Someone could have repainted them in another life.

I have a power oscillating tool and sanded all of my door parts down to bare metal and hit them immediately with the hammertone paint. You could probably use paint stripper and then hand sand. THe hammertone paint is very forgiving so you don't have to be too fussy with your sandpaper. 60 grit sandpaper will cut the paint good and leave a good paintable surface.

https://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multi-tool-62279.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products|All+Products|62279&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=sKE0GgBvZ|pcrid|327822404853|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|62279|&pgrid=71439424048&ptaid=pla-296227499965&pcid=1688396772&intent=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-5yVqNfS4wIVBNbACh0zTgdJEAQYAyABEgLApPD_BwE

https://www.harborfreight.com/60-grit-multi-tool-triangle-sandpaper-6-pc-for-wood-61315.html

(You can get some of these tile sanding tools at HF, as well. But Amazon has better pics.).

https://www.amazon.com/XXGO-Universal-Semicircle-Triangular-Oscillating/dp/B06XW84KW1/ref=sr_1_4

This back glass looks original as some other originals I have seen here.

AFAIK, BG Resto is the only shop making repro QS back glasses. And BG Resto has a different process and look.

Stern made two styles of lockdown bar receiver assemblies. The early ones, like Dracula, may or may not have the ball and socket type of receiver. The later Sterns replaced the ball and socket with a slotted type of receiver.

If you have a slotted type of lockdown bar, you may be in luck.

Stern/Data East used the same style of lockdown bars as found on the classic Sterns form Ali and on. My DE Robocop lockdown bar will fit on all of my Sterns.

If you have the slotted style of lockdown bar this receiver should work OK.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6881-00

This is a DE lock bar that works with that receiver. I don't know if this is wide body or not. Pay attention.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5757-00

Pinball Life also has the slotted receiver.

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-front-molding-lockdown-bar-receiver-assembly.html

If you do have the ball and socket type of lockdown bar and do not wish to change and if you really want a ball and socket receiver, your best way to source this part is put up WTB ads, or watch Ebay. Be caeful with Ebay; Lots of sellers will not know the difference.

Or in general, just get ready to beg.

All Sterns from Ali and on used either the narrow body or wide body lockdown bar. Both styles of bars have the same part number for the part that is spot welded to the underside of the lock down bar. So, if you want to get nutty you can lock any Stern wide body bar you have onto a narrow body cab since they both have the common receiver part spotted on.

Both Stern style bars lock onto to my Data East Robocop. And my Robo bar fits all of my narrow body Sterns.

It makes sense. Chicago Coin morphed into Stern Electronics which morphed into Data East.

Gary Stern wisely kept his Stern tooling and passed it to his new DE company.

So I’m guessing real strongly that the DE wide body lock bar will lock down onto your Orbitor.

But is a guess. So if it does not work you are on your own.

I understand. You are wanting the lockdown receiver. It is in the back in this pic. The two Stern bars for narrow and wide both have the same part number for the copper colored bar receiver. The black lockdown bar is the very same as the Stern narrow body with different part numbers.

All 3 of these bars are interchangeable. Other than you are not going to place a narrow body bar on wide body cab.

IMG_1628 (resized).JPG

.
.
.

Call Pinball Life and ask if the 500-5757-00 wide body lockdown bar will fit into the 500-6881-00 receiver. If they say it will fit then your search is over.

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsega-widebody-front-molding-black.html

Screen Shot 2019-08-01 at 5.44.09 PM (resized).png

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-front-molding-lockdown-bar-receiver-assembly.html

Screen Shot 2019-08-01 at 5.30.47 PM (resized).png

Yes, the receiver is the same on all Sterns from Ali and all that follow.

My Hot Hand had the slotted bar and receiver, as well. But my Dracula had the ball and socket setup. I don't know when Stern made the change.

The copper bar receiver/locker (I don't know what it is called) has the same Stern 1C-707 for both Stern narrow bodies and wide bodies. Stern did not have the tooling to make a wide body lockdown bar; Instead, two narrow body bars were cut in half (well, not exactly half) and the left and right halves were spot welded to 1C-707 copper unit.

And the JT bar for $30.00 less is same part number as PL unit. Good call.

Don't worry about it. Even sitting across the bench from someone and showing all of the above is confusing when you see it for the first time. I didn't fall of off the turnip truck knowing this stuff. It was a slow process. Some things are just confusing to try and describe accurately and not leave the reader crossed eyes trying to figure out what was being said.

