(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

12 months ago



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#2151 10 days ago
Quoted from bangerjay:

What’s the agreed upon number of classic sterns? Disregarding prototypes

Quoted from TheLaw:

Huh, good question.
26 by my count? That's not including 3 EMs.

From Meteor to Orbitor = 18
(Cue is not counted)

From Pinball to Magic = 12

(Cosmic Princess is counted)

Total = 30.

So, 27 (without counting the 3 EMs.)

#2152 10 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

(Cosmic Princess is counted)

Oh never seen that

#2153 10 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Oh never seen that

I believe Cosmic Princess is in Australia only for a few more than 100 units.

#2154 10 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I believe Cosmic Princess is in Australia only for a few more than 100 units.

336 were made. It was made as what’s known as a knockdown Kit. Only the game specific items (and a few key parts) were made by Stern and shipped to Australia; backglass, populated playfield with wiring harness, all boards, transformer, lockdown bar assembly.

Allied Leisure had to order a cabinet, legs, leg bolts, etc common parts locally in order to assemble the game. Shipping to Australia was very expensive.

#2155 10 days ago

I was getting 34 with the ems, hafta go back and check how I got that

#2156 10 days ago
Quoted from bangerjay:

What’s the agreed upon number of classic sterns? Disregarding prototypes

I count 33, but what do you consider classic? I did count EM's. I didn't count Cue, Fas Trac, Hypnox, Laser Lord, and Pentogram. Also Pinball is listed as both EM and SS.

https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?mfgid=302&sortby=name&searchtype=advanced

#2157 10 days ago
Quoted from pinwhoo:

I count 33, but what do you consider classic? I did count EM's. I didn't count Cue, Hypnox, Laser Lord, and Pentogram.
https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?mfgid=302&sortby=name&searchtype=advanced

I imagine some people would count Gamatron as well, but that's a little nebulous. Cosmic Princess is missing from the list you posted that's probably how.

I would have considered the collection 'completed' if I'd gotten all the mpu-100 and mpu-200 games, including Cosmic Princess, and the unique EM's. (i.e. Pinball in SS OR EM would have satisfied by definition of compelte).

#2158 10 days ago

Ali X
Big Game X
Catacomb X
Cheetah
Cue X
Dracula X
Dragonfist X
Flight 2000 X
Freefall
Galaxy X
Hot Hand X
Iron Maiden
Lectronamo X
Lightning X
Magic X
Memory Lane
Meteor X
Nine Ball X
Nugent
Orbitor 1
Pinball X
Quicksilver
Rawhide X
Seawitch X
Split Second X
Star Gazer
Stars X
Stingray X
Trident X
Viper X
Wild Fyre X

#2159 9 days ago

This is a site I stumbled onto 3-4 years ago. I assumed it has every Stern Electronics pin from 1977 to 1982 listed with a small play field pic.

http://members.iinet.net.au/~lantra9jp1_nbn/gurudumps/Pinball_Manuals/stern.html

#2160 9 days ago

The inlane ball guide on both my Stars and Stingray pop out at the top on occasion. Does anyone have a good fix for this? It only happens on the left. Both right guides seem like they are solid.

#2161 9 days ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

The inlane ball guide on both my Stars and Stingray pop out at the top on occasion. Does anyone have a good fix for this? It only happens on the left. Both right guides seem like they are solid.

Are the mounting holes hogged out? Those guides have to be TIGHT. Fill it and drill it.... slightly smaller than the diameter of the guide, then tap it in with a small mallet.

#2162 9 days ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

The inlane ball guide on both my Stars and Stingray pop out at the top on occasion. Does anyone have a good fix for this? It only happens on the left. Both right guides seem like they are solid.

Find the ball guide hole on the bottom side of the play field. Seal it with some tape--any kind of tape.

Get the ball guide out of your way.

Protect your play field from glue drips.

Get some thin bodied medium setting super glue.

Start filling the guide hole with super glue. Fill to almost the top. Let it sit for 24 hours.

Get the proper size drill bit and drill out the excess glue.

Reinstall your guide.

#2163 9 days ago

Well, poop. Almost had my lectronamo running, only one solenoid not firing for the outhole, and actually managed to kinda play a game. Replaced the transistor and it's taken a few steps back.

Some days are just not fun in pinball.

-Hans

#2164 8 days ago

New (old) pin day at RDs place ...

Toast!

rd

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#2165 8 days ago

Good additions Dave dude!

#2166 8 days ago
Quoted from bangerjay:

Good additions Dave dude!

Gotta try and keep up with my old mate Jay ...

