(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

1 year ago



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There are 2517 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 51.
#1051 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

To help with isolating switches, you might try blocking 3 or 4 switches with some business card paper. Block 3 or 4 and if the points are still rolling you need to isolate some different switches.

Good idea, going to try it now.

#1052 9 months ago

cottonm4, tried what you suggested. When I block 4 out of 5 switches in turn, the unblocked queen and jack DT's, with their target dropped, will continue to score points when I pound on the side of the playfield until the outhole switch is activated or until I shut it off. I cleaned all 5 switches with the business card strips, no change. Should I replace the diodes on these two switches?

#1053 9 months ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Before I go ripping off a bunch of perfectly good caps and diodes, is there something else to look for?

If your switches still have the original pancake caps cut one leg off or remove them entirely. These things dry out and fail causing all sorts of issues in the switch matrix. The game will play ok with them removed but can be replaced for $.12 each.

#1054 9 months ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

If your switches still have the original pancake caps cut one leg off or remove them entirely. These things dry out and fail causing all sorts of issues in the switch matrix. The game will play ok with them removed but can be replaced for $.12 each.

This would be a fast way to isolate a problem. If that don't do it then replace the diodes. They are cheap and easy to replace.

#1055 9 months ago

Triggering the switches by pounding makes it sound mechanical to me, not electronic. The switches are not blocked when you pound and score, correct? I just want to make sure I'm reading it right.

What happens if you block them and then pound? Do any switches score?

My experience is cleaning with a business card is not enough. If you look at the switch contacts they are probably tarnished black. The business card will have little or no effect. I use my Dremel with a fine abrasive buff (like ScotchBrite material) just enough to get the black off of the contacts, a very short pulse. Too much and you'll take the gold plating off leaving the switch unreliable.

#1056 9 months ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

If your switches still have the original pancake caps cut one leg off or remove them entirely. These things dry out and fail causing all sorts of issues in the switch matrix. The game will play ok with them removed but can be replaced for $.12 each.

Sounds like his problem is only with drop targets. Drop targets should not have caps on them. Caps are designed to work with switches with a very short closure time, like a ball bouncing off a stationary target.

When a drop target is hit, the switch closes and stays closed, therefore, no need for a cap.

#1057 9 months ago

Yes, there are no caps on the switches, i was wrong in my initial post.

I block 4 out of the five targets, each time leaving one different target unblocked. When the unblocked target is the 10, King or Ace, it scores 500 as it should when it drops and nothing else happens when I pound on the playfield.
When the Jack or Queen are unblocked and drop they begin to score rapidly and sometimes stop when the outhole switch is closed or they just keep on going. No pause between every 500 or so, just steady rapid scoring.
I'm going to replace the diodes on the Jack and Queen, and I will report back.

#1058 9 months ago

Couple of my inserts popped out of stars while I was cleaning the underside of the playfield.

What kind of glue should I use to put them back in? Any dos and don’ts? Never done it before.

#1059 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Couple of my inserts popped out of stars while I was cleaning the underside of the playfield.
What kind of glue should I use to put them back in? Any dos and don’ts? Never done it before.

I have always just use a few dots of super glue. Never had an issue.
But do not use glues that expand or foam up like Gorilla glue.

#1060 9 months ago
Quoted from Arcade:

I have always just use a few dots of super glue. Never had an issue.
But do not use glues that expand or foam up like Gorilla glue.

I have lots of regular classic super glue. I’ll do that. Thanks!

#1061 9 months ago

I did every single insert on my Lightning. I used the two part epoxy that you mix together. I read that somewhere here on Pinside and it worked well.

#1062 9 months ago

Two part epoxy, brush it on religiously from the backside. I had an F14 with 'very' moved inserts... over a year later and they're still mostly flat after a solid wood block/clamp with epoxy from the back. I'll get around to restoring it further down the line, but for a players machine it's worked great.

#1063 9 months ago

I will post it here also... already post it on the Nineball discussion...

I have a probleme with my start button... If all the drop on the right bank drop target are down, when I press the start button... the game reboot. If a one, two or all drop traget are up... I can start the game and everything work like it should...

Already change the diode on the start switch, all drop target, tilt and slam switch. I also change the switch itself. I check closely for any short on the coin door.

If I goes in test switch mode, the # associated with the start button is Ok, idem if I check it with all the drop down...

Finally, if i touch the tilt switch or slam switch, the game reboot.

Any idea

#1064 9 months ago

If the bottom drop target is UP and the other two DOWN, will it start the game normally when you press the start button?

If the top and bottom targets are DOWN and the middle is UP, will it reboot when you press the start button?

