For one the height is wrong. They are shorter and don’t sit flush with the playfield when they are in the down position. I have to lay target foam across the bottom of the bank and it is about right for the height and then adjust the switches accordingly for new drop location.

Yes, I know that are shorter and that can be compensated for. Do they not play well for you. I have 6 Sterns set up with these drop targets. They all play great for me. You make me feel like I am missing something. What kinds of sub-standard playing experiences are you having with them?

Working a Stern PF swap.
Question installing carriage bolts
How do you install them?
Hammering in gently?
Other thoughts?

Not sure I understand what you're asking...the only carriage bolts I can think of are on the coin door surround and 2 on side metal?

Use awl to slightly inlarge hole... put tape on playfield to help prevent chip.
tap in gently.

PF clear coated, was thinking of drilling top side and bottom side maybe 1/4” to slightly in large hole.

Thoughts?

Carriage bolts are used on slings holding plastics in place. Bally games use T-nuts

I threw away those old carriage bolts and installed t-nuts and used the 6/32 bolts made for those star posts.

Does anyone know of a source for new classic stern coil wraps?

Was considering T-nuts

T nut it for sure. Unless you’re doing an exact production restore, t nuts are better.

I know its not original but my rationale was neither is my repro pf... this way i know they won’t spin.

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All of mine unscrew. And then screw back in.

But like some others, I go with the T-nuts as a replacement. However, I do wish those Data East style machine threaded bolts were just a little longer. I would prefer it if the threads extended all the way through the T-nut. It has me thinking I may make some of my own with some threaded rod, a nut, and some thread locker.

Ahh yes, I get rid of those immediately and change to tophats.

Does anyone need any parts or plastics from a Big Game? about ready to strip a PF. No Drop target assemblies, saucer kicker, or right sling plastic. most everything else up for grabs if you need a part.

On my last restore I had several carriage bolts where the square holes in the wood were rounded out.

I drilled the bottom side out a little larger (not all the way through), installed 6-32 t-nuts and 2-1/2” machine screws screwed in from the bottom with a lock washer against the base of the t-nut. The excess length can be cut off, posts and plastics are still secured with a nut and washer, and the original look is retained.
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That looks like the way to go. machine screws are cheap. Those Data East post screws are something like $2.75 each.

I found my old flipper buttons and housings.

I have sent you a PM.

Thanks

Interesting idea, thanks for sharing

I print on staples sticker paper. Cut and peel. Works great.

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/coil_wrappers.htm

Did you check my website http://www.inkochnito.nl ?
Look in the "coil wrappers" section.

Thank you both - i’ll check those out

For the #6-32 carriage bolt that strips the wood... I add a small #6 hex head
sheet metal screw, screwed up against the carriage bolt head... along with
some glue.
T-nuts and new hardware, hands down give a cleaner look to any vintage Stern game.
I really like Williams' #8/32 x 5/16 hex head fastener
for posts that came out in the early 1990's.
Especially, for the posts that get hit by the main flippers.
eg. bottom sling shot posts next to the flippers.

A̶n̶y̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶n̶e̶e̶d̶ ̶s̶o̶m̶e̶ ̶W̶i̶l̶d̶ ̶F̶y̶r̶e̶ ̶p̶l̶a̶s̶t̶i̶c̶s̶?̶ ̶$̶5̶p̶p̶d̶ ̶(̶u̶s̶ ̶o̶n̶l̶y̶,̶ ̶b̶a̶s̶i̶c̶a̶l̶l̶y̶ ̶f̶r̶e̶e̶ ̶+̶s̶h̶i̶p̶p̶i̶n̶g̶)̶ [edit: claimed]
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Anyone looking for a ball walker? Looks to be in good shape

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A heads up for the people in this group.....
I've added Tech Charts for ALL Stern Electronics games to my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Look in the Stern Electronics section or the Tech Chart section.
If you find any errors on these charts, please let me know and I will correct them.
I could still need some help getting the lamp wires for Viper correct.

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

Working on classic stern.
Looking where to purchase ball return brackets.

Have they been remade or does anyone have one kicking around.

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djblouw was making some flipper brackets, might be able to talk him into those. Contact him directly or check the Big Game club thread....

If you don't have any luck finding one of those, yours can be repaired easy enough. All you need is pair of tin snips, a drill, and some JB Weld. If you can't find a piece of sheet metal to make an angle with, go to Home Depot and get an angle bracket used in building wood fences. Or go buy a can of dog food or cat food. Or a can of green beans. Some sheet metal from a can will work for that bracket.

I am looking at the one for Big Game. It looks nice, however, when I print it out, both ends of the print are cut off. To get the entire page to print, I have to scale it down to 60% on my printer and then int is too small to read. You got lots of good info. packed in. Maybe it is just something with my printer that I do not know how to compensate for.

Mitch, are you just bragging or are you selling Dibs on the plastic pops

I swear I’ll get the viper stuff checked for you. Just haven’t been able to get to my game with all the government orders.

I’m getting through these games that have been stacking up finally. Finished hot hand After seawitch swap Now I’m onto wild fyre. Still to bring back from dead are trident, galaxy, nugent and dracula waiting in the back.

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And hot hand is an excellent game. Very cool rules. A lot going on.

Damn missed it. The small thin torch plastic is the only one I need!