To be honest, I’m not chasing these things, they just sort of show up or fall in my lap.

I’ve had the Meteor for a long time ... I had a Magic 20 years ago that I really liked but it always broke down so I sold it. No Altek boards back in the day ...

There are 12 now, including Cosmic Princess, Trident and Nugent that aren’t in this room yet.

rd

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#2167 8 days ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Gotta try and keep up with my old mate Jay ...
rd

It’s me trying to catch you!

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#2168 8 days ago
Quoted from bangerjay:

It’s me trying to catch you![quoted image]

Looks like you’re pretty much there, champ!

rd

#2169 8 days ago

Just got word, my Meteor project is on its way here! Can’t wait to see what turns up!

#2170 7 days ago

Congrats rotordave! What a score! Would love to run across a Stern Iron Maiden.

#2171 7 days ago

Iron Maiden all shopped up!

rd

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#2172 7 days ago

Nice pick ups Dave. I'm excited when I snag just one.

#2173 7 days ago

Catacomb all done too!

It’s been a busy day.

The playfield on the Catacomb is really tidy. The backglass is a minter too.

rd

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#2174 6 days ago

Dammit i gotta find a Catacomb!

#2175 6 days ago

The top row of segments is out in one of my displays. I followed Kukpa's guide. All connections reflowed, the associated transistor and the chip both replaced as well as the 100k resistors. There is continuity from the last pin that appears to connect to the top segments to all the other components in the chain. The display is certified as the issue through swap out to other slots and cross verification. Anything else to look at before I give up?

#2176 6 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

The top row of segments is out in one of my displays. I followed Kukpa's guide. All connections reflowed, the associated transistor and the chip both replaced as well as the 100k resistors. There is continuity from the last pin that appears to connect to the top segments to all the other components in the chain. The display is certified as the issue through swap out to other slots and cross verification. Anything else to look at before I give up?

Look very closely at the connections between the glass layers of the display.
Sometimes you can see the connection is black (tarnished) or the metal connection is just plain gone.
End of life for the display....

#2177 6 days ago

Anyone done any maintenance on sound boards? In my meteor and quicksilver when the game is turned on there is a drone noise that never stops. Doesn't do it on my Nine Ball. Wondering if I can fix it? Start a game and the sound is gone.

#2178 6 days ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Anyone done any maintenance on sound boards? In my meteor and quicksilver when the game is turned on there is a drone noise that never stops. Doesn't do it on my Nine Ball. Wondering if I can fix it? Start a game and the sound is gone.

I own Meteor, the drone never goes away. It's supposed to be there. It gets higher and higher pitched the more you score. It can't be shut off, that I am aware of.

#2179 6 days ago
Quoted from tomdotcom:

I own Meteor, the drone never goes away. It's supposed to be there. It gets higher and higher pitched the more you score. It can't be shut off, that I am aware of.

no. This is when you turn the machine on. Nobody playing. When I start the game, yes I get the sounds of the game, but when the game is over the machine is silent.

#2180 6 days ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

no. This is when you turn the machine on. Nobody playing. When I start the game, yes I get the sounds of the game, but when the game is over the machine is silent.

Oh, sorry I misunderstood

#2181 6 days ago
Quoted from tomdotcom:

I own Meteor, the drone never goes away. It's supposed to be there. It gets higher and higher pitched the more you score. It can't be shut off, that I am aware of.

One can see how this “feature” could easily be mistake for a bug!
“No no not the normal obnoxious drone, the other drone!”

#2182 6 days ago

Make sure all your boards have all there ground screws and are tight. Might eliminate the noise.

#2183 5 days ago

Dead Dragonfist:

I have been having some spirited sessions with Dragonfist for the last few days. This morning, the good times ended. During mid-ball, the pin just froze up. I can turn it off and then turn it back on and it is still frozen. It does not reset. It does nothing but light back up with the same play field lights frozen and a blank back box.

I have not started trouble shooting this yet. I thought I would plumb for ideas before I start looking around.

Is it something simple? I don't know yet.

Have I blown a fuse? I don't know.

Has a connector pin gone bad and folded up? I don't know.

Has something gone bad on a board? I don't know.

The pin is equipped with an Alltek MPU, a Bally SDU, and a Bally lamp board. It also has a new Weebly rectifier board.

As I said, it just quit cold. And is frozen.

Any thoughts on where to start looking are appreciated.

I have to leave and spend the day running errands.

This is it. I have GI and a few feature lights. Nothing more.

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#2184 5 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Dead Dragonfist:

Try checking the tension of the fuse clips on the rectifier board. I had a similar issue at a show. Squeeze the clips together with the fuse out, then reinstall.

