The problem with that set is the plastic that is always broken is broken on this set, as well. In this case, there are 2 pieces of a particular plastic. Both are broken. It is better than what Levi has so he might be able to make it work for cheap.

Ah, I get it. Mine are not broken and I did not know there was one always susceptible to breakage. I bought the left side out-lane one - I still need the right one to replace my chipped one so if anyone has a lead on one, I'd appreciate it.

I can't fix your chipped one but you should consider getting some .030" Polycarbonate/Lexan and make your self a couple of protectors to keep them from chipping.

I mentioned the factory mod but I still think a piece of poly would be better to protect those two pieces.

You should also consider making a poly protector for that piece up in the back that likes to break.

Yeah, we are all buying the same plastic set for the same 2 plastics. That's how it always is.

I figured screw it, it's $150 for the plastic set on a free game, and from what I can tell (the game is currently playing more or less) it's a really cool game that's worth the investment even if the playfield is worn.

That is a great idea, make them while I can. Is that material fairly easy to source and so I make them the exact same size?

Question - how do I get the metal standoffs off of the old plastic to reuse for the new one I bought.

You need to make a little bit oversized at the points of impact.

You might be able to find at Lowes or Home Depot. A local plastics supply shop, most likely.

You will probably want to get 12" x 24" for size.

This is Amazon for .030 thick. You can cut it some with heavy duty scissors but you will probably need a Dremel Tool.

https://www.amazon.com/s

Here it is in .020 thickness. Only this is called Macrolon.

https://www.amazon.com/s

Lexan and Macrolon are brand names for polycarbonate.

Here it is again searching with polycarbonate instead of brand names.

https://www.amazon.com/s

Using .020, you can cut that with scissors very easily.

You can buy sheets of polycarbonate on EBay. To remove the metal standoffs (bells), place the tip of your hot soldering iron inside the bell from the bottom side. Keep moving it around every five seconds or so. After about thirty seconds total take a rag and slowly pull the bell off the plastic. If it’s still tight keep heating up the bell until it loosens up. Use the same process to apply the bell to the new plastic

How are you installing the bell? I mean, how are you holding it to apply heat with out burning your fingertips? And how are you pushing it into the plastic, again without burning you fingertips? I tried your way and had no luck. I had to do something different. I like the sound of your way better but can't figure it out.

So then the plastic gets soft and you can gently pull out - that makes sense. Then you heat the bell again and that will heat the new plastic and you push through. But wont that make the hole in the plastic too large?

If you blow out a hole, you can put a small dab of Gorilla Glue on the bell, screw the bell and plastic down and give the Gorilla Glue 24 hours to dry. Good as new.

Actually, they are mainly production line time saver. You can place them on your play field individually and screw each one in slightly. Then screw them all down. It is a little bit more work but not too bad.

Anyone have a Stern Stars playfield scan?

I just did this install. Same game. CPR plastics. Here’s the old instruction recommending drilling out the bells:

https://web.archive.org/web/20160320050407/https://classicplayfields.com/f2khelp.html

I used this method and it worked great.

I also did the Lexan thing and it worked great.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/15#post-4737688

Cool beans !!

Plastic quarters for your coin door.

I don't know what else to call what I am going to show you.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

As you Stern lovers are aware, there is no Free Play. So you either set your pin to award a game at 10,000 points, or you open the coin door and manipulate the wire on the coin switch, or you attach a door bell button to your cabinet, or you solder on a push button switch and leave it swinging by the wiring inside the coin door, or you keep a pocket full of quarters handy.

None of the above counts as plug-n-play. There is always something you have to contend with to add credits to your classic Stern. I call it a hassle-factor.

This morning I thought of something that might work better than all of the above. This afternoon I got it done. Up and running. I think it is pretty cool. A no-hassle way to add credits to your classic Stern.

Pics tell the story.

You need a mini-micro switch. The momentary type with a lever actuated push button. You need an alligator test lead cut in half with a clip on each end. Some shrink tube. Some polycarbonate. And some thin-bodied fast setting super glue. And some 3M super sticky double-backed tape.

It works like a charm.

You need to remove one of the coin chutes from the coin door. It is attached with 4 machine screws.

IMG_9913 (resized).JPG

The black nub you see on the strip of poly will be the "button" that will actuate the lever on the micro switch.
It will fit into the slot in the coin chute.

IMG_9914 (resized).JPG

IMG_9915 (resized).JPG

Wires are soldered onto the micro switch.
IMG_9916 (resized).JPG

Checking final fit of poly strip inside the chute. Nothing is binding. In my best NASA voice, " Everything is A-OK".
IMG_9918 (resized).JPG

The two halves of the chute have been taped together to hold everything tight. The micro switch has been located into the best fitting position and locked on with some super sticky 3M double backed tape. Lightly pushing on the operating end of the poly produces the desired results of actuating the micro switch.

IMG_9926 (resized).JPG

The coin chute has been reinstalled to the coin door.

IMG_9919 (resized).JPG

Here is the front side.

IMG_9921 (resized).JPG

Front side with me giving my new "button" a push. So far , so good.

IMG_9923 (resized).JPG

I have trimmed some of the excess poly from the "button" to add some refinement. I am going to trim this a bit more and into a crescent shape so very little of the "button" will be showing.

IMG_9928 (resized).JPG

The two alligator clips have been clipped on to the coin door switch.

IMG_9930 (resized).JPG

As I said earlier, it works like a charm. I know a pinsider with a 3D printer. I'm going to see if he can print me up some of these plastic "buttons" because I want do all my Sterns this way.

Would anybody be interested in some of these if I can get them printed? I have no idea what they would cost.

