Have you repinned the upper left connector on the MPU? That's what it looks like to me...

Hi guys, finally joined the club this weekend, added a Dracula to my early SS lineup. Current laundry room line below. Dracula is not powered on as I'm waiting for some parts to fix some wiring hackery.

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Also looking for a couple plastics for Dracula. Missing the small one over the kick hole, and the big top left one has a couple major cracks. The two shown in this pic, not my machine, from gallery here.

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Not sure if this will help anyone, but I finished up the Stern Magic LED conversion the other day. I had several bulbs out (8). I found and replaced 3 bad SCRs on the LDB. This fixed all but 4 lights. Using low cost Comet LEDs and the seigecraft adapters. I was using all warm white except the 4 that were having issues. I was using cool white in them because they were the 4 inserts I thought looked good with cool. I usually use cool under green, purple and blue inserts. Anywho, on a complete whim of curiosity, I swapped in warm whites in those 4 and they all work fine. I haven't had an issue mixing colors before, so maybe the way Magic is wired had something to do with it. Just a weird one I figured I'd share.

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Does anyone know if the little button rollover switches from Stars have been repro'd or available anywhere? Mine are looking a bit haggard. thanks

I believe Pinball Resource has them on this page.

http://pbresource.com/rollobut.htm

thank you! yes, I think that top one is it. I should have known to check with PBR.

The spots giving you issues, were they not working at all? Or strobing badly?

-Hans

Totally off. Issue was happening with and without your boards, so I know it has to be something with the game or the LEDs themselves.

Does anyone have a fix for the rivet coming off on the lockdown bar lever? Can it be attached with a nut / bolt if the receiver is removed?

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Actually, the small rivet piece you are holding in your hand looks like one of the rivets to hold the receiver and the slider bar together. Your lockdown bar handle comes fastened with a machine screw and nut from the factory.

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You will need a couple of washer spacers.

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Since it looks like you don't have the proper spacer washer with a shoulder, I would suggest drilling the hole in the receiver to a larger size to match the hole in the handle. Get a machine screw, some washers and a nylon locking nut so you can adjust tension and it all should work fine.

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Seawitch Listed:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/86761

You have a nice looking Seawitch. I would like to offer a correction. Your back glass was reproduced by John Greatwich and not CPR as your ad states. CPR makes Seawitch plastics, but not the back glass, as far as I can tell.

Thanks, yes its very nice. It is a CPR. Check their website under back glasses, you'll find it.

What is this nail for? What purpose for this?

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I just noticed that all of my Stern cabs have this short nail hammered into the cab just to the left of the coin door.

Catacomb

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Nine Ball...and the NB cab I have converted to a Quicksilver had one as well.

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Seawitch

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Dragonfist. The nail is gone but the hole is still there.

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Meteor has a nail as well. Not pictured

That’s so that when you swing the coin door wide the coin plate doesn’t put a big old dent in the cabinet. Bally does the same thing.

Yeah. Bally one was bigger and hit the coin return button.

Just checked my Bally and yep, there it is alright.
Never noticed it really as it is rather inconspicuous.

You’ll notice it when you restore a cabinet and then don’t install one back in and open your coin door into your fresh paint job ... I mean probably

Is there any way to adjust the kickout direction from the hole in Dracula? Mine is shooting the ball into the pop bumper cap adjacent to it and then into the glass. I tried bending the tip a bit, and bending the wire post sticking up, neither seemed to have much of a effect, when the ball comes to rest in the hole it is all the way to the right side and gets kicked that way no matter what. I can see where it used to hit the playfield by the wear marks, but it not longer shoots there. ideas?

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I thought the coil stop is adjustable. I did a service call on one, and the coil stop had a
brass screw with a brass nut to adjust the throw of the plunger.

You will need to remove the screws that are currently holding the saucer into position. Make new marks carefully on where you want the kicker to shoot to and drill new holes. You should consider and may even have to fill the old holes with dowel rod and clean them up.

