(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

5 years ago


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#10501 64 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I favor translucent inserts as opposed to the clear that Stern used. I have been thinking the cloudy white plastic of a gallon milk jug might do that trick. It would be cheap to try.

But this window material has a sticky side.

ebay.com link: itm

image (resized).pngimage (resized).png

#10502 64 days ago

Both those are interesting ideas. Looks like that film has a little texture, might look a bit funny lit. I actually flirted with just leaving the film on the backside of the acrylics, but it gave the lighting a textured look too.

#10503 64 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I favor translucent inserts as opposed to the clear that Stern used. I have been thinking the cloudy white plastic of a gallon milk jug might do that trick. It would be cheap to try.

Why I went with an orange starburst on my Flash Gordon instead of the orange clear. I hated looking down and seeing the bulb.

20240213_133626 (resized).jpg20240213_133626 (resized).jpg
#10504 64 days ago

Sold

#10505 64 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Why I went with an orange starburst on my Flash Gordon instead of the orange clear. I hated looking down and seeing the bulb.
[quoted image]

Yeah, I thought about that for the arrows but most seemed to be outta stock, and I like the opaque look best since I'm cutting anyway. Though with yopps I may wind up wiring a second light to each; found that looked a lot better for the yellow arrows on Seawitch. Lights well, but a little uneven with one. Or maybe just stick with sockets and comets; half the sockets need work so it's probably the same work and expense either way all said.

#10506 64 days ago

While I'm fussing with this stuff, is there any interest in plastic protectors for some of these? I'm probably going to at least do the slings on my games since most are the same size. Might do a full set for the ones I'm working on if it's not too much aggravation getting files together. Can't recall seeing anyone making that stuff for classics, not necessary but can be a nice touch.

#10507 64 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

I'm probably going to at least do the slings on my games since most are the same size.

Not all Stern sling plastics have the same profile.

#10508 64 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Not all Stern sling plastics have the same profile.

True, but just at a glance it sure looks like most of them are. I haven't taken them out to confirm 100%, but my drac, Seawitch, and lightning all look like the same slings. Regardless, seems like I ought to be able to find a simple way to get the plastic shapes into corel to send to the laser. Kinda having fun just figuring out what to do with it...thought about working up some led lit acrylic toppers for giggles.

I need to stop coming up with new projects, lol.

#10509 64 days ago

Next on nine ball .

The plunge is horrid. It's got a custom shooter rod with a Nine ball on the end, so I'm wondering if it's not the correct length?
20240212_202019 (resized).jpg20240212_202019 (resized).jpg20240212_202025 (resized).jpg20240212_202025 (resized).jpg

#10510 64 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Next on nine ball .
The plunge is horrid. It's got a custom shooter rod with a Nine ball on the end, so I'm wondering if it's not the correct length?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah, def looks short. I don't know the length of the top of my head but I do know classics have a dif rod length than newer games. You might make sure there aren't any extra washers on the handle side; removing those if so l might give you just enough reach for a good kick. And if the plunge gets there but is really limp,.going up a few levels in spring power will probably get you there. There are like 6 dif strengths, color coded, and PBL carries them all for maybe a buck each tops. Worth picking up one or two of each to have on hand to test on new games.

#10511 64 days ago

Order a Gottlieb EM shooter, it's longer.

#10512 63 days ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

LOL no, I know what an e clip is. What is the metal piece, screwed into the backbox, that the e clip is holding the backbox strap to?

Stud and Bracket.
With shim washers fallowed by the E-Clip.

#10513 63 days ago

Looking for a lockdown bar for a star pinball machine. Picked up a beater game and it come with one. Thanks

#10514 63 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Next on nine ball .
The plunge is horrid. It's got a custom shooter rod with a Nine ball on the end, so I'm wondering if it's not the correct length?
[quoted image][quoted image]

On my Nine Ball that switch hits the plunger rubber and I can't get it to adjust correctly.

#10515 63 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

Yeah, def looks short. I don't know the length of the top of my head but I do know classics have a dif rod length than newer games. You might make sure there aren't any extra washers on the handle side; removing those if so l might give you just enough reach for a good kick. And if the plunge gets there but is really limp,.going up a few levels in spring power will probably get you there. There are like 6 dif strengths, color coded, and PBL carries them all for maybe a buck each tops. Worth picking up one or two of each to have on hand to test on new games.

I've ordered another spring. The shooter is powerful but it doesn't have the finese of other games plunges. It makes the skillshot more luck than timing.

I considered removing a washer but shouldn't one be protecting the beehive thing from damage from the barrel spring?

#10516 63 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

I've ordered another spring. The shooter is powerful but it doesn't have the finese of other games plunges. It makes the skillshot more luck than timing.
I considered removing a washer but shouldn't one be protecting the beehive thing from damage from the barrel spring?

Yeah, there's one there by default - though it's not really necessary imo. Playing with the springs can make a big difference - going up one or two tensions usually surprises me.

It could be straight up too short - I know there are at least three lengths used across manufacturers. I feel like classic stern was shorter, not longer though. Probably just a lame spring.

#10517 62 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Next on nine ball .
The plunge is horrid. It's got a custom shooter rod with a Nine ball on the end, so I'm wondering if it's not the correct length?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Catacomb.

IMG_5025 (resized).JPGIMG_5025 (resized).JPG

Big Game

IMG_5027 (resized).JPGIMG_5027 (resized).JPG

Nine Ball

IMG_5026 (resized).JPGIMG_5026 (resized).JPG

When I got my Catacomb, it had a short shooter rod that was not cutting it.

#10518 62 days ago
Quoted from Methos:

On my Nine Ball that switch hits the plunger rubber and I can't get it to adjust correctly.

Can you post a picture?

#10519 61 days ago

Figured out a fairly efficient way to generate files for plastic protectors and the like. Does turn out Lightning has larger sling plastics, though Seawitch and Dracula are the same. I'll check meteor tomorrow, but pretty sure it's the same too. Would be curious if anyone with pairs of other games with the basic along configuration could check sizes. I don't know how much interest there is, but it looks like most are the same size, so when I fit them for Seawitch next I'll likely be able to do them for most games. Think I'm gonna do fluorescent yellow on lightning (this is green), maybe do a full set if I find time. Will probably do a set for my Seawitch in light blue too.

PXL_20240216_223848919 (resized).jpgPXL_20240216_223848919 (resized).jpg

It'll be a couple weeks on those big blues; I went to cut them today and pulled the wrong file, wasted most of the blue I had left. Ordered another sheet but will be a week. In the meantime, I figure most aren't in a hurry, but if there's anyone planning to put them in right away, reach out and I have a couple ready I can send.

#10520 61 days ago

Thanks all for the shooter rod thoughts. Seems it is shooter. I have put an orange wpc spring in its better but probably not ideal.

Does anyone know the reason behind the strange scoring on nine ball? The 77k super bonus and 173k loop value are strange numbers, is there a reason?

#10521 60 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Stud and Bracket.
With shim washers fallowed by the E-Clip.

Thank you!

#10522 60 days ago

Refinishing a set of Stern legs and a coin door…..how many spray cans of Rustoleum hammered silver are typically needed? Thx

#10523 60 days ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Refinishing a set of Stern legs and a coin door…..how many spray cans of Rustoleum hammered silver are typically needed? Thx

I think you could do a complete set of legs and coin door with one can. For the insides of the legs all you need to do is some some color on to protect the steel from surface rust.

#10524 60 days ago

Working on a Nine Ball project and there are some issues I am stuck on.

The game was mostly working, until I started to adjust switch #40 - due to the plunger rod was hitting the tip of the switch when a ball was launched. I noticed the game was kicking out balls while another was still in play and I think I know how but now why.

This is what is occuring:

Upon self test, when all switches are open, "4" flashes on the credit/ball count display (not the player displays which indicate a switch is closed). As soon as I activate another switch, it goes away. When all switches are open, the 4 flashes again.

Now - when I activate switch 40 (lane guide), the 5 ball target activates/drops.
When I activate switch 37 (2nd ball trough), the 1 ball target activates/drops
When I activate switch 36 (1st ball trough), the 2nd ball target activates/drops
When I activate switch 39 (2nd lock switch), the 4th ball target activates/drops
When I activate switch 38 (1st lock switch), the 3rd ball target activates/drops

Any suggestion on what could be causing this odd behavior? The game has a Weebly CPU board. All tests points are good, except I lost sound and my audit #s are way off.

I'm not sure where to go to next. Any suggestions?

#10525 60 days ago

I've got an issue with my Lectronamo. Just turned it on, and no displays came on at all. No flashing on MPU at all. Figured it was an MPU issue (it's an original, and came with acid damage when I got it a few weeks ago, but has worked fine).

