New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,220 posts
  • 266 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by hisokajp
  • Topic is favorited by 144 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,374 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20201123_191138 (resized).jpg
20201123_191118 (resized).jpg
20201123_191320 (resized).jpg
20201123_191303 (resized).jpg
20201123_191248 (resized).jpg
20201123_191234 (resized).jpg
20201104_163220 (resized).jpg
Screen Shot 2020-11-22 at 9.37.41 PM (resized).png
IMG_4976 (resized).JPG
IMG_4979 (resized).JPG
IMG_4930 (resized).JPG
80DE86F3-73F8-4E8B-898C-477D91B37F92 (resized).jpeg
B940BD27-8BC4-4AFC-B644-D23FB15CBB28 (resized).jpeg
5EE86055-5A31-4A26-9F3B-F1E020D27DDA (resized).jpeg
B03A6222-4647-4873-A3E7-D95E3AC858E6 (resized).jpeg
Screen Shot 2020-11-18 at 5.06.37 PM (resized).png

Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 4220 posts in this topic. You are on page 45 of 85.
#2201 1 year ago

Hey Classic Stern fans, I'm about to start restoring my Quicksilver and I have a question regarding the coin door. What do people do? Powdercoat or paint? And what colour? What about the coin mechs? zinc plating or polishing? Thanks.

#2202 1 year ago

reposted here from the projects forum

Manufacturer: Stern
Game/Type:Rawhide
Cost: $25
Location: Charlottsville VA
Contact:https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2119061884865797/
Vintage pinball machine. Needs electrical work, does not work. Must be able to pick up.
Condition
Used - Fair

Like Colson always says... WIWC 25 bucks people!

#2203 1 year ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Hey Classic Stern fans, I'm about to start restoring my Quicksilver and I have a question regarding the coin door. What do people do? Powdercoat or paint? And what colour? What about the coin mechs? zinc plating or polishing? Thanks.

Paint it with Rustoleum hammered silver. There is a slight blue tint to it so you could experiment with silver over blue, but silver alone is acceptable.

#2204 1 year ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

reposted here from the projects forum
Manufacturer: Stern
Game/Type:Rawhide
Cost: $25
Location: Charlottsville VA
Contact:https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2119061884865797/
Vintage pinball machine. Needs electrical work, does not work. Must be able to pick up.
Condition
Used - Fair
Like Colson always says... WIWC 25 bucks people!

Rawhide is a fun game. Enjoy mine.

#2205 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Paint it with Rustoleum hammered silver. There is a slight blue tint to it so you could experiment with silver over blue, but silver alone is acceptable.

I’ll have to check if that’s available in Australia. Not a brand I recall, but thanks.

#2206 1 year ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

I’ll have to check if that’s available in Australia. Not a brand I recall, but thanks.

It’s available from Bunnings. Rustoleum hammertone

#2207 1 year ago

Gotta have your hammered silver!!!

But as also heard it only works perfectly in over 80 degree temps, to really get the true effect.

#2208 1 year ago

Found some competition video on Lightning, first I've seen. Too bad the spinner is borked but worth a watch.

#2209 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Found some competition video on Lightning, first I've seen. Too bad the spinner is borked but worth a watch.

Lightning’s in all our competitions. Will be in 24 hour final battle circuit event and possibly pintastic circuit event 2020.

I really enjoy the rules/how it plays. Huge joe joos jr fan.

#2210 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Gotta have your hammered silver!!!
But as also heard it only works perfectly in over 80 degree temps, to really get the true effect.

Make sure to sand/score the legs before applying or else the paint will have nothing to adhere to and will eventually flake off.

#2211 1 year ago

Has anyone done a play field for lightning?

#2212 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Has anyone done a play field for lightning?

No. I wish. These inserts don’t age well. Mines very cratery. Greatwich John does backglasses.

#2213 1 year ago

Ok, not expecting many answers on this but here goes!

My Catacomb will 100% of the time award an extra 20000 points each time a drop target set completes. It shouldn't award anything except 1000 points per drop.

Putting an Alltek board in, the problem vanishes.

So, how on earth do I fix the Stern MPU board? Any idea which component might be responsible for the behaviour?

Thanks

#2214 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Ok, not expecting many answers on this but here goes!

My Catacomb will 100% of the time award an extra 20000 points each time a drop target set completes.

I just looked up your MPU board picture you previously posted and notice you have RA28G ROMs meanwhile RA32 are the version in the wild and what I've twice recently seen.

We need you to get your ROMs dumped! They might be special with other differences!

FYI, Alltek is running Catacomb code matching the RA32 code.

#2215 1 year ago

Thanks - so it's basically early code?

