Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
Cheetah
Stern Electronics, 1980
Cosmic Princess
Stern Electronics, 1979
Dracula
Stern Electronics, 1979
Dragonfist
Stern Electronics, 1981
Flight 2000
Stern Electronics, 1980Quoted from cottonm4:I have a power oscillating tool and sanded all of my door parts down to bare metal and hit them immediately with the hammertone paint.
Heeeey I got that tool, always looking for a reason to use it 
Thanks so much!
Quoted from jkashani:Does anyone have a list of the rubber sizes and even placement for a Nine Ball? I would like to make a Titan Rubber database list to buy and to share with others. Thank you in advance.
7A-125
27/64" - Mini-Post - White
3
7A-120-031 / 7A-135
5/16" - Ring - White
10
7A-120-100
1" - Ring - White
2
7A-120-150
1-1/2" - Ring - White
2
7A-120-200
2" - Ring - White
3
7A-120-250
2-1/2" - Ring - White
1
7A-120-300
3" - Ring - White
2
7A-120-350
3-1/2" - Ring - White
1
7A-121 / 7A-121-1
1/2 x 1-1/2" - Standard Flipper - Red
2
A-105
Rebound Rubber
1
7A-122
Shooter Tip
1
Quoted from Classics_Master:Hey guys, just noticed something interesting on my original Quicksilver backglass... I noticed that the “Match” wasn’t lighting up, even though the lamp is good and on.
Is there a possibility the back glass is a repro of some sort or has been restored at some stage in its life and they overlooked it in the process, Just a stab in the dark thought, but a really nice backglass you have there.
Quoted from mappy_mouse:Is there a possibility the back glass is a repro of some sort or has been restored at some stage in its life and they overlooked it in the process, Just a stab in the dark thought, but a really nice backglass you have there.
This back glass looks original as some other originals I have seen here.
AFAIK, BG Resto is the only shop making repro QS back glasses. And BG Resto has a different process and look.
Many thanks
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:7A-125
27/64" - Mini-Post - White
3
7A-120-031 / 7A-135
5/16" - Ring - White
10
7A-120-100
1" - Ring - White
2
7A-120-150
1-1/2" - Ring - White
2
7A-120-200
2" - Ring - White
3
7A-120-250
2-1/2" - Ring - White
1
7A-120-300
3" - Ring - White
2
7A-120-350
3-1/2" - Ring - White
1
7A-121 / 7A-121-1
1/2 x 1-1/2" - Standard Flipper - Red
2
A-105
Rebound Rubber
1
7A-122
Shooter Tip
1
Quoted from mappy_mouse:Is there a possibility the back glass is a repro of some sort or has been restored at some stage in its life and they overlooked it in the process, Just a stab in the dark thought, but a really nice backglass you have there.
Some states couldn't have free credits awarded during a match as it was considered gambling so it might have been modified to conform with a state law and then match turned off in the DIP switches.
Picked up a Dracula in pretty rough condition recently. Looks like i'll need to replace the lockdown bar receiver.
What's the best way to source this part?
I created a Nine Ball rubber kit (minus the rebound rubber) on Titan Rubbers for those so inclined.
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:7A-125
27/64" - Mini-Post - White
3
7A-120-031 / 7A-135
5/16" - Ring - White
10
7A-120-100
1" - Ring - White
2
7A-120-150
1-1/2" - Ring - White
2
7A-120-200
2" - Ring - White
3
7A-120-250
2-1/2" - Ring - White
1
7A-120-300
3" - Ring - White
2
7A-120-350
3-1/2" - Ring - White
1
7A-121 / 7A-121-1
1/2 x 1-1/2" - Standard Flipper - Red
2
A-105
Rebound Rubber
1
7A-122
Shooter Tip
1
Quoted from grandy:Picked up a Dracula in pretty rough condition recently. Looks like i'll need to replace the lockdown bar receiver.
What's the best way to source this part?
Stern made two styles of lockdown bar receiver assemblies. The early ones, like Dracula, may or may not have the ball and socket type of receiver. The later Sterns replaced the ball and socket with a slotted type of receiver.
If you have a slotted type of lockdown bar, you may be in luck.
Stern/Data East used the same style of lockdown bars as found on the classic Sterns form Ali and on. My DE Robocop lockdown bar will fit on all of my Sterns.
If you have the slotted style of lockdown bar this receiver should work OK.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6881-00
This is a DE lock bar that works with that receiver. I don't know if this is wide body or not. Pay attention.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5757-00
Pinball Life also has the slotted receiver.