I figured out the receiver part 3 years ago when Game Room Collectables was selling a Data East receiver on Ebay. It looked like it might work so I called GRC and asked if it would fit on a classic Stern. GRC happened to have a Stern on the floor so the guy who answered the phone grabbed the Stern lock down bar and confirmed that there was a match.

And then when I got my DE Robocop I started mixing and matching to see what worked.

What I don't know is if the DE lockdown bar, which is painted black, can be stripped of the black paint and polished to a high shine like the unpainted lockdown bars. I don't know, since the bars are painted, if a cheaper metal was used. I just don't know. You may forever be stuck with black or you will have to spend the big bucks and go for some chrome plating.

I don't know about the rectifier boards. The MPU-100 pins used the 16B-3 transformer. The MPU-200 pins used the 16B-6 Transformer. The Weebly rectifier boards will work with both 100s and 200s.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1055-nvramweeblycom/01123--new-bally-stern-rectifier-board-as-2518-18-ta-100

The line/power cord wires into a varistor located in the cab under the back box. And then the varistor wiring travels to the tllt board on the left side below the left flipper and feeds power to the onboard plug in receptacle. From there, the wiring travels across to the multi-pole on-off switch and then back to the J-2 connector on the rectifier board.

I may have that cabinet wiring harness with the varistor and on-off switch attached. Not sure. I'd have to look around.

I’ll be back home couple of days. Can get you a pic then.

Ali pin now for sale on EBay. One hour left on the auction.

Seller has zero feedback and says it will ship via USPS for $11.20.

If you are the bidder then be careful before you send any money.

I sent this seller an EBay contact telling him he has zero feedback and that his ship terms are ridiculous just so there is a trail for EBay to follow.

Question: What MPU are you using? Are you using the original Stern MPU? Or are using an Alltek MPU along with your Alltek Lamp board?

If you are using the Alltek MPU you must move the 2 pin jumpers to two left pins. The boards ship with the Bally configuration of jumpering the 2 right hand pins.

If you are still in Bally configuration you will have flickering issues.

It is an easy item to overlook; ask me how I know.

Better yet, ask the retailer I bought one of my Sterns from how they managed to send me this pinball machine with a new Alltek MPU still up up to Bally settings.

The Alltek lamp board comes with a jumper post and some jumper wire to connect to the controlled lighting the back box.

It is a good question. That jump wire has to be connected to the correct side of the controlled lighting.

The MPU has the two jumpers that control pinball machine behavior. And a side effect of incorrect jumpering can/will cause LED flickering.

Ok, you did not say that you installed the 555 lamp boards from pinball replacement parts so I assume you still have original factory metal plates with the #44 bulb sockets in your Nine Ball.

Those metal plates get to be a pain with lousy connections. Could some of your sockets be corroding at those metal plates and be the problem?

If you have not installed a set of these I highly recommend you consider them.

https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-nine-ball-complete-set-of-boards-to-replace-metal-panel-sockets

If you do buy these boards you will also need to buy the black twist in sockets.

My Dracula cabinet, my Hot Hand cabinet, and my Meteor cabinet all have the the sunken doors. I don't know about Magic which was the last MPU-100 Stern produced.

I agree with vec-tor that this was a carry over from Chicago Coin cabinets. Eliminating the the sunken door design was about cutting unnecessary production costs. A sunken door will not make a pin play any better and nobody at the bar would notice, anyway

I do not completely understand. Pinball Life sells DE lockdown bars. And they don't have any receivers to fit the DE bars they sell? I'm glad you scored yourself a Big Game--Orbitor 1 lockdown bar. And none of the receivers they had will fit?

On the left is my Nine Ball bar receiver. One the right in my Data East Robocop bar receiver. They are the same.

BTW, From Ali and on, Stern produced two lockdown bars. One bar is for the narrow body pins such as Seawitch, Quicksilver, etc. And there is the wide body lockdown bar for Big Game, Cheetah, Freefall, and I feel safe in saying Orbitor 1 will use the same lockdown bar.

Pinball Life is selling DE widebody lock bars and narrow body bars. I would think that one of the receivers Pinball Life sells would fit the DE bars that are selling. But who knows?

Screen Shot 2019-08-13 at 4.19.40 PM (resized).png IMG_1726 (resized).JPG

This is my Nine Ball lockdown bar mounted to DE Robocop.

