(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

7 months ago



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There are 1473 posts in this topic. You are on page 27 of 30.
#1301 38 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Just picked up a big game today another classic stern to the collection.

Pics please.

#1302 38 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Just picked up a big game today another classic stern to the collection.

The best classic stern. Congrats!

#1303 38 days ago
Quoted from Classic_Stern:

For those buying new parts please do not throw out your old parts. ...

I think I tossed out my drop targets on my meteor.... after realizing what a stupid mistake that was I'm starting to keep all the used (useable) parts in a plastic bag in the cabinet.

Saw a post you had a while back about the classic stern rebuild kits causing a bounce or something.... maybe I read it wrong. Kind of wanted to install the old linkage to see if I could tell the difference.

#1304 37 days ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

Agreed. It sounds like someone installed WMS or DE / Sega / Stern bats. If so, it would probably be best to hacksaw the bat shafts, and replace the bats and cranks with new. Can you post some pics of the bats, top and bottom.

This is a picture of the current flipper bats, top and bottom. On this machine, all three flippers look the same. I also attached a picture of the replacement flipper(s)I got that was reported to be appropriate for this era of stern game. The replacement flipper post certainly looks shorter than what's in the game now, with that notch at the end, which I assume is ment to correlate with the hex screws.

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#1305 37 days ago

Get a dremel with a cutting wheel or a hacksaw blade and cut the flipper bar shaft between the bushing and the crank to remove it.

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#1306 37 days ago

Anyone know how to remove the white start button off the coin door? Its not a standard c-clip

#1307 37 days ago

Maybe I'm not tracking what you're saying but a new flipper mech will have more bounce because it doesnt have the slop in it the old linkage will from decades of use. That being the case what you think of as feeling right is just being used to playing with worn out mechs.

#1308 37 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Maybe I'm not tracking what you're saying but a new flipper mech will have more bounce because it doesnt have the slop in it the old linkage will from decades of use. That being the case what you think of as feeling right is just being used to playing with worn out mechs.

yeah in my experience, even if you rebuild with new bakelite linkages, you are going to get that bounce when the flipper comes to rest. It annoys me for sure, but rather have that than a mech that doesn't move smoothly.

#1309 37 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Maybe I'm not tracking what you're saying but a new flipper mech will have more bounce because it doesnt have the slop in it the old linkage will from decades of use. That being the case what you think of as feeling right is just being used to playing with worn out mechs.

What he's saying, is the old linkage material never wears out... I can attest that the old ones I swapped out were perfect, so I put them back in after.

#1310 37 days ago

The bakelite definitely eggs out both around both the roll pin and the pawl over time.

#1311 37 days ago

Of course it does!!!

Always replace the linkage, coil stop, and coil sleeve on a WIlliams EM. They were pretty crappy when new but 45 years have done them no favors. And it's like a 10 minute and $10 job.

On a stern those plastic linkages seem much sturdier. But at least do the sleeve and stop.

#1312 37 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

The bakelite definitely eggs out both around both the roll pin and the pawl over time.

Stern doesn't use Bakelite

#1313 37 days ago

No? What's it made of?

#1314 37 days ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

This is a picture of the current flipper bats, top and bottom. On this machine, all three flippers look the same. I also attached a picture of the replacement flipper(s)I got that was reported to be appropriate for this era of stern game. The replacement flipper post certainly looks shorter than what's in the game now, with that notch at the end, which I assume is ment to correlate with the hex screws.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

did you get these
https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-stern-shoe-and-shaft-flipper-bat-assembly-1977-1980.html

I had something similar in my game for some reason, with the super long shafts. Those type 1 flipper bats are the correct ones for meteor. They are a lot smaller. ….. That's if you kept the original type 1 brackets in there.

#1315 37 days ago

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#1316 37 days ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Stern doesn't use Bakelite

The old style mechs had bakelite links. The later mechs used plastic.

#1317 36 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

The old style mechs had bakelite links. The later mechs used plastic.

There ya have it. The Bakelite links definitely will wear out while the plastic usually doesn't.

#1318 36 days ago

I have had a beautiful stars machine for awhile now and it is one of my top two favorites. I've owned a big game and a Meteor in the past. I just sold Meteor and picked up a rough Flight 2000. Looks like a fun challenging game.

