(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Ollulanus
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Topic index (key posts)

11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 11,006 posts in this topic. You are on page 218 of 221.
#10851 43 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

My Dragonfist build is progressing. Not much to show yet. The cabinet is all primed and ready to go. Between coats I regrained the Stern lockbar. Anyone who does builds knows a restore project is really about 100 smaller projects all strung together. This is one of those smaller projects.
[quoted image][quoted image]

What did you use to regrain the lockdown bar?

#10852 43 days ago

And the weebly kit doesn’t have instructions.

#10853 43 days ago
Quoted from Clytor:

What did you use to regrain the lockdown bar?

This one wasn't that bad. I start with some good quality wet / dry 220 grit sandpaper and run it lengthwise down the bar (nice straight strokes). I then repeat the process with a green Scotch Brite pad followed by the gray one. I also use 0000 steel wool to clean up the underside. Acetone is really good for getting off the old bear seal adhesive.

#10854 43 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

This one wasn't that bad. I start with some good quality wet / dry 220 grit sandpaper and run it lengthwise down the bar (nice straight strokes). I then repeat the process with a green Scotch Brite pad followed by the gray one. I also use 0000 steel wool to clean up the underside. Acetone is really good for getting off the old bear seal adhesive.

I have seen one lock bar that was regrained. What i noticed immediately was how easily it loaded up with finger and palm prints. Do you have a method to prevent fingerprinting?

#10855 43 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

Yeah, those PBL rectifiers make it a no brainier to just replace. No way the time involved in diagnosing and repairing one is worth more than $60, not to mention bridges aren't that cheap nowadays. I ordered one of those build your own kits from Weebly last time I ordered; kinda fun to do once but next time I'll spend the extra $20 for PBL to do it for me

I did kind of enjoy putting the wolffpac displays together (all except cleaning the residue afterwards) but I wouldn’t look forward to doing it again either.

I got my tracking number from PBL today so hopefully this weekend I can shotgun this problem and see if it does the trick. The connectors and pins from Big Daddy will likely be farther behind but I’ll go ahead and do that work as well even if the rectifier solves my issues. I got one of those ratcheting crimpers a while back when I was wiring up joysticks and buttons for my home multicade.

#10856 43 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I have seen one lock bar that was regrained. What i noticed immediately was how easily it loaded up with finger and palm prints. Do you have a method to prevent fingerprinting?

The more polished it is, the more fingerprints show. If you are concerned about fingerprints, leave the lockbar with a rough grain. Personally, I think the Stern lockbars clean up great, and the polished appearance looks better than the rough any day. Just have your stainless steel cleaner at the ready.

#10857 43 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I have seen one lock bar that was regrained. What i noticed immediately was how easily it loaded up with finger and palm prints. Do you have a method to prevent fingerprinting?

I use a metal surfacer.
These use scotch-brite flap wheels and make quick work of it. Start with a relatively coarse grit and step up to finer ones.
If the bar feels “open grained” that just means it wants a finer grit or two.

Personally I can’t stand chromed finishes on pins, they make me OCD and unable to enjoy living. (I am also unfit to own a microfiber sofa.)

#10858 43 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

I use a metal surfacer.
These use scotch-brite flap wheels and make quick work of it. Start with a relatively coarse grit and step up to finer ones.
If the bar feels “open grained” that just means it wants a finer grit or two.
Personally I can’t stand chromed finishes on pins, they make me OCD and unable to enjoy living. (I am also unfit to own a microfiber sofa.)

I like polished stainless.

#10859 43 days ago

Can someone with a lightning take a peek underneath this area and tell me if the through screw bolted to the lower has a plastic spacer between the playfields? Not seeing one in my parts, seems unnecessary, but it's the sort of thing I'd rather a yay or nay on after all this hassle.

PXL_20230731_011214228_exported_1717554533519 (resized).jpgPXL_20230731_011214228_exported_1717554533519 (resized).jpg
Added 41 days ago:

NM, I don't see any indentations from a spacer being there like are present on the front screw that does have a spacer, must not be there. If you ever do a teardown on a Lightning, take more.photos than me the way this thing is crammed together it's too easy to miss stuff you wanna see later. And I took a couple hundred. :p

#10860 39 days ago

Made some custom target decals for the lightning I'm finally finishing up. If you have a silhouette or such, 3 passes at full force did the trick cutting vinyl with a layer of mylar on top. With the mylar they should look good forever

PXL_20240608_150632915 (resized).jpgPXL_20240608_150632915 (resized).jpgPXL_20240608_150642235 (resized).jpgPXL_20240608_150642235 (resized).jpg
#10861 39 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

Made some custom target decals for the lightning I'm finally finishing up.