Tried using an NVRAM.Weebly.com board as a replacement, but still no dice. The test light just comes on, and stays lit, on the weebly board.

Anyone have any ideas?

#10526 60 days ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

I've got an issue with my Lectronamo. Just turned it on, and no displays came on at all. No flashing on MPU at all. Figured it was an MPU issue (it's an original, and came with acid damage when I got it a few weeks ago, but has worked fine).
Tried using an NVRAM.Weebly.com board as a replacement, but still no dice. The test light just comes on, and stays lit, on the weebly board.
Anyone have any ideas?

Is the high voltage fuse on the rectifier board blown?

#10528 60 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Is the high voltage fuse on the rectifier board blown?

Would that be F2, the 190V line, with the 3/4 amp slo-blow fuse? The fuse looks fine (I know that doesn't count), but of course that's one of the few fuses I don't have handy to swap in. I did replace F3 and F5, with no change.

Quoted from supermoot:

Are the voltages all good?

Unsure how to check that. Not a total n00b, but really not good with electronics yet.

#10529 60 days ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

I've got an issue with my Lectronamo. Just turned it on, and no displays came on at all. No flashing on MPU at all. Figured it was an MPU issue (it's an original, and came with acid damage when I got it a few weeks ago, but has worked fine).
Tried using an NVRAM.Weebly.com board as a replacement, but still no dice. The test light just comes on, and stays lit, on the weebly board.
Anyone have any ideas?

...I should note, the green light on the Weebly MPU comes on, it just doesn't flash at all.

#10530 60 days ago
Quoted from Methos:

Working on a Nine Ball project and there are some issues I am stuck on.
The game was mostly working, until I started to adjust switch #40 - due to the plunger rod was hitting the tip of the switch when a ball was launched. I noticed the game was kicking out balls while another was still in play and I think I know how but now why.
This is what is occuring:
Upon self test, when all switches are open, "4" flashes on the credit/ball count display (not the player displays which indicate a switch is closed). As soon as I activate another switch, it goes away. When all switches are open, the 4 flashes again.
Now - when I activate switch 40 (lane guide), the 5 ball target activates/drops.
When I activate switch 37 (2nd ball trough), the 1 ball target activates/drops
When I activate switch 36 (1st ball trough), the 2nd ball target activates/drops
When I activate switch 39 (2nd lock switch), the 4th ball target activates/drops
When I activate switch 38 (1st lock switch), the 3rd ball target activates/drops
Any suggestion on what could be causing this odd behavior? The game has a Weebly CPU board. All tests points are good, except I lost sound and my audit #s are way off.
I'm not sure where to go to next. Any suggestions?

All of the five switches you mention are on the Y-R wire column. All of the targets being activated are on the BWN-W wire column.

Nine Ball wire 3 (resized).jpegNine Ball wire 3 (resized).jpeg

Here is my Joe Shade Tree way of trying to trouble shoot this problem.

1) You can start digging around on both of these wires and hope you can see something that looks amiss.

Or

PHASE #1

2) Remove the switches connector from MPU A4- J2 connector.

3) Make yourself a long jumper wire with a .100 pin crimped on.

4) Pull the BRN/W wire from A4-J2-pin 2 connector.
4A) Replace that BRN-W wire with your jumper wire.

5) Install your jumper wire directly to the BRN-W wire common connection on the drop assembly.

(Essentially, you have just replaced the BRW-W wire on the play field ).

6) Replace the connector back on the MPU.

If your problem goes away, then you have a problem of some sort with the BRN-W wire that is connected to the switches.

If doing any of the above did not isolate your problem, then replace the BRN-W wire into the connector.

And move to PHASE #2

7) Remove the Y-R wire from A4-J2 pin 5.
7A) Replace that Y-R wire with your jumper wire.

8 ) Clip your jumper wire to switch #40 and see if you are still activating drop #5.

9 ) Do the same for the four remaining switches.

Somewhere on these two wires you have a problem.

I will not guarantee it, but the above exercise should help you isolate where you need to look.

I talked about doing something like this awhile back. And then I had the "opportunity" to go hunting for a problem I ran into.

By removing the column wires one at a time, I was able to isolate my problem to something with the W-BLU wire. So, knowing this I was able to concentrate my poking around to the W-BLU wire. I can't recall what the problem was, but by figuring out which wire I needed to look at, it only took me about 2 minutes to find my problem, fix it, and move on.

This is Joe Shade Tree speaking. You can laugh all you want but it is no different from an auto mechanic pulling fuses from the fuse box on your car to try and knock down the number of areas that need to be looked at.