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-front-molding-lockdown-bar-receiver-assembly.html
If you do have the ball and socket type of lockdown bar and do not wish to change and if you really want a ball and socket receiver, your best way to source this part is put up WTB ads, or watch Ebay. Be caeful with Ebay; Lots of sellers will not know the difference.
Or in general, just get ready to beg.
Quoted from grandy:Picked up a Dracula in pretty rough condition recently. Looks like i'll need to replace the lockdown bar receiver.
What's the best way to source this part?
Try this site and if you don’t see it listed email him.
http://www.jtamusements.com/store/
Hey folks, so I’m still building my Orbitor 1. I’m using an old transformer and rectifier from the M-100 series since I couldn’t find any M-200’s lying around. I’m told it shouldn’t be an issue.
My question is does anyone have an example of how to wire in the inline EMI filter and does it matter which one I get? I just need to finish this to finally do my first boot up and test this Orbitor 1 and see if I’ve actually done it right!
Quoted from cottonm4:Stern made two styles of lockdown bar receiver assemblies. The early ones, like Dracula, may or may not have the ball and socket type of receiver. The later Sterns replaced the ball and socket with a slotted type of receiver.
If you have a slotted type of lockdown bar, you may be in luck.
Stern/Data East used the same style of lockdown bars as found on the classic Sterns form Ali and on. My DE Robocop lockdown bar will fit on all of my Sterns.
If you have the slotted style of lockdown bar this receiver should work OK.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6881-00
This is a DE lock bar that works with that receiver. I don't know if this is wide body or not. Pay attention.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5757-00
Pinball Life also has the slotted receiver.
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-front-molding-lockdown-bar-receiver-assembly.html
If you do have the ball and socket type of lockdown bar and do not wish to change and if you really want a ball and socket receiver, your best way to source this part is put up WTB ads, or watch Ebay. Be caeful with Ebay; Lots of sellers will not know the difference.
Or in general, just get ready to beg.
Quoted from bluespin:Try this site and if you don’t see it listed email him.
http://www.jtamusements.com/store/
Wow this is an awesome help, I’ve been pulling my hair out trying to find a Stern widebody lockdown bar and receiver. Orbitor was their last game so you’re saying a Data East one may work?
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Wow this is an awesome help, I’ve been pulling my hair out trying to find a Stern widebody lockdown bar and receiver. Orbitor was their last game so you’re saying a Data East one may work?
All Sterns from Ali and on used either the narrow body or wide body lockdown bar. Both styles of bars have the same part number for the part that is spot welded to the underside of the lock down bar. So, if you want to get nutty you can lock any Stern wide body bar you have onto a narrow body cab since they both have the common receiver part spotted on.
Both Stern style bars lock onto to my Data East Robocop. And my Robo bar fits all of my narrow body Sterns.
It makes sense. Chicago Coin morphed into Stern Electronics which morphed into Data East.
Gary Stern wisely kept his Stern tooling and passed it to his new DE company.
So I’m guessing real strongly that the DE wide body lock bar will lock down onto your Orbitor.
But is a guess. So if it does not work you are on your own.
Quoted from cottonm4:All Sterns from Ali and on used either the narrow body or wide body lockdown bar. Both styles of bars have the same part number for the part that is spot welded to the underside of the lock down bar. So, if you want to get nutty you can lock any Stern wide body bar you have onto a narrow body cab since they both have the common receiver part spotted on.
Both Stern style bars lock onto to my Data East Robocop. And my Robo bar fits all of my narrow body Sterns.
It makes sense. Chicago Coin morphed into Stern Electronics which morphed into Data East.
Gary Stern wisely kept his Stern tooling and passed it to his new DE company.
So I’m guessing real strongly that the DE wide body lock bar will lock down onto your Orbitor.
But is a guess. So if it does not work you are on your own.
I’m talking about the actual piece that accepts the lockdown bar. The metal part of the cab with the latch is the receiver, yes? The lockdown bar with the tabs beneath it go into the slots on the lockdown bar receiver and you secure that with the lever, or whatever Stern’s had. I need both the bar and the metal receiver that attaches inside the cab above the coindoor
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:I’m talking about the actual piece that accepts the lockdown bar. The metal part of the cab with the latch is the receiver, yes? The lockdown bar with the tabs beneath it go into the slots on the lockdown bar receiver and you secure that with the lever, or whatever Stern’s had. I need both the bar and the metal receiver that attaches inside the cab above the coindoor
I understand. You are wanting the lockdown receiver. It is in the back in this pic. The two Stern bars for narrow and wide both have the same part number for the copper colored bar receiver. The black lockdown bar is the very same as the Stern narrow body with different part numbers.