On 2nd thought, it's probably completely dead. You better sell that paperweight to me

#2185 5 days ago

Check the mpu for the flashes first. Solid light/no light or x number of flashes starts the diagnostic path.

It honestly could be as simple as a blown 5 amp solenoid fuse not getting past the 6th flash

#2186 5 days ago

I had a Nvram.weebly board in my dragonfist with similar behavior, wouldn't get past the second flash. Swapped in altek board and it was back up and running. I haven't bothered to take a look at the nvram board yet.

I do have weird behavior from my upper right drop target bank. If I knock down say just the lowest drop target, but don't clear that bank and then I drain. On the next ball even though the targets all reset if I hit just the top two the bank will act as if though it has been cleared and reset and award me the bonus X for that bank if it is lit. It could be any of the drops in that bank as well not specific to the lowest one, and it doesn't seem to do it all the time either. I have tried different versions of the code, different boards, my switches are well adjusted and I've replace the diodes on all of those switches as well...

I'm guessing I'm just left with connectors at this point but wanted to see if anyone else had a similar experience by chance.

#2187 5 days ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Check the mpu for the flashes first. Solid light/no light or x number of flashes starts the diagnostic path.
It honestly could be as simple as a blown 5 amp solenoid fuse not getting past the 6th flash

Thanks, but I get no flashes. The pin is frozen as shown in the pics.

I’m still running errands. It will be later before I am back home

#2188 5 days ago

Putting this out here, looking for a Dracula playfield for a re-theme, the rougher the better: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/84692

#2189 5 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Thanks, but I get no flashes. The pin is frozen as shown in the pics.
I’m still running errands. It will be later before I am back home

Start by checking the voltages on the rectifier board, specifically 12V unregulated.

Then check TP1 and TP3 on the SDB. Both should be 5V.

Check MPU TP2 (12V) and TP5 (5V). That should be all you need to boot the CPU with flashes.

I would also disconnect the cables from the top of the MPU in case a sound board fault is locking up the MPU.

#2190 5 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Start by checking the voltages on the rectifier board, specifically 12V unregulated.
Then check TP1 and TP3 on the SDB. Both should be 5V.
Check MPU TP2 (12V) and TP5 (5V). That should be all you need to boot the CPU with flashes.
I would also disconnect the cables from the top of the MPU in case a sound board fault is locking up the MPU.

Thanks. This will be tomorrow's new project.

#2191 5 days ago

Just an FYI ...

I’ve had a few issues with LED strobing with the MPU200 lamp boards. Hans’ adapters sort out the majority of them, but there always seems to be the odd one or five (lol) that still flicker. I must also add that Hans’ adapters are minty on the Bally’s and MPU100s, from my experience.

As per a previous post (I think from Hans) I tried some 500 ohm resistors across the lamp, and that would sort out 9/10 of them.

However, some still flickered.

I had some 39 ohm resistors here, tried those and the problem is fixed 100%. I just did 8 flickering inserts in my F2000 with them, and it looks golden.

FYI #2 ... on the F2000, that switch up the middle shot (25k and add bonus) would only award the shot every now and again. The switch seemed fine, I thought maybe that was the rules of the game ... then I noticed that the switch cap had been snipped off and was missing. Add a new cap across the switch .. boom 25k and max bonus all the time.

Little things can make a huge difference.

rd
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#2192 5 days ago

Out of curiosity, what is the voltage on your lamp power buss? Trying to see a correlation between things when the adapters aren’t quite completely working.

#2193 4 days ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Out of curiosity, what is the voltage on your lamp power buss? Trying to see a correlation between things when the adapters aren’t quite completely working.

Yes mpu 200’s are hit and miss. On ali all greatest letters on left shot flicker still. On dragon fist it’s a few around the blue bonus inserts.

I probably have 30 of your adapter sets in my games at this point. Love them.

#2194 4 days ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

On ali all greatest letters on left shot flicker still. On dragon fist it’s a few around the blue bonus inserts.

The "greatest" inserts on Ali are the very first lamps to be refreshed during the zero crossing routine. If on Dragon Fist you're talking about the 1000-8000 blue bonus inserts then same story. The SCRs driving those LEDs will find it most difficult to latch since the DC voltage is at the lowest point in the lamp refresh cycle and the current isn't yet at the right level for the SCR to latch in certain conditions. The types of LEDs used will probably be a factor but lower value resistors may likely be needed on those first lamp outputs in order to draw more current to help the SCRs latch.

