Ann Arbor, MI
Quoted from Mitch:Looking like 6 years atleast lol. All I have is time. I'm only 33
Watch out for kids. Apparently, it's a big time soak. 
(Topic ID: 225496)
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Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980-
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Stern Electronics, 1980
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Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
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Cheetah
Stern Electronics, 1980
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Cosmic Princess
Stern Electronics, 1979
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Dracula
Stern Electronics, 1979
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Dragonfist
Stern Electronics, 1981
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Flight 2000
Stern Electronics, 1980
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Wellesley, ON
I'm not a pro but i made up some graphics for a waterslide you are welcome to. Just paint the section over with the various colors, I recommend a good thick oil based cabinet paint like corrostop or even a rustoleum, then cut out waterslides and lay on top. Give it a shot or two of clear and you are good to go.
Dracula waterslide (resized).pngQuoted from SuperPinball:I'm not a pro but i made up some graphics for a waterslide you are welcome to. Just paint the section over with the various colors, I recommend a good thick oil based cabinet paint like corrostop or even a rustoleum, then cut out waterslides and lay on top. Give it a shot or two of clear and you are good to go.[quoted image]
Great resource. Thanks for those! How do we get that flagged for a key post in here?
Just to really prove they did it totally at random...
My Big Game and F2K do not have the side supports
My Trident and Split Second both have side supports.
I've never had the support rails on any of my classic sterns. (Meteor x 3, big game, seawitch, stars, quicksilver, stargazer x 2)
Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:Next Victim after Dracula is done.....
Just started cleaning it up tonight with magic eraser to see what I have to work with......
[quoted image]
Hey!!! I know that playfield! Glad to see it get used after all of these years. http://www.papinball.com/meteor/before/index.html
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:Hey!!! I know that playfield! Glad to see it get used after all of these years. http://www.papinball.com/meteor/before/index.html
That's right, I had forgotten he had gotten this off of you. I think I traded him a Xenon PF for it, I don't remember exact details as I also got a Stingray PF from him as well. Maybe I traded my old Playboy PF for it. Who knows. It cleaned up pretty nice, & I think will be fairly easy touch up deal & then onto the high gloss treatment. LOL
Quoted from Alan_L:On my Hot Hand, the feature lamps glow at the proper brightness during Attract mode and gameplay. But in Test mode they are much dimmer. Is this by design or a problem?
Design.
Quoted from cottonm4:We use 1 1/16" balls so 1/2 is .55 inch.
is that smaller then the standard size or something?
Quoted from heme:is that smaller then the standard size or something?
I did not write that very well, did I ? Standard size is 1 1/16"
I'll post pics soon but finally getting most of my sterns up on legs and getting them running.
Meteor is pretty much done for now with a big thanks to @cottonm4.
Stargazer is playable but rough. All the rest are untested or non booting but I will get it done. Almost all of them are hacked severely at the rectifier boards so most will be receiving new rectifier boards and rebuild the connector side.
My big push is on star gazer , quicksilver and seawitch.
Quicksilver is rough. It's back on its legs for what seems to be the first time in a long time.
Checked voltages at the rectifier board some are off and hacked so I pulled the transformer board today as it's way easier to replace or repair the rectifier boards on the bench.
Stargazer same issue same fix as quicksilver for now.
Seawitch is actually booting and playing with a new cpu. Needs a good clean and I need to replace some drop targets and the spinner then it should be done.... for now.
Quoted from Mitch:I'll post pics soon but finally getting most of my sterns up on legs and getting them running.
Meteor is pretty much done for now with a big thanks to cottonm4.
Stargazer is playable but rough. All the rest are untested or non booting but I will get it done. Almost all of them are hacked severely at the rectifier boards so most will be receiving new rectifier boards and rebuild the connector side.
My big push is on star gazer , quicksilver and seawitch.
Quicksilver is rough. It's back on its legs for what seems to be the first time in a long time.
Checked voltages at the rectifier board some are off and hacked so I pulled the transformer board today as it's way easier to replace or repair the rectifier boards on the bench.
Stargazer same issue same fix as quicksilver for now.
Seawitch is actually booting and playing with a new cpu. Needs a good clean and I need to replace some drop targets and the spinner then it should be done.... for now.
I'd love to see a thread on how you found all those classics in such a short period, what condition they're in, and updates as you bring them online.
Quoted from Mitch:I'll post pics soon but finally getting most of my sterns up on legs and getting them running.
Meteor is pretty much done for now with a big thanks to cottonm4.
Stargazer is playable but rough. All the rest are untested or non booting but I will get it done. Almost all of them are hacked severely at the rectifier boards so most will be receiving new rectifier boards and rebuild the connector side.
My big push is on star gazer , quicksilver and seawitch.
Quicksilver is rough. It's back on its legs for what seems to be the first time in a long time.
Checked voltages at the rectifier board some are off and hacked so I pulled the transformer board today as it's way easier to replace or repair the rectifier boards on the bench.
Stargazer same issue same fix as quicksilver for now.
Seawitch is actually booting and playing with a new cpu. Needs a good clean and I need to replace some drop targets and the spinner then it should be done.... for now.