IMG_1728 (resized).JPG

This is my DE Robocop lockdown bar mounted to Nine Ball.
IMG_1729 (resized).JPG

This is my Big Game lockdown bar mounted to Robocop.

IMG_1731 (resized).JPGIMG_1732 (resized).JPG

These all cross fit.

I have been reading those threads related to play fields rippling along with the paint pulling away from the play field.

My unqualified opinion is the rippling is caused by rushing the play fields into production before the clear has had enough time to fully cure.

The play field i cleared needed several months to obtain a complete cure.

I don’t know about the chipping that was being discussed in those threads but some pictures showed clear that was very thick with too many coats applied.

My thoughts are if you buy a Quicksilver play field and let it cure for a few months you probably will not have any issues.

I could be wrong, but if you can not make indent in the clear with your fingernail you should be OK.

Polyurethane is scratch resistant. Not scratch proof. It is still a fairly new play field. Let it cure for a few months, if you can. Plus, all of that dark green is going to make it a little difficult to hide everything.

You will have to live with black but it will fit.

https://www.pinballlife.com/sternsegadata-east-black-front-molding-lockdown-bar-no-tournament-button-hole.html

Coil Stops and plungers are about the only items that can wear out. Plungers take a lot of impact; They are going to mushroom at the tip and my opinion is that the shaft diameter can get larger by teeny tiny amounts, too. They are not the hardest of metals. Coil stops also take a lot of impact. You can file them down but it changes flipper travel.

It sounds like you have been playing your Seawitch a lot.

That blue does not look bad. I am a bling type guy but that blue ain't looking bad at all.

I went with the shorter posts on one of my Sterns. I have not had any issues at all.

This tube from Marco looks like it might work. YOu would have to call and get the dimensions to be sure.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8298

That is not a Stern receiver. The locking lever looks like Gottlieb wedge head to me.

Don't move your drops. You don't have that much room; Too far back and they might not drop at all.

Get 4 of the shorter posts ( there is room for the shorter posts) ; get a piece of .020 poly/Lexan and make a deflector plate that kicks out about 1.5 to 2 inches.

It is almost like your flipper is too strong.

I don’t get air balls in my Seawitch. I get/got air balls on my Robocop and made a deflector as I described for you.

And then I got an aftermarket flipper board for Robo and it has less flipper power and the air balls went away.

So, which flipper is giving you air balls?

Mine has the short posts and the plastic rests directly on the orbit guide to keep light leaks from happening. The top of the plastic at the upper left flipper measures 7/8" below the edge of the cabinet and 1 1/4" below the top of the stainless cabinet rail. The taller posts are probably why you don't have the ball landing on top of the plastic. Do you have light leaks around your plastic?

The stiffener will have no effect on how the play field sits in the cabinet. It sits inside the play field support "Z" brackets.

No. When the short posts are used, the plastic sits down right on top of the orbit guide. Both the left upper flipper plastic and the arch plastic sit at the same level and block most light from leaking through. With this setup you are going to have issues with the ball climbing over the top of the upper leff flipper. Long posts would solved the ball problem but your plastics will not be on the same level.

IMG_1822 (resized).JPG

Let's make sure we are not talking past each other.

You are talking about this support rail, correct?

IMG_1821 (resized).JPG

If I am correct and we are talking about the same stiffener rail, it sits inside of the the "Z" brackets/play field support brackets and will not alter how the play field sits inside the cab.

If you have something different than this, what is your setup?

IMG_1816 (resized).JPG

IMG_1819 (resized).JPG

So what? Relax. I was not trying to turn this into a competition. Just offering my opinion, which agrees with yours, that the taller posts probably prevent the ball from rolling on top of the plastic.

I do not understand what you are speaking of? What wood rail in the back? Which Stern cabinet are you looking at?

Yes, I have those wood rails to prop the play field up against the back box. But those wood rails have no determination with how the play field sits in the the cab in playing position.

From Meteor and all classic Sterns that followed, the play fields are all supported with four "Z" brackets. One Z bracket in each corner. Those brackets are all at the same height. You can shove a Meteor play field into a Dragonfist cabinet and it is going to sit the same (unless the factory made a screw up---which would not surprise me).

This is Nine Ball. Left hand side. Two Z brackets support the play field. The right hand side is a mirror image.