I guess they decided it was too easy awarding 20000 for each set of drops.

My game is an early German version, with the letters, and I think the audits go back decades.

#2216 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Dead Dragonfist:
I have been having some spirited sessions with Dragonfist for the last few days. This morning, the good times ended. During mid-ball, the pin just froze up. I can turn it off and then turn it back on and it is still frozen. It does not reset. It does nothing but light back up with the same play field lights frozen and a blank back box.
I have not started trouble shooting this yet. I thought I would plumb for ideas before I start looking around.
Is it something simple? I don't know yet.
Have I blown a fuse? I don't know.
Has a connector pin gone bad and folded up? I don't know.
Has something gone bad on a board? I don't know.
The pin is equipped with an Alltek MPU, a Bally SDU, and a Bally lamp board. It also has a new Weebly rectifier board.
As I said, it just quit cold. And is frozen.
Any thoughts on where to start looking are appreciated.
I have to leave and spend the day running errands.
This is it. I have GI and a few feature lights. Nothing more.
[quoted image]

Finally got to Dragonfist this morning.

It was a blown fuse on the rectifier baord. A 4amp fuse on F3. It is working fine now. But my big question is why did the fuse blow in the first place?

Is there something I need to be worrying about? Just what caused the fuse to blow? Or does this get filed in the "shit happens" file and I move on along like nothing happened?

Thanks all for offering suggestions.

#2217 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Thanks - so it's basically early code?

Potentially yes. Looks like the German Stern ROM list for Catacomb may have started at version 25 - see page 3 of the below pdf.

It would be great if they could be dumped and the code preserved for the community.

Stern_ROM_list.pdf

#2218 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It was a blown fuse on the rectifier baord. A 4amp fuse on F3. It is working fine now. But my big question is why did the fuse blow in the first place?

Did the old fuse blow violently or was it just open circuit? Got a picture?
Do you have LED displays?

#2219 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Potentially yes. Looks like the German Stern ROM list for Catacomb may have started at version 25 - see page 3 of the below pdf.
It would be great if they could be dumped and the code preserved for the community.
[quoted image]

I agree as it changes the game totally scoring 20000 after completing a set of drops.

Wonder which version is most fun to play?

#2220 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Wonder which version is most fun to play?

The question is whether there's other differences in your version.

#2221 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

The question is whether there's other differences in your version.

I will study the ruleset in more detail, but I haven't noticed anything else.

#2222 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Did the old fuse blow violently or was it just open circuit? Got a picture?
Do you have LED displays?

I would say it blew violently. There is quite a gap between blown electrode?/wire.

I have the original Stern displays installed.

Screen Shot 2019-09-13 at 1.26.23 PM (resized).png

#2223 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I would say it blew violently. There is quite a gap between blown electrode?/wire.

It looks like it was a new fuse that blew so it had already been recently replaced?
Suspect it will probably happen again till the cause is found.

#2224 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

It looks like it was a new fuse that blew so it had already been recently replaced?
Suspect it will probably happen again till the cause is found.

It was a fuse that was supplied with the Weebly rectifier board.

I had played quite a few games over several weeks before it blew.

At least it did blow. So I will keep playing. I’ll start studying the prints and track the circuits and try to figure it out.

#2225 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

I had a Nvram.weebly board in my dragonfist with similar behavior, wouldn't get past the second flash. Swapped in altek board and it was back up and running. I haven't bothered to take a look at the nvram board yet.
I do have weird behavior from my upper right drop target bank. If I knock down say just the lowest drop target, but don't clear that bank and then I drain. On the next ball even though the targets all reset if I hit just the top two the bank will act as if though it has been cleared and reset and award me the bonus X for that bank if it is lit. It could be any of the drops in that bank as well not specific to the lowest one, and it doesn't seem to do it all the time either. I have tried different versions of the code, different boards, my switches are well adjusted and I've replace the diodes on all of those switches as well...
I'm guessing I'm just left with connectors at this point but wanted to see if anyone else had a similar experience by chance.

Hmm that might be a software bug I've noticed something similar before on DF. It's probably not clearing the flags correctly. Does it ever happen in a multiplayer game and if so does it stay on the same *player*?

#2226 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

Hmm that might be a software bug I've noticed something similar before on DF. It's probably not clearing the flags correctly. Does it ever happen in a multiplayer game and if so does it stay on the same *player*?

Good question. I’ll check it. I think it traveled from player to player but typically I play it alone so unsure.

#2227 1 year ago

Someone is selling a Lightning back glass on CL.

dayton.craigslist.org link

#2228 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Someone is selling a Lightning back glass on CL.
dayton.craigslist.org link

Seller is Pinsider weir pinball

#2229 1 year ago

My first classic stern, Ali, is in the house. Anyone have a part # for this flipper button switch? I want to order from pblife or marco. Thanks!

