Ok... put back together my dracula.. changed all the fuses, connectors. Looked good. Upon powering on i keep blowing the f2 fuse on the rectifier board. Where would i go from here?

Thanks

Second and thirded. These are needed.

Picked this baby up today. Back glass is near perfect. Had the deal worked out with a buddy for a while but finally got it today.

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Nice! The backglass is always the worst part. I'm waiting for a new one to arrive; I ordered a repro from Coos Hakvoort and it should arrive next week.

I can't grab it, but someone should.

SOLD!

Machine - For Sale

Stern Ali Archived

Used - shows wear, needs some work - “Stern Ali- Nice playfield, backglass is better the most, but does have some paint loss in the corner. Cabinet has checking, but solid. Game works and plays well, could use new con...”

2019-06-30

Gardner, MA

shacklersrevenge

1,500

Archived after: 20 days

Viewed: 502 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Contributed to Pinside

Interested to hear how Coos's backglasses look. He really has some interesting stuff on his site.
His bingo work is amazing...

I’ve actually got a NOS Big Game playfield that I’d be willing to trade for a NOS Cheetah playfield if that would work for anybody out there. I’ve seen Cheetah’s come up a couple times in the last few years so I know they are out there....

Pretty much any MPU 200 game is $1k+ these days. We won't discuss the other part of the equation, though.

I'd be happy to buy one for under $1000, but i've never seen one. I'm not sure that one is worth $1500 with the cabinet in such rough shape, but $150 for stencils and some paint, it could look much better.

It's beautiful! Nice mirroring and great colour rendering. Absolutely no registration lines from misaligned print heads, which is something that other reproducers inexplicably struggle with. Some dithering to be seen up close but that's impossible to avoid with the current process. Nice definition between colours and no mushiness/blending at the edges. There's a little smudging at the transition from mirror to black around the player numbers. It's not a perfect reproduction, but it's certainly a very good one, and captures the original better than any other reproduction currently available.

Unfortunately, FedEx managed to destroy it even through the massive packaging effort that Coos put into it, so I've sent a sad email and I'm waiting to see how he responds. This has not been a very good day.
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Is that made of glass? I would assume so. But it sure is not tempered glass breaking into shards like that.

It is standard pane glass, the same as the original.

Yeah, that is not a good sign. I wouldn't want a plate glass backglass. Hopefully, you get that straightened out with insurance claim.

Are you sure the Stern originals were not made of tempered glass? That just not sound right.

I do have a blown out original Meteor back glass I could take a hammer to verify this.

Don't test it on my account! I'm just making an assumption. Either way, Coos is filing a claim and making me another... so now I'll just have to wait.

BG Resto. I got one. it looks nice.

As you wish. But I know for fact that John Greatwich uses tempered glass for his repro back glasses.

My guess, my assumption is that CPR uses tempered glass for its back glasses, as well.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/meteor-green/

The one you bought looks nice but if it is not tempered glass, I'm out.

Good point. I stand corrected.

Hey guys does anyone have a source/link for the roll over button assembly A-181 parts? maybe they're interchangeable with Williams 70s models?

Missing one from my Stars trying to get back going; thanks!

Which part do you need? The switch? The plastic star insert?

Actually now that I get it all together...I picked what maybe a willimms button but it appears to be very similar other than the round/octagonal bottom shaft (?) ...so I think all I need is the name to this type of washer clip on the end holding the bottom on and I can see if this will work.

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You want some Starlock washers. If you have full service hardware store close by, you might be able to buy 1 or 2. But shop around on Amazon; Prices are all over the place.

https://www.amazon.com/s

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Thanks...never have known the name at all...SHAME!

Ahhh makes sense thanks!

Also known as push nuts

So I’m in discussion with my tech guy trying to solve my issue, but thought I’d also ask the considerable brains trust on here, hoping it’ll speed things up.

I bought a Quicksilver a few weeks back, it didn’t boot up but was in overall decent condition. I sent all the boards off for a check over/repair and I replaced the rectifier board with a new one.

When I bought my QS, the LED on the MPU would stay on with no blinks, no sound, no game start, displays would partly work but not really and most GI and insert lighting was working.

I reinstalled the repaired and “tested ok” boards yesterday. Upon turning it back on for the first time, it shut down my Funhouse which was being played by my son at the time (it’s powered by the same power point). Fuse F6 on the rectifier board was cooked, luckily no damage done to FH. I replaced the fuse and turned QS on again with no success. The LED remained on with no blinks, the displays showed nothing and no sounds other than the occasional noise outburst when turning it on. The fuse went on to blow a couple more times before I gave up. The fuse (besides when I first turned it on) didn’t blow straight away, possibly after a minute or 2 or 5.

