I’m sure that it’s the second one that you need here:
http://jtamusements.com/store/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&zenid=tk68jmmab31r0h46vp25ipr504&keyword=Stern+lockdown+

Cheetah is widebody. That bar isn’t.

Good point. Didn’t think of that.

The Data East lockdown bars will work fine. Original Stern lockdowns are basically impossible to find. Use the DE one and pray one day an original will show up

How many widebody data east game were there? GNR, WWF and BF? Better grab this last one floating around there.....

http://jtamusements.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_4_23&products_id=1395&zenid=1m4j45ljvmls8t0trctit0r2q1

It won't if the tangs are in the wrong spot. The lockdown receiver on classic stern tab style lockdowns is the same between the widebody and narrow body it's just mounted in the middle and they made the lockdown bars by cutting regular bars up on an offset and joining them together.

Pinball Life shows both the narrow and wide body lock down bars. Only one receiver is shown.

Since Data East just Gary Stern riding with a new name I’m betting the same economic manufacturing practices that drove Stern carried over to DE.

What worked for Stern was still good. Why reinvent the wheel?

I’m betting the wide DE bar will fit. It just will be painted black and not shiny stainless.

We went over this before. I bought the Data East receiver off a WWE and I had a classic Stern widebody lockdown bar for Orbitor 1 and my data East bars were interchangeable. Literally scroll up just a few posts.
They are identical and they will fit. Cotton made a HUGE post about how they are all interchangeable. I even emailed Pinball Life and explained it fits perfectly, I guess Terry either doesn’t believe me or hasn’t updated the site since then. They DO work. Trust me because I literally just bought them and they’re all interchangeable

It is strange. All Terry has to do is walk out to his inventory, pull one wide body lock bar, one narrow body lock bar, and the one style of receiver that he has in stock and verify the info you passed back to him.

I have reread the Pinball Life link and the DE wide body lock bar is/was made by cutting up 2 standard lock bars and spot welding then to the part that mates to the receiver. This is the exact same way the Stern wide body bars were made. There is no way DE went to expense to conjure up some new fangled way to attach a wide body lock bar.

If Terry won't make a move after you showed him the way, then there is no point in me contacting him.

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsega-widebody-front-molding-black.html

Screen Shot 2019-09-23 at 8.57.42 PM (resized).png

What his site does say is that there are LIMITED QUANTITIES of both the primo wide body bar and the 2nd rate wide body bar. So, if you have a Stern wide body pin and need a lockdown bar you might want to add to your inventory. You can always get it chrome plated or powder coated in Silver. You might wait around and get lucky and find an old original Stern wide body lockdown bar but that string has been getting pulled pretty hard of late. They are getting hard to find and the prices are going up.

I stand corrected. So, if I have this right, you can take a Stern Flight 2000 wide body lock bar and latch it down to a DE wide body. It will be a little long on the ends but can be attached?

But to try and latch a DE wide body bar to a Flight 2000 can not work because the DE wide body is narrower?

So, if you wish to have a new play field glass custom cut for your Stern wide body you cannot use the same play field glass on the DE wide body; The DE will also have to have a glass custom cut to yet another different size.

I assumed that Stern and DE wide body cabinets were the same size. Talk about mistaken assumptions.

I stand corrected. Thanks.

Odd note but I tried switching lockdown bars between my seawitch and my dragonfist and they don't work. Dragon fist works okay on seawitch, but the seawitch one is too narrow for dragonfist by just a hair...it is really weird.

That is just vagaries between cabinets. They were not built with a high degree of precision. Same for lock down bars. You can probably get a small hammer and do some tapping on the ends of the Seawitch bar and knock them out just a little bit to fit the Dragonfist cab.

Well well well

20190924_212111 (resized).jpg

Very very jealous, would love to find ant get hold of a project Catacomb

Oooo nice

... you see what happens when you leave the garage door open?!

There has to be a story on this. It does not look like a beater. Speak!

My friend picked it up... And then I bought it from him!
So really not much of a story. I didn't even ask him anything I just needed it in my
Hands.
Gonna need some work, but hey it's got a real bagatelle gate so that's something

Yeah that's the one.
Funny how I'm not one Facebook so I didn't know he picked one up....and none of my other pinball chums told me aboot it even though they know I've been looking for a long time.

Oh you pinball rascals!

So that's it? It sort of fell into your lap? No endless miles of highway hypnosis? No thrill of the chase? No getting bent over on the price?

I have one so I do not covet yours But I am jealous with the way some can just rub the Genie bottle and like magic a desired pin just sort of appears

Shit, he even delivered it

I'd say i love it when that happens but this might be the only time so it's a little new.

