Excellent thanks for info, I do have spacers put them aside and forgot to install
Quoted from Madmax541:Excellent thanks for info, I do have spacers put them aside and forgot to install
I didn't take enough pics during my Meteor tear down and had to go back afterward and add those dang washers lol. Luckily, the new light socket leads had some play so I was able to put them back in.
Are classic stern manuals on line that show breakdown and call out part numbers?
Like planetary pinball has Williams & Bally.
Finally spending some quality time on my Star Gazer while I'm on medical leave. 1 drop target assembly done, 2 more to go!
Oh my fingers and elbows from scrubbing! LOL
Brian
20200304_103905 (resized).jpg20200304_103920 (resized).jpg20200304_103930 (resized).jpg20200304_103938 (resized).jpg20200303_082157 (resized).jpg25157 (resized).jpegQuoted from bpull:Finally spending some quality time on my Star Gazer while I'm on medical leave. 1 drop target assembly done, 2 more to go!
Oh my fingers and elbows from scrubbing! LOL
Brian[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You might consider putting a light coat of rattle can clear on your shiny parts. They will dull and start looking a little white after some time.
They look nice.
As long as we’re posting purdy stuff. Freefall had a sh*t ton of stuff to rebuild and shine up. My fingers and elbows are tired too.
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Quoted from play_pinball:What are y'all using to scrub those things so shiny?
For anything that will fit a tumbler is the best way to go IMO.
For the bigger stuff I use a wire wheel.
Non shiny/chrome pieces anyway Novus 2 for those
Quoted from Pingball:Hadn't heard of spraying the metal with clear before..
Yeah you gotta spray it, it'll turn to crap again.
Quoted from play_pinball:What are y'all using to scrub those things so shiny?
I used green scotch pad, then 1500 grit then finished with 2000 grit metal paper.
Tumbled the screws.
Brian
Quoted from bpull:I used green scotch pad, then 1500 grit then finished with 2000 grit metal paper.
Tumbled the screws.
Brian
Hope you all are wearing masks with you do this work. Those particles aren't kind to lung tissue.
Quoted from Methos:Hope you all are wearing masks with you do this work. Those particles aren't kind to lung tissue.
yes I am, thanks for looking out!
Brian
My one and only entrance into this club. Apron cards by agodfrey and translite by Atari_Daze . Guess it's not the most loved game of the club, but I have really been enjoying it.
DSCF7276 (resized).JPGDSCF7281 (resized).JPGQuoted from dothedoo:As long as we’re posting purdy stuff. Freefall had a sh*t ton of stuff to rebuild and shine up. My fingers and elbows are tired too.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I think you need to post more photos.
Quoted from dasvis:I think you need to post more photos.
Haha I know, right? 16 mechs in this game. It felt like forever to clean everything up.
Quoted from Methos:Hope you all are wearing masks with you do this work. Those particles aren't kind to lung tissue.
Me too, but with facial hair you still have to be careful when the dust is flying.
Quoted from play_pinball:What are y'all using to scrub those things so shiny?
Ultrasonic cleaner, then tumble the small parts.
I used 4 or 5 grits of sandpaper from 600 to 3000 on the flat pieces.
The other parts get the Dremel with a 400 grit buff. I wish there were finer grits available, but it works pretty well.
I had a problem with about half of the controlled lights in Freefall that was driving me nuts. Sure it has a bunch of loose, troublesome sockets, but not this many.
I noticed the affected lamps were associated with J1 and J3 on the lamp driver board. Some of the lamps would work for a while, then stop working. I'd mess with the sockets and some would start working again, some wouldn't.
Anybody want to guess what the problem(s) were?
Quoted from dozer1:My one and only entrance into this club.
Great looking game Dean! Very glad I could contribute something.
Quoted from dothedoo:I had a problem with about half of the controlled lights in Freefall that was driving me nuts. Sure it has a bunch of loose, troublesome sockets, but not this many.
I noticed the affected lamps were associated with J1 and J3 on the lamp driver board. Some of the lamps would work for a while, then stop working. I'd mess with the sockets and some would start working again, some wouldn't.
Anybody want to guess what the problem(s) were?
The mounting bracket on the right side for the lamp driver board was the wrong one, and the back of the J1 and J3 headers were shorting out to it?
Jim
Quoted from dothedoo:I used 4 or 5 grits of sandpaper from 600 to 3000 on the flat pieces.
You need a buffing machine $50..00 at Harbor Freight plus cloth polishing wheels, and 2 kinds of buffing compound. And a workbench to mount it. But time is money
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:The mounting bracket on the right side for the lamp driver board was the wrong one, and the back of the J1 and J3 headers were shorting out to it?
Jim
Although, this would more than likely keep the lamps turned on all of the time.
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:The mounting bracket on the right side for the lamp driver board was the wrong one, and the back of the J1 and J3 headers were shorting out to it?
Jim
It has the correct brackets and the board was secured properly.
J1 and J3 were repinned. J2, which appears to be working correctly, has not been repinned.
Quoted from dothedoo:As long as we’re posting purdy stuff. Freefall had a sh*t ton of stuff to rebuild and shine up. My fingers and elbows are tired too.
