(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

5 years ago


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#10201 88 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I recently bought a Gottlieb machine that has two 4-place drop target assemblies onboard.
[quoted image]
On my Seawitch play field, the slot for the 4-place drop assembly measures 5" long.
On the Gottlieb, the slot for the 4 drops measures 4 7/8" long.
I have not actually tried it yet, but I'm guessing a Gottlieb drop assembly would work if you cannot find a Stern drop target assembly.
The targets will look different. They will look more like the early style Stern tombstone target. But if you are begging, this might a solution.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I was actually going to do Skateball with DE drops.

#10202 88 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:I was actually going to do Skateball with DE drops.

Sweet. That's the spirit!

#10203 88 days ago
Quoted from EJS:

Can someone post a picture of J1 in a Stars? My plug was missing and I’m coming up short with only 4 wires. I see the schematic online and doesn’t agree with anything I have (below). Looks like the yellow at least changes to the brown white?
[quoted image]

Well, they sometimes used whatever they had laying around when they made these. Yellow and tan are close enough, just like brown and tan. Pink and white.

#10204 88 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

The new light driver boards are great but don't always take care of the flicker completely on their own. Meteor seems to be the worst. I had to add a resistors to 85% of my feature lights to eliminate the problem completely.

Quoted from barakandl:

Any MPU200 game is going to show the led flicker problem worse. The fast CPU clock means that more lamps are driven close enough to the zero cross point not enough current flows, they don't latch and flicker. I started decreasing the resistance on the first 16 lamps or so that get turned on just to try and make sure they latch. The last half of the lamps usually don't even need a resistor.
It seems not every SCR and not every transformer is made equally too. I've seen one production lot of SCRs latch good at lower current, then another date code from the same popular western brand seem to have more problems latching, I've seen the same thing in the old boards. The datasheets will show the TO92 and TO126 have similar latching characteristics, but i've found the TO92 ones across all brands are always more susceptible to flickering (internal resistance??).
A tenth of a volt difference from a transformer could be the difference between it latching or not. More lamps turned on, more load, more voltage drop, more lamps that will flicker.
Lamp test is probably the best way to identify lamps that will flicker. Check lamp test when the game is cold and after it warms up as what lamps flicker can change.
Make sure you hook up the extra wire to the volts DC feature lamp bus. Not the GI!

Quoted from Mathazar:

My Meteor restore used all Alltek boards (MPU, Lamp, etc) and while most of the control LEDs performed well with no flicker, I still had to add resistors to a few.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1979-stern-meteor-project/page/4#post-6612948

Quoted from frunch:

When running LEDs with an Alltek driver, you have to run a wire from the board to the controlled lamp power bus (might be easiest to connect to a socket where the power line attaches). Instructions are printed on the lamp driver: [quoted image]

Thanks for the multiple replies but I'm confused because I left the Alltek driver in there with the same wire attached to the controlled lamp power bus and it's gone from almost no flicker (I honestly only saw 1 light that maybe had flicker) when I also had the Alltek MPU and Soldenoid boards installed to looking like a strob light in a dance club now that I have the original MPU and solenoid driver installed. I will try the resistor route as it's really, really bad now. If I can't fix it that way I'll have to either swap out all the LED or put the Alltek MPU and Solenloid boards back in

#10205 88 days ago

It might be blasphemy, but there could come a time when there are two kinds of classic Stern builders: Those who have drop target assemblies and those who don't. .

I don't know about anybody else but I like having options.

#10206 88 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It might be blasphemy, but there could come a time when there are two kinds of classic Stern builders: Those who have drop target assemblies and those who don't. .
I don't know about anybody else but I like having options.

The gottlieb drops work really well in my robo war also. Which I am finding to be an absolutely incredible game btw.

#10207 88 days ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Sweet. That's the spirit!

I say "was" because I scored a set of Bally units though I still want to try the DE ones and see how prone to bricking they are compared to the Bally's.

No one ever complains the DE ones brick in my experience. Break when they get old in my experience but they all do.

Bricking isn't anywhere as common complaint.

#10208 88 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

The gottlieb drops work really well in my robo war also. Which I am finding to be an absolutely incredible game btw.

I think the Gottlieb drops are a superior design when compared to the Bally/ Stern drop targets. There are less moving parts.