I parrell wired a micro switch from the coin switch so that it can be activated with the coin return push button. Might have to drill a hole but it works good for me. Just wire it correctly or it will boot like the coin switch is stuck.

0F33190F-1BB8-4605-8649-1B98694E38FF (resized).jpeg

I had thought about doing that. That's a nice solution, too.

This thing is coming along!

Fun game. I always thought the multiball rules were some confusing embryon like mystery but they are actually pretty simple.

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B161D7EB-4A95-4540-B969-35B9CA2C7B3C (resized).jpeg

I’ve had mine for like a year and I’ve gotten to Multiball like 3 times. Pretty much the only way to break a million.

I got it a few times today, but the game has dead rubber still and nothings been rebuilt but the drops.

Seems like the hard part is BLASTOFF and then it just falls
Into place.

Cool speech on this reminds of Berzerk!

Yeah it’s sweet. I took the star posts out from the top of the lane guides and regretted it 2 games later, but never switched back. This one is restored so it’s fast and mean.

What do you mean?

If you're running a stock MPU, there should free play ROMs for all Stern games now, FWIW.

If you have a good control game - right spinner all day (if it's properly spinning). a perfect spinner shot that hits the 3 bank through the orbit is one of the most satisfying classic Stern shots out there and adds 500/spin each completion.

Tough to survive that shot on my game. The outlanes are hungry!

I took the posts out I circled in green.

69288CA9-3F74-4765-BF6E-4597D0303321 (resized).jpeg

The game is so nasty now.

Mine is playing pretty easy, again it's slow and dirty so I expect that to change.

Why did you remove the posts? Is that a standard tournament move or you just wanted quick games?

If mine is playing too easy I'd consider removing the rubber from the posts but taking them out altogether doesn't seem like much fun.

"Should be" or "are"? Where can I get them?

I have n Alltek's in right now but if I can get my factory MPU up and running a free play ROM would be nice.

You just need a cool free play switch mod like mine.

BF84FBC4-7033-4BF8-BB87-D1AB4176FA37 (resized).jpeg

vpforums.org

If you take the rings off the plastic post the post may break, but they’re cheap to replace. If you remove the post completely; the ball will break the outlane plastic at its top, you will develop wear on the playfield where the post was. When you replace the post later there will be playfield wear showing around that post

Just not a fan of pulling posts. Seems like "gettin cute" to me. Eliminates an important skill from the game.

Et Voila! nine ball in the line up now

92dc9f362510351de13c32c1b787b36cd025b6f6 (resized).jpeg

I used to play in a lot of tournaments and if the post was a metal nail type post they would take off the ring to make the game more difficult. I don’t remember seeing this done with plastic posts

Levi, your coin door looks something American Pickers stumbled onto. I can just hear Frank saying, " I love coin doors". Yours looks like a good source of parts. Why don't you just sell me your coin door and you can keep a couple of twisty wires inside the box

LOL no way dude. I don't part working machines!

This thing is getting a full shop out, new drops, new plastics. I don't give a shit about some playfield wear.

Keep your grubby mitts off my Flight 2K!!!

I have something similar to this in mine. It was mounted where the left price plate was supposed to be. I moved it from there, mounted it on a piece of metal and screwed it to one of those little rails stapled to the bottom of the cabinet inside the coin door. Then I set the switch to give 5 plays for every time I press it. Also removed the key lock and put in one of those little knobs that make opening the door possible w/o a key. Lastly, I fixed the open space in the coin door where the switch was with a new light and price plate.

This is a fun machine to work on. I am awaiting a play field protector once the place I am speaking to adds it to his inventory - I have a number of dished inserts.

isn't easier to set the high score replay to like 10,000 points

That works as well, it's what I usually do.

I'll probably just leave this switch hanging out of the coin slot because it's funny. And I like the credit up sound.

It looked like the ball wouldn’t even fit in the gap if I left them in. So took them out. Game is very hard, but I think it’s fair. Punishes you for missed shots. And like I said, making Multiball is VERY rewarding. It’s basically a wizard mode on this thing.

Disagree. I have plastic protectors on and the game is clear coated with Mylar over the old holes. Lots of games later, still good as new.

You can buy 5 drops for $4.00 each. Or you might give these a try: Tractor Doc has made a set of numbers stickers in the Stern style. I re-did a set of Big Game drops with them. They work great. $5.00 per set.

I'm waiting for him to cut a set of black stars.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1169-doc-s-pinball-shop/02288-classic-stern-drop-target-number-decals

These are awesome resources. In this case, I'd already broken one drop target so figured may as well replace the whole set. These are 40 years old after all.

What if you took out the posts above the special lights on the outlanes?

When I did it it was between those and the lane guide ones. I went lane guides.

Mine came from the guy I bought it from with the switch, I just moved it to a different location. All in all, yes much easier to set free game to 10k. )

think I'm down to my last 2 issues on a meteor partial restore.
1. all parts were cleaned, now the trough coil kicks the ball out and it ricochets of the metal shooter lane protector and goes back down the trough, but hangs on the edge. Anyone every added a resistor to a coil to lower the power?

2. random resets, maybe once every 30-40 games. It's identical to when the slam tilt switch is pushed. thinking momentary loss of 5v on the board or the slam tilt is getting triggered somehow? I hate these intermittent issues, such a pain in the ass. The game was unplayable when I got it, so I have no idea if this issue was pre-existing.

Just looking for ideas, if anyone has some.

I'm dealing with exact this same problem from when I put my Big Game back together. It's like a cannon shot. A solution for this would be nice.

That's worth a try.

The end of the trough guide is forked. Shim the top fork up a bit and the ball will roll back into the shooter lane. This will also change the angle that the ball exits on and help stop the bang backs.