All 3 of these bars are interchangeable. Other than you are not going to place a narrow body bar on wide body cab.
.
.
.
Call Pinball Life and ask if the 500-5757-00 wide body lockdown bar will fit into the 500-6881-00 receiver. If they say it will fit then your search is over.
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsega-widebody-front-molding-black.html
Screen Shot 2019-08-01 at 5.44.09 PM (resized).png
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-front-molding-lockdown-bar-receiver-assembly.html
Quoted from cottonm4:I understand. You are wanting the lockdown receiver. It is in the back in this pic. The two Stern bars for narrow and wide both have the same part number for the copper colored bar receiver. The black lockdown bar is the very same as the Stern narrow body with different part numbers.
All 3 of these bars are interchangeable. Other than you are not going to place a narrow body bar on wide body cab.
[quoted image]
.
.
.
Call Pinball Life and ask if the 500-5757-00 wide body lockdown bar will fit into the 500-6881-00 receiver. If they say it will fit then your search is over.
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsega-widebody-front-molding-black.html
[quoted image]
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-front-molding-lockdown-bar-receiver-assembly.html
[quoted image]
Craig are you saying that the receiver is the same for both wide and standard cabinets
If that lockdown bar will fit he should buy the receiver from pinball life, and buy the lockdown bar for $70 from jt amuse instead of paying pinball life $99.
http://jtamusements.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_4_23&products_id=17
Quoted from cottonm4:I understand. You are wanting the lockdown receiver. It is in the back in this pic. The two Stern bars for narrow and wide both have the same part number for the copper colored bar receiver. The black lockdown bar is the very same as the Stern narrow body with different part numbers.
All 3 of these bars are interchangeable. Other than you are not going to place a narrow body bar on wide body cab.
[quoted image]
.
.
.
Call Pinball Life and ask if the 500-5757-00 wide body lockdown bar will fit into the 500-6881-00 receiver. If they say it will fit then your search is over.
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsega-widebody-front-molding-black.html
[quoted image]
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-front-molding-lockdown-bar-receiver-assembly.html
[quoted image]
Okay, I appreciate the clarification, and I hope it didn’t seem like I was coming off as condescending! I was trying to be as concise as possible since I wasn’t terribly sure myself if that’s what everyone else calls it. I appreciate the help very very much and I will buy that lockdown receiver from PBL if they verify it fits.
Quoted from bluespin:Craig are you saying that the receiver is the same for both wide and standard cabinets
If that lockdown bar will fit he should buy the receiver from pinball life, and buy the lockdown bar for $70 from jt amuse instead of paying pinball life $99.
http://jtamusements.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_4_23&products_id=17
Yes, the receiver is the same on all Sterns from Ali and all that follow.
My Hot Hand had the slotted bar and receiver, as well. But my Dracula had the ball and socket setup. I don't know when Stern made the change.
The copper bar receiver/locker (I don't know what it is called) has the same Stern 1C-707 for both Stern narrow bodies and wide bodies. Stern did not have the tooling to make a wide body lockdown bar; Instead, two narrow body bars were cut in half (well, not exactly half) and the left and right halves were spot welded to 1C-707 copper unit.
And the JT bar for $30.00 less is same part number as PL unit. Good call.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Okay, I appreciate the clarification, and I hope it didn’t seem like I was coming off as condescending! I was trying to be as concise as possible since I wasn’t terribly sure myself if that’s what everyone else calls it. I appreciate the help very very much and I will buy that lockdown receiver from PBL if they verify it fits.
Don't worry about it. Even sitting across the bench from someone and showing all of the above is confusing when you see it for the first time. I didn't fall of off the turnip truck knowing this stuff. It was a slow process. Some things are just confusing to try and describe accurately and not leave the reader crossed eyes trying to figure out what was being said.
I figured out the receiver part 3 years ago when Game Room Collectables was selling a Data East receiver on Ebay. It looked like it might work so I called GRC and asked if it would fit on a classic Stern. GRC happened to have a Stern on the floor so the guy who answered the phone grabbed the Stern lock down bar and confirmed that there was a match.
And then when I got my DE Robocop I started mixing and matching to see what worked.
What I don't know is if the DE lockdown bar, which is painted black, can be stripped of the black paint and polished to a high shine like the unpainted lockdown bars. I don't know, since the bars are painted, if a cheaper metal was used. I just don't know. You may forever be stuck with black or you will have to spend the big bucks and go for some chrome plating.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:ended up with a superfluous Wild Fyre translite and would be willing to let it go at my cost + shipping
I have never seen or heard of that game before. Pretty cool!
Iron Maiden popped up on ebay. Little pricey with a rather high opening bid but kinda par for the course these days. Looks nice.