#1065 9 months ago

as soon as one of the drop are up... it work

#1066 9 months ago

I would double-check the diode on the top drop target for a short. Disconnect the diode on the bottom drop and see if your problems go away. If not, the problem is probably somewhere in the coin door.

#1067 9 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

I would double-check the diode on the top drop target for a short. Disconnect the diode on the bottom drop and see if your problems go away. If not, the problem is probably somewhere in the coin door.

I will double check, but i change all the diode yesterday and nothing change

#1068 9 months ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Yes, there are no caps on the switches, i was wrong in my initial post.
I block 4 out of the five targets, each time leaving one different target unblocked. When the unblocked target is the 10, King or Ace, it scores 500 as it should when it drops and nothing else happens when I pound on the playfield.
When the Jack or Queen are unblocked and drop they begin to score rapidly and sometimes stop when the outhole switch is closed or they just keep on going. No pause between every 500 or so, just steady rapid scoring.
I'm going to replace the diodes on the Jack and Queen, and I will report back.

Here's the upshot: not a diode problem, a switch adjustment problem. When the jack or queen drop target fell, their switch contacts appeared to be closed as they should. But there was just a hair's breadth gap between them so that (I guess) that the voltage jumped across this miniscule gap and vibration kept it jumping and the switch continued to rack up points. If anyone has a better explanation I'd love to hear it, as I actually have been wrong before! My wife can explain in detail. Adjusted these switches and the machine works great. Going up for sale soon. Thanks for all the suggestions.

#1069 9 months ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Here's the upshot: not a diode problem, a switch adjustment problem. When the jack or queen drop target fell, their switch contacts appeared to be closed as they should. But there was just a hair's breadth gap between them so that (I guess) that the voltage jumped across this miniscule gap and vibration kept it jumping and the switch continued to rack up points. If anyone has a better explanation I'd love to hear it, as I actually have been wrong before! My wife can explain in detail. Adjusted these switches and the machine works great. Going up for sale soon. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Thanks for posting the solution.

#1070 9 months ago

Need a picture of a lightning rectifier board connectors. Been tracing a vsu-100 speech problem and traced it to no gi power to board and it goes straight back to rectifier. Someone put the wire in they keying pin plug. No idea why. I believe it should be pin 11. Want a confirmation.

Also a note schematics show tp1 as +5v to2 as gnd and tp3 as -10v. Mine is not that way. Tp1 is gnd and tp2 is +5v

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#1071 9 months ago

I don't have a pic but I checked the schematic. Yes, J3 pin 11 is the GI bus, same electrically as J3 pin 10 and J1 pin 5.

#1072 9 months ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I don't have a pic but I checked the schematic. Yes, J3 pin 11 is the GI bus, same electrically as J3 pin 10 and J1 pin 5.

Yeah that’s what I read but I figured I’d see if I could see a pic since the schematics already let me down once on this thing and made me waste two days

#1073 9 months ago

This stars is pretty much ready to go! Not the prettiest thing in the world, but I think it will be a great player.

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#1074 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

This stars is pretty much ready to go! Not the prettiest thing in the world, but I think it will be a great player.
[quoted image]

...pretty/schmitty...
gimme 'dat playa'!!!

I like the ones with, shall we say, a bit of character.

#1075 9 months ago

Chuckwurt you’re missing the posts by the outlanes. I’d think that would make this already fun game even tougher. Is that what you’re going for?

#1076 9 months ago
Quoted from Xtraball:

Chuckwurt you’re missing the posts by the outlanes. I’d think that would make this already fun game even tougher. Is that what you’re going for?

Yes sir. This thing is basically an EM. I may put it on 5 ball as compensation.

#1077 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I may put it on 5 ball

Had to downvote that lol. Only solid state that should be on 5 ball is joker poker.

#1078 9 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Had to downvote that lol. Only solid state that should be on 5 ball is joker poker.

May! Haha. Sorry man I run tournaments. My Grand Prix is 3 ball. Does that make up for it?

#1079 9 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Had to downvote that lol. Only solid state that should be on 5 ball is joker poker.

I have my Big Game set to 5 Ball. It is the only way I have any chance lighting up all 27 lights in those bingo cards. You can downvote me but it is staying on 5

#1080 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I have my Big Game set to 5 Ball. It is the only way I have any chance lighting up all 27 lights in those bingo cards. You can downvote me but it is staying on 5

I have a hunch he has EBs on too.

#1081 9 months ago

Update to that lightning. Moved the gi wire over to pin 11. Got my speech going. Tilt wiring all jacked up so I fixed all of it. Still no working tilt switch. Would trigger coin chute #2. Pulled my hair tracing bad diodes or caps. Then traced schematics and return for tilt switch is suppose to be pin 15 on j3. It was plugged into pin 3.