Wow, never played a hot hand.

Of all the classic Sterns I have played, I enjoyed Hot Hand the least. I've played 3 different ones. Just didn't like it. Trident, Galaxy, and Dracula are sweet. Still haven't played Nugent.

What about hot hand didn’t you like?

Here’s the run down on the rules. You have the 4 suits in the grid of bonus. Ace, king, queen, jack, ten. Different switches and pops/slings rotated through current selected suit. To spot a card in the lit suit you have several options. Hit the standup on playfield that lights that specific card. Or land in one of the saucers by big flipper that spots said card or snipe one of the drops in the bank. Each drop represents one card. All of the cards can be done one of those three ways besides the ace. The Ace can only be spotted from the center drop target. 10’s have a few extra spots to be spotted like extra saucers so that ones the easiest to collect.

Everything in the game opens up and is worth more based on the hands you collect. If you get a pair of anything you get 2x bonus. If you get 3 of a kind it’s 3x bonus. 4 of a kind is 4x. 5x is lit from a flush. Every lit card is worth 1k in bonus.

Now each straight flush on the different suits lights a playfield feature for more valuable points. Often 10x value. I think spades likes your spinner for 2k a spin. Hearts might light the stands ups that are normally 1k a bit for 10k. Clubs I believe Lights the big flipper area for 10x(more on that below) And diamonds is possibly lighting special/extra ball(which can be turned on for points). Also any time you have all 4 of a suit that drop target card normally worth 500 points is now lit for 4x value. If you have all 4 aces that drop target is 10x

The big flipper area. Each saucer lights a card. Two saucers are Kings. Two are queens. Two are Jacks and 4 are 10’s. When a ball lands in one it spots the card and counts up rapidly in 100 point increments until the rotating flipper knocks it out. If it’s lit for 10x it’s counting up in 1k increments rapidly until knocked out.

That’s a much deeper rule set than most anything of that era. You can type out seawitch rules in a quick paragraph and that’s the end. The layout is good. Pops keep you on your toes. Drops are placed nicely to pick off what you need. All cleaned up and rebuilt it plays pretty fast with the big open layout. If your just shooting away and not paying attention to what you need to be picking off and completing drop bank at right time to reset so you can catch the ace you need you’ll be going no where fast.

Love my Hot Hand..

There's actually two unpopulated switches in the switch matrix that spot the Ace. One scores 500 points, the other scores endlessly like the upper pockets.
Makes me wonder if that was the original intention of the white left standup near the spinner. Or maybe the ROMs were designed with a secondary layout/game in mind like Stern did with other MPU-100 games.

Interestingly enough, there is a 'spot ace' in the software that wasn't implemented - I think maybe for the top rollover.

Hot Hand is a game that I avoided like the plague as a kid - because I usually only had a quarter or 2, and needed it to last, so I'd play games like Silverball mania and TriZone, both of which I was good for 25-30 credits on. Get enough credits and sell them to another kid whose parents were more generous with their pocket change for a couple bucks. That way I could try other games (my childhood arcade had a Voltan, BION.... not many of those extra quarters went into that).

It's a fun game, and one of the few with the software mods that ended up making it slightly easier - the side kickbig now spots the Ace on mine.

I intend to make it harder, getting bonus multipliers is too easy

I think the design choice of this is that you seem to get the bonus multiplier carrot quickly - but then you realize you're not really getting all that out of it.

Are you going to make the multipliers tied to completing the line instead of just multiple cards in suits?

Completing the entire card is extremely difficult but so rewarding when you do.... if you have a ball to collect 2 cards on!! Most of the time I've only done it on the last ball.

Oh yeah even forgot the joker super bonus. If you fill the grid after you drain you can start filling another grid on another ball.

I could see that upper right single standup originally being designed for a spot ace. Also agree you pretty much always can get the 4x bonus off tens. But like Scott said it’s an easy carrot but you realize just that isn’t leading to big points easily.

Something tells me an All Classic Stern Tournament is in the works? Sounds incredible!

Yes, making suites will increment the bonus multiplier. Plus changing the below mentioned by Whridlsoncestood so when you complete the grid, it immediately switches to super jackpot bonus so you can start filling the grid again. Right now it becomes a dead end on the current ball in play.

I think you've taken the file from the Stern Electronics section.
In the Tech Chart section it mentioned that these files are in tabloid (A3) size.
You can see it in the properties of the file when printing.
You wil have to use a larger paper (and printer) or adjust to paper size when printing.
Tabloid (A3) size makes it more readable, but you can always reduce the size.
Just like the Tech Charts in Bally/Williams games.
Nearly all my Tech Charts are in tabloid (A3) size.

You can also print the file in two parts and tape them together.
In the pdf file you can change to view.
First print the regular left side in portrait mode.
Then turn the page 180 degrees on the screen and print the other part.
That way you will have your tabloid (A3) size Tech Chart.

Peter

That's a good idea to add to mine... but it's still in storage from the last tournament it went to. Might be incentive to set it back up, but of course that slot in the basement has been filled by something else. I have been meaning to get the codebase from 2011/2012 into shape since at this point I don't know for sure what the source code compiles TO, version wise.

Someday I’ll be hosting the Classic Stern World Championships. Mark my words. Getting real close.