Gottliebs have a drop target and one expansion/tension spring. Stern/Bally has the drop target, clevis pin and C-clip, a "finger" that the target is pinned to, shaft/rod that the fingers pivot on, and the tension spring.

#10209 88 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I say "was" because I scored a set of Bally units though I still want to try the DE ones and see how prone to bricking they are compared to the Bally's.
No one ever complains the DE ones brick in my experience. Break when they get old in my experience but they all do.
Bricking isn't anywhere as common complaint.

Which DE pins have drop targets? I am only familiar with my Robocop, which had stand up targets only.

#10210 88 days ago

Tales from the Crypt, Simpsons, Checkpoint, Last Action Hero, Secret Service, Hook, WWF Royal Rumble, Star Trek 25th, Star Wars, Rocky & Bullwinkle, and Guns & Roses all come to mind.

#10211 88 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Tales from the Crypt, Simpsons, Checkpoint, Last Action Hero, Secret Service, Hook, WWF Royal Rumble, Star Trek 25th, Star Wars, Rocky & Bullwinkle, and Guns & Roses all come to mind.

I have a Secret Service 5 bank that I plan to use in combination with an individually controlled Xenon 4-drop-bank for a homebrew project next year.

#10212 88 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Tales from the Crypt, Simpsons, Checkpoint, Last Action Hero, Secret Service, Hook, WWF Royal Rumble, Star Trek 25th, Star Wars, Rocky & Bullwinkle, and Guns & Roses all come to mind.

What he said.

#10213 88 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It might be blasphemy, but there could come a time when there are two kinds of classic Stern builders: Those who have drop target assemblies and those who don't. .
I don't know about anybody else but I like having options.

The Stern three assemblies seem to be easiest to find, but four assemblies are harder to find so many people are using Bally instead.

#10214 88 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I think the Gottlieb drops are a superior design when compared to the Bally/ Stern drop targets. There are less moving parts.

I bought Gottlieb drops for my quicksilver build for this reason, and for the fact they were available and really cheap too! I want to put Swinks targets in my Stars and I was hoping to put them in my QS as well, but I doubt there’s much of a market for printing stern targets that fit in a Gottlieb mech.

#10215 88 days ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Well, they sometimes used whatever they had laying around when they made these. Yellow and tan are close enough, just like brown and tan. Pink and white.

That’s what I was thinking too. Process of elimination. I did find a couple pictures from the Stars thread and those were yet another contradiction but as you say…they use what they had I suppose.

I’m basically rebuilding everything and plugging things in one at a time to test and so far all the GI is lit.

#10216 87 days ago
Quoted from trecemaneras:

I doubt there’s much of a market for printing stern targets that fit in a Gottlieb mech.

I friend of mine managed to get me 12 Stern hooded drop targets 3D printed in black---for a project. He did not charge me a dime. I have not put them to use yet, so there is a possibility that may not work well. But they sure do look like they are on the money.

Glue a Stern top to a Gottlieb bottom. Make sure it works then find a 3D Printer.

#10217 87 days ago
Quoted from bluespin:

The Stern three assemblies seem to be easiest to find, but four assemblies are harder to find so many people are using Bally instead.

Now there is Gottlieb for an added option.

#10218 87 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

And.............I can make them.
The one on the bottom is mine. You look carefully and you can see some of the bends are not in perfect alignment. But the two critical bends are on the pivot point axles.
While not perfect, I did test it in my Nine Ball and it works and works well. I have enough material to make a couple more in a day or so.
[quoted image]

Quoted from ant_:

Nice work!
I’ll need one for my build, but I’m willing to try making my own.
Would you mind photographing your original with a ruler or on a grid to assist with measurements please?

Here is the measurements for the wire gate in Nine Ball.

Nine Ball wire (resized).jpegNine Ball wire (resized).jpeg

Nine Ball wire 1 (resized).jpegNine Ball wire 1 (resized).jpeg

Notice the wire is different on the ends. One drop-down loop is wider than the other. The wide drop-down loop is outside of the U-turn and the switch activating wire loop is placed over this loop.