20190915_142224 (resized).jpg
#2230 1 year ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

My first classic stern, Ali, is in the house. Anyone have a part # for this flipper button switch? I want to order from pblife or marco. Thanks![quoted image]

If you cant to keep the game OEM...
Just order the tungsten contacts from pinball resource.

#2231 1 year ago

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-10A-48

That's the cheapest that Marco has that will work I just use this type in all my games if I'm not just replacing the contacts. Sometimes I take the stack apart and put it into the original stack so I won't have issues with spacing but most of the time this one works out of the box.

You won't find an "original" replacement so if that's important to you, get the contact like vec-tor says.

#2232 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-10A-48
That's the cheapest that Marco has that will work I just use this type in all my games if I'm not just replacing the contacts. Sometimes I take the stack apart and put it into the original stack so I won't have issues with spacing but most of the time this one works out of the box.
You won't find an "original" replacement so if that's important to you, get the contact like vec-tor says.

I'll save the originals for the next owner! Thanks for the part#...

#2233 1 year ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

My first classic stern, Ali, is in the house. Anyone have a part # for this flipper button switch? I want to order from pblife or marco. Thanks![quoted image]

I might have a spare, what’s it for?

#2234 1 year ago

Ali. No big deal I have to order a bunch of stuff from Marco - thanks for the offer!

#2235 1 year ago

Another successful stream with cloud7 (turbografx7)
Check out Seawitch https://www.twitch.tv/videos/482095553

We are doing a whole series of my collection, so please follow to get notified for the next one.

#2236 1 year ago
Quoted from brenna98:

Another successful stream with cloud7 (turbografx7)
Check out Seawitch https://www.twitch.tv/videos/482095553
We are doing a whole series of my collection, so please follow to get notified for the next one.

Very nice stream man! Any chance you are ever going to reproduce those stern aprons like you did for the bally games? I have your Fathom and Centaur and they are just amazing! My Seawitch and Stargazer could use the same love.

#2237 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Any chance you are ever going to reproduce those stern aprons

I collected some decent demand for Stargazer, Quicksilver and Seawitch. Probably enough to justify making the metal tooling. Splitting up the volume to print the individual titles is one of the issues.
Stargazer has a light blue with white screen OR dark blue with yellow screen.
Quicksilver has black base with green screen OR dark green base with light green screen
I think seawitch only has light blue base with dark blue screen; not sure if there is a 2nd version.

The dilemma: Choose one variant for each game and go with it OR further dilute the volume and make some of each.
Known issues:
- Pinball Rescue already sells decals for the screen portion of the art, which I believe has kept the demand for a new reproduction part relatively low. Not as nice of quality, but presentable.
- Stern's aprons where made of a thicker gauge steel than bally, so the original steel is likely still in good shape compared to the flimsy Bally's

Not saying it won't happen, just showing all the considerations when thinking about making these.

#2238 1 year ago

well, crud, I went and messed up my Lectronamo somehow. Has a new Weebly CPU board in it too.

Had it actually playing a game, except the outhole coil wasn't working. The coil ohm'd out ok, voltage was good, and I could fire it by grounding the transistor tab. I didn't have any transistors to spare, so I pulled an unused one from Q1, and used it to replace Q4.

Well, something happened the game just didn't like!

I get into attract mode, but it doesn't reset the drop target banks during boot, I don't hear the relay clicking during boot, and even testing at the CPU board I don't have any stuck switches but they do show up during switch test. I did re-install Q1 with a fresh TIP102, but no change.

Displays work, controlled lamps are working, I have solenoid voltage.

Not terribly familiar with how the MPU-100 works, so not sure what I should be digging into next. From all I understand, if a PIA is dead, it shouldn't get into attract mode.

#2239 1 year ago

Just to confirm, it looks like I'm able to register switches on the upper header, but not on the lower header.

I can trigger all coils, and the flipper relay, by grounding their respective tabs on the solenoid driver board.

-Hans

#2240 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Stern made two styles of lockdown bar receiver assemblies. The early ones, like Dracula, may or may not have the ball and socket type of receiver. The later Sterns replaced the ball and socket with a slotted type of receiver.
If you have a slotted type of lockdown bar, you may be in luck.
Stern/Data East used the same style of lockdown bars as found on the classic Sterns form Ali and on. My DE Robocop lockdown bar will fit on all of my Sterns.
If you have the slotted style of lockdown bar this receiver should work OK.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6881-00
This is a DE lock bar that works with that receiver. I don't know if this is wide body or not. Pay attention.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5757-00
Pinball Life also has the slotted receiver.
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-front-molding-lockdown-bar-receiver-assembly.html
If you do have the ball and socket type of lockdown bar and do not wish to change and if you really want a ball and socket receiver, your best way to source this part is put up WTB ads, or watch Ebay. Be caeful with Ebay; Lots of sellers will not know the difference.
Or in general, just get ready to beg.

