(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,420 posts
  • 203 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 22 minutes ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 102 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 728 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_2346 (resized).JPG
IMG_6154 (resized).JPG
IMG_20191027_184835 (resized).jpg
IMG_2269 (resized).JPG
IMG_2268 (resized).JPG
IMG_2267 (resized).JPG
IMG_2266 (resized).JPG
IMG_2264 (resized).JPG
IMG_2230 (resized).JPG
IMG_2234 (resized).JPG
IMG_2231 (resized).JPG
IMG_2232 (resized).JPG
20191021_162604.jpg
IMG_20191019_134829986 (resized).jpg
Capture (resized).PNG
IMG_20191020_174420 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 2420 posts in this topic. You are on page 33 of 49.
#1601 5 months ago

Newest addition.

20190530_201129 (resized).jpg
#1602 5 months ago

Putting out a challange to all the classic stern lovers.
Let's see if we can get the classic sterns better represented in the top 100.
Please rate your favorite classic sterns and let's see if we can get them moved up the charts.

The ranking updates sunday night so let's see where they land Monday!!!

Also how is seawitch rated higher then quicksilver right now?

#1603 5 months ago

Okay, so hypothetical question here:

What will it take to convert a M-100 game to an M-200 game? Let's pretend I wanted to change my Dracula into a Quicksilver.

Besides the cosmetic stuff (PF, plastics, BG, stencils), what else needs to be redone? If I were to use a weebly mpu, that should take care of the mpu swap. A soundboard SB200 would be needed.

I see previously in this thread that the M100 games us 16B-3 transformer, and the M200 use 16B-6. Anyone know the difference?

What else would need to change (besides a LOT of re-wiring)?

#1604 5 months ago

Anyone happen to have a lockdown bar they would part with?
My project Magic came with out one and my efforts so far to find one have been fruitless.
Please PM me with details.

#1605 5 months ago
Quoted from getadam:

Hey Star Gazer owners - I hate to admit but I will likely overpay for your mint Star Gazer.
Why? I'm an OCD condition freak and will pay too much for minty restorations.
So if you have know of a high end Star Gazer restoration that looks and plays like mint, I'm the guy to pay too much for it.
Please hit me up if you're interested.
Thanks!
Adam

So this post led me to finding and overpaying for a mint Star Gazer. And I'm so happy with the results. I love the game.

Now I'm on the hunt for a Quicksilver. I'm willing to consider any reasonable condition. Hit me up - I'm desperate and will overpay.

#1606 5 months ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Anyone happen to have a lockdown bar they would part with?
My project Magic came with out one and my efforts so far to find one have been fruitless.
Please PM me with details.

Lockdown bars seem to be getting scarce. Data East bars will fit.

#1607 5 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Okay, so hypothetical question here:
What will it take to convert a M-100 game to an M-200 game? Let's pretend I wanted to change my Dracula into a Quicksilver.
Besides the cosmetic stuff (PF, plastics, BG, stencils), what else needs to be redone? If I were to use a weebly mpu, that should take care of the mpu swap. A soundboard SB200 would be needed.
I see previously in this thread that the M100 games us 16B-3 transformer, and the M200 use 16B-6. Anyone know the difference?
What else would need to change (besides a LOT of re-wiring)?

You will need a new lamp board and SDU (Alltek) . You will need a play field harness and displays/back box harness; I believe Third Coast pinball has tooled up for the QS play field harness. He does have the back box harness. Shawn's wire harnesses will be the best money you ever spend.

Weebly has a new sound board, I think.

16B-3 vs. 16B-6 flipper amps from rectifier board is 5 amps on the MPU-100 pins and 7 amps on the MPU-200 pins.

#1608 5 months ago
Quoted from getadam:

So this post led me to finding and overpaying for a mint Star Gazer. And I'm so happy with the results. I love the game.
Now I'm on the hunt for a Quicksilver. I'm willing to consider any reasonable condition. Hit me up - I'm desperate and will overpay.

How about showing us a pic of Star Gazer you snagged.

#1609 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Data East bars will fit.

Good to know thanks!

#1610 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

How about showing us a pic of Star Gazer you snagged.

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_54cd.jpgUNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_54d0.jpgUNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_54cf.jpgUNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_54d1.jpg
#1611 5 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Putting out a challange to all the classic stern lovers.
Let's see if we can get the classic sterns better represented in the top 100.
Please rate your favorite classic sterns and let's see if we can get them moved up the charts.
The ranking updates sunday night so let's see where they land Monday!!!
Also how is seawitch rated higher then quicksilver right now?

I may be in the minority, but there's a reason why Seawitch is ranked higher than Quicksilver. I find Seawitch to be the better and harder game of the two. Quicksilver is wicked fast, but IMHO, it much easier to beat than Seawitch.

Jim

#1612 5 months ago

I’m having an intermittent issue with stars and stingray. When I power up the games sometimes the lights come on but the the game doesn’t boot up. Usually I turn power off, wait a second, and in the second power up they will boot.
Any suggestions? Is this a common issue?

#1613 5 months ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

I’m having an intermittent issue with stars and stingray. When I power up the games sometimes the lights come on but the the game doesn’t boot up. Usually I turn power off, wait a second, and in the second power up they will boot.
Any suggestions? Is this a common issue?

How many flashes is the diagnostic LED on the MPU putting out when the games don't boot? Are they stock MPU boards or aftermarket?

#1614 5 months ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

When I power up the games sometimes the lights come on but the the game doesn’t boot up. Usually I turn power off, wait a second, and in the second power up they will boot.
Any suggestions? Is this a common issue?

I'd try re crimping the connectors that bring the power from the SDB to the mpu.

#1615 5 months ago

This is just an observation. Has anyone else ever noticed that it is very difficult to put up a 2 mil point score on a 7-digit game, but yet it is pretty easy to roll the later 6-digit games?

#1616 5 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

How many flashes is the diagnostic LED on the MPU putting out when the games don't boot? Are they stock MPU boards or aftermarket?

They are both stock MPUs. I’m not sure how many flashes. Ill have to take the glass off and watch until it happens again.

Quoted from Crispin:

I'd try re crimping the connectors that bring the power from the SDB to the mpu.

Thanks, I’ll do that.

#1617 5 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

I may be in the minority, but there's a reason why Seawitch is ranked higher than Quicksilver. I find Seawitch to be the better and harder game of the two. Quicksilver is wicked fast, but IMHO, it much easier to beat than Seawitch.
Jim

I tend to agree. QS is really hot right now, but I prefer Seawitch hands down too.

#1618 5 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

This is just an observation. Has anyone else ever noticed that it is very difficult to put up a 2 mil point score on a 7-digit game, but yet it is pretty easy to roll the later 6-digit games?

What 6-digit games are you rolling?

#1619 5 months ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

I’m having an intermittent issue with stars and stingray. When I power up the games sometimes the lights come on but the the game doesn’t boot up. Usually I turn power off, wait a second, and in the second power up they will boot.
Any suggestions? Is this a common issue?

Had this issue on a Stingray, it was the connectors for me.

#1620 5 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

What 6-digit games are you rolling?

Meteor and Galaxy come to mind immediately.

#1621 5 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

Meteor and Galaxy come to mind immediately.

Set them up harder, nobody has rolled my meteor..... yet.

#1622 5 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

Meteor and Galaxy come to mind immediately.

Quoted from Mitch:

Set them up harder, nobody has rolled my meteor..... yet.

Set them harder for sure. Set Meteor at 7.5 degrees or just under where it feels like Pachinko. Turn the lane guides around on the Galaxy X and Y lanes so there’s more bounce action between the flippers.

Simply making Meteor harder put it in my top 5 classic Sterns.

#1623 5 months ago

My classic sterns front and back legs

15595054992788466338496766040989 (resized).jpg15595055252202082769958872504961 (resized).jpg
#1624 5 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

My classic sterns front and back legs[quoted image][quoted image]

That’s how they should be!

3” leg levelers, in the back, cranked way up is the way to go!

#1625 5 months ago

Will people please stop perpetuating the myth that some random pitch number of 15.946 degrees makes their game mean and hard. Sure maybe the ball is faster rolling back. But it’s slower going up! And you lose all the side to side action so your drains on the outlanes decrease. It also makes the game easy to trap balls. There is a good medium and not enough pitch makes a game play like dog doo.

#1626 5 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

My classic sterns front and back legs[quoted image][quoted image]

Go buy some 31” legs from PBR.

#1627 5 months ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

That’s how they should be!
3” leg levelers, in the back, cranked way up is the way to go!

Quoted from cottonm4:

Go buy some 31” legs from PBR.

Yes go with 31” legs. 3” levelers all the way up will not be enough for Meteor.

#1628 5 months ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Will people please stop perpetuating the myth that some random pitch number of 15.946 degrees makes their game mean and hard. Sure maybe the ball is faster rolling back. But it’s slower going up! And you lose all the side to side action so your drains on the outlanes decrease. It also makes the game easy to trap balls. There is a good medium and not enough pitch makes a game play like dog doo.

Going up slower is BS rebuild your flippers. As for it being harder it definitely is. I host league nights here with alot of really good players and nobody has rolled my meteor and everyone says how well it plays.

If your ever at replay fx the biggest and best tournament take a look at how they set up their leg levelers.

#1629 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Go buy some 31” legs from PBR.

That's going overboard. Not needed.

#1630 5 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

3” levelers all the way up will not be enough for Meteor.

Yes it is.

#1631 5 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Going up slower is BS rebuild your flippers. As for it being harder it definitely is. I host league nights here with alot of really good players and nobody has rolled my meteor and everyone says how well it plays.
If your ever at replay fx the biggest and best tournament take a look at how they set up their leg levelers.

I tech for ReplayFx. I run a location with 50 games. My games play perfectly. Yeah my meteor can be rolled on occasion. That doesn’t mean it plays bad.

#1632 5 months ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Will people please stop perpetuating the myth that some random pitch number of 15.946 degrees makes their game mean and hard. Sure maybe the ball is faster rolling back. But it’s slower going up! And you lose all the side to side action so your drains on the outlanes decrease. It also makes the game easy to trap balls. There is a good medium and not enough pitch makes a game play like dog doo.

I would agree with this on most games except Meteor. The playfield design has no side to side action and the single pop bumper provides no real benefit at any angle. If I didn’t tell you the angle on mine you’d just think it’s fast and that’s it.

On the other hand, people have told me to jack my Quicksilver up to 6.5 degrees. I tried that, but found the best play was when the slope was between 5.5 and 6 degrees.

I also tried Xenon at 7 degrees to make it harder, but found it too hard to make it up the ramp and the pop bumper action was not as good. 6-6.5 made it much better.

I have put a lot of science into where I set playfield slope.

#1633 5 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

That's going overboard. Not needed.

Makes your game more stable not wobbling on the extended levelers.

#1634 5 months ago

Take the outlane posts out of meteor to increase difficulty.

I prefer my classics with the back legs jacked all the way up and front all the way down. Like pictured above. All mine are like that. Haven’t had any complaints.

#1635 5 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Makes your game more stable not wobbling on the extended levelers.

If you tighten the nuts on the levelers tight against the bottom of the legs it takes most of the wobble out.

#1636 5 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

I would agree with this on most games except Meteor. The playfield design has no side to side action and the single pop bumper provides no real benefit at any angle. If I didn’t tell you the angle on mine you’d just think it’s fast and that’s it.
On the other hand, people have told me to jack my Quicksilver up to 6.5 degrees. I tried that, but found the best play was when the slope was between 5.5 and 6 degrees.
I also tried Xenon at 7 degrees to make it harder, but found it too hard to make it up the ramp and the pop bumper action was not as good. 6-6.5 made it much better.
I have put a lot of science into where I set playfield slope.

Xenon proves the ball is slower. Too hard to go up the ramp. More pitch equals slowing down a rising ball.

My meteors somewhere around 6.5 and it is plenty fast. Sensitive slings give plenty of side to side action. No rubber posts on the outlanes. Center post rubber is in because pulling a Kirk post is blasphemy.

#1637 5 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

That's going overboard. Not needed.

You can do it as you are doing, which works. I got some 31" legs at a swap meet for real cheap. I don't know if I would pay retail for new 31" legs if I had others laying around. but if you really want to jack it up put on some 31s and adjust the levelers up and you will really be steep.

Here are the front and rear legs on my Big Game. The rears are 31". My opinion is that the 31" rears are a little more stable than a 3/8" bolt supporting all of the weight. This was just a tad too steep so I had to raise the fronts 2-3 turns to adjust.

This setup is great on Big Game. However, I recently placeed some 31s on my Seawitch. My jury is still out; I'm not sure I like my Seawitch up this high in the back.

IMG_1163 (resized).JPG
IMG_1164 (resized).JPG

#1638 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You will need a new lamp board and SDU (Alltek) . You will need a play field harness and displays/back box harness; I believe Third Coast pinball has tooled up for the QS play field harness. He does have the back box harness. Shawn's wire harnesses will be the best money you ever spend.
Weebly has a new sound board, I think.
16B-3 vs. 16B-6 flipper amps from rectifier board is 5 amps on the MPU-100 pins and 7 amps on the MPU-200 pins.

Oh year, one more item you will need that is not on your Dracula. Quicksilver uses one 3-place drop target assembly. It also uses a 4-place drop target assembly. AFAIK, QS is the only classic Stern to use a 4 -place drop assembly. I could be wrong, but I think you will have to get creative.

#1639 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

AFAIK, QS is the only classic Stern to use a 4 -place drop assembly.

Seawitch

#1640 5 months ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Xenon proves the ball is slower. Too hard to go up the ramp. More pitch equals slowing down a rising ball.

This is true. Another example is the top lock on Firepower. I rebuilt my flippers with all new parts and new coils too. At 5.8 degrees I had a 75% success rate. At 5.9 degrees it dropped to 50% and 6.0 degrees it dropped to about 10%. No perceivable decrease in ball speed or flipper power, but the results didn’t lie.

Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

My meteors somewhere around 6.5 and it is plenty fast. Sensitive slings give plenty of side to side action. No rubber posts on the outlanes. Center post rubber is in because pulling a Kirk post is blasphemy.

Each game has its “sweet spot”. Meteor just happens to be one of those games that you can jack way up with no detrimental effects on gameplay.

#1641 5 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

This is true. Another example is the top lock on Firepower. I rebuilt my flippers with all new parts and new coils too. At 5.8 degrees I had a 75% success rate. At 5.9 degrees it dropped to 50% and 6.0 degrees it dropped to about 10%. No perceivable decrease in ball speed or flipper power, but the results didn’t lie.

Firepower absolutely needs the newer Williams flipper mechs. Makes the game WAY better.

#1642 5 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Firepower absolutely needs the newer Williams flipper mechs. Makes the game WAY better.

True! I did an experiment with Williams Flash...
I was able to boost the power to the old flipper mechanisms by doing the "Game Plan thing".
I have yet to try it on a Firepower... I did however add extra red voltage wiring to the playfield
to a Firepower many years ago.

#1643 5 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I did however add extra red voltage wiring to the playfield
to a Firepower many years ago.

I need to do that. WPC mechs didn’t help much over Sys6 mechs, so I added WPC coils and a 50v transformer. No missing the lock now.

#1644 5 months ago

Yeah, WPC mechs on the late 6 games, and into 7, don't give you much change other than a replaceable coil stop and smoother return spring. Otherwise they're mechanically the same. Though doing the thorough rebuild does get you a lot better playing machine.

The older style mech, system 3-4, and early 6, without the unified plate? Those see a big difference with the upgrade as it takes out a lot of slop.

-Hans

#1645 5 months ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Yeah, WPC mechs on the late 6 games, and into 7, don't give you much change other than a replaceable coil stop and smoother return spring. Otherwise they're mechanically the same.

True.
But Black Knight rebuilt with 1988's style flipper mechs are much better and more powerful than the 1st
generation style flippers...
All of Williams games in the early 1980's had 2" leg levelers not 3" as people have put on their games as today.

#1646 5 months ago

Can we please get this thread back to classic sterns?
This is not the place to discuss upgrading William's flippers.

10
#1647 5 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Can we please get this thread back to classic sterns?
This is not the place to discuss upgrading William's flippers.

After collecting Sterns for several years now, finally was able to acquire the one on the top of of my list.

58043103068__4C06FBB8-B80F-40E8-9BFF-3F5DBA86D28C (resized).JPG
#1648 5 months ago

It's beautiful!

#1649 5 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Set them up harder, nobody has rolled my meteor..... yet.

Quoted from dothedoo:

Set them harder for sure. Set Meteor at 7.5 degrees or just under where it feels like Pachinko. Turn the lane guides around on the Galaxy X and Y lanes so there’s more bounce action between the flippers.
Simply making Meteor harder put it in my top 5 classic Sterns.

Meteor is set up hard. 3-ball and jacked as high as the back will go. I don't regularly roll it, but I can more so than putting up something over 2 mil on F2K or SW.

Galaxy is gone now. I didn't like the game. The bonus count is just stupid on it. Should increment by 1K not 10K or whatever it is.

#1650 5 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Yes go with 31” legs. 3” levelers all the way up will not be enough for Meteor.

That is too drastic. You don't want a game playing like a vertical arcade game where you flick the ball into the field of pins.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 22.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
From: $ 155.00
From: $ 15.00
There are 2420 posts in this topic. You are on page 33 of 49.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside