Count me in, both meteor’s I have are missing it as well. Seems like an odd part to rob...

I'll get a half dozen sampled printed up, first come first serve, and 3 already claimed.

-Hans

I'd sample a 3D printed one. It is just a button and a dual diameter shaft. Sort of off-white bone color. Do you need a specimen for modeling purpose?

No need for a sample, I happen to have an original sitting next to my keyboard but I hadn't had a chance to knock out the 3D model of it. Already have a couple printed. I see you also sent me a text.

So, that I think claims all 6 of the samples..... if folks would kindly PM me their addresses I can get them on the way.

These will be a normal white for now, closest I have on-hand for material at the moment.

-Hans

Edit:
Got a hold of her... looks fantastic!!!

This may be the plan for the future of my machine (but... will keep original parts or purist sake)

Hi, HHaase, how can I sample a 3D printed Stern start button? I need one for "Pinball"...

I can do one more freebie, sure. Shoot me your address and I'll try to get it mailed in my order queue tonight.

I have a Lectronamo with the original SB-100. I've been reading that it has "chime circuitry" that can be used, but can't find any guides or anybody that has said "yeah I've done that". Is it really as easy as wiring up an existing chime box and flipping a dip switch on the MPU, or am I misunderstanding what it means by chime circuitry? I don't see any tip102s on the SB-100, so how does it work, send a signal back to the MPU which tells the SDU to fire the correct chime coil?

Get with Scott Charles on this. The original code only supports the "chime circuitry" on the SB-100 that is populated with the chime circuitry (read fully populated SB-100 board).

Scott has been rewriting the code for games that use the SB-100 to handle chimes. The Nugent PF I had at the York Show had chime support. It's much, much better. I can't stand the sounds out of the SB-100.

Jim

PS Wild Fyre can be coded for chimes too!

And lectronamo uses the same roms as nugent.

So it's basically done already

Minus start up and game over tunes, though....

But how does it work? Are the chimes connected to the SDU like the other coils? What is the role of the sound board in this? It seems like with a ROM change necessary it would just be switch -> MPU -> SDU instead of switch -> MPU -> SB-100 -> MPU -> SDU.

I'm assuming the SB-100 doesn't drive the coils but maybe I'm wrong. The schematics for Lectronamo didn't have anything indicating where chimes would be connected.

It’s a mod, never had it that way from the factory. Not sure what else is involved

I'd be down to do this to my Stern Magic. My Meteor had a Bally chime box laying in the cab when I got it, so, I believe I have the necessary parts.

It's a rom change. You connect the chime box to unused outputs on the solenoid driver board.

Then you disconnect the mpu100 as it's not going to be utilized anymore.

Magic already is in beta test for this, it's working except for the start up tune, and Nugent was the first one, that has no start up or game over tune.... but the chimes certainly work. Both games use different unused coils but it's not too hard to hook up - you need solenoid voltage to the coils (available from the coin door solenoid) and a couple of wires. You might want to put a connector inline with it as well so you can still take the playfield out if needed (most of the unused solenoids depending on the game are on the playfield solenoid connector)

For the original person questioning the "chime like" they are referring to the sound board being very simple and producing chime-like noises, i.e. really simple repetitive sounds. They never intended nor built in from the factory a 'switch' between actual chimes and the sound boards' sounds.

The 100 sound board is ok if its the lower pitched variety, I don't mind it on my Hot Hand, but the high pitched one is god awful.

Until Scott adds the start up tune, you'll be good with the Bally chime box. You'll just be missing the one "extra" chime, when the game ends. There are single Bally chime boxes out there for solid state games at least.

Someone said Nugent is the same ROM as Lectronamo, is this the case? If so, how do I get the ROM? Happy to make a donation to the cause or help beat test. Also have a Wild Fyre I can convert if you're planning on ever working on that one.

Yes, it's the same. Contact Scott, or I can send the binaries to you.

that would definitely be cool on my Magic, happy to help with the Beta testing if needed!

How did this happen? Short story: I added credits on my Big Game. The upper limit for credits is supposed to be 40. When I had zero credits, I hit the credit button and wound up with 99 credits on the display.

I'm not complaining but this is not supposed to happen.

Any ideas?

I am using the Stern MPU-200 board.

IMG_2346 (resized).JPG

What version of the software do you have running? It went from 00 to 99 when you went to start a game or it went to 99 from 00 when you hit a coin switch?

If its some kind of freeplay software it may just be allowing the credits to decrement without ensuring first that there's at least one credit to do so. The way the routine is written is it checks first to see if there's >0 credit to even allow starting a game.... if >0, it will decrement a credit and then start a game. If there's freeplay code in there that skips the >0 check it will dutifully decrement from 00 to 99 and still start the game.

Clear the audits. My guess is there was bogus data in the credits and the game corrected it to 99.

I don't know what version of software are loaded on the ROMs. I don't know how to check. I was having board problems and installed an Alltek MPU. This is the first time I have played this pin with the Stern MPU.

The longer story: I installed my Big Game ROMs into an MPU-200 board that had been to the repair shop. With all of the dip switches set, I credited up 14 games and played them. At zero credits, I dropped a quarter and only 9 credits loaded and the credit microswitch locked up and would not let me add more credits. I burned all 9 credits and went to zero credits but still could not add more credits.

I turned the pin off and back on. And when I attempted to add credits, I was blessed with 99 credits showing. Everything is working fine.

I'll try and clear the audits but I am enjoying the warp to 99 credits instead of just 40 credits.

If they're originals (you tell from the label, post picture) - probably a glitch in the audits like dothedoo said, although the audit for credits is only a single byte wide, and the decrement routine isn't supposed to work on anything but that one byte, so surrounding bytes in the nvram being off shouldn't affect it. Having it show the actual 00 means that there wasn't a random value there, but if either digit was a blank, that would have done so as it would have decremented somewhere between $9a-$ff depending on which was blank, and because the routine automatically corrects it to be between 00-99 decimal, it would have rang up 99.

You'll like the new romsets when you get them in since the max credits will be 99. Set your coin switch to add 15 credits and only a couple rings to get up there, and of course, they're free play too.

They are not the originals. I sent some boards to a guy who said he could work on boards, only he couldn't. But he did add some new Big Game ROMs to my MPU-200. This was in 2016.

Still probably likely the originals. You won't know for sure unless you get a burner to verify them.

While free play roms did exist previous to 2016, they were free play only (at least my variant was) so you would have free play still on it.

The logical explanation for the 99 credit ringup is the one I posted, do you recall if one of the credit digits when it was at zero was blank? Either would have caused this behavior. While the routines that increment and decrement audits (credits are just an audit location) correct for non-hex digits, they don't check if the source IS hex before adding/subtracting.

Rebuilding drops is never quick. Bringing a catacomb back to life.

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Ain't that the truth! In the same boat as you.

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I have a tip for you.

On the back plate of the assembly there is a screw plate that the 3 target switches attach to with 2 screws. While apart, screw that plate into position and tape it down with couple of strips of duct tape. Make sure the tape will not interfere with any other parts. This will make things a whole lot easier to attach the target switches that screw plate taped into position.

The above is for if you still have the switches soldered onto the wiring.

I am not ignoring you. It is just that I have to work off 99 credits down to 00 to see what happens.

I am down to 43 credits showing

Thanks for the tip!
I was thinking of leaving that switch plate off completely, and attaching the switches to it first, and then the plate (with the switches) on to the already attached drop housing?
I'm aboot to look at my pics to see if it's possible and which one goes where as the switch plates are not all the same...possibly for no reason whom knows.

Edit : of course the switch plated have to be screwed from the inside of the housing... Oh tricky stern

Tricky Stern is right.

I am in the slow process ( I just love spending money) of installing molex connectors for the switches and coils for the drop targets. That way, you just unplug the DT assembly at the molex and undo the four screws that hold the DTs to the play field.

I'm considering that for the bumpers for sure. All you'd need for the drops is the switch plate to be able to thread in from the back. Unscrew the plate, 4 screws to the bottom PF and done? EDIT: oh duh the coil...

Anyway, we all do this for the love of doing it. Like...I can't wait to find out what I did wrong here and have to redo all of them it's always something.

Edit: Duh, figuring it out now
catdrop (resized).jpg

I may have asked this before and forgot but I wanted to do this preemptively on the Orbitor 1 (just waiting on my MPU-200 to get fixed) so that if I ever have future issues the molex will be a godsend. Which ones were the proper ones to use? Again, apologies if I asked this previously.

Also I have 2 meteors I’m restoring and of course the 3 other MPU-200’s I have are all bad. Who’s a good person to send them out to??

How did you get those drop target housings so shiny?

A 9-pin .093" inline Molex would work for a 3-bank drop target assy. (https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=03-09-2092 & https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=03-09-1094). A 9-pin would also work for a 4-bank, provided that the 4-bank has a common switch row or column between a minimum of 2 of the switches. https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=46

Send your boards to @CHRISHIBLER, at Chris' Pinball Repair (http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact/), provided that they are not too roached with battery damage.

Thats the bueaty of a tumbler.

You should consider spraying on some clear Krylon or Rustoleum. The shiny will start dulling out and looking white if you don't. It does not take much paint. You are not painting a custom car. You can slop it on.

Anyone have a spare set of lightning playfields laying around? Condition doesn't matter, im after the inserts. Just bought a game missing all the inserts. Thanks!

I'll bet that once all that stuff is put back together you may never have to disconnect them again. After replacing original targets on over a couple of dozen games I only had one game, Galaxy, ever suffer a broken drop target. Just sayin, unless you like doing connector work, might not need to do this step.

Good point. You have given me something to think on.

I worked off the last of the credits and here is what I see.

The credit digit(s) shows double zero when in attract mode. I also have zeros running across the displays while in attract mode.

I also turned the pin off and then back on after these pics were taken. And all is back to normal with 40 credits being the maximum number of credits allowed.

IMG_2429 (resized).JPG

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Can someone with an ALI assist me? My top left connector only has 8 pins, but the headers have 9. My Quicksilver had the red wire on the 1st pin from the left, but I don't know if that is accurate. Any help is appreciated. thanks.
IMG_0493 (resized).jpg

Is that your HSTD with the blanks in the zeros? If so you need to reset it.

We'll chalk this up to a strange anomaly.

What is HSTD? They are factory displays. And how do I reset?

Thanks.

The board was changed in later revisions. If your plug has 8 pins, then plug it in so that the left side is flush, leaving the 9th pin open. May wanna check the schematics on the red wire, though, if you think it was moved.

On Ali, pin 1 is connector red wire. You should have a blocking key in pin location #4 from the left; Jam a toothpick in there if you don't have a key.

That is an aftermarket rectifier board.

Highly Score to Date

Thanks Cotton and Coyote.