I'll take a look, thanks.

screws? they be nails, but yes I had considered this but thinking I may need to move the whole mech as well.

Just a thought, but couldn't you just swap in a lower strength coil?

maybe, but it's more the direction it's going than the strength, although it is a bit strong to be hitting the glass like it does. I think with a lower strength coil it would still be hitting the pop bumper though. I'll see if I can find what's supposed to be there and see if what I have matches.

I've been considering moving my Barracora kickout for the bottom lock. It usually kicks sdtm and you have to work to save the ball.

got a altek board in my Quicksilver but can't get high scores to work all I see is this: tried changing the dip switches to no avail...

any ideas?

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You try the memory clear function? Does it work fine in another Bally/Stern?

So you put the beehive protector over the cupped inserts?

Does it work well? I was wondering if I would have to fix those before putting on the protector.

Yeah probs just needs a memory clear.

Protectors work great to neutralize the effect of cupped inserts.

Yeah. Clear the high scores in the menu. Clear all the audits to be safe and start fresh. Usually fixes that.

OK. I guess the plastic piece that is there is nailed in. But I was talking in terms of the entire mech assembly, which I would think is screwed in, needs to be rotated at little bit. And you would have have to pulls the nails and rotate the plastic pice to match.

thanks will try on Thursday.

Does it go into attract mode,and can you start a game? If not, I suspect that the game dipswitches are set for a Stern game with multiball. You will something similar to this on the displays with a Stern multiball game, if it can't find the other balls.

There are 2 jumpers in the upper left hand corner of the Alltek MPU. There are 3 jumper pins for each jumper connector. For Bally, the jumper needs to be on the 2 right most pins. For Sterns, the jumper needs to be on the two left most pins. It is in the instructions. This is for all MPU-200 pins.

I won't say this is your problem or even if it will cure your problem if you need to swap your jumpers, but they do need to be on the left hand pair of pins

The one classic Stern I bought from a retailer was supposed to have been play tested before it was shipped to me. When I received that pin it played like pure shit. I don't know how any same person could have said it was playing well. It had an Alltek MPU installed. I looked and the retailer missed swapping those two jumpers over to the left, but he still shipped me something he said played well. So, if you missed the jumpers, you are not the only one who has---even the "pros" missed it.

The other thing is if the board was in another game before this Quicksilver, you need to do a factory reset, or the new game can act wonky. See the instructions to set the dips for a factory reset.

Does anyone Know who the person is that made the Wonder Woman backglass and plastics for the Lectronamo that was at Expo?

https://backboxpinballpodcast.fireside.fm/18

Don't forget the custom side art, too.

The side art was cool. She did a nice job on the game.

I have a beehive over cupped inserts on a Flight 2000. Completely flat now.

What is a beehive?

Playfield protector, I just found it last week. Gonna order one for my meteor.

https://beehivepinball.bigcartel.com/product/playshield-playfield-protector

I have one on my Meteor. Works great over cupped inserts.

Quick question. Are all early stern cabinets the same? Would a stingray cab work for my galaxy?

I have the same thing from Beehive - made my game playable again.

Yes, I did have the adjustable coil stop, and adjusting that helped the power, but what ended up fixing the direction problem was adjusting the switch. It was pressing so hard up that the pin on it was forcing the ball off to the side resulting in the ball being fired into the pop. everything in Drac now working well, thanks everyone for the tips and ideas.

Just for the record.....
There are now Tech Charts available for all the M-100 games.
You can find them in the Tech Chart section or the Stern Electronics section on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl

I also added all the Tech Chart information to the Pinwiki site, http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Stern
Just click on the game name.

Thank you

Looking for the start button on the coin door. Has anybody repro'd these or anybody got a used one they want to get rid of? I just picked up a Flight 2000 and the start button on the coin door is missing.

Want to sample a 3D printed one?