(Topic ID: 225496)
Linked Games
Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980-
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
-
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
-
Cheetah
Stern Electronics, 1980
-
Cosmic Princess
Stern Electronics, 1979
-
Dracula
Stern Electronics, 1979
-
Dragonfist
Stern Electronics, 1981
-
Flight 2000
Stern Electronics, 1980
There are more than 8 games linked to this topic.
Click here to show all linked games
Click here to show all linked games
Topic Gallery
Wellesley, ON
Quoted from seshpilot:Friends, I'm looking for (4) w3-a-149 rollovers. Anybody have any? mitch, dothedoo, cottonm4, too-many-pins, bluespin?
I'm sure I do just dont know what that is. Do you have a picture.
I've stripped 6 populated stern playfields.
Curious if anyone knows the difference between the v1 and v2 classic Stern flipper brackets? While the layout of the screw holes is a bit different, I can't see why there would be any playing difference. The rebuild kits for both v1 and v2 are the same, but the brackets are indeed different. @djblouw?
Quoted from Mitch:I'm sure I do just dont know what that is. Do you have a picture.
I've stripped 6 populated stern playfields.
s-l400 (resized).jpgYa I have 4 I'm sure. $10 (2.50 each) plus shipping but probably cheaper if you can find in the USA. Shipping will probably be 15 to 20.
If interested send me a PM. I'll be heading out to the post office later today to ship a bunch if other parts.
Fultondale, AL
Quoted from seshpilot:Curious if anyone knows the difference between the v1 and v2 classic Stern flipper brackets? While the layout of the screw holes is a bit different, I can't see why there would be any playing difference. The rebuild kits for both v1 and v2 are the same, but the brackets are indeed different. djblouw?
One version the bracket is totally flat. The other version, the tabs with the screw holes are offset from the main plate, so that the height is different. This means that the flipper bat shafts are longer for the offset version. Now, which one is V1 and V2 I cannot remember.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:One version the bracket is totally flat. The other version, the tabs with the screw holes are offset from the main plate, so that the height is different. This means that the flipper bat shafts are longer for the offset version. Now, which one is V1 and V2 I cannot remember.
Flat is the original 1st version.
Quoted from seshpilot:Curious if anyone knows the difference between the v1 and v2 classic Stern flipper brackets? While the layout of the screw holes is a bit different, I can't see why there would be any playing difference. The rebuild kits for both v1 and v2 are the same, but the brackets are indeed different. djblouw?
V1 brackets often break at the narrow point. The differences are: the flipper pawl, shorter bushing, lighter weight plunger, fiber link, and shorter shaft metal shoe flipper.
You can use the V2 rebuild kit, but you’ll have to reuse the bushings or buy them separately. I would replace the metal shoe flippers with the one piece molded design.
Quoted from dothedoo:V1 brackets often break at the narrow point.
Back in the day, I would add extra #8 screws to the sides of the brackets to keep
them from breaking.
Quoted from seshpilot:Curious if anyone knows the difference between the v1 and v2 classic Stern flipper brackets? While the layout of the screw holes is a bit different, I can't see why there would be any playing difference. The rebuild kits for both v1 and v2 are the same, but the brackets are indeed different. djblouw?
PM sent
https://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2783&picno=26860&zoom=1
Pretty good pic of the Guy's arm here.
Quoted from cadmium:touching up some worn spots on my Wild Fyre.
You need to paint that bare wood spot White first. NOT the purple. It will not match correctly when cleared.
Once the white is dry, you can match the purple and other colors.
Quoted from cadmium:Not exactly a high-end restore but it no longer draws the eye to it.
Oh yes, much less distracting!
Quoted from cadmium:I’m pretty thrilled with the end result of the touch up. Not exactly a high-end restore but it no longer draws the eye to it.[quoted image]
Nice work.
Quoted from cadmium:I’m pretty thrilled with the end result of the touch up. Not exactly a high-end restore but it no longer draws the eye to it.[quoted image]
Rightly so.