Quoted from cottonm4:

I do not completely understand. Pinball Life sells DE lockdown bars. And they don't have any receivers to fit the DE bars they sell? I'm glad you scored yourself a Big Game--Orbitor 1 lockdown bar. And none of the receivers they had will fit?
On the left is my Nine Ball bar receiver. One the right in my Data East Robocop bar receiver. They are the same.
BTW, From Ali and on, Stern produced two lockdown bars. One bar is for the narrow body pins such as Seawitch, Quicksilver, etc. And there is the wide body lockdown bar for Big Game, Cheetah, Freefall, and I feel safe in saying Orbitor 1 will use the same lockdown bar.
Pinball Life is selling DE widebody lock bars and narrow body bars. I would think that one of the receivers Pinball Life sells would fit the DE bars that are selling. But who knows?
[quoted image] [quoted image]
This is my Nine Ball lockdown bar mounted to DE Robocop.
[quoted image]
This is my DE Robocop lockdown bar mounted to Nine Ball.
[quoted image]
This is my Big Game lockdown bar mounted to Robocop.
[quoted image][quoted image]
These all cross fit.

cottonm4 you were right sir! I finally received my Data East lockdown off a Pinsider parting out a WWE and it fit the Orbitor 1 bar perfectly. No idea why Terry thought they didn’t fit.
8FEB9AD2-3E6D-442C-A5CC-03C783408BEF.jpegB5CCD93C-7914-4DAF-BB61-F6E6A5A320C7.jpeg

#2241 1 year ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

cottonm4 you were right sir! I finally received my Data East lockdown off a Pinsider parting out a WWE and it fit the Orbitor 1 bar perfectly. No idea why Terry thought they didn’t fit.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Glad it all worked out for you.

Please do us all a favor and contact Terry with the non-debatable information you now have.

#2242 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Glad it all worked out for you.
Please do us all a favor and contact Terry with the non-debatable information you now have.

I already told him, but I will submit the photos too

#2243 1 year ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Just to confirm, it looks like I'm able to register switches on the upper header, but not on the lower header.

I can trigger all coils, and the flipper relay, by grounding their respective tabs on the solenoid driver board.

Measure the voltage at test point TP3 on the solenoid driver board. If you don't read 5 volts, you've lost voltage to the solenoid logic and predriver circuit on the solenoid driver board. Usually happens due to a bad connection on the 5 volt loop wire at connector J3 that runs from pin 13 to 25.
See the section from the solenoid driver board schematic below:

SDB_TP3 (resized).jpg

#2244 1 year ago

Might be onto something there. Crimps do look pretty poor, but unfortunately I'm completely out of hand-crimps right now, have to order more.

Goofing around with the connector I did get some momentary clicking of the relay and solenoids..... now my MPU LED just locks steady-on when I try to power it up. So going to dig deeper into that connector.

What an odd design.

#2245 1 year ago

I always hard jumper that Brn-Wht connector in order to make sure the board gets the +5 volts.

#2246 1 year ago
Quoted from HHaase:

What an odd design.

Bally probably designed the board in sections, or used manufacturer reference circuits and that was the easiest way to link it together. The jumper fix has been SOP for many years now though but I admit I'm lazy too and don't always implement it when I go through a game (depends on how bad the SDB is in it)

#2247 1 year ago

Quicksilver 2 light baffle 3D printed for a friend. Turned out really nice! Thinking about making slots for the screw holes for easy leveling adjustment.
Brian

20190916_215925 (resized).jpg
#2248 1 year ago

still looking for a complete 4 bank stern drop target assembly. If anyone has one or leads I'd appreciate it! Thanks!

#2249 1 year ago
Quoted from vbittnv:

still looking for a complete 4 bank stern drop target assembly. If anyone has one or leads I'd appreciate it! Thanks!

PM sent

#2250 1 year ago

I’ve been on an early stern streak it seems. My first was Meteor awhile back which i still have. Next was a Trident. Then in the past 6 months I got a Cheetah (blue cab), Wild Fire, Stars and a Dracula. I need a lockdown bar for my Cheetah, would be great if anyone could help me out with that.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 12.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
$ 5.00
Playfield - Decals
Doc's Pinball Shop
There are 4220 posts in this topic. You are on page 45 of 85.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside