Looking for a seawitch apron that's in better shape than my current one.
If anyone has parted out a playfield and has a spare, please let me know.

The decals available for restoring one are way off on the dark blue.

Thank!

You got that right. The blue is not even close.

I am looking at your Ebay auctions. I am looking specifically that your transformer. The Stern MPU-100 pins used a 16B-3 transformer.

All Stern MPU-200 pins used a transformer with the part number of 16B-6. There is a Bally transformer, 122-125 that will work as a replacement for the 16B-6. You list your transformer as an AS-2518-18. This is a Bally part number and I do not know if this transformer puts out the correct power for a Stern MPU-200 game. You were having some problems and I am wondering if this transformer could have been a contributing factor.

I don't know which Bally pins used this transformer. I'll need to do more research. Maybe someone here will know the answers.

This number is not the transformer number. It is the number for the rectifier board that is shared between classic Sterns and Ballys. The transformer didn't have a number other than the 37-8014 on the paper. Other transformers I have seen have a number stamped on the body. This transformer didn't have that number. The voltages worked perfectly. I purchased a new rectifier board (which I have since used in my Stars machine as that board blew) and I used a universal Alltek mpu board from another of my machines. Everything worked on the machine. I got the correct voltages at the transformer and at the rectfier board and at the solenoid driver board (with another replacement), and at the replaced MPU. My issue was I didn't want to pay to replace all of those boards considering the condition of the rest of the machine. The light board had some issues and the sound and speech boards weren't working.

The transformer still has the original wiring and will work well with anyone's Bally or Stern of that era.

Ok, any recommendations to fix drop targets issues?

Long story short, I got Seawitch all nicely cleaned, waxed, etc... And in my third game I snapped a target in half. That's fine, I probably should replace them anyway with fresh new ones.

So - I did that, and now some of the targets aren't resetting properly. They will all pop up, but some don't always hang on the ledge. I swear the mech is back together exactly as found and the springs looked to be in ok shape when I checked it.

Is it springs? Is the mech not tight enough? Is it a slight difference between original and PBR remade targets? Any tips on how to fight this?

I stand corrected. Not seeing the transformer number confused me.

I have that problem once in awhile. I does not happen enough that I worry about it. It happens both with original targets and the PBR replacements. New springs did not seem to make a difference but it won't hurt to try them.

My original targets on my QS stick some times. Is it better just to replace them?

I ran into issues while bench testing drop target units for Meteor and Flight 2000. Noticed that the lip that some of the targets rested on had a slight rough edge. Used a small needle file to lightly clean up the rough part and they all cleanly drop. They seem to work better than any other ones now.

Check the surface of the metal on the back of the target bank (the side that faces the back of the targets). If it is oxidized, as most are, you need to smooth the surface or it acts like sandpaper and inhibits the movement of the targets.

This has nothing to do with repro targets. With the exception of a few warped batches, most repro targets available today are a near exact match. This is usually an installation problem.

I've gone through a lot of these games and the most common reason for this, at least in my experience, is how the target mechanism gets re-installed. There is usually a bit of play at the mounting holes. If the mech housing sits too far back, the targets end up being very close to the rubber rings behind them. In F2K this can definitely be an issue.

What ends up happening on a really hard direct shot is that the target will actually push back, hit the rubber and recoil forward again so fast that it never actually releases. It needs to go back far enough so that the small retaining lip on the target front can let go and allow the target to drop. Often, in this case, softer shots will work better because they don't cause this fast bounce-back effect. Hopefully that makes sense.Try loosening the screws on the mech a little and just force the entire mech forward before you tighten it up again.

Using oversized rubber behind the targets can also cause this same issue. The rubber should be taught and well stretched.. making it thinner. This can be difficult with some classic sterns. They sometimes call for rings with 1/4" increments that are no longer available. So, instead of a 2-1/4" ring, most people install 2-1/2" (for example). The resulting 'fatter' rubber can interfere with the targets ability to move back far enough.

On repro playfield swaps, this tiny adjustment can be even more of a pain to deal with. If the dimples for the mounting screws are not in the exact correct spot, the mech placement can be way off. Too far forward or backward, or even not centered left to right is very common. Pay close attention.

One other thing I always do with new targets is to take a small round rasp/file and clean out the hole at the bottom where the retaining pin holds it to the metal arm. New targets can be a tight fit. By running the rasp around the inside of that hole for a few seconds, I remove a lot of friction and the target move much more freely...just like the originals.

Hopefully that helps.

Repro targets are more flexible and when hit hard they just bend, hit the backside and do not drop. My fix is to mod them to be a little more rigid but not too much or they will break

I've run into this on other games. Some of the rubber rings included in kits are thicker than they should be. In some cases it may not mater but for things like behind drops and in narrow places where a ball has to travel it does. I'm not sure when these thicker rings started appearing in kits but those don't seem to match the ones I've pulled out of games.

This is just because plastic becomes less flexible with age... or more brittle. In 30 years, the repro target would be stiff too.

Having issue with Star Gazer.

About half the times when I drain the ball just passes through to the shooter lane again. It is not counting bonus or advancing the ball.