You can do everything above in less than 20 minutes.

Try this and let us know what you find.

#10531 60 days ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Would that be F2, the 190V line, with the 3/4 amp slo-blow fuse? The fuse looks fine (I know that doesn't count), but of course that's one of the few fuses I don't have handy to swap in. I did replace F3 and F5, with no change.

Unsure how to check that. Not a total n00b, but really not good with electronics yet.

Get a multimeter if you don't have one.

Figure out how to set it to continuity. Pull each fuse out of the machine, check continuity from one end to the other. If you don't get continuity, you have a bad fuse.

If they are all good, figure out how to use the multimeter to check voltage. For DC voltage, wedge the black lead under the ground braid. Red lead goes to whatever you want to see voltage on. AC is a little more complicated, start with DC and get more comfortable reading schematics before checking AC.

Pull the schematics online, there will be a page for each board. Start with the rectifier (power) board. Look for the test points on it, labeled TP1, TP2, etc. There will be voltage for each listed on the schematic. Find them o. The board (often TPs are wire loops coming off the board) - see if they match what is listed. Note that if it's listed as AC rather than DC, the reading will be wrong if you test it like DC.

If that tests good, do the same on the MPU test points. From what you are describing, you almost certainly have a power issue. When/if you find a bad voltage, report back.

If it was working fine, there's a good chance it's a connector issue. Try pulling all the connectors off the rectifier board and then reattach; might just start working, and if so, you need to repin the connectors.

#10532 60 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

All of the five switches you mention are on the Y-R wire run. All of the targets being activated are on the BWN-W wire run.
[quoted image]
Here is my Joe Shade Tree way of trying to trouble shoot this problem.
1) You can start digging around on both of these wires and hope you can see something that looks amiss.
Or
PHASE #1
2) Remove the switches connector from MPU A4- J2 connector.
3) Make yourself a long jumper wire with a .100 pin crimped on.
4) Pull the BRN/W wire from A4-J2-pin 2 connector.
5) Install your jumper wire directly to the BRN-W wire common connection on the drop assembly.
(Essentially, you have just replaced the BRW-W wire on the play field ).
6) Replace the connector back on the MPU.
If your problem goes away, then you have a problem of some sort with the BRN-W wire that is connected to the switches.
If doing any of the above did not isolate your problem, then replace the BRN-W wire into the connector.
And move to PHASE #2
6) Remove the Y-R wire from A4-J2 pin 5.
7) Clip you jump wire to switch #40 and see if you are still activating drop #5.
8 ) Do the same for the four remaining switches.
Somewhere on these two wires you have a problem.
I will not guarantee it, but the above exercise should help you isolate where you need to look.
I talked about doing something like this awhile back. And then I had the "opportunity" to go hunting for a problem I ran into.
By removing the column wires one at a time, I was able to isolate my problem to something with the W-BLU wire. So, knowing this I was able to concentrate my poking around to the BLU-W wire. I can't recall what the problem was, but by figuring out which wire I needed to look at, it only took me about 2 minutes to find my problem, fix it, and move on.
This is Joe Shade Tree speaking. You can laugh all you want but it is no different from an auto mechanic pulling fuses from the fuse box on your car to try and knock down the number of areas that need to be looked at.
You can do everything above in less than 20 minutes.
Try this and let us know what you find.

Thank you! I’ll get to work and report back.

#10533 58 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

Get a multimeter if you don't have one.
Figure out how to set it to continuity. Pull each fuse out of the machine, check continuity from one end to the other. If you don't get continuity, you have a bad fuse.
If they are all good, figure out how to use the multimeter to check voltage. For DC voltage, wedge the black lead under the ground braid. Red lead goes to whatever you want to see voltage on. AC is a little more complicated, start with DC and get more comfortable reading schematics before checking AC.
Pull the schematics online, there will be a page for each board. Start with the rectifier (power) board. Look for the test points on it, labeled TP1, TP2, etc. There will be voltage for each listed on the schematic. Find them o. The board (often TPs are wire loops coming off the board) - see if they match what is listed. Note that if it's listed as AC rather than DC, the reading will be wrong if you test it like DC.
If that tests good, do the same on the MPU test points. From what you are describing, you almost certainly have a power issue. When/if you find a bad voltage, report back.
If it was working fine, there's a good chance it's a connector issue. Try pulling all the connectors off the rectifier board and then reattach; might just start working, and if so, you need to repin the connectors.

