Wow !! An Ali sold on Ebay for $4,075.00 + $1,500.00 shipping.

Total: $5,575.00

I did not know Ali's were in that kind of demand.

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The forward piece of sheet metal that is the forward part of the chute rides on top of forked trough guide. It looks like I will need to remove material from forward piece to allow for shimming the fork. Am I reading you correctly?

I don't think you need to cut anything. When I had the issue on my Big Game I slipped a washer under the top fork and screwed it back down. It bent itself into the correct position not allowing a flat spot for the ball to come to rest on. I'll grab a pick later tonite.

Repin MPU J4 if you haven't already, unless it's happening during a game. If it happens during the game, there could be a shorted diode in the switch matrix somewhere.

Well, it’s hard to find that title in good condition... just like all Sterns these days. I sold a nice one last year for a price I could not turn down, then immediately bought another broken one two weeks later. Crazy thing is that is sat on Craigslist for a month and no one bought it.

I don’t think the game is worth anywhere close to what that one sold, but I could say exactly the same about Seawitch or Catacomb.

Some non pinhead probably bought it because they’re a fan of Muhammad Ali. Someone on the east coast had a beautiful Ali st the York show last year and couldn’t sell it for $2,000. It’s probably the same seller and he got lucky on EBay

I have a stern stars set to 50 cent play. The coin mechs don't count together, you have to put both coins in the same mech. Is there a good way to overcome this like putting a jumper between the wires so both sides coin up, or is it better to have one coin signal for both sides or something?

I was playing my Galaxy last night and solenoids would fire at random while playing. Is this because of the diodes? I swapped the boards with all Alltek and it did not fix the problem.

Ali is selling like the old Bally KISS pins.

Is there anyone who sells new complete harnesses for Big Game? Have one that's hacked up around the MPU and power sections.

it's only happening during gameplay which leads me to think, it due to vibration. I read on pin wiki, that coils can produce RF and possibly give you phantom switch hits.

I replaced all the diodes on the slam tilts and all the caps on applicable switches were replaced as well. (I haven't seen the issue come back yet, but its so rare). The game is going on location so I try to get issues like this ironed out beforehand, if it was home use I probably wouldn't worry about it.

All connectors have been re-pinned and boards have new headers. All boards are original, with the exception of the rectifier which came from Weebly. The lamp board is a bally (Pretty sure that was also changed out at some point as well.).

Which harness do you need? Are you looking for the displays part of the harness or are you looking for the play field part of the harness?

Shawn, at Third Coast Pinball, has been busy making play field and displays harnesses for Star Gazer and Quicksilver.

The Star Gazer displays harness works fine in Big Game. I don't know if he has tooled up to make a Big Game Play field harness. But you can contact him here.

https://pinside.com/pinball/biz/directory/1180-third-coast-pinball

Which part of yours is hacked up? Got any pics?

It might be that he could make up a partial harness for different connectors and then you would have to wire it up to your play field.

No pictures at the moment, but it's mainly the connectors going to the MPU and power board that have been mangled.

Pics would help.

I've explored that option and I'd rather buy new.

These days I replace all switch capacitors and diodes, plus the switches themselves as most of them have had their contact flashing destroyed over the years. A bad switch cap can wreak havoc on the switch matrix, so you are better off just replacing all of them. Regarding your reset issue, if you have ruled out the slam tilts, then be sure to check your flipper diodes. I have seen cracked flipper diodes reset classic Bally/Stern on several occasions.

Once you do all the necessary work, these old classic Sterns will hold up great on location. I have found that a refurbished classic Bally/Stern is much more reliable than the newer stuff.

Joined the club ... She's a stunner. Now to find a Quicksilver in similar condition

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Do you think the metal strips of the switches get fatigued over the years of playing action and then cease to flex correctly? The best examples I can think of are the slingshot switches.

There are two exceptional Seawitches for sale, also a Nine Ball and a Flight 2000 if you are getting into the classic Sterns. You will pay but they are nice.