Nice man. I really have to get over to your place soon and check out the action.
Quoted from Willathrilla:I'd love to see a thread on how you found all those classics in such a short period, what condition they're in, and updates as you bring them online.
money and ambulance chasing ! and lots of hard work . 
Spinner tuning post in the seawitch thread I made in response to a guy who's spinner was leaning forward, preventing spins / loops:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-seawitch-fans-on-pinside/page/12#post-4814673
Quoted from LOTR_breath:My only Classic Stern is Lightning. I bought it as a project. I put about 65 hours into it and about $800 in parts. I recently spent another $120 on a CPR plastic set that I have yet to install. I know this game doesn't get the love of some of the other Sterns, but it has a really unique rule set and I'm digging it. Nothing like ripping the spinner when lit for 1k plus 4x playfield. Hard to set it up but man, 350-400K per spinner rip! I also really like how the bonus maxes at 99k times 5x. That bonus meltdown is sweet!
Here are some before and after pics.
Before:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That is some stellar PF art on that game. 
Piershil
Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:Dracula needs one feature lamp socket replaced, otherwise it's good to go. Now on to making rest of machine look as nice as the PF.
I noticed that your score and instruction cards are a bit too small.
Did you changing the settings when printing?
Be sure to set scaling to 100% or "no scaling".
Select the right paper size.
I used A4 in the file, but printers in the USA use letter format.
Peter
www.inkochnito.nl
I have a Seawitch that has a decent cabinet except for the frame section of the backbox. I am guessing this is moisture or water damage pictured?
What is the best way to make this look somewhat normal again?
The rest of the head and cabinet show no signs of this problem. Just the corners of the front backglass frame.
79DBFD18-5B1B-4AEC-BB35-3FD584E56C42 (resized).jpegC0570C5E-ECFB-44B9-9091-6F59FF33FA0E (resized).jpegSuper exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
Quoted from Redketchup:I will change it... easy with to copy!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Very nice!
Quoted from Arcade:I have a Seawitch that has a decent cabinet except for the frame section of the backbox. I am guessing this is moisture or water damage pictured?
What is the best way to make this look somewhat normal again?
The rest of the head and cabinet show no signs of this problem. Just the corners of the front backglass frame.[quoted image][quoted image]
Do like Red Ketchup did. The old ones are glued on. Pry off and use for pattern. Originals are 5/8” thick. Use 3/4” pine. No one will notice the extra 1/8”.
You can glue and clamp or you can screw them on with 4 flathead screws.
Quoted from Inkochnito:I noticed that your score and instruction cards are a bit too small.
Did you changing the settings when printing?
Be sure to set scaling to 100% or "no scaling".
Select the right paper size.
I used A4 in the file, but printers in the USA use letter format.
Peter
www.inkochnito.nl
No that's just me being an idiot & cutting them out a hair small LOL. Font/size etc is same as factory. If I find time maybe I'll re-do them.
Heading down the homestretch of getting my Hot Hand ready for sale.
The folks who had the game before me, for some unknown reason, stored the backglass between two slabs of styrofoam. Kept it from breaking but the rough finish of the styrofoam rubbed off some of the ink. So I bought a new translite for it. The old backglass has the usual metal lift channel, two plastic side channels, but it has this metal strip across the top with two 90 degree flanges on the back that are used to lock it in place.
What is the best way to get this metal strip off the old glass, and the lift channel as well?
Thanks.
Picked up a Magic recently. Minor issues fixed and I have it flipping. Not as bad as I thought it would play, not bad at all.
Playfield is rode pretty hard and a decent touch up with a massive piece of Mylar is between the pops, but it plays fine.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from Alan_L:Heading down the homestretch of getting my Hot Hand ready for sale.
The folks who had the game before me, for some unknown reason, stored the backglass between two slabs of styrofoam. Kept it from breaking but the rough finish of the styrofoam rubbed off some of the ink. So I bought a new translite for it. The old backglass has the usual metal lift channel, two plastic side channels, but it has this metal strip across the top with two 90 degree flanges on the back that are used to lock it in place.
What is the best way to get this metal strip off the old glass, and the lift channel as well?
Thanks.
The top metal strip with the flanges is sort of pinched on. You should be able to pull it up and off with not too much effort.
The lift channel on my pins is held on with two small pieces of double backed friction tape close to the outside of the glass. Try using a razor knife and cut the tape on the glass side. If you are lucky this will weaken the tape's grip enough that you can pull the lift channel off. If not, carefully try and cut the tape on the ink side.
There are a couple of other methods I have read about but these have worked foe me.
Quoted from Mitch:Can someone post a pic of there j1 connector on their quicksilver rectifier board. Need to see where the wires go.
Screen Shot 2019-02-10 at 12.53.15 AM (resized).png
Pin #1 is on your left
Pin 1 = red wire ( GI lighting hot wire )
pin 2 = not used
pin 3 = blue wire (feature lamps)
pin 4 = blocking key
pin 5 = not used
pin 6 = blue/white wire (this is flipper power wire that solders to the 1 amp fuse holder between the flippers)
pin 7 = Blue wire (feature lamps). Helps split the load with pin 3
pin 8 = white wire ( GI lighting ground wire ).