Thanks for this!

I feel like I've been on cusp of actually understanding all this stuff for like, 4 years now. Simple guides like yours really help me—so I much appreciate this step-by-step message. Awesome.

Turns out, there's something wrong with the driver board. All test points on the rectifier were good, but all of them on the driver board were not. I tried screwing around with the connectors, but to no avail.

Plugged in a brand new driver board, and everything is cool. So now I need to figure out how to fix the driver board, get a replacement, or ship this one off to Chris Hibler, ha.

Again, thanks for your help!

#10534 58 days ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Thanks for this!
I feel like I've been on cusp of actually understanding all this stuff for like, 4 years now. Simple guides like yours really help me—so I much appreciate this step-by-step message. Awesome.
Turns out, there's something wrong with the driver board. All test points on the rectifier were good, but all of them on the driver board were not. I tried screwing around with the connectors, but to no avail.
Plugged in a brand new driver board, and everything is cool. So now I need to figure out how to fix the driver board, get a replacement, or ship this one off to Chris Hibler, ha.
Again, thanks for your help!

All right, maybe I spoke too soon.

Left the game on, and came back to it an hour later to the displays being off.

Turned off, turned on: screeching from the speaker. Like it's trying to play a couple sounds at the same time, but not stopping.

A few power cycles later, and it's working again.

Does that suggest a short somewhere? Not sure how to diagnose this one...!

#10535 58 days ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

All right, maybe I spoke too soon.
Left the game on, and came back to it an hour later to the displays being off.
Turned off, turned on: screeching from the speaker. Like it's trying to play a couple sounds at the same time, but not stopping.
A few power cycles later, and it's working again.
Does that suggest a short somewhere? Not sure how to diagnose this one...!

You have a connector issue most likely. One or more of the connectors is not making a good connection with the pins on your board. When you first reseated, you got unlucky and just repeated the bad connection. When you changed boards, you reseated connectors again and got lucky, fixed it. It sat there and something shifted enough to cause problems.

Repin the connectors attached to the driver board and you'll most likely be GTG. Do the whole game while you're at it. You'll need 0.156 trifurcon connectors for the larger white connectors, 0.100 for the smaller brown ones. You'll also need a molex crimp tool; $20-30 on Amazon.

The pins hold in the molex connector with a tiny metal tab that locks them; one side of the connector you'll note has a channel where you can see the metal pin. Use a precision screwdriver to press the little tab down while pushing the wire back - should pop out the wire easily. Snip off the old trifurcon, strip a little, crimp a new one, pop it back in the connector until it locks. Do one wire at a time so you don't get confused and wire anything in wrong to the connector. Repeat a couple hundred times until the game is done; tedious, but easy after the first couple.

Other possibilities include a bad wire from the rectifier to the driver board; not a short but a break within the insulation, where it will sometimes provide continuity and sometimes not. Uncommon issue, but if repining doesn't fix it you can check each wire for continuity just like a fuse - insert one pin in each end of the connector, but also jostle the wire while testing to see if continuity gets lost positionally. Again, this is fairly uncommon; start with repining as that's best practice in these old games even if they are working fine.

#10536 58 days ago

I would add that, if you are using old boards, it really only makes sense to redo the actual pin rows on the board while you are at this. Corrosion, failing plating, but most of all cracked solder joints.

Yes, you can re-flow the connectors, but with a good desoldering station you can pull the entire row and replace with fresh pins AND give it a proper solder job for only marginally more effort. (Of course, you need a desoldering station to do this safely and efficiently, but once you have one, you’ll find yourself using it not just for board work.)

Like I say all the time - these components are 40+ years old and were intended to last for maybe 3-4 years. They’re all on borrowed time, so investing in the cheap, relatively easy stuff is always a good idea.

Obviously the replacement boards don’t need this, but it won’t hurt to do this on your original sound board.

#10537 58 days ago

Appreciate the advice, sethbenjamin & Ollulanus — I've done a bit of re-pinning, and replacing connectors, so I feel comfortable taking all that on. Gonna have to get to it. Thank you for the advice!

#10538 58 days ago

I've fixed a few displays but can't figure out this issue.
One of the segments is always on, but not properly. It still fully lights when needed but there's often this glowing bit

Sometime it's fine on boot but the issue appears later.
I've tested the components in that segments circuit and they test ok.