Do you guys tumble all these metal parts? I want to get my stuff shining like that and I can never achieve it! Time to buy a tumbler...
What media do you use?
I have a wire wheel but I find that usually goes too crazy and I start chewing stuff up or it’s too difficult to hold.
Maybe I’m doing it wrong.
Quoted from cottonm4:You need a buffing machine $50..00 at Harbor Freight plus cloth polishing wheels, and 2 kinds of buffing compound. And a workbench to mount it. But time is money
Oh boy... yet another machine for the bench
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Do you guys tumble all these metal parts? I want to get my stuff shining like that and I can never achieve it! Time to buy a tumbler...
What media do you use?
I use corn media, I use to use walnut shells but my youngest was born and has a nut allergy. So that ended that stuff!
Brian
Quoted from bpull:I use corn media, I use to use walnut shells but my youngest was born and has a nut allergy. So that ended that stuff!
Brian
Man that sucks. Sorry to hear that, you have to worry about every single thing that touches their body.
Quoted from bpull:I use corn media, I use to use walnut shells but my youngest was born and has a nut allergy. So that ended that stuff!
Brian
I was using the corn media and decided to give walnut shells a try. I cannot tell any difference performance wise, but the walnut media gets dusty enough that I empty my tumbler outdoors. I'll probably go back to corn when it is time to buy again.
Quoted from cottonm4:I was using the corn media and decided to give walnut shells a try. I cannot tell any difference performance wise, but the walnut media gets dusty enough that I empty my tumbler outdoors. I'll probably go back to corn when it is time to buy again.
Interesting. I always thought walnut was preferred, performance-wise. I'm using some Harbor Freight walnut media now and it is very dusty. I don't remember my last batch of walnut being so dusty. It was Kaytee bird litter from PetSmart.
Quoted from dothedoo:It has the correct brackets and the board was secured properly.
J1 and J3 were repinned. J2, which appears to be working correctly, has not been repinned.
I misspoke, J2 was also repinned.
I used to use walnut then corn to finish, then someone said you didn't need both so went with just walnut and it was perfect. But yes it is dusty as hell, and I am in the process of building a hood to put over it to dampen sound and control dust. Buuuut if corn works just as well and is less dusty that could be the way to go!
Good info guys.
Quoted from Madmax541:Working on first classic stern restore, Seawitch.
Rebuilding pop bumpers can’t remember where brass washer go? Is it correct in picture?[quoted image]
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:They go below the nylon spacer you pointed out that he’s missing. They raise the whole body ever so slightly so the skirt is a little higher than the playfield for better sensitivity.
I was hoping someday, that a pinsider that had shop skills would make a "Base wafer" for
the classic Stern/Game Plan pop/thumper bumper assemblies, so as to make them more
like Bally's module thumper bumpers that are used on games like EBD and other late
1980's Bally pinballs.
The end result would hopefully be to have a pop bumper body that is firm...
that does not wobble... etc,etc,etc.
Quoted from vec-tor:I was hoping someday, that a pinsider that had shop skills would make a "Base wafer" for
the classic Stern/Game Plan pop/thumper bumper assemblies, so as to make them more
like Bally's module thumper bumpers that are used on games like EBD and other late
1980's Bally pinballs.
The end result would hopefully be to have a pop bumper body that is firm...
that does not wobble... etc,etc,etc.
Well speak up man! Are we basically talking a plastic spacer like thing? I could probably sketch something up fairly easily and get them going quick.
Quoted from HHaase:Well speak up man! Are we basically talking a plastic spacer like thing?
Yea... I tried to do one in wood... it did not go very well... ( hacked up mess )
I did not have the skills nor a cnc machine. ( back in the 1980's )
The spacer would be like the base unit on Bally's EBD style thumper bumper.
Quoted from bpull:I use corn media,
Quoted from dothedoo:Man that sucks.
Actually that should be "Man that shucks"
Quoted from TheLaw:Tumbler is great Isochronic, if you have the time.
Quoted from vec-tor:Yea... I tried to do one in wood... it did not go very well... ( hacked up mess )
I did not have the skills nor a cnc machine. ( back in the 1980's )
The spacer would be like the base unit on Bally's EBD style thumper bumper.
Are you talking about that plastic wafer that attaches to the under side of the play field?
Like this? Sort of like a shortened version of Stern and Data East pop bumper bodies?
Quoted from TheLaw:[quoted image]
Just buy new coil sleeves. Don’t be tumbling those old ass aluminum ones fool!
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Just buy new coil sleeves. Don’t be tumbling those old ass aluminum ones fool!
Those are drop target sleeves. I keep them in mine. They don't hurt anything.
Quoted from cottonm4:Those are pop bumper sleeves. I keep them in mine. They don't hurt anything.
I think you mean drop target reset coil sleeves.
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Just buy new coil sleeves. Don’t be tumbling those old ass aluminum ones fool!
The whole point of owning a tumbler is not to buy replacement parts
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:I think you mean drop target reset coil sleeves.
Thank you. Corrected.
Quoted from TheLaw:The whole point of owning a tumbler is not to buy replacement parts
That's my man in action
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