared.
Once the white is dry, you can match the purple and other colors.

#3014 1 year ago

Random, but brenna98, what kind of dog is your profile pic? Labradoodle?

#3015 1 year ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Random, but brenna98, what kind of dog is your profile pic? Labradoodle?

He's a goldendoodle. Doctor Emmett Brown, but we just call him Emmett.

#3016 1 year ago
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#3017 1 year ago

I see some great work being put into some Wild Fyre projects. If anyone would like a replacement translite, I do have one available.
Mirror effect can be re-created with chrome vinyl, not AS good as original mirror of course but decent.

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#3018 1 year ago

I’m pretty thrilled with the end result of the touch up. Not exactly a high-end restore but it no longer draws the eye to it.

B2DFFE57-3468-4844-A92A-42AB7421F25F (resized).jpeg
#3019 1 year ago
Quoted from cadmium:

Not exactly a high-end restore but it no longer draws the eye to it.

Oh yes, much less distracting!

#3020 1 year ago
Quoted from cadmium:

I’m pretty thrilled with the end result of the touch up. Not exactly a high-end restore but it no longer draws the eye to it.[quoted image]

Nice work.

#3021 1 year ago
Quoted from cadmium:

I’m pretty thrilled with the end result of the touch up. Not exactly a high-end restore but it no longer draws the eye to it.[quoted image]

Rightly so.
That came out looking nice.

#3022 1 year ago
Quoted from cadmium:

I’m pretty thrilled with the end result of the touch up. Not exactly a high-end restore but it no longer draws the eye to it.[quoted image]

That looks great! I've never done any touch up with before, but I'm considering giving it a shot. Out to curiosity, what kind of paint did you use? Any specific brand or variety you can recommend?

#3023 1 year ago

What does everybody do for targets that just brick over and over? Is there a secret on how to correct this?

#3024 1 year ago
Quoted from frunch:

That looks great! I've never done any touch up with before, but I'm considering giving it a shot. Out to curiosity, what kind of paint did you use? Any specific brand or variety you can recommend?

Acrylics, Ceatex opaque is a good for your standard colors, but you can get real close to matches with Americana brand, of course there are like a million colors.
You biggest/easiest diff'rence you can make with classic sterns is re-blacking you key lines (limes). There going to be blown out on probably any game you encounter. It's easy to do & makes a huge diff'rence.

For brushes, I love these ones you can find at Michaels...when it reopens. They aren't with the hobby brushes at my store, they are with the real acrylic brushes. A nice 2/0 is small and super good quailty
https://www.michaels.com/artists-loft-roma-round-brush/M10213645.html?dwvar_M10213645_size=4

#3025 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Acrylics, Ceatex opaque is a good for your standard colors, but you can get real close to matches with Americana brand, of course there are like a million colors.
You biggest/easiest diff'rence you can make with classic sterns is re-blacking you key lines (limes). There going to be blown out on probably any game you encounter. It's easy to do & makes a huge diff'rence.
For brushes, I love these ones you can find at Michaels...when it reopens. They aren't with the hobby brushes at my store, they are with the real acrylic brushes. A nice 2/0 is small and super good quailty
https://www.michaels.com/artists-loft-roma-round-brush/M10213645.html?dwvar_M10213645_size=4

Thanks a bunch! That's very informative!

#3026 1 year ago
Quoted from frunch:

Thanks a bunch! That's very informative!

Here is a topic dedicated to restoration, if you have not found it yet.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration

#3027 1 year ago
Quoted from Methos:

What does everybody do for targets that just brick over and over? Is there a secret on how to correct this?

Which pin are you having brick problems with? Which set of drop targets?

#3028 1 year ago

One trick I learned years ago when touching up a cabinet. As you know, a lot of paints look slightly different when wet vs. dry. I would mix up variations of a color and paint quarter size circles on a transparency and let them dry completely. Then hold that over the color I was trying to match and see which one was the closest.

#3029 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

One trick I learned years ago when touching up a cabinet. As you know, a lot of paints look slightly different when wet vs. dry. I would mix up variations of a color and paint quarter size circles on a transparency and let them dry completely. Then hold that over the color I was trying to match and see which one was the closest.

You have to put clearcoat over it to be sure the color match

#3030 1 year ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

You have to put clearcoat over it to be sure the color match

Only if you're clear coating it after.
You could be waxing, mylar, can clear etc

EDIT: Oh sorry I didn't see this was aboot the cabinet.
But yes I can clear the cab

#3031 1 year ago

Clearcoat on a cabinet?

#3032 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Clearcoat on a cabinet?

Absolutely.

HEP does it all the time.

#3033 1 year ago

Most of us are not HEP

#3034 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Most of us are not HEP

Don't know till you try!

#3035 1 year ago

I clear my cabs to even out the sheen of different paints and to smooth stencil edges and to add an extra layer of protection for the paint.

#3036 1 year ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

I clear my cabs to even out the sheen of different paints and to smooth stencil edges and to add an extra layer of protection for the paint.

I even clear over decals. Like you say, an extra layer of protection.

#3037 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Which pin are you having brick problems with? Which set of drop targets?