I’ve never encountered multiple wires moved to wrong places in a connector like this before. Baffles me as to why anyone would of done this.

Slowly getting this thing back to its glory. It’s been a long journey. Boy was it nasty.

#1082 9 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Had to downvote that lol. Only solid state that should be on 5 ball is joker poker.

Haha. Agreed!

#1083 9 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Had to downvote that lol. Only solid state that should be on 5 ball is joker poker.

Was thinking about it this some more. How would you setup the SS versions of Hot Tip, or Grand Prix? How about the EM version of Mata Hari?

#1084 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Was thinking about it this some more. How would you setup the SS versions of Hot Tip, or Grand Prix? How about the EM version of Mata Hari?

I stick hard and fast to the 3 ball SS, 5 ball EM mantra.

#1085 9 months ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

I stick hard and fast to the 3 ball SS, 5 ball EM mantra.

So if you had the SS version of Grand Prix it would be 3 ball. Then the EM version would be 5 ball?

Interesting. I base my decision on game times usually.

#1086 9 months ago

Are the lamp boards from big game and Stars interchangible?

#1087 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Are the lamp boards from big game and Stars interchangible?

As far as I know they should be. What board do you have in Stars at the moment?

#1088 9 months ago
Quoted from thirdedition:

As far as I know they should be. What board do you have in Stars at the moment?

I will have to check. I have like 3 spare stern and Bally lamp boards that I’d like to try one to help me diagnose two lamps that don’t work. I’ll look at the model numbers and see if any match the Stars board.

#1089 9 months ago

As far as I am aware the Stern and Bally boards are interchangeable. I think some Bally games had expansion boards for more lights, but I don't know if Stern did.

Either way the base board should be good to go in either.

#1090 9 months ago
Quoted from thirdedition:

As far as I am aware the Stern and Bally boards are interchangeable. I think some Bally games had expansion boards for more lights, but I don't know if Stern did.
Either way the base board should be good to go in either.

Cool. Thanks brah.

#1091 9 months ago

Stern and Bally lamp and Sol. driver boards are interchangeable. Only exceptions are oddball games like Goldball and Baby pac-man.

#1092 9 months ago

Swapped in another lamp board last night and I still have a couple bad lamps. Sockets and connections are good. I’ll dig deeper to test the board components when I get more time.

#1093 9 months ago

I just got a Flight 2K for free!

That's really all I want to say.

Pretty worn out but it actually works. Can't wait to clean this one up and get it playing nice.

Should I keep the PC Fan mod?

I don't usually buy new plastic sets especially for beaters but figured in this case I'd splurge.
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#1094 9 months ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

I just got a Flight 2K for free!
That's really all I want to say.
Pretty worn out but it actually works. Can't wait to clean this one up and get it playing nice.
Should I keep the PC Fan mod?
I don't usually buy new plastic sets especially for beaters but figured in this case I'd splurge.

Just did that for Stars. Most were broken though.

F2K is a great game. Very rewarding multiball and hard as hell to get to.

#1095 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Just did that for Stars. Most were broken though.
F2K is a great game. Very rewarding multiball and hard as hell to get to.

This one has the busted plastics at the maze - check out the cool clown mod!

Most sets are like that. There's 2 plastics that are always broken but I guess it doesn't make sense just to sell those.

I'll keep the spare slings and throw the rest out probably.

#1096 9 months ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

This one has the busted plastics at the maze - check out the cool clown mod!
Most sets are like that. There's 2 plastics that are always broken but I guess it doesn't make sense just to sell those.
I'll keep the spare slings and throw the rest out probably.

Yeah if they are scratched or cracked I keep them mist in case. I don’t try to save if broken in half.

#1097 9 months ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Should I keep the PC Fan mod?

I cannot see a reason for keeping the fan.

#1098 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I cannot see a reason for keeping the fan.

Thing sounds like a DC-9 spooling when you turn it on. It's really something!

#1099 9 months ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Thing sounds like a DC-9 spooling when you turn it on. It's really something!

Your plastics: I would keep the good ones. Especially the inlane plastics if not broken. There is a factory mod that adds a short ball guide under the plastic at the flipper to take the ball stresses and protect your inlane plastics. Mine has the mod ( I assume from the factory). I have some spare ball guides that will probably work if you need any.

Mine has a hole on the back of the back box for a fan. Beats me.

#1100 9 months ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

I just got a Flight 2K for free!
That's really all I want to say.
Pretty worn out but it actually works. Can't wait to clean this one up and get it playing nice.
Should I keep the PC Fan mod?
I don't usually buy new plastic sets especially for beaters but figured in this case I'd splurge.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

See this archived ad - he has nearly a full set of plastics for sale. I just bought one of the pieces shown in his set, it was delivered quickly and easily.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/75280

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