The switch looks fine. And it does know the ball is there since it's kicking it out. It's just that the software doesn't seem to know since no bonus count and no ball advance.

Ideas?

Got to put a few games on Cheetah and Dragonfist at Ann Arbor. Loved both of them, but confirmed that I really, really, want a Cheetah. Haha

I played Dragonfist for a while yesterday. Hadn’t really known about it. I thought it played really well and the art package was great. Also love the Stern Meteor!

Picked up Nine Ball from the awesome WARLOCK in Allentown this weekend. (Great seller!)

It was working great at the show but since we got it home having a crazy issue. The game is kicking a ball into the shooter lane every 9 seconds!

Check out this video. You'll see I'm not touching the game at all except to remove a ball to make room for the ball kicks.

Here's the thing - we really don't think it's a switch issue. We've carefully gone over every switch. The switch test comes back clean with the flashing zero. And after that I've tried banging on the playfield to see if any switches register - but no, switches are good.

It doesn't eject during attract mode, only during game play. And yes, it's consistently every 9 seconds. It will even try to eject when there's no balls in trough. Like during the 3-ball multiball, I can still hear the ball release solenoid firing.

Did you take the head off for transport? If so, you probably have either a connector in the wrong spot, or a connector in the right spot but off by 1 pin. You said switches test ok, but are you sure the switch in the shooter lane is registering properly with a ball(not a finger)?

Yup, but have triple checked the connecters. (and this is the only problem we're experiencing.)

Yes, the switch in the shooter lane registers with a ball but regardless, the coil keeps firing every 9 seconds regardless if there's a ball in shooter lane or not.

Any other ideas?

Double check the switches on the left side at the saucer. Make sure they are open. Especially the saucer switch

Where did you get this stuff?

I think I know someone who would like your Split Second glass if you're looking to sell any of it.

Mayfair has them.

Shooter lane switch. When ball release fires of the shooter lane switch isn’t triggered it will try again....and again...

Check the switch in switch test and make sure a ball in the shooter lane actually closes the switch. Nineball trough, shooter lane and lock switches have to be exactly precise and dialed in or you’ll have all sorts of issues. The game is a chore for me to keep on location and in my tournaments for sure.

-Jim

Nine Ball is notorious for trough and ball lock switch issues. If the switches got misaligned at all, the game gets really confused. Even a slight change in the pitch of the machine can have an effect.

Really appreciate the help @lotr_breath @cottonm4 @whridlsoncestood @drano - Nine Ball is fixed. It was indeed the shooter lane switch and it wouldn't close.

Now, since we're on a roll maybe you guys have a suggestion on my Star Gazer. About half the times when I drain the ball just passes through to the shooter lane again. It is not counting bonus or advancing the ball.

The switch looks fine. And it does know the ball is there since it's kicking it out. It's just that the software doesn't seem to know since no bonus count and no ball advance.

Ideas?

I've had a similar issue on my Quicksilver but it happens very infrequently. In my case, I think the ball is actually coming down so fast that it's not being kicked into the shooter lane so much as it's being deflected through the ball trough and back into the shooter lane. Could just require a bend in the trough.

If the ball is actually sitting in the trough and you hear the machine kicking out with no bonus... that sounds like a software issue.
Have you tried a factory re-set? Or maybe new ROMs?

I think the yellow border around the letters look better, but will be going with the original for my first cab restencil

I'm restoring my Stern Stars and have a question. I found the decal shown in the photo to restore my apron, but the shooter gage didn't have a decal included. Any suggestion on what to do to make that part of the apron? Maybe take a scan and print on a transparent film? What is everyone doing with apron restorations?

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I just mask and repaint mine. Generally more custom than original. That should be a easy part to do from scratch and make it match the apron.

Thanks. If there’s not way to make it original, I’ll just have to do that. It is an option.

The decals for the shooter lane are available from pinball rescue with the aprons usually
http://www.pinballrescue.net/Decals_Apron_Stern.html
May be able to order individually via email contact

Awesome! Thanks Jodannar! Just what I was needing!

I used a set of their Gottlieb apron decals, very nice!

Were they pretty good with shipping and getting them to you in a couple of weeks or so?

I have had good luck with getting parts from them. Three different times. All good.

Cool, thank you. Glad to be able to get this.

Question on instruction/pricing cards. For early Sterns like Nine Ball and Star Gazer, what was considered the "correct" placement for the instruction and pricing cards? I've seen the instruction card on the left on some games and on the right on other games. Was it just up to the operator to choose?

What size/thickness piano wire is needed to make new lane guides for Seawitch and Nine Ball?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-WS-090

This is what I used for stargazer. Should work the same. Measure what you have with calipers to confirm.

Perfect, thanks!!!!

Anyone interested in some NOS classic Stern slingshot arms? $10 ea + S/H. These are just the kicker arms. It doesn't include the plunger, link, pivot axis (mount to PF), or spring. PM me if interested.

Jim

These are all spoken for.

Thanks,

Jim

Just finished cabinet job on Seawitch.... I bought this as a nasty pile of parts at the York show last fall..... now she's just waiting for me to finish the PF clear coat job.....

Also moved some Sterns into my back wall & broke up my Bally monopoly there in my game room....

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