Hard to say. Sometimes switches have been adjusted so many times that they can look like a crinkled potato chip. By the time I get to one of them, I don't know if their current state was gameplay related or because of all the adjustments. I think a good test to see if the switch tension is gone is how long the switch will hold an adjustment.

Kind of odd, but I haven't seen this switch fatigue issue so much on classic Sterns, but I did see it on Avengers and TNA slingshots. In both cases, the leaf switches were bent back due to gameplay.

Making progress....

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I know one thing for certain, I will never restore another purple pinball machine.... getting this color even close to where I wanted it has been a HUGE pain. Many attempts at tinting, several different paint shops scanning colors, mixing/tinting colors etc. It's not exactly what I wanted, but it's pretty good. Purple is a very difficult color to work with.... In the end, this is a custom Sherwin Williams Magenta/White semi gloss mix with a touch of blue added & clear coat added some depth & darkened it a hair. Purple is tricky because it looks so different in different lighting... & from all the pics of Draculas I looked at they vary wildly on original color. The original color under the rails on this machine was a bit more reddish plum than this purple, but when I sanded the purple on the backbox the color was more purple & less reddish.... I don't think this color is exactly the way the majority of Dracula's came out of Stern, but I think it's sharp & probably a better looking color than the original. I'm not a 100% stickler for originality, so this is what I went with due to personal preference.

Pinball Pimp Stencils, excellent quality as usual.

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It looks very nice, IMO. It will look good in any lineup. And as you are slapping the ball around that beautiful play field you are working up you won’t even notice.

Hi all, I'm currently working on a project/restore of a Flash Gordon (not a Stern, I know) that I traded for so don't have a lot of documentation or pics of what the PF looked like before it was stripped.

So I have a couple questions I'm hoping you can answer:

1. Where should the brass plastic holder posts be used vs the chrome ones? And where are those screws without threading near the top (2 shown in the middle of the pic) used?
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2. Anyone know where I can get replacements for these tired/broken posts?
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3. What can I do with these ramps that have some rust spotting on them? Is it possible to sand out the blemishes and then re-polish?
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Thanks for any advice. I promise to post something about my Big Game or Stargazer next.

I have some project sterns to sell:
Big Game: Complete game, decent backglass (some red flaking) and cabinet, Playfield has lots of planking and wear. $500
Stars: Decent backglass and playfield, cabinet has been painted a solid blue, boards are missing; otherwise complete $500
Nineball: Decent backglass and cabinet, playfield has typical wear in ball rack inserts, boards are missing. $1200 SOLD
Magic: decent cabinet and playfield. Backglass is flaky. Complete, boots and plays. Good plastics. Lite project $600 SOLD
Located in southern MN. Preference to a buyer that will take the lot.
PM for pics and questions.

If the brass posts and the chrome posts are the same length and both are threaded for screw on acorn nuts I don't think it will matter. If they are different lengths then the the shorter ones will go with shorter posts.

The two countersunk head wood screws are going to go where you can see a depression on the lower side of the play field where they will fit. Maybe they are screws to hold the rails on to the play field

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You can get these posts at Pinball Resource. Or pinball life. Or Marco.

https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=post

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People laugh, but they have not tried it. You can buy some Evapo rust for $10.00 a gallon. Or you can get some molasses at the grocery store for about $4.00. Mix a couple of ounces to a gallon of water and let it soak for 2-3 days. The rust will be gone. Lightly scrub with some Scotchbrite.

You can keep your mix in a gallon jug and keep reusing it. And you can get some chrome polish and maybe you can wax it and it will stay good for awhile.

Unlike the rust removers you buy, molasses is not harmful to the environment. And for some people it is great on pancakes.

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Awesome thanks!

I assume the molasses needs to be warm enough to mix properly (I live in Canada, it was -30c here this morning)?

So you're suggesting scotchpad so basically giving up the shiny chrome (orig) appearance and trying for a grained one instead?