But you got me to checking some things. My Nine Ball and Dragonfist both sit 1/8" lower from the top edge of the cabinet than my Seawitch does. So, I'm thinking I could lower the "Z" brackets in my Seawitch by 1/8" and any balls that fly up on top of the plastic would now have enough clearance to just roll off. The Beatles pin, with its higher, more slanted play field glass has balls that fly backwards over that flipper but with the glass so much higher than Seawitch, the ball just rolls off.

It does not help Chalky's air ball problems but I'm thinking I may lower my Witch play field 1/8" to counter the ball wedging between the plastic and the glass.

IMG_1838 (resized).JPG

The Bally will not fit the Stern receiver.

The tabs measure 17 inches fr0m 0utside edge t0 0utside edge,

They are 1 inch wide,

They are 1 5/16" deep

The smaii cut is ,070 deep and measures ,180 wide and is ,40 i0ng

[My keyb0ard has g0ne 0n the fritz, S0 Ihave s0me crappy puntuati0n and iettering, ),

Repiacment keyb0ard has been b0ught and has shipped

IMG_1839 (resized).JPG

IMG_1841 (resized).JPGIMG_1857 (resized).JPG

What I can't figure 0ut is why it c0sts s0 much t0 ship between the US and Australia and Canada but yet when I buy s0me cheap item fr0m Ebay and it ships in fr0m China the shipping is super cheap,

Replacement keyboard has been ordered last week. Supposed to ship tomorrow.

From Meteor to Orbitor = 18
(Cue is not counted)

From Pinball to Magic = 12

(Cosmic Princess is counted)

Total = 30.

So, 27 (without counting the 3 EMs.)

I believe Cosmic Princess is in Australia only for a few more than 100 units.

This is a site I stumbled onto 3-4 years ago. I assumed it has every Stern Electronics pin from 1977 to 1982 listed with a small play field pic.

http://members.iinet.net.au/~lantra9jp1_nbn/gurudumps/Pinball_Manuals/stern.html

Find the ball guide hole on the bottom side of the play field. Seal it with some tape--any kind of tape.

Get the ball guide out of your way.

Protect your play field from glue drips.

Get some thin bodied medium setting super glue.

Start filling the guide hole with super glue. Fill to almost the top. Let it sit for 24 hours.

Get the proper size drill bit and drill out the excess glue.

Reinstall your guide.

Dead Dragonfist:

I have been having some spirited sessions with Dragonfist for the last few days. This morning, the good times ended. During mid-ball, the pin just froze up. I can turn it off and then turn it back on and it is still frozen. It does not reset. It does nothing but light back up with the same play field lights frozen and a blank back box.

I have not started trouble shooting this yet. I thought I would plumb for ideas before I start looking around.

Is it something simple? I don't know yet.

Have I blown a fuse? I don't know.

Has a connector pin gone bad and folded up? I don't know.

Has something gone bad on a board? I don't know.

The pin is equipped with an Alltek MPU, a Bally SDU, and a Bally lamp board. It also has a new Weebly rectifier board.

As I said, it just quit cold. And is frozen.

Any thoughts on where to start looking are appreciated.

I have to leave and spend the day running errands.

This is it. I have GI and a few feature lights. Nothing more.

IMG_1877 (resized).JPG

Thanks, but I get no flashes. The pin is frozen as shown in the pics.

I’m still running errands. It will be later before I am back home

Thanks. This will be tomorrow's new project.

I currently have some other problems going on with my Dragonfist at the moment, but when it was working, there were no flickering LEDs. I am using a Bally LDA and a set of Hans's adaptor sets are mounted. For the blue and green bonus inserts, I am using 4-SMD units/bulbs from Comet. I am 100% LED in this pin with the exception of 18 yellow feature lights which are still incandescent.

I have done nothing special. How/why did I get lucky and miss this flickering issue?

Thanks Quench. Electronics is my weak point; My last frontier. I learn something new in all of your posts. When I get Dragonfist up and running I'll swap some LEDs and see what happens.

When I got my Dragonfist, it was loaded up with #47 bulbs. I could barely see the blue and green bonus lights. I use 2-SMDs in my other pins, but the Dragonfist inserts seemed so dark that I went with 4-SMD. They are not too bright at all. I not saying a 2-SMD will not work, but I am very happy with the way the 4-SMDs lit things up.

Finally got to Dragonfist this morning.

It was a blown fuse on the rectifier baord. A 4amp fuse on F3. It is working fine now. But my big question is why did the fuse blow in the first place?

Is there something I need to be worrying about? Just what caused the fuse to blow? Or does this get filed in the "shit happens" file and I move on along like nothing happened?