The smaller of the two drop-down loops is placed inside of the U-Turn. You have some slack when making your bends; But you to want give the switch wire room to move. You don't need to be that accurate, but you want to make sure the smaller loop does not ride the ball guide. And, MOST important is the smaller d-d loop needs to be where it is not going to ride over the top of the ball guide.

IMG_4688 (resized).JPGIMG_4688 (resized).JPG
IMG_4689 (resized).JPGIMG_4689 (resized).JPG

( I have my OG Nine Ball wire hidden in a safe place to be my master wire). The one shown is one I made. It is off a little bit from the factory wire but it passes the hand test.

#10219 87 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Here is the measurements for the wire gate in Nine Ball.

Thanks for the measurements and photos!

…and congratulations on finding your TX Sector.

#10220 86 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It might be blasphemy, but there could come a time when there are two kinds of classic Stern builders: Those who have drop target assemblies and those who don't. .
I don't know about anybody else but I like having options.

If anyone wants to experiment I have a few 3 bank and 1 or maybe 2 - 4 bank "fat" gottlieb drop target mechs that I would sell.

As long as its on my mind the "slim" gottlieb drop target mechs from the late 80s on in my opinion are better. I scratch build a Robo War a few years ago and if you look close in the picture below at the 4 bank target on the left it was actually a 5 or 6 bank mech originally. My favorite part of these mechs is all you need is a cutoff wheel to make them any length you want. Also check the 3 bank mech to the right I subbed a "fat" target mech and it actually fits in there. The wiring mess in the picture was because I had to make the whole playfield wiring harness from scratch.
IMG_0411 (resized).JPGIMG_0411 (resized).JPG

#10221 86 days ago
Quoted from 20eyes:

the "slim" gottlieb drop target mechs from the late 80s on in my opinion are better.

These slims are what I was referring to. I don't know if the fat ones would fit.

#10222 86 days ago

I have a client who has bought an Iron Maiden. The lift bar of one of his 5-place drop targets is a mess. He asked if I could help him out. And I could.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1B-484-3

For lift bars, all Marco sells is the lift bar for a 3-place drop assy. (assembly)
image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg
=====================================
You need 2 nyliner washers.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-8790-7

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg
=========================

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/2A-225-5

Marco also sells the pivot rod for a 5-place drop. I did not need the rod.

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg
=================================

I have a couple of 5-place drops to use as a model.

I got two lift bars and two of the 1/4" nyliner bearings.

IMG_4672 (resized).jpgIMG_4672 (resized).jpg

I have one 5-place lift bar to use for size. Instead of trusting myself to make the cuts in the right place and get the bars lined up, I cut a piece of plywood to use as a gauge. And trimmed it to a working size.

IMG_4678 (resized).jpgIMG_4678 (resized).jpg

Instead of trusting myself to make the accurate measurements, I made a jig so I get the two bars lined up.

IMG_4679 (resized).jpgIMG_4679 (resized).jpg

The better way to do what I have done would be to either MIG weld them or TIG weld them. I employed Gorilla Glue to make my splices. I don't have a welder and welders do not work cheap.

Cutting to size..

IMG_4677 (resized).jpgIMG_4677 (resized).jpg

IMG_4682 (resized).jpgIMG_4682 (resized).jpg

Putting them together

Glue will not stick to parchment paper. It is the 21st Century version of wax paper.

IMG_4683 (resized).jpgIMG_4683 (resized).jpg

Gorilla Glue is good and works well on metal but I don't want to take chances so I drilled and tapped 4 four holes and installed four 6-32 screws.

I used of the clevis/pivot pins to help with keeping working pieces in position.

IMG_4684 (resized).jpgIMG_4684 (resized).jpg

IMG_4685 (resized).jpgIMG_4685 (resized).jpg

Bonding the splice piece ( left over material from cutting the two bars in half).

IMG_4686 (resized).jpgIMG_4686 (resized).jpg

IMG_4691 (resized).jpgIMG_4691 (resized).jpg

Test fitting the other bar half for fit on my wooden jig. I have about 1/8" material that I sanded off with my bench mount disk sander.

IMG_4679 (resized).jpgIMG_4679 (resized).jpg

Putting it all together.

IMG_4699 (resized).jpgIMG_4699 (resized).jpg

IMG_4703 (resized).jpgIMG_4703 (resized).jpg

The screws were cut, the threads were tapped tight with a hammer and then cut off.