That came out looking nice.
Quoted from cadmium:I’m pretty thrilled with the end result of the touch up. Not exactly a high-end restore but it no longer draws the eye to it.[quoted image]
That looks great! I've never done any touch up with before, but I'm considering giving it a shot. Out to curiosity, what kind of paint did you use? Any specific brand or variety you can recommend?
Quoted from frunch:That looks great! I've never done any touch up with before, but I'm considering giving it a shot. Out to curiosity, what kind of paint did you use? Any specific brand or variety you can recommend?
Acrylics, Ceatex opaque is a good for your standard colors, but you can get real close to matches with Americana brand, of course there are like a million colors.
You biggest/easiest diff'rence you can make with classic sterns is re-blacking you key lines (limes). There going to be blown out on probably any game you encounter. It's easy to do & makes a huge diff'rence.
For brushes, I love these ones you can find at Michaels...when it reopens. They aren't with the hobby brushes at my store, they are with the real acrylic brushes. A nice 2/0 is small and super good quailty
https://www.michaels.com/artists-loft-roma-round-brush/M10213645.html?dwvar_M10213645_size=4
Quoted from TheLaw:Acrylics, Ceatex opaque is a good for your standard colors, but you can get real close to matches with Americana brand, of course there are like a million colors.
You biggest/easiest diff'rence you can make with classic sterns is re-blacking you key lines (limes). There going to be blown out on probably any game you encounter. It's easy to do & makes a huge diff'rence.
For brushes, I love these ones you can find at Michaels...when it reopens. They aren't with the hobby brushes at my store, they are with the real acrylic brushes. A nice 2/0 is small and super good quailty
https://www.michaels.com/artists-loft-roma-round-brush/M10213645.html?dwvar_M10213645_size=4
Thanks a bunch! That's very informative!
Quoted from frunch:Thanks a bunch! That's very informative!
Here is a topic dedicated to restoration, if you have not found it yet.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration
Quoted from Methos:What does everybody do for targets that just brick over and over? Is there a secret on how to correct this?
Which pin are you having brick problems with? Which set of drop targets?
One trick I learned years ago when touching up a cabinet. As you know, a lot of paints look slightly different when wet vs. dry. I would mix up variations of a color and paint quarter size circles on a transparency and let them dry completely. Then hold that over the color I was trying to match and see which one was the closest.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:One trick I learned years ago when touching up a cabinet. As you know, a lot of paints look slightly different when wet vs. dry. I would mix up variations of a color and paint quarter size circles on a transparency and let them dry completely. Then hold that over the color I was trying to match and see which one was the closest.
You have to put clearcoat over it to be sure the color match
Quoted from Redketchup:You have to put clearcoat over it to be sure the color match
Only if you're clear coating it after.
You could be waxing, mylar, can clear etc
EDIT: Oh sorry I didn't see this was aboot the cabinet.
But yes I can clear the cab
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Most of us are not HEP
Don't know till you try!
Quoted from BorgDog:I clear my cabs to even out the sheen of different paints and to smooth stencil edges and to add an extra layer of protection for the paint.
I even clear over decals. Like you say, an extra layer of protection.
Quoted from cottonm4:Which pin are you having brick problems with? Which set of drop targets?
Big Game, the top left and bottom right each have one target that is sticking. Maybe I just need to clean them a bit and try that.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Most of us are not HEP
Depends on the look you want. Screw old time factory quality.
I want shiny. I clear
Quoted from Methos:Big Game, the top left and bottom right each have one target that is sticking. Maybe I just need to clean them a bit and try that.
Take them out an clean them. Then waX the lands.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Don't know till you try!
Quoted from BorgDog:I clear my cabs to even out the sheen of different paints and to smooth stencil edges and to add an extra layer of protection for the paint.
For cabs, what kind of clear are you guys using? I'd like to try this but don't want to deal with the highly toxic stuff. Maybe that means I'm out.