#10539 58 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

I would add that, if you are using old boards, it really only makes sense to redo the actual pin rows on the board while you are at this. Corrosion, failing plating, but most of all cracked solder joints.
Yes, you can re-flow the connectors, but with a good desoldering station you can pull the entire row and replace with fresh pins AND give it a proper solder job for only marginally more effort. (Of course, you need a desoldering station to do this safely and efficiently, but once you have one, you’ll find yourself using it not just for board work.)
Like I say all the time - these components are 40+ years old and were intended to last for maybe 3-4 years. They’re all on borrowed time, so investing in the cheap, relatively easy stuff is always a good idea.
Obviously the replacement boards don’t need this, but it won’t hurt to do this on your original sound board.

Agreed, though it's a fair bit more to learn than the connectors, and I find the pins *usually* are ok. This is a great little station for the price:

YIHUA 948D III Soldering Iron Desoldering Station Kit with Upgraded Desolder Tool, 110W EVO Solder Iron, Vacuum Pump, 3 Desoldering Nozzles, with Automatic Shutdown, Sleep Mode Functions. https://a.co/d/8EOBW8M

#10540 58 days ago

I use an AOYUE Int474A station.
It’s simple and cheap, I think I paid around $130 for it. Works beautifully. I use balls of coarse steel wool for filter replacements and keep it clean. Total workhorse. Eliminates a lot of barriers to doing a more thorough job.

Also makes it much easier to do solder work on old coils where hideous work was previously performed - just suck out all that crusty old solder and start with a fresh, clean coil lug.

#10541 57 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Also makes it much easier to do solder work on old coils where hideous work was previously performed - just suck out all that crusty old solder and start with a fresh, clean coil lug.

Shoot, that's a great thought. Adding that to my new project to do list.

#10542 57 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

One of the segments is always on, but not properly. It still fully lights when needed but there's often this glowing bit

Swap the segment drive transistor with another and see if it follows the transistor. Otherwise try replacing the 4543 decoder chip.

#10543 57 days ago

Anyone have a star post count for stargazer by chance? Stocking up parts for the build.

Also not sure if it NEEDS the taller posts anywhere? Was thinking I might do blue metallic or chrome ones if not.

#10544 57 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

Anyone have a star post count for stargazer by chance? Stocking up parts for the build.
Also not sure if it NEEDS the taller posts anywhere? Was thinking I might do blue metallic or chrome ones if not.

You need taller posts at the spinners and slings.

#10545 55 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

True, but just at a glance it sure looks like most of them are. I haven't taken them out to confirm 100%, but my drac, Seawitch, and lightning all look like the same slings. Regardless, seems like I ought to be able to find a simple way to get the plastic shapes into corel to send to the laser. Kinda having fun just figuring out what to do with it...thought about working up some led lit acrylic toppers for giggles.
I need to stop coming up with new projects, lol.

My wife made me acrylic protectors for F2K. If I recall we went with 1/8 inch larger so they sit slightly out from the original and provide more protection. They look great.

#10546 51 days ago

can someone remind me which game can i set my weebly on to test ALL active switch on my 9B? it is being difficult with some weird ball ending, kicking out of 2 balls at seemingly random times

#10547 51 days ago

Big Game should work.

#10548 51 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

can someone remind me which game can i set my weebly on to test ALL active switch on my 9B? it is being difficult with some weird ball ending, kicking out of 2 balls at seemingly random times

The test rom that's included will do so as well as the updated big game .... 9b itself with the new software didn't have room for it IIRC.

#10549 50 days ago

Ah, makes sense on the spinners. Though, I'm sure I could tweak the height another way if I wanted to.

Quoted from cottonm4:

You need taller posts at the spinners and slings.

Makes sense on the spinners, though there are other ways to add height...now that I think of it, adding plastic protectors and silicone washers is going to have some effect on the spin I should prolly account for anyway.

#10550 50 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

Ah, makes sense on the spinners. Though, I'm sure I could tweak the height another way if I wanted to.

Makes sense on the spinners, though there are other ways to add height...now that I think of it, adding plastic protectors and silicone washers is going to have some effect on the spin I should prolly account for anyway.

A short post measures 1 inch tall. The tall post measures 1 3/16 inch tall. if you are coming up from the bottom of the play field with a post stud/carriage bolt, you can lock a short post down with a #6 elastic stop nut and get the tall post height you need.

I have also ground 3/16" from the top of a tall post to make a short post when I needed a short post.

All I can say is you want the ball hitting as close to the lower edge of the spinner as possible.

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