Quoted from cottonm4:[quoted image]
Pin #1 is on your left
Pin 1 = red wire ( GI lighting hot wire )
pin 2 = not used
pin 3 = blue wire (feature lamps)
pin 4 = blocking key
pin 5 = not used
pin 6 = blue/white wire (this is flipper power wire that solders to the 1 amp fuse holder between the flippers)
pin 7 = Blue wire (feature lamps). Helps split the load with pin 3
pin 8 = white wire ( GI lighting ground wire ).
Thank you this is exactly what I needed.
Quoted from Mitch:Can someone post a pic of there j1 connector on their quicksilver rectifier board. Need to see where the wires go.
This may help in the future - http://www.jtamusements.com/meteor_rec_board.html (from Meteor)
Jim
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from WeatherbyMAG:Stingray got a coin door/door trim & leg repaint. Loving the Rustoleum "hammered" finish paint.
[quoted image]
I think that looks great. I am going to try that on mine.
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:This may help in the future - http://www.jtamusements.com/meteor_rec_board.html (from Meteor)
Jim
[quoted image][quoted image]
Are all classic sterns rectifier boards wired the same way.
Quoted from Mitch:Are all classic sterns rectifier boards wired the same way.
For the most part, AFAIK. I've used that as a guide for all of the rectifier boards that I've rebuilt / repinned, including Nine Ball, Gamatron, Flight 2000 (2x), Seawitch (2x), Galaxy, Lightning, and Freefall.
Jim
Quoted from Mitch:Are all classic sterns rectifier boards wired the same way.
For the most part.
J-1 will be the same.
J-2 will be same.
J-3: My Catacomb has one extra wire.
Meteor has a small difference in the wiring, but I don’t think the difference extends to the rectifier. I’ll have to search this when I get home.
Quoted from WeatherbyMAG:Stingray got a coin door/door trim & leg repaint. Loving the Rustoleum "hammered" finish paint.
[quoted image]
Can you offer any more pics of your Stingray?
Sure do like that game. Will own one someday.
So - my coin doors are in generally OK shape given the player condition of the games - but I bought new front decals for the whopping 3 or 4 bucks they are. Problem is - the original paint is still on there and smudged to hell. Any recommendation of something to pull that off - but not the original door paint?
Quoted from statictrance:So - my coin doors are in generally OK shape given the player condition of the games - but I bought new front decals for the whopping 3 or 4 bucks they are. Problem is - the original paint is still on there and smudged to hell. Any recommendation of something to pull that off - but not the original door paint?
Try denatured alcohol. If that doesn't work you'll probably have to sand and repaint.
So - my coin doors are in generally OK shape given the player condition of the games - but I bought new front decals for the whopping 3 or 4 bucks they are. Problem is - the original paint is still on there and smudged to hell. Any recommendation of something to pull that off - but not the original door paint?</blockquote
WD40 works well for removing adhesive. About the only place I use WD40 for on a pin
Quoted from rollitover:Can you offer any more pics of your Stingray?
Sure do like that game. Will own one someday.
It's nothing special.... it's mostly the way I bought it a couple years ago.
All I've done to it was rebuild flippers, put Comet Retro LEDs in PF, SMD's in the backbox, & a new beehive & shooter rod, along with some flipper switches & buttons.
It had an Alltek MPU when I bought it & new PF glass. Cab is original, PF is original.
Oh & I put a BG Resto Backglass in it. Before end of Winter I plan on stripping the PF, touching it up & fixing some inserts & clearing. Some of the inserts are starting to get pretty bad. I will switch the posts out to red as I hate white posts, & get rid of the black rubbers in favor of whites, just little personal preferences that I like on games.
The plastics are all original & in nice condition including the often broke center clamshell.
It's a fun game.... good spinners, & the chimes are cool for an Early SS. I really like the art... underwater themes are always some of my favorites. Stingray reminds me of the 1977 Nick Nolte/Jacqueline Bisset movie "the Deep" which is one of my all time favorite movies.
& No none the displays are not bad, it's just the way my iPhone takes pics of displays....They all work perfectly.
IMG_2154 (resized).jpgIMG_2155 (resized).jpgIMG_2156 (resized).jpgIMG_2157 (resized).jpgQuoted from WeatherbyMAG:Stingray got a coin door/door trim & leg repaint. Loving the Rustoleum "hammered" finish paint.
[quoted image]
I like the lever or whatever that is on the coin door lock, looks a lot better than a key - what is it and where can I get one?
Quoted from Winger03:I like the lever or whatever that is on the coin door lock, looks a lot better than a key - what is it and where can I get one?
Quoted from Winger03:I like the lever or whatever that is on the coin door lock, looks a lot better than a key - what is it and where can I get one?
These are the best. No more fumbling around for keys. I made my games keyless years ago and never looked back. You can get a similar type keyless for the head too that uses are screwdriver blade to turn them.
You may want to look around as I know Rob Anthony Borygard stocks em too.
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