That’s a sweet little mod. Definitely going to have to copy that idea, it seems so obvious now that I’ve seen it, kind of disappointed in myself that I didn’t think of that!

1 week later
#10862 32 days ago

I am in need of the lift bracket for a nine ball drop target assembly

By chance if anyone sees this would sell me the bracket or the assembly in full, that would be amazing. Just realize my nine ball does not have this bracket.

If anybody knows of any way I can make something work for it would be greatly appreciated

#10863 32 days ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

I am in need of the lift bracket for a nine ball drop target assembly
By chance if anyone sees this would sell me the bracket or the assembly in full, that would be amazing. Just realize my nine ball does not have this bracket.
If anybody knows of any way I can make something work for it would be greatly appreciated

If it’s this piece (lift bar?) I might have it.

IMG_3036 (resized).jpegIMG_3036 (resized).jpeg
#10864 32 days ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

I am in need of the lift bracket for a nine ball drop target assembly
By chance if anyone sees this would sell me the bracket or the assembly in full, that would be amazing. Just realize my nine ball does not have this bracket.
If anybody knows of any way I can make something work for it would be greatly appreciated

These lift bars break often, probably why yours is MIA. The larger Bally banks use dual reset coils that may help with this issue. I wonder if it's possible to do the same with the Stern 9 bank. I have parts to try it out and will one of these days.

#10865 32 days ago
Quoted from emsrph:

If it’s this piece (lift bar?) I might have it.
[quoted image]

I have that man thank you so much for responding
It’s actually the frame piece below looks like 1B-480-5

Here’s a pic second picture shows one that’s still there
IMG_5987 (resized).jpegIMG_5987 (resized).jpegIMG_5988 (resized).jpegIMG_5988 (resized).jpeg

#10866 32 days ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

I have that man thank you so much for responding
It’s actually the frame piece below looks like 1B-480-5
Second pic is a bracket that actually there

I guess I used the wrong wording

Here’s a pic [quoted image][quoted image]

#10867 32 days ago

If someone has this part I would love to buy it or I have older Bally stern Gottlieb parts I could trade

#10868 32 days ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

I have that man thank you so much for responding
It’s actually the frame piece below looks like 1B-480-5
Here’s a pic second picture shows one that’s actually still there [quoted image][quoted image]

#10869 32 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

These lift bars break often, probably why yours is MIA. The larger Bally banks use dual reset coils that may help with this issue. I wonder if it's possible to do the same with the Stern 9 bank. I have parts to try it out and will one of these days.

Somewhere in this or the Nine Ball club thread someone has done that.

#10870 32 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

These lift bars break often, probably why yours is MIA. The larger Bally banks use dual reset coils that may help with this issue. I wonder if it's possible to do the same with the Stern 9 bank. I have parts to try it out and will one of these days.

Hmmm interesting

#10871 32 days ago

Without that bottom bracket the plunger just falls right out of the coil

I had no idea It wasn’t there I got the game. I guess I was blinded by the lights so to speak was
Just happy to get the game

This weekend I was gonna start the journey to get it 100% and I was like oh no

#10872 32 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Somewhere in this or the Nine Ball club thread someone has done that.

Not surprised. I missed the last 5 months of this tread and trying to get caught up.

#10874 31 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

I’ve also ordered other products from BeeHive like playfield protectors that have been well made.

Curious about the playfield protectors as I'm considering for Big Game. How hard were they to install over rollover targets? Do I have to strip the entire playfield like a hardtop or can I keep some parts on it? Fine either way I guess, more so curious if the end product is worth the effort. thank you

#10875 31 days ago

Not sure if this is what you are looking for, cause from your pictures I can't tell if its a four or a five bank - but take a look:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1B-480-4

#10876 31 days ago

Picked up a nice Quicksilver recently that's randomly resetting. Doesn't seem tied to anything in particular, just dies and boots right back. I'm presuming that's a power drop to the MPU, but anything else specific that might cause resets I'm not thinking of? Got a plan but it's pretty brute force, hate intermittent stuff like this.