Thanks all for offering suggestions.

I would say it blew violently. There is quite a gap between blown electrode?/wire.

I have the original Stern displays installed.

Screen Shot 2019-09-13 at 1.26.23 PM (resized).png

It was a fuse that was supplied with the Weebly rectifier board.

I had played quite a few games over several weeks before it blew.

At least it did blow. So I will keep playing. I’ll start studying the prints and track the circuits and try to figure it out.

Someone is selling a Lightning back glass on CL.

dayton.craigslist.org link

Glad it all worked out for you.

Please do us all a favor and contact Terry with the non-debatable information you now have.

Pinball Life shows both the narrow and wide body lock down bars. Only one receiver is shown.

Since Data East just Gary Stern riding with a new name I’m betting the same economic manufacturing practices that drove Stern carried over to DE.

What worked for Stern was still good. Why reinvent the wheel?

I’m betting the wide DE bar will fit. It just will be painted black and not shiny stainless.

It is strange. All Terry has to do is walk out to his inventory, pull one wide body lock bar, one narrow body lock bar, and the one style of receiver that he has in stock and verify the info you passed back to him.

I have reread the Pinball Life link and the DE wide body lock bar is/was made by cutting up 2 standard lock bars and spot welding then to the part that mates to the receiver. This is the exact same way the Stern wide body bars were made. There is no way DE went to expense to conjure up some new fangled way to attach a wide body lock bar.

If Terry won't make a move after you showed him the way, then there is no point in me contacting him.

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsega-widebody-front-molding-black.html

Screen Shot 2019-09-23 at 8.57.42 PM (resized).png

What his site does say is that there are LIMITED QUANTITIES of both the primo wide body bar and the 2nd rate wide body bar. So, if you have a Stern wide body pin and need a lockdown bar you might want to add to your inventory. You can always get it chrome plated or powder coated in Silver. You might wait around and get lucky and find an old original Stern wide body lockdown bar but that string has been getting pulled pretty hard of late. They are getting hard to find and the prices are going up.

I stand corrected. So, if I have this right, you can take a Stern Flight 2000 wide body lock bar and latch it down to a DE wide body. It will be a little long on the ends but can be attached?

But to try and latch a DE wide body bar to a Flight 2000 can not work because the DE wide body is narrower?

So, if you wish to have a new play field glass custom cut for your Stern wide body you cannot use the same play field glass on the DE wide body; The DE will also have to have a glass custom cut to yet another different size.

I assumed that Stern and DE wide body cabinets were the same size. Talk about mistaken assumptions.

I stand corrected. Thanks.

That is just vagaries between cabinets. They were not built with a high degree of precision. Same for lock down bars. You can probably get a small hammer and do some tapping on the ends of the Seawitch bar and knock them out just a little bit to fit the Dragonfist cab.

There has to be a story on this. It does not look like a beater. Speak!

So that's it? It sort of fell into your lap? No endless miles of highway hypnosis? No thrill of the chase? No getting bent over on the price?

I have one so I do not covet yours But I am jealous with the way some can just rub the Genie bottle and like magic a desired pin just sort of appears

If I could only be like that. I blew up the environment and tore up several highways chasing all of mine.

Last week it was a Nine Ball cabinet. Today, it is a Quicksilver cabinet.

Stern threw these cabs together using a lot of staple guns. The first order of business was to buttress the landing for the throat and back box ( on one of my cabs, this landing rocks back and forth and the only thing keeping the back box from falling over is the stainless rails.

IMG_2031 (resized).JPG

Attachment blocks were anchored to the cab.

IMG_2035 (resized).JPG

And the entire landing assembly is screwed down to the anchor blocks. It will go nowhere unless I decide to unscrew it sometime in the future. All of the screws (that I did not show) will be hidden underneath the throat. Unseen. ( Another added benefit with this setup is when you have one of those large T-nuts fall out like what happened on my Seawitch. I have it held with a piece of tape right now. But I am going to do this cabinet mod to the Witch cab and fix that T-nut properly.

IMG_2038 (resized).JPG

We got a new floor.

IMG_2037 (resized).JPG

IMG_2040 (resized).JPG

IMG_2063 (resized).JPG

Two extra wedge braces were added to the back side of each cross-board. These are there to keep the floor from sagging and opening hiding spaces for dropped nuts and bolts.