I am working on the electronics, but looking ahead.....

I need new lane guides and/or plastics. the guide that brings the ball to the flippers on either side was replaced by a crudely cut piece of plastic. Were they originally two levels with metal underneath plastic? Does anyone know where I can find a pair of these?

#1319 36 days ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

I need new lane guides and/or plastics

CPR makes a set.

#1320 36 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

CPR makes a set.

what is underneath them?

#1321 36 days ago

I think it's just the plastics

#1322 36 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

I think it's just the plastics

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/flight-2000/

You can buy just the art work pieces. OR you can but the art work plus the clear plastics.

#1323 36 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You can buy just the art work pieces. OR you can but the art work plus the clear plastics.

Okay, now I see. It has the upper and lower level plastics. The lower is clear and the ball contacts, the upper has the artwork.

Does anyone have any extras they are willing to sell? I'd prefer not to have to buy a complete set. Yellowing or cracks okay.

thanks,

#1324 36 days ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

Okay, now I see. It has the upper and lower level plastics. The lower is clear and the ball contacts, the upper has the artwork.
Does anyone have any extras they are willing to sell? I'd prefer not to have to buy a complete set. Yellowing or cracks okay.
thanks,

You can buy some .030" polycarbonate and trace your upper plastics and use those traces and cut your own clears if you have some tools. You would need a band saw or a jig saw for this job, though.

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#1325 36 days ago

If anyone wants to send me scans of the upper or lower of these f2k plastics I can cut you some petg ones for cheap

#1326 35 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You can buy some .030" polycarbonate and trace your upper plastics

the problem is I don't have the upper or lower plastics, so I don't know the shape. Someone tried to replace them, but clearly they are misshaped. I would rather do it correctly if I could get a tracing or a scan.

Is anyone able to do this for me?

Thanks.

#1327 35 days ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

Okay, now I see. It has the upper and lower level plastics. The lower is clear and the ball contacts, the upper has the artwork.
Does anyone have any extras they are willing to sell? I'd prefer not to have to buy a complete set. Yellowing or cracks okay.
thanks,

Which plastics are you looking for? I have an incomplete used set in ok shape not the big ones up top left but most everything else.

#1328 35 days ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Which plastics are you looking for?

I need the bottom plastics that lead to the flippers. They are long and thin and curved. If you have an upper layer and a lower layer, I could use both. I need both sides.

#1329 35 days ago

Managing the wiring when you have to removed the head to move a classic Stern:

Maybe it is all readily apparent to the rest of you but sometimes I have to be hit over the head before I figure something out. So, on to the chase.

You have to remove the head/backbox on your classic Stern to get it loaded in your vehicle.

There are 3 separate wire harnesses inside. If the factory tags are still on your harnesses, you will see a tag labeled "cabinet", "inserts", and "play field".

The cabinet wiring consists of flippers, a connector to the coin door wiring, the tilt bob assembly and electrical service outlet and the connections to the wall power cable.

The play field wiring is self-explanatory.

The inserts wiring is the displays wiring. This will be the wiring harness where you will make your big mistake if you do make a mistake. With my first Stern, I removed all of the wiring from the displays board in the back box and dropped it all inside the cabinet. That worked. It was effective but it was a colossal waste of time. Some people got around this wiring problem by blindly cutting all the wiring at the back box. I'm sure you all have seen some of those pics on pinside.

Here is the easy way to prep your Stern's wiring for transport ( as I noted earlier, most of you probably figured it out on your own so this is for any other idiot like I was). The other end of your inserts harness is the J-3 connector at the rectifier board. If you disconnect your J-3 connector and roll this inserts harness up into the cab you will immediately be able to see what connectors you need to disconnect and which ones you can leave alone.

Here is the inserts harness rolled up. You can see that 20-pin J-3 connector staring at you. You can also see the 4-pin connector that hooks up to the speaker.

IMG_0276 (resized).JPG

Here is the same harness laying in the left hand corner of the cab. All of the play field harness is poking up from the cab over on the right.

The inserts harness connects to two connector pins on the MPU, one connector pin on the lamp driver board, one connector (hard to see) on the sound board, and two connectors on the SDU.

Knowing what not to disconnect will make your transport job very much easier. I hope somebody gets value from this.

IMG_0278 (resized).JPG

#1330 35 days ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

I need the bottom plastics that lead to the flippers. They are long and thin and curved. If you have an upper layer and a lower layer, I could use both. I need both sides.

There's a lower layer?

#1331 35 days ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

There's a lower layer?

I don't own this title but I think he is referring to upper layer is screened art, and lower layer is clear. It's like that on my Spectrum, and on other games like EBD.

#1332 35 days ago

I'm pretty sure on my flight 2k there is no lower layer of plastic for the inlanes.

the repro set I bought didn't have these either.

What I'm trying to say is I have an extra set of inlane plastics but no lower plastics to go with it. WHich I don't think exists.

#1333 35 days ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

I'm pretty sure on my flight 2k there is no lower layer of plastic for the inlanes.
the repro set I bought didn't have these either.
What I'm trying to say is I have an extra set of inlane plastics but no lower plastics to go with it. WHich I don't think exists.

You are correct. There are no lowers at the inlanes. One artwork piece only for each side.

#1334 35 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Maybe I'm not tracking what you're saying but a new flipper mech will have more bounce because it doesnt have the slop in it the old linkage will from decades of use. That being the case what you think of as feeling right is just being used to playing with worn out mechs.

Yea, I play with worn out materials on my games. Thanks I did not realize that. LMAO!!!

#1335 35 days ago

Picked up a stern Dracula. Wow the sounds suck. The game is fun though

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#1336 35 days ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

What I'm trying to say is I have an extra set of inlane plastics but no lower plastics to go with it. WHich I don't think exists.

those plastics would be great. PM me with how much you want.

Thanks,

#1337 35 days ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Anyone know how to remove the white start button off the coin door? Its not a standard c-clip

You pry that starlock washer off. Some times you will be able to save it. Sometimes it gets wasted during removal. So you will need an assortment. It looks like the only sizes you can buy are metrics. You probably should mic your button diameter before you destroy it. OTOH, I pried off 2 to repaint coin doors and they went back on OK.

ebay.com link
.
.
.

amazon.com link »

#1338 35 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You pry that starlock washer off. Some times you will be able to save it. Sometimes it gets wasted during removal. So you will need an assortment. It looks like the only sizes you can buy are metrics. You probably should mic your button diameter before you destroy it. OTOH, I pried off 2 to repaint coin doors and they went back on OK.
ebay.com link
.
.
.
amazon.com link »

Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

#1339 31 days ago

Finally getting my sterns set up on legs. Many are projects but it's a start. Some cab repairs needed to be done.

Will have to slide them all down one as I have a catacomb coming too

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#1340 31 days ago

What is it with you Canadians
and Classic Sterns!?!
They fall out of the sky up there so it seems.

#1341 31 days ago

I do think a Stern Lightning would fit your collection well

Quoted from Mitch:

Finally getting my sterns set up on legs. Many are projects but it's a start. Some cab repairs needed to be done.
Will have to slide them all down one as I have a catacomb coming too[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#1342 30 days ago

TPF score of the day

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#1343 30 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

TPF score of the day
[quoted image]

nice grab i need some of those.

#1344 30 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

TPF score of the day
[quoted image]

Awesome!

#1345 30 days ago
Quoted from rollitover:

What is it with you Canadians
and Classic Sterns!?!
They fall out of the sky up there so it seems.

Many of them are purchased in the us and brought over the border

#1346 30 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

TPF score of the day
[quoted image]

I saw those and the guy wouldn’t take less than $30. He also had NOS beehive shooter housings that he wanted (I kid you not) $30 each.
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#1347 30 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

I saw those and the guy wouldn’t take less than $30. He also had NOS beehive shooter housings that he wanted (I kid you not) $30 each.
[quoted image]

Was that $30.00 each pop or 30 for the pair?

#1348 30 days ago

Got the two sets for $20 and a third spare ring Included

#1349 30 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Got the two sets for $20 and a third spare ring Included

That is what you call a score ! I’m jealous.

#1350 30 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

TPF score of the day

What are these? are they the plastic pop rings? Anyone know why they are plastic? is this better? I can't figure out what they are sitting in...

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