Quoted from cottonm4:I am looking at your Ebay auctions. I am looking specifically that your transformer. The Stern MPU-100 pins used a 16B-3 transformer.
All Stern MPU-200 pins used a transformer with the part number of 16B-6. There is a Bally transformer, 122-125 that will work as a replacement for the 16B-6. You list your transformer as an AS-2518-18. This is a Bally part number and I do not know if this transformer puts out the correct power for a Stern MPU-200 game. You were having some problems and I am wondering if this transformer could have been a contributing factor.
I don't know which Bally pins used this transformer. I'll need to do more research. Maybe someone here will know the answers.
Quoted from canoncitypb:This number is not the transformer number. It is the number for the rectifier board that is shared between classic Sterns and Ballys. The transformer didn't have a number other than the 37-8014 on the paper. Other transformers I have seen have a number stamped on the body. This transformer didn't have that number. The voltages worked perfectly. I purchased a new rectifier board (which I have since used in my Stars machine as that board blew) and I used a universal Alltek mpu board from another of my machines. Everything worked on the machine. I got the correct voltages at the transformer and at the rectfier board and at the solenoid driver board (with another replacement), and at the replaced MPU. My issue was I didn't want to pay to replace all of those boards considering the condition of the rest of the machine. The light board had some issues and the sound and speech boards weren't working.
The transformer still has the original wiring and will work well with anyone's Bally or Stern of that era.
Did this get sorted out?? I have a Stern M-100 rectifier and transformer and I’m trying to figure out how to wire a new line cord into it and I don’t know how nor do I see anything on pinwiki about it.
I’ve been told they’re interchangeable between M-100 and M-200 so any help would be appreciated. If they are truly not interchangeable I’d swap my M-100 for anyone’s M-200.
Thanks!
Also do I need to use the EMI filter?
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Did this get sorted out?? I have a Stern M-100 rectifier and transformer and I’m trying to figure out how to wire a new line cord into it and I don’t know how nor do I see anything on pinwiki about it.
I’ve been told they’re interchangeable between M-100 and M-200 so any help would be appreciated. If they are truly not interchangeable I’d swap my M-100 for anyone’s M-200.
Thanks!
Also do I need to use the EMI filter?
I don't know about the rectifier boards. The MPU-100 pins used the 16B-3 transformer. The MPU-200 pins used the 16B-6 Transformer. The Weebly rectifier boards will work with both 100s and 200s.
The line/power cord wires into a varistor located in the cab under the back box. And then the varistor wiring travels to the tllt board on the left side below the left flipper and feeds power to the onboard plug in receptacle. From there, the wiring travels across to the multi-pole on-off switch and then back to the J-2 connector on the rectifier board.
I may have that cabinet wiring harness with the varistor and on-off switch attached. Not sure. I'd have to look around.
I put leds in my inserts on my nine ball, hooked up the altek led driver board and attached the wire from the led board to a control lamp but I still am getting flicker? Compared it to my lightning with leds and I don’t think I I did anything wrong. Anyone have a similar issue? If someone had one that is working with leds can you advise as to where you hooked up the wire from the led board. Thank you
Quoted from jkashani:I put leds in my inserts on my nine ball, hooked up the altek led driver board and attached the wire from the led board to a control lamp but I still am getting flicker? Compared it to my lightning with leds and I don’t think I I did anything wrong. Anyone have a similar issue? If someone had one that is working with leds can you advise as to where you hooked up the wire from the led board. Thank you
Swap the strings...are you sure it's the....fat wire I think?
Fat solid wire and thinner striped per the instructions, that's what I did. If yours is working with LEDs do you mind snapping a pic? Maybe I have a bad board?
Quoted from TheLaw:Swap the strings...are you sure it's the....fat wire I think?
John your 9 Ball sounds like it might be too much of a project for you... it happens, we all get over our heads sometimes. I just want to let you know that I’m here for you 24/7 to take this basket case off of your hands anytime you’re ready
I am sure you would 
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:John your 9 Ball sounds like it might be too much of a project for you... it happens, we all get over our heads sometimes. I just want to let you know that I’m here for you 24/7 to take this basket case off of your hands anytime you’re ready
Check the voltage where you tapped into. Sterns a lot of times have low lamp bus voltage in the back box. I’m guessing you’ll find around 2.5v instead of the needed 5v. May need to look at under-playfield lamps for the better voltage.
Heh... truthfully sounds like a relatively minor roadblock for you... such a killer game and definitely worth putting some love into for sure.