Game looks to be a scratch build - MPU and driver boards are older weebly's, rectifier looks to be one of the Weebly build kits, wire harness looks like it might be from space coast (a single connector was old, which I repined right off). I swapped in a new rectifier, figuring the soldering looks a little sloppy on the self build one so maybe that's it - now it's went from every couple of games to really rare...twice in maybe 40 games yesterday. I'm guessing it's a bad crimp on the harness with bad solder joint somewhere in the old rect too, and am gonna do some targeted repining today...hate having to do what look to be brand new connectors, but c'est la vie.

#10877 31 days ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

I am in need of the lift bracket for a nine ball drop target assembly
By chance if anyone sees this would sell me the bracket or the assembly in full, that would be amazing. Just realize my nine ball does not have this bracket.
If anybody knows of any way I can make something work for it would be greatly appreciated

You need the lift bracket for a Nine Ball drop assembly is how I am reading all of this.

Here is your solution.

You need 3 each of these 4 bank lift brackets ( 2 4-banks cannot be stretched into one 9-bank.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1B-484-4

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

You will have to cut 2 of them. Make one a right side and one a left side. You will need to cut very close to the ends just cut off the the hole on the left end of one bracket and the right end of the other bracket.

The 3rd bracket will be your sacrifice bracket that will be cut into pieces need to splice both of the other 2 pieces together. You need to clamp and bond all this together. I suppose you can use JB Weld. I like a product called PC-11, or you can even use the brown Gorilla Glue which is excellent for bonding metals together.

Get ready to sepnd some money. $33.00 worth of parts, plus shipping. And PC-11 is around $20.00 per kit.

There is this small kit.

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/tape-glues-and-adhesives/glues-and-epoxy/1002773?store=15368&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwmrqzBhAoEiwAXVpgon7YfPI71y8EBysHcrf8khgqZ3wgNHsfBAPEpOsX_CoURRVCYccVmxoCuWkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Screen Shot 2024-06-16 at 8.07.28 AM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2024-06-16 at 8.07.28 AM (resized).jpg

You can also find a local weld shop to weld it together for you.

There is also the other style of lift bracket if you prefer this style. The advantage with this style is that the pivot/lifting arms are part of the bracket.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1B-484-3

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

Either style will work ( No BS. I have spliced together both styles. ), but you will need a cut off wheel to remove a lot of material from the 2nd style.

If you need more detail, ask here or send a PM.

EDIT: I read what you needed incorrectly. For anyone who reads this and needs to splice together a lift bar, if you use the 2nd style with the built in pivots, you will also need to get some Nyliner bushings. You will need 2 each.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-8790-2

detail (resized).jpgdetail (resized).jpg

#10878 31 days ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

I have that man thank you so much for responding
It’s actually the frame piece below looks like 1B-480-5
Here’s a pic second picture shows one that’s still there
[quoted image][quoted image]

Seems like it is the bottom piece that you need? I’ve have that from a Flight 2000 which I believe is the same huge drop target bank.

PM me and I can hook you up.
IMG_3046 (resized).jpegIMG_3046 (resized).jpegIMG_3047 (resized).jpegIMG_3047 (resized).jpeg

#10879 31 days ago
Quoted from emsrph:

I’ve have that from a Flight 2000 which I believe is the same huge drop target bank.

+1

#10880 31 days ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Seems like it is the bottom piece that you need? I’ve have that from a Flight 2000 which I believe is the same huge drop target bank.
PM me and I can hook you up.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Dude!
Message sent

#10881 31 days ago

I dont know what to say thank you

#10882 31 days ago
Quoted from splattii:

Curious about the playfield protectors as I'm considering for Big Game. How hard were they to install over rollover targets? Do I have to strip the entire playfield like a hardtop or can I keep some parts on it? Fine either way I guess, more so curious if the end product is worth the effort. thank you

Pretty easy, remove the spinners/gates, pop caps, and flippers. I recommend cutting a V shape in the protector at the bottom of all the star rollovers so the ball can't get stuck on the lip.

Older runs of big game have flat metal inlane guides that mount to the side rails, newer runs have wire guides, so an older big game will need the lane guide mounts removed as well.

#10883 31 days ago
Quoted from Jahkub:

I recommend cutting a V shape in the protector at the bottom of all the star rollovers so the ball can't get stuck on the lip

Great advise. Although I did not did that with my homemade protector and had no issues.

#10884 31 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Great advise. Although I did not did that with my homemade protector and had no issues.