Quoted from seshpilot:For cabs, what kind of clear are you guys using? I'd like to try this but don't want to deal with the highly toxic stuff. Maybe that means I'm out.
I use Minwax polycrylic. water based, non-yellowing, goes on over anything I've tried it on just fine, comes in multiple size cans, can even get in a spray can, comes in matte, satin and gloss for your preference. I like satin myself.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Polycrylic-32-fl-oz-Satin-Water-based-Polyurethane/999913687
Melbourne
Robotworkshop posted this in the Meteor Club
cdc8098ba948e18e180e9a45895f0c749eaf774a (resized).jpgQuoted from seshpilot:For cabs, what kind of clear are you guys using? I'd like to try this but don't want to deal with the highly toxic stuff. Maybe that means I'm out.
I use typical 2 part auto clear but check the spray max club, you might be able to use that.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-spraymax-2k-auto-clear-in-a-can-club
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Any aftermarket speaker recommendations out there for Classic Sterns? Mine has seen better days. A slight bump in resolution and performance would be great if possible given the stock amplification.
Nearly anything is an upgrade from the stock speaker. I ended up putting in a speaker from a Firepower in my Meteor eons ago. It went from all mids and especially highs to a nice low end.
Has anyone used anything more powerful than a J26-1200 for their pop bumpers? Finally finishing a Seawitch that I have been restoring for a year or so, & am unhappy with the power of the pops. Everything is rebuilt, polished the plunger, new coil stop, new coil sleeve, cleaned switches, polished rods, the usual deal etc. These coils just will not hit hard... voltages etc check out normal. I'm down to either removing some windings from these coils or trying a hotter coil. All 3 are hitting at about same level, but they are just not impressive at all, I've had many sterns with harder hitting pops. All 3 have original Stern J26-1200's. Driving me nuts, as I've got everything else playing great, all 4 flippers are hitting strong, both slings are wicked, targets dropping good etc. This was a complete PF swap & have worked through a bunch of small weird issues & this is last remaining hurdle. I'm ordering a cap kit for the sound board tomorrow & am thinking about adding some coils to my order.
Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:Has anyone used anything more powerful than a J26-1200 for their pop bumpers? Finally finishing a Seawitch that I have been restoring for a year or so, & am unhappy with the power of the pops. Everything is rebuilt, polished the plunger, new coil stop, new coil sleeve, cleaned switches, polished rods, the usual deal etc. These coils just will not hit hard... voltages etc check out normal. I'm down to either removing some windings from these coils or trying a hotter coil. All 3 are hitting at about same level, but they are just not impressive at all, I've had many sterns with harder hitting pops. All 3 have original Stern J26-1200's. Driving me nuts, as I've got everything else playing great, all 4 flippers are hitting strong, both slings are wicked, targets dropping good etc. This was a complete PF swap & have worked through a bunch of small weird issues & this is last remaining hurdle. I'm ordering a cap kit for the sound board tomorrow & am thinking about adding some coils to my order.
Yes, I pulled 200 windings off the 26-1200 pops in my Xenon.
Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:Has anyone used anything more powerful than a J26-1200 for their pop bumpers? Finally finishing a Seawitch that I have been restoring for a year or so, & am unhappy with the power of the pops. Everything is rebuilt, polished the plunger, new coil stop, new coil sleeve, cleaned switches, polished rods, the usual deal etc. These coils just will not hit hard... voltages etc check out normal. I'm down to either removing some windings from these coils or trying a hotter coil. All 3 are hitting at about same level, but they are just not impressive at all, I've had many sterns with harder hitting pops. All 3 have original Stern J26-1200's. Driving me nuts, as I've got everything else playing great, all 4 flippers are hitting strong, both slings are wicked, targets dropping good etc. This was a complete PF swap & have worked through a bunch of small weird issues & this is last remaining hurdle. I'm ordering a cap kit for the sound board tomorrow & am thinking about adding some coils to my order.
You could try a 25-1000 coil E.M. Bally?
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