IMG_4704 (resized).jpgIMG_4704 (resized).jpg

Instead of paying $9.00 for Marco's rod, I bought a 3' chunk of cold rolled 1/4" rod for $3.00. I cut off the length I needed and have enough to make 3 more.

IMG_4708 (resized).jpgIMG_4708 (resized).jpg

I beveled the rod ends and drove on some push washers.

IMG_4711 (resized).jpgIMG_4711 (resized).jpg

image (resized).pngimage (resized).png

https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=push+washers&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
And we have action.

IMG_4710 (resized).jpgIMG_4710 (resized).jpg

( I sure wish I could do this stuff with pinside not changing the order on my pictures. The sorting mode does not help).

And what I figured out is that when you use this style of lift bar, you no longer need the lifting arms.

IMG_4715 (resized).jpgIMG_4715 (resized).jpg

=========================

What I have learned from this exercise.

You could use 3 lift bars to make a 6-place lift bar for Meteor. Or you could make a 4-place lift for Quicksilver. And I suppose you could get creative and make and 8-place bar to build a Nine Ball drop assy.

With this lift bar, you do not need the pivot arms, so in theory, you could take the few parts that Marco is selling and make any size Stern drop assy that you wish. It would be some work, but it could be done. But you would really the the ability to weld some of the pieces together.

I made this lift bar for a client but while looking through my stash of drops I can see I need to make 2 of these bars for myself.

i hope this helps somebody out.

IMG_4693 (resized).jpgIMG_4693 (resized).jpgIMG_4697 (resized).jpgIMG_4697 (resized).jpgIMG_4710 (resized).jpgIMG_4710 (resized).jpg
#10224 85 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

I usually go novus 2 with magic eraser for a few passes and then novus 2, novus 1, carnauba 2 coats. I have seen other people recommend naphtha and magic eraser with alcohol as well.

I found the courage to try magic eraser with alcohol on my recently acquired and absolutely filthy Taxi. Alcohol is way more effective than novus 2.

IMG_0726 (resized).jpegIMG_0726 (resized).jpegIMG_0733 (resized).jpegIMG_0733 (resized).jpeg
#10225 85 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

I found the courage to try magic eraser with alcohol

Alcohol works very good. But the 91% and 99% stuff will melt some of that old paint. Tread lightly.

That is quite an improvement.

#10226 85 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

I found the courage to try magic eraser with alcohol on my recently acquired and absolutely filthy Taxi. Alcohol is way more effective than novus 2. [quoted image][quoted image]

Alcohol and ME works well because it dissolves the little varnish that's on older Playfields or softens some clear. It's great, but keep it well waxed now as you can eat paint much easier playing, unless you clear it when done. Hit it with some light after the ME+alcohol and you'll clearly see what I mean by how dull it is compared to other areas.

#10227 85 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Alcohol works very good. But the 91% and 99% stuff will melt some of that old paint. Tread lightly.
That is quite an improvement.

For clarity, I was using 91% with one inch squares of ME with very light pressure in a circular pattern focusing on very small areas. I think for next one I’ll go down in alcohol percentage to give me a little more margin.

#10228 85 days ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

Alcohol and ME works well because it dissolves the little varnish that's on older Playfields or softens some clear. It's great, but keep it well waxed now as you can eat paint much easier playing, unless you clear it when done. Hit it with some light after the ME+alcohol and you'll clearly see what I mean by how dull it is compared to other areas.

I don’t think this one will come out well enough to clear and I’d rather not take the entire underside off. Although it would be a good one to practice on, I’ve never done it. 3 layers of carnauba has been my method in the past.

#10229 85 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

I think for next one I’ll go down in alcohol percentage to give me a little more margin.

Be careful. What is not alcohol is water.

#10230 85 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Be careful. What is not alcohol is water.

Ahh, good point, I didn’t think of that.

#10231 84 days ago

Well, it is 12/1 and I promised to be done with the new Star Gazer build.

Here it is:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/168599

The glass is nice, but I have a fresh sheet waiting for the new owner . I'll take some more photos when the light is favorable. This will likely be my last build for some time. I am being pulled in a different direction these days.

#10232 84 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

... Alcohol is way more effective than novus 2.