I had it on location and didn't want to take the chance.

#10885 31 days ago

Dragonfist got some more attention today. The cabinet is nearing completion. I am just waiting for the white to dry before putting on the legs, door and side rails. It still needs a couple more days. Oil-based paint takes a long time to dry.

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#10886 31 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Dragonfist got some more attention today. The cabinet is nearing completion. I am just waiting for the white to dry before putting on the legs, door and side rails. It still needs a couple more days. Oil-based paint takes a long time to dry.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Did you use Pinball Pimp stencils of just use measurements?

#10887 31 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Did you use Pinball Pimp stencils of just use measurements?

I used the stencils.

#10888 30 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Dragonfist got some more attention today. The cabinet is nearing completion. I am just waiting for the white to dry before putting on the legs, door and side rails. It still needs a couple more days. Oil-based paint takes a long time to dry.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great game!

#10889 30 days ago

I hope so. I can't recall ever playing it.

The mounting brackets and boards went in today.

20240617_195311 (resized).jpg20240617_195311 (resized).jpg
#10890 29 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I hope so. I can't recall ever playing it.

[quoted image]

If I hadn't played it up at the Ann Arbor VFW, I wouldn't be going down the rabbit hole of building one either. It is that good.

#10891 29 days ago

44v at the left flipper button switch. Quicksilver.

Left flipper died. EOS (normally closed) was not making contact, corrected, back to normal. I happened to touch that leaf switch and got a friendly tingle while fiddling there though. Multimeter read 44v/solenoid voltage. After fixing the EOS, the voltage was gone at that leaf.

I wouldn't think the voltage at the button leaf switch could be related to the EOS, guessing that's coincidence? Seems like if I'm getting solenoid voltage there it would have to be coming back from the SDU, maybe a failing diode in front of the flipper relay, other thoughts? It's gone now, but this seems like something I need to sort before it creeps up again.

#10892 29 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I used the stencils.

This is a game that's screaming for someone to do custom two color Bruce Lee stencils ala quick silver at the very least. VFW this year got me wanting to build one too when my que clears up.

#10893 29 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

This is a game that's screaming for someone to do custom two color Bruce Lee stencils ala quick silver at the very least. VFW this year got me wanting to build one too when my que clears up.

I plan on at least changing the cab colors when I make mine.

#10894 29 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

This is a game that's screaming for someone to do custom two color Bruce Lee stencils ala quick silver at the very least. VFW this year got me wanting to build one too when my que clears up.

I would like to have a graphic of Lee hanging in midair.

dragon-the-bruce-lee-story-1993-a-sarkany-bruce-lee-elete-alt-jason-DD5TTG (resized).jpgdragon-the-bruce-lee-story-1993-a-sarkany-bruce-lee-elete-alt-jason-DD5TTG (resized).jpg

#10895 29 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

This is a game that's screaming for someone to do custom two color Bruce Lee stencils ala quick silver at the very least. VFW this year got me wanting to build one too when my que clears up.

I liked playing my Dragonfist before I sent the play field off to Mirco, 4-5 years ago.

I also have a Catacomb. I prefer Catacomb over DF, but I know someone else who prefers DF over Catacomb.

#10896 29 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I liked playing my Dragonfist before I sent the play field off to Mirco, 4-5 years ago.
I also have a Catacomb. I prefer Catacomb over DF, but I know someone else who prefers DF over Catacomb.

Catacomb is a math problem, Dragonfist is a reflex problem.

I've got everything but the cab for catacomb sitting right now. Planning to send my Dracula off to Fantastic for repro as soon as I get time to strip it, then throw cat in there for the time being.

#10897 29 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

Catacomb is a math problem

Only if you have the Magic Square numbers in the bonus (toast ) section. Get the A-B-C-D bonus play field and no more math problem

I wish mine was the A-B-C-D play field.

#10898 29 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

Catacomb is a math problem

Kind of like Bally's Spectrum. You have to think.

#10899 28 days ago

My lift bar has been broken on my F2K for at least 20 years. It was held together with zip ties when we got it. A few years back I had to remove them to do some work on the drops. I just put new ones back on. I figure if they held for 40 years it must be a pretty solid field repair. Works like a charm. 15609008675231540876519191884914 (resized).jpg15609008675231540876519191884914 (resized).jpg

#10900 27 days ago

Got one from Steve at the Resource years ago. If you want a new one, might try giving him a call.

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