IMG_2069 (resized).JPG

The cradle strips for the coin door were removed and lots of sanding with a vibrator sander cleaned away 35 years worth of spilled drinks. The corner wedge braces were cracked and coming unglued so replacements were made and installed. The factory used staples: I use screws. Not original but I don't care. The screws can always be removed and staples added if someone is so inclined.

IMG_2064 (resized).JPG

First coat of silver has been applied.

IMG_2070 (resized).JPG

IMG_2072 (resized).JPG

I'm going to grab a phrase from Jesse Pinkman (Breaking Bad). Pinball Pimps stencils are The Bomb !

IMG_2079 (resized).JPG
IMG_2081 (resized).JPG

IMG_2087 (resized).JPG

IMG_2089 (resized).JPG
IMG_2093 (resized).JPG
===========================
The paint may be a little over the top, but I went with automotive paint. The silver is a color from a Subaru. The black is a Honda metallic black.

I laid down several coats of clear this afternoon. It will need to cure for a couple of weeks, then I'll color sand it and buff it out. In these pics you can also see the outriggers I added for the slider buttons. This way if a slider button gets trashed, the cab is not destroyed from being slid on the floor.

IMG_2097 (resized).JPG
IMG_2098 (resized).JPG

IMG_2100 (resized).JPG
IMG_2099 (resized).JPG

I'll have to sign you to secrecy. Up close and personal you will se all of the flaws and boo boos

There is a small chance I can have both Star Gazer and Quicksilver done in time for TPF 2020. But if I have to choose, which one should I try to complete first ? I can only transport one pin.

EDIT: Wrong post.

I love those plastic bases. You can wire up with a Molex connector, remove the pop assembly and make perfect adjustments at the kitchen table and then reinstall.

I think I will direct you to asking Ed at G-P-E. I have been using the small molex connectors and pins without issues. But I have not given any consideration to how they are rated ampere wise.

Major bummer.

You might be able to drill into the screw and use an EZ out, but I think those screws are pretty hard. I would not waste my time trying.

You are probably going to need a Dremel Tool with a cutoff wheel and slice into the flipper shaft above the pawl. Or you might be able to use the cutoff wheel to whittle the flipper bat off. Either way you are looking at buying a new bat and possibly/probably a new pawl from Pinball Life.

Actually, the small rivet piece you are holding in your hand looks like one of the rivets to hold the receiver and the slider bar together. Your lockdown bar handle comes fastened with a machine screw and nut from the factory.

IMG_2232 (resized).JPG

You will need a couple of washer spacers.

IMG_2231 (resized).JPG

IMG_2234 (resized).JPG

Since it looks like you don't have the proper spacer washer with a shoulder, I would suggest drilling the hole in the receiver to a larger size to match the hole in the handle. Get a machine screw, some washers and a nylon locking nut so you can adjust tension and it all should work fine.

IMG_2230 (resized).JPG

You have a nice looking Seawitch. I would like to offer a correction. Your back glass was reproduced by John Greatwich and not CPR as your ad states. CPR makes Seawitch plastics, but not the back glass, as far as I can tell.

What is this nail for? What purpose for this?

IMG_2264 (resized).JPG

I just noticed that all of my Stern cabs have this short nail hammered into the cab just to the left of the coin door.

Catacomb

IMG_2266 (resized).JPG

Nine Ball...and the NB cab I have converted to a Quicksilver had one as well.

IMG_2267 (resized).JPG

Seawitch

IMG_2268 (resized).JPG

Dragonfist. The nail is gone but the hole is still there.

IMG_2269 (resized).JPG

Meteor has a nail as well. Not pictured

You will need to remove the screws that are currently holding the saucer into position. Make new marks carefully on where you want the kicker to shoot to and drill new holes. You should consider and may even have to fill the old holes with dowel rod and clean them up.

OK. I guess the plastic piece that is there is nailed in. But I was talking in terms of the entire mech assembly, which I would think is screwed in, needs to be rotated at little bit. And you would have have to pulls the nails and rotate the plastic pice to match.

There are 2 jumpers in the upper left hand corner of the Alltek MPU. There are 3 jumper pins for each jumper connector. For Bally, the jumper needs to be on the 2 right most pins. For Sterns, the jumper needs to be on the two left most pins. It is in the instructions. This is for all MPU-200 pins.

I won't say this is your problem or even if it will cure your problem if you need to swap your jumpers, but they do need to be on the left hand pair of pins

The one classic Stern I bought from a retailer was supposed to have been play tested before it was shipped to me. When I received that pin it played like pure shit. I don't know how any same person could have said it was playing well. It had an Alltek MPU installed. I looked and the retailer missed swapping those two jumpers over to the left, but he still shipped me something he said played well. So, if you missed the jumpers, you are not the only one who has---even the "pros" missed it.

What is a beehive?

I'd sample a 3D printed one. It is just a button and a dual diameter shaft. Sort of off-white bone color. Do you need a specimen for modeling purpose?

How did this happen? Short story: I added credits on my Big Game. The upper limit for credits is supposed to be 40. When I had zero credits, I hit the credit button and wound up with 99 credits on the display.

I'm not complaining but this is not supposed to happen.

Any ideas?

I am using the Stern MPU-200 board.

IMG_2346 (resized).JPG

I don't know what version of software are loaded on the ROMs. I don't know how to check. I was having board problems and installed an Alltek MPU. This is the first time I have played this pin with the Stern MPU.

The longer story: I installed my Big Game ROMs into an MPU-200 board that had been to the repair shop. With all of the dip switches set, I credited up 14 games and played them. At zero credits, I dropped a quarter and only 9 credits loaded and the credit microswitch locked up and would not let me add more credits. I burned all 9 credits and went to zero credits but still could not add more credits.

I turned the pin off and back on. And when I attempted to add credits, I was blessed with 99 credits showing. Everything is working fine.

I'll try and clear the audits but I am enjoying the warp to 99 credits instead of just 40 credits.

They are not the originals. I sent some boards to a guy who said he could work on boards, only he couldn't. But he did add some new Big Game ROMs to my MPU-200. This was in 2016.

I have a tip for you.

On the back plate of the assembly there is a screw plate that the 3 target switches attach to with 2 screws. While apart, screw that plate into position and tape it down with couple of strips of duct tape. Make sure the tape will not interfere with any other parts. This will make things a whole lot easier to attach the target switches that screw plate taped into position.

The above is for if you still have the switches soldered onto the wiring.

I am not ignoring you. It is just that I have to work off 99 credits down to 00 to see what happens.

I am down to 43 credits showing

Tricky Stern is right.

I am in the slow process ( I just love spending money) of installing molex connectors for the switches and coils for the drop targets. That way, you just unplug the DT assembly at the molex and undo the four screws that hold the DTs to the play field.

You should consider spraying on some clear Krylon or Rustoleum. The shiny will start dulling out and looking white if you don't. It does not take much paint. You are not painting a custom car. You can slop it on.

Good point. You have given me something to think on.

I worked off the last of the credits and here is what I see.

The credit digit(s) shows double zero when in attract mode. I also have zeros running across the displays while in attract mode.

I also turned the pin off and then back on after these pics were taken. And all is back to normal with 40 credits being the maximum number of credits allowed.

IMG_2429 (resized).JPG

IMG_2433 (resized).JPG

What is HSTD? They are factory displays. And how do I reset?

Thanks.

On Ali, pin 1 is connector red wire. You should have a blocking key in pin location #4 from the left; Jam a toothpick in there if you don't have a key.

That is an aftermarket rectifier board.

Thank you both. I finally learned how to do this stuff with the white buttons on the coin door. I cleared everything and the displays are showing what they need to show.

Same here. I wish I had bought the larger tumbler. It cost more but the convenience of larger capacity and flexibility would have been worth the extra money.

EDIT: I should have kept my mouth shut. Right after I wrote the above, I turned on my tumbler for another round and 10 minutes later it died. I can turn it on and hear the motor humming. It sounds like a shorted armature. (sigh). It is a Berryman tumbler I got from Steve at PBR about 3 years ago. I have used it a lot, but still...

Now I get to go buy that larger tumbler.

These are nice. Eventually, I am going to need some of these.

The originals are a light gray color. Will your gray ones match the original gray? And why is the gray color much pricier than the other colors? You have different types of plastic being used. Can we know why?

Thank you. You say they are not a perfect reproduction. Considering that so little of the rod and ring are visible, I think as long as they are durable and do the job that absolute perfection is not needed.

I think it is fantastic that they can be produced.

Yes.

http://pinballrescue.net/Decals_Apron_Stern.html

Galaxy is not high up on the "want to have" list, but I have read on pinside that with some mods that Galaxy can be a fun player. I don't know what the mods are, though. I have played it at TPF. It can be fun to play.