After all the stuff I’m doing to make my 8BD behave I’m more than happy to wait a year or five for you to work out the kinks on your Nine Ball... I want that thing purring like a kitty cat by the time I convince you to sell it to me
Oh and quick alltek LED board question... does it smooth out the insert fading like an led ocd? Or is it solely to make them not flicker?
Quoted from jkashani:Fat solid wire and thinner striped per the instructions, that's what I did. If yours is working with LEDs do you mind snapping a pic? Maybe I have a bad board?
I’ll be back home couple of days. Can get you a pic then.
Quoted from TheLaw:Am I crazy or did I just see a Coin Door disassembly thread for Stern recently? Can someone point me in the right direction?
Thanks.
If you saw this one, then you did indeed see a thread on disassembly/reassembly for a Stern Coin Door.
You could also be crazy too.
The Stern Door starts about half way in. 
Quoted from jkashani:I think I figure it out will keep all posted. I think it just tames the flicker.
Do all of your LEDs flicker or just some? If just some, it could be bad SCRs.
Ali pin now for sale on EBay. One hour left on the auction.
Seller has zero feedback and says it will ship via USPS for $11.20.
If you are the bidder then be careful before you send any money.
I sent this seller an EBay contact telling him he has zero feedback and that his ship terms are ridiculous just so there is a trail for EBay to follow.
Interestingly enough it is not all LED's just the ones in the first bank of inserts numbered 1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 6, 4, 2 and not all of them. It is most noticeable because that is the first row lit. Please excuse my ignorance but what are SCR's?
Video:
Do all of your LEDs flicker or just some? If just some, it could be bad SCRs.
Are all the flickering lamps on the same metal plate? If so, could be a bad voltage input into the plate. Stern seems to have a lot more issues with LED conversions than Bally, and those lamp plates come up a lot in my emails.
Quoted from HHaase:Are all the flickering lamps on the same metal plate?
Appears the 7 & 8 (maybe 3) ball which I believe are diff plates...and 173K. Then throw in a 4 ball.
As great as Sterns are the plates are THE WORST thing in pinball...evar. If I hadn't replaced mine with LED boards I'd rather rip those things out and install sockets.
So, did you go in there and fiddle with them, un solder move the wire to the socket tit and see if they work then? So goddamn finicky.
Quoted from TractorDoc:If you saw this one, then you did indeed see a thread on disassembly/reassembly for a Stern Coin Door.
YES...there it is!
Different plates. Will fiddle with them a bit and will try and swap out led driver board with another and see if it still does it. Worst case scenario I put regular bulbs in the ones flickering.
Quoted from HHaase:Are all the flickering lamps on the same metal plate? If so, could be a bad voltage input into the plate. Stern seems to have a lot more issues with LED conversions than Bally, and those lamp plates come up a lot in my emails.
Quoted from jkashani:Different plates. Will fiddle with them a bit and will try and swap out led driver board with another and see if it still does it. Worst case scenario I put regular bulbs in the ones flickering.
Doesn’t the Alltek board have a switch to choose led or incandescent? Do you have incandescent in some sockets and less in others? Could that be an issue?
Quoted from jkashani:I put leds in my inserts on my nine ball, hooked up the altek led driver board and attached the wire from the led board to a control lamp but I still am getting flicker? Compared it to my lightning with leds and I don’t think I I did anything wrong. Anyone have a similar issue? If someone had one that is working with leds can you advise as to where you hooked up the wire from the led board. Thank you
Question: What MPU are you using? Are you using the original Stern MPU? Or are using an Alltek MPU along with your Alltek Lamp board?
If you are using the Alltek MPU you must move the 2 pin jumpers to two left pins. The boards ship with the Bally configuration of jumpering the 2 right hand pins.
If you are still in Bally configuration you will have flickering issues.
It is an easy item to overlook; ask me how I know.
Better yet, ask the retailer I bought one of my Sterns from how they managed to send me this pinball machine with a new Alltek MPU still up up to Bally settings.
Quoted from bluespin:Doesn’t the Alltek board have a switch to choose led or incandescent? Do you have incandescent in some sockets and less in others? Could that be an issue?
The Alltek lamp board comes with a jumper post and some jumper wire to connect to the controlled lighting the back box.
It is a good question. That jump wire has to be connected to the correct side of the controlled lighting.
The MPU has the two jumpers that control pinball machine behavior. And a side effect of incorrect jumpering can/will cause LED flickering.
Understood, but it is only one row of lamps, the others are fine. Any other suggestions?
Quoted from TheLaw:Don't think the resistors are needed...that's what the alltek board is doing already basically. That's what yo8u can do with a normal board to get them to work.
Nine Ball only has 1 light board.
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