Big Game, the top left and bottom right each have one target that is sticking. Maybe I just need to clean them a bit and try that.

#3038 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Most of us are not HEP

Depends on the look you want. Screw old time factory quality.

I want shiny. I clear

#3039 1 year ago
Quoted from Methos:

Big Game, the top left and bottom right each have one target that is sticking. Maybe I just need to clean them a bit and try that.

Take them out an clean them. Then waX the lands.

#3040 1 year ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Don't know till you try!

Quoted from BorgDog:

I clear my cabs to even out the sheen of different paints and to smooth stencil edges and to add an extra layer of protection for the paint.

For cabs, what kind of clear are you guys using? I'd like to try this but don't want to deal with the highly toxic stuff. Maybe that means I'm out.

#3041 1 year ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

For cabs, what kind of clear are you guys using? I'd like to try this but don't want to deal with the highly toxic stuff. Maybe that means I'm out.

I use Minwax polycrylic. water based, non-yellowing, goes on over anything I've tried it on just fine, comes in multiple size cans, can even get in a spray can, comes in matte, satin and gloss for your preference. I like satin myself.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Polycrylic-32-fl-oz-Satin-Water-based-Polyurethane/999913687

#3042 1 year ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

For cabs, what kind of clear are you guys using?

Krylon tough coat clear gloss
Sorry, phone not letting me paste link

#3043 1 year ago

Any aftermarket speaker recommendations out there for Classic Sterns? Mine has seen better days. A slight bump in resolution and performance would be great if possible given the stock amplification.

#3044 1 year ago
#3045 1 year ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

For cabs, what kind of clear are you guys using? I'd like to try this but don't want to deal with the highly toxic stuff. Maybe that means I'm out.

I use typical 2 part auto clear but check the spray max club, you might be able to use that.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-spraymax-2k-auto-clear-in-a-can-club

#3046 1 year ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Any aftermarket speaker recommendations out there for Classic Sterns? Mine has seen better days. A slight bump in resolution and performance would be great if possible given the stock amplification.

Nearly anything is an upgrade from the stock speaker. I ended up putting in a speaker from a Firepower in my Meteor eons ago. It went from all mids and especially highs to a nice low end.

#3047 1 year ago

Has anyone used anything more powerful than a J26-1200 for their pop bumpers? Finally finishing a Seawitch that I have been restoring for a year or so, & am unhappy with the power of the pops. Everything is rebuilt, polished the plunger, new coil stop, new coil sleeve, cleaned switches, polished rods, the usual deal etc. These coils just will not hit hard... voltages etc check out normal. I'm down to either removing some windings from these coils or trying a hotter coil. All 3 are hitting at about same level, but they are just not impressive at all, I've had many sterns with harder hitting pops. All 3 have original Stern J26-1200's. Driving me nuts, as I've got everything else playing great, all 4 flippers are hitting strong, both slings are wicked, targets dropping good etc. This was a complete PF swap & have worked through a bunch of small weird issues & this is last remaining hurdle. I'm ordering a cap kit for the sound board tomorrow & am thinking about adding some coils to my order.

#3048 1 year ago
Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

Has anyone used anything more powerful than a J26-1200 for their pop bumpers? Finally finishing a Seawitch that I have been restoring for a year or so, & am unhappy with the power of the pops. Everything is rebuilt, polished the plunger, new coil stop, new coil sleeve, cleaned switches, polished rods, the usual deal etc. These coils just will not hit hard... voltages etc check out normal. I'm down to either removing some windings from these coils or trying a hotter coil. All 3 are hitting at about same level, but they are just not impressive at all, I've had many sterns with harder hitting pops. All 3 have original Stern J26-1200's. Driving me nuts, as I've got everything else playing great, all 4 flippers are hitting strong, both slings are wicked, targets dropping good etc. This was a complete PF swap & have worked through a bunch of small weird issues & this is last remaining hurdle. I'm ordering a cap kit for the sound board tomorrow & am thinking about adding some coils to my order.

Yes, I pulled 200 windings off the 26-1200 pops in my Xenon.

#3049 1 year ago
Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:

Has anyone used anything more powerful than a J26-1200 for their pop bumpers? Finally finishing a Seawitch that I have been restoring for a year or so, & am unhappy with the power of the pops. Everything is rebuilt, polished the plunger, new coil stop, new coil sleeve, cleaned switches, polished rods, the usual deal etc. These coils just will not hit hard... voltages etc check out normal. I'm down to either removing some windings from these coils or trying a hotter coil. All 3 are hitting at about same level, but they are just not impressive at all, I've had many sterns with harder hitting pops. All 3 have original Stern J26-1200's. Driving me nuts, as I've got everything else playing great, all 4 flippers are hitting strong, both slings are wicked, targets dropping good etc. This was a complete PF swap & have worked through a bunch of small weird issues & this is last remaining hurdle. I'm ordering a cap kit for the sound board tomorrow & am thinking about adding some coils to my order.

You could try a 25-1000 coil E.M. Bally?

#3050 1 year ago

I'm putting in an order today with my printer for a couple translites, anyone interested PM me, the more we get the less they cost.

There are 6,038 posts in this topic. You are on page 61 of 121.

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