I double checked all the wiring and it appears to be good. The rectifier board was partly in kit form. I installed this first with the unrepaired boards and this didn’t blow any fuses.

Some basic research has me thinking the in-line filter may be stuffed, especially given Funhouse copped a mouthful.

Any thoughts on what the issue could be?

I suggest you open a tech support thread in the Early Solid State Tech sub-forum:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/tech-early-80s-solid-state

Post pictures of how your transformer is wired and the three connectors that are plugged onto the rectifier board clearly showing the wire colors/positions.

The inline EMI filter is before fuse F6 so that fuse doesn't protect against a filter fault. A problem with that filter will hopefully trip a fuse in your house fuse box.

Back to working on the kinks on my Stingray. New flipper coil is firing well but after awhile it won't fire - aggressive flipping gets it going sometimes. Sanded the new EOS and played with the cabinet flipper switches a bit. My money is on the cabinet flipper switch.

While I play around I figure new cabinet flipper switches make sense... Does anyone happen to know what part(s) to order?

Thanks for the help!!

I've created these custom apron cards for Trident, and am making them available for $10 per set, including US postage. I print these on a photo printer using OEM ink (no cheap third party) and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then cover in 3 mil clear gloss laminate, and razor cut to size.

Please PM me if interested.

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Question for the expert? Do you know if all the cab are the same...

I want to put a Catacomb in a dracula cab? Do i have to expect any problem?

Other than the play field supports on the side of the cab there is no difference I can see.

You should have no problems.

You may have to swap transformers also. I'm pretty sure Dracula used the 3b version.

new project?

Pas vraiment... un cab redone! I miss you buddy!

Trident, Dracula, Memory Lane, and Hot Hand use the 16B-3 transformer. These are all MPU-100 games. From Ali to Dragonfist, all MPU-200 games the transformer is Stern's 16B-6.

The only difference that I can find is that the F-4 fuse on the rectifier board is rated at 5 amps for the 16B-3 and F-4 fuse is rated at 7 amps on the 16B-6. I don't know why Stern bumped the 16B-6 to 7 amp fuse.

The transformers will interchange. Well, at least you can use a 16B-3 in a MPU-200 pin. We know the rectifier boards are the same. But I don't if there are differences in the MPU and SDU boards that would that would either prevent you, or allow you, to use a 7 amp 16B-6 in an MPU-100 pin. And I also do not know if you could replace a 7 amp fuse on a 16B-6 with a 5 amp fuse.

A Bally 122-125 transformer is a direct crossover for the 16B-3 Stern transformer. They use the same fuses and have the same amperages on all 6 fuses.

It's my understanding that stern upgraded the transformers to be able to drive more than 2 flippers on the playfield. Maybe Quench or KenLayton may be able to chime in on the topic.

That is entirely possible and makes a lot of sense because Big Game and Seawitch (both 4 flipper games) were coming down the line. However, Dracula does have 3 flippers.

Yeah, transformer upgraded for higher solenoid current. You might notice most if not all MPU200 games have stronger flippers compared to the MPU100 games.
Most MPU100 games had 25-500/34-5050 flipper coils while the MPU200 games used 25-475/34-4500. Galaxy even lists 25-450/34-4500
Plus a number of MPU200 games had 4 flippers.

Is this a scratch build from a Catacomb playfield only? If yes, what are you doing for the head lightboard with the bagatelle artwork?

ok beau projet...je suis de jour cette sem, je te call...

Folks
I got a Meteor and a Quicksilver.

When I turn them on both of them boot up ok but hang with a sound playing. Press start starts the game and the sound goes away but I just wondered why this is happening and can I fix it?

For Seawitch and Quicksilver there is a dip switch to turn off the background noise. Meteor probably has it as well. Check your manuals.

Anybody happen to have a working SB-100? The board in my Dracula seems to be shorting out and I can’t find where.

I ended up with a superfluous Wild Fyre translite and would be willing to let it go at my cost + shipping.

Images attached are one with back lighting to show masking affect, second is the back side showing masking layer. Third is what it would look like w/o back lights on.

PM for details.

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Are the ones that barakandl sells through his nvram-weebly business compatible with SB-100 or only SB-300? When you find a working/new board make sure to buy a new wiring harness from nvram-weebly as they are almost always a problem, and cheap to replace.

Im not sure which ones it’s compatible with. I did already get the new harness, was hoping that was it.

After chasing gremlins all afternoon on a project Galaxy I finally got it up and playing correctly. The only issue I have is in attract the score displays don't show the high score to date, it alternates between the last game played score and then shows "2 5 7" instead. Is this normal like when Big Game flashes all 7's on the displays?

Clear the memory of the high score location.