Try the molasses, or whatever first. The rust may just wash off with a terry cloth towel.

I'm am really sorry about the cold you guys up north are having to deal with. LAst night, it got down to zero where I am. I feel your pain. That said, I assume you have your house furnace going all of the time. Put some hot water in a a container and spoon a couple or three table spoons of molasses into the hot water. It will mix fast.

One thing I forgot to tell you: Molasses is food. It gets moldy. And stinky. I have a PVC tube I soak pinball legs in. It sits outside. In the summer, the flies and bugs are attracted to the sugar content. They fly in, get trapped and die. It gets rank. When the water evaporates just add more water.

Here is a vise I soaked for 10 days.

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Fresh mix.

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Moldy mix

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Before and after

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For your ramp you might find some vinegar will work just as well.

The brass posts are for the shorter 1 1\16 posts and the chrome for the larger 1 3/16. As to where each actually go you may want to try posting in the bally/stern 2518 thread or if there is a fan club for Flash Gordon you may try there.

Pretty much done with this thing. Turned out pretty nice.

I’m starting to see it chuckwart’s way. Game seems really easy. Just got 1.6 and two multiballs in one game.

Might be post-rippin’ time!!!

Anybody else find this one to be kind of easy? I have it on three ball and steep and I already opened up the outlanes as much as possible. I’m used to these old sterns being mean.
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Nice !

Haha. Do it! Posts don’t last long in most of my games. This one they didn’t even last one ball.

Same with Stars. But those might go back in if I put it to 3 ball. I need more time on it though.

I'm now in the camp that if it is too steep you won't get any side to side motion and that makes it easier. I have a Stars set on probably 5/5.5 degrees with the outlanes opened up, and it is pretty tough.

You are post-ripping Stars?!

Now I KNOW you are insane!

Put it on 3 ball, move the posts (not remove them) so the outlanes are open and you have a great playing game. Certainly doesn't need the post-ripping treatment. I've owned like 4 stars and I can say that with confidence.

I'll let you know how the Flight 2K mod works out. I'm gonna go no rubbers first and if it's still too easy I'll take 'em out.

I also may make it a little less steep as suggested. I just like games to play steep and fast but I also agree it can make it easier - less side to side and easier to trap.

Yeah too steep can be bad. This Stars I have has two short legs on the front. Too steep. Not that it’s too easy, but the shots aren’t right. Even with rebuilt flippers the ball doesn’t get back to the top of the playfield easily through the spinners.

He is a crazy person .

I do love me some fast old Stern and Bally machines, my Magic is set at 6 degrees or so and for a long time I had the outlanes opened up completely. I put them back in for Pincinnati last year, but I'm thinking it is time for them to come back out.

I would bet you watched a pretty nice Catacomb go by eBay here in Minnesota. A pinball flipper friend of mine found that, paid 50 bucks for it and $50 for a Dracula I ended up with. I tried to buy that off him in the worst way but no dice, all I did was strengthen his resolve to see what it would auction for. Ended out at $3500ish. He mailed it to somebody in California, so that cat has $4G's into one. If that helps in pricing I don't know, I think I just wrote that a Catacomb costs between 50 bucks and $4 Grand.

I am 98% sure the F2k at PAPA has the posts removed as well... I'm trying to remember if the ones above the red circle are removed as well to make it borderline psychotic, or just rubber removed to make it generally unhinged...

I'll take a look next time I'm there if I remember. (and because I want to confirm mine is set the same - Posts removed, above red circles at conservative)

If anyone has interest in my lightning I can provide pics of the work that went into it etc.

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Ha I actually checked their gameplay video for reference. It DOES have the posts, but that doesn't mean they weren't removed for PAPA/Pinburgh. In fact I played that game in the finals on stage at Pinburgh 2017 and got my ass kicked (first time I'd played it). It's all a painful blur but the game sure didn't seem easy.

...and vanilla ice cream!

All are now SOLD

In 24 hours ?