That sounds like my MO for how I have acquired most of my classic Sterns.

Haha I saw that post and figured this is where it came from. It sounded like he was keeping it bassed on his initial post or I would have inquired about it as well. Maybe we need a classic stern row at PATZ next year?

If I could only be like that. I blew up the environment and tore up several highways chasing all of mine.

This is what happens, Larry...

O.T. but similar... I did a basic repair on a pinball game.
Williams Jackbot. The lady said that she was just talking to
a local neighbor and her husband had just past away ( the original owner of the game )
and the widow did not need the game so she gave it to her, free.

What I meant was it has been a bit rough, made some silly trades and paid probably more than I should, some I did get lucky due to karma, so it's been a hell of a ride, but not easy.

That's part of the fun - played my QS and DF last night - love those games.

I might be able to help with that. Been meaning to get to PATZ.

Got my Lectronamo fired up today, with the sound working for the first time.

Now I understand SB100 opinions.

What did I do to deserve this?

Brtual

Could be worse ...

It could be a Gottlieb System 1 ....

BEEP BEEP BEEP BOOOOOP

rd

Check out Terry at Pinball Life’s Nugent, if you get a chance. That sounds pretty rad!

Spoiler: it actually plays real Nugent music and sound effects. So does his KISS.

rd

Ok, what am I missing here? I keep blowing Q4, for my outhole coil.
I can trip it by grounding the tab on Q4, and it fires nice and strong, so I know the wiring is good as is the coil voltage.
All other coils are working fine.

Last time I replaced Q4, the coil fired 2-3 times during test, and looks like the transistor went dead again now.
Won't fire either in the game or via test mode.

Nothing is shorting out around the outhole, I replaced the old aluminum sleeve with a nylon one just in case.
New diode on the coil, wiring isn't backwards.

Never had this kind of repeated transistor failure before. But I'm also new to the Bally/Stern SDB. So not sure if I'm missing something.

-Hans

Bad coil? Internally shorted?

Chuck in a new one and see what happens.

rd

Is Q4 blowing to pieces or just stop functioning?
Did you reflow the print headers at the driver board?
Sometimes you cannot see the hair fractures...
In this case it should be visible.

Measure the Q4 with a multimeter at diode setting and compare with the other transistors.
If this is oke, replace the CA3081 at U1.

I've seen this a few times. Bad diode, or wired backwards. The EMF from the coil winding is blowing the TIP. Hence why you can ground the tab as many times as you like and it works perfectly every time.

Pinfixer is exactly right.

This is what that flyback diode is for. Your coil is an inductor and stores energy in its magnetic field. When it switches off, the field collapses and can cause voltage transients in the switching transistors outside of their specification, destroying them.

That is fantastic! And they said it couldn't be done. Way to go Scott!
Now for the rest of the -100 Sterns that need the chime treatment. =)

One of the first things I tried was checking/replacing the coil diode.

Here's where things get weird. It actually worked this morning for a brief time. Looks like if I let the whole thing sit for a while, powered off, I'll get a couple shots with that coil before it rapidly loses strength and stops working. Supply voltage and wiring though are both fine as it fires at full strength if I ground the drive transistor.

I think I'm just going to rebuild the whole circuit for that coil on the SDB, from the 3081 on down.

The transistor usually only blows when there's a problem with the diode on the coil preventing the back EMF being blocked, otherwise most other issues should cause the solenoid fuse under the playfield to blow, not the transistor. Check that fuse and make sure someone hasn't overfused it. Should be a 1 amp slow blow. Banded side of the coil diode should be on the yellow wire. Measure the DC resistance of that coil, it should probably be in the 9 - 10 ohm range.

Yep, fuse is fine. Coil is wired correctly. Coil diode has been replaced. Coil ohm's out fine.
All other solenoids are working just fine.

If it sits overnight the outhole will fire fine once or twice, then get super weak, then stop altogether.

Just very odd.

Looks like one of the previous times Q4 went, it gave U1 a hit. Replaced U1 and CR4, things are working properly now. At least in that area.

Still plenty of work to do and the restoration continues.

I can at least play full games now, with full solenoids and switches.

Need a little help with a Dracula flipper rebuild.

I just noticed that the switch stack on one flipper appears to have an extra switch (or some kind of EOS i haven't seen yet - this is my first classic Stern). In any case, the tabs on the switch base aren't connected to anything, but there are old solder lumps on the tabs. What is supposed to be happening here?

IMG_3634 (resized).jpg