#2195 4 days ago

Hey Classic Stern fans, I’m looking into remaking the impossible spinning bumpers for Orbitor 1.

I have created a forum post here and would love feedback!
I truly believe other owners could benefit from this. Please let me know what you think

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-orbitor-1-spinning-bumper-replacement-interest-check#post-5196672

#2196 4 days ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Yes mpu 200’s are hit and miss. On ali all greatest letters on left shot flicker still. On dragon fist it’s a few around the blue bonus inserts.
I probably have 30 of your adapter sets in my games at this point. Love them.

Quoted from Quench:

The "greatest" inserts on Ali are the very first lamps to be refreshed during the zero crossing routine. If on Dragon Fist you're talking about the 1000-8000 blue bonus inserts then same story. The SCRs driving those LEDs will find it most difficult to latch since the DC voltage is at the lowest point in the lamp refresh cycle and the current isn't yet at the right level for the SCR to latch in certain conditions. The types of LEDs used will probably be a factor but lower value resistors may likely be needed on those first lamp outputs.

I currently have some other problems going on with my Dragonfist at the moment, but when it was working, there were no flickering LEDs. I am using a Bally LDA and a set of Hans's adaptor sets are mounted. For the blue and green bonus inserts, I am using 4-SMD units/bulbs from Comet. I am 100% LED in this pin with the exception of 18 yellow feature lights which are still incandescent.

I have done nothing special. How/why did I get lucky and miss this flickering issue?

#2197 4 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I currently have some other problems going on with my Dragonfist at the moment, but when it was working, there were no flickering LEDs. I am using a Bally LDA and a set of Hans's adaptor sets are mounted. For the blue and green bonus inserts, I am using 4-SMD units/bulbs from Comet. I am 100% LED in this pin with the exception of 18 yellow feature lights which are still incandescent.

I have done nothing special. How/why did I get lucky and miss this flickering issue?

As mentioned in my previous post, the blue bonus lamps are the first lamps to be refreshed during the zero crossing service routine - they are the ones most likely to suffer from flickering. Your using 4-SMD LEDs which draw more current than the single/twin SMD LEDs others are using. This results in more current through the SCRs allowing them to better reach latch current hold threshold.
Once you get the game working again it might be interesting to swap some of those blue 4-SMD LEDs particularly at 1k - 4k bonus to low cost non SMDs or single SMD and see what happens.

Your feature lamp voltage maybe a bit higher than others possibly due to the way your transformer is tapped resulting in slightly increased current draw.

You might be lucky that the batch/manufacturer of SCRs on your lamp driver board have lower than normal hold latch current characteristics. Spec for the 2N5060 and MCR106 SCRS state that holding current is 5ma "Max" meaning the worst case SCRs need to see at least 5ma before latching. In other words you might have SCRs capable of latching at lower currents. This is why when some people swap SCRs it fixes their issue.

#2198 4 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

As mentioned in my previous post, the blue bonus lamps are the first lamps to be refreshed during the zero crossing service routine - they are the ones most likely to suffer from flickering. Your using 4-SMD LEDs which draw more current than the single/twin SMD LEDs others are using. This results in more current through the SCRs allowing them to better reach latch current hold threshold.
Once you get the game working again it might be interesting to swap some of those blue 4-SMD LEDs particularly at 1k - 4k bonus to low cost non SMDs or single SMD and see what happens.
Your feature lamp voltage maybe a bit higher than others possibly due to the way your transformer is tapped resulting in slightly increased current draw.
You might be lucky that the batch/manufacturer of SCRs on your lamp driver board have lower than normal hold latch current characteristics. Spec for the 2N5060 and MCR106 SCRS state that holding current is 5ma "Max" meaning the worst case SCRs need to see at least 5ma before latching. In other words you might have SCRs capable of latching at lower currents. This is why when some people swap SCRs it fixes their issue.

Thanks Quench. Electronics is my weak point; My last frontier. I learn something new in all of your posts. When I get Dragonfist up and running I'll swap some LEDs and see what happens.

#2199 4 days ago

Yeah I only use 1snd warm white comets across the board in all my pins GI and inserts.

4 smd inserts seems blinding.

#2200 4 days ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Yeah I only use 1snd warm white comets across the board in all my pins GI and inserts.
4 smd inserts seems blinding.

When I got my Dragonfist, it was loaded up with #47 bulbs. I could barely see the blue and green bonus lights. I use 2-SMDs in my other pins, but the Dragonfist inserts seemed so dark that I went with 4-SMD. They are not too bright at all. I not saying a 2-SMD will not work, but I am very happy with the way the 4-SMDs lit things up.

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