Haha...no. ME is more effective than Novus 2. Make sure to use Novus to get the ME haze off.

#10233 84 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Haha...no. ME is more effective than Novus 2. Make sure to use Novus to get the ME haze off.

I meant alcohol with me is more effective than novus 2 with me, just for the sake of clarity.

#10234 84 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Well, it is 12/1 and I promised to be done with the new Star Gazer build.
Here it is:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/168599
The glass is nice, but I have a fresh sheet waiting for the new owner . I'll take some more photos when the light is favorable. This will likely be my last build for some time. I am being pulled in a different direction these days.

Incredible work, I can’t stop staring at it.

#10235 84 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

I meant alcohol with me is more effective than novus 2 with me, just for the sake of clarity.

Yes of course. ME is sandpaper, that's why it works so well. I'm with you, use it all the time. The ONLY thing I use carefully.

#10236 84 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Yes of course. ME is sandpaper, that's why it works so well. I'm with you, use it all the time. The ONLY thing I use carefully.

Yeah I’d be super gentle with a really nice game, I didn’t think I could make this taxi much worse than it already was. Look at the upper playfield in the before picture, I kinda don’t think it had ever been cleaned. I was just super excited by how well this method worked and I remember Neil asking about cleaning techniques on older games so I felt it worth a share.

#10237 84 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Well, it is 12/1 and I promised to be done with the new Star Gazer build.

That is a very nice looking machine. Everything is ship shape. Someone is sure to grab that up quickly!

#10238 84 days ago

What are the solutions to replacing the carriage bolt that is used to hold the plastic post? Doing a PF swap and these seem to be unreliable, can't remove nut, bolt spins while trying to remove, etc. I plan to convert to the more common way to attach a plastic post, a T-nut with the appropriate threaded metal post. It seems that the previously mentioned metal post isn't long enough for the tall plastic posts. Same for the wood screw post. I'm sure this has been mentioned, but didn't find anything via the search engine.

#10239 84 days ago

You can install a t-nut and thread a 2-1/4” machine screw up from underneath.

#10240 84 days ago

If you don't mind slightly different setup, just a machine post/screw with a tnut underneath. The carriage bolt setup even with what play_pinball says I don't care for.

I use the rubber nuts on my plastics instead of the metal nuts for easy access.

#10241 84 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

You can install a t-nut and thread a 2-1/4” machine screw up from underneath.

This worked for me. Removed Amazon link because 2 1/4” was nla

#10242 84 days ago
Quoted from izzy:

What are the solutions to replacing the carriage bolt that is used to hold the plastic post? Doing a PF swap and these seem to be unreliable, can't remove nut, bolt spins while trying to remove, etc. I plan to convert to the more common way to attach a plastic post, a T-nut with the appropriate threaded metal post. It seems that the previously mentioned metal post isn't long enough for the tall plastic posts. Same for the wood screw post. I'm sure this has been mentioned, but didn't find anything via the search engine.

For removal, you can use a Dremmel to cut a slot in the bottom of the carriage bolt. Then use a flat blade screwdriver in the slot while you turn the nut. You may even have to pry upwards on the nut while you turn it.

#10243 84 days ago

Silly question -
Is there any kind of 'stands' that will let me slide the PF forward and then let it rest out - without it crushing a mech or wiring? And NOT using the prop-bar? The prop bar sometimes is too high, and I hate resting the bottom of the playfield on the lockdown receiver bar when I have to work on the back of a playfield.

#10244 83 days ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

For removal, you can use a Dremmel to cut a slot in the bottom of the carriage bolt. Then use a flat blade screwdriver in the slot while you turn the nut. You may even have to pry upwards on the nut while you turn it.

My method is to cut the top off and waste the post if need be. Then push the cut bolt out the bottom.

#10245 83 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Silly question -
Is there any kind of 'stands' that will let me slide the PF forward and then let it rest out - without it crushing a mech or wiring? And NOT using the prop-bar? The prop bar sometimes is too high, and I hate resting the bottom of the playfield on the lockdown receiver bar when I have to work on the back of a playfield.

In a pinch, you can rest the play field on the slingshot brackets. If you plan to do this regularly, you should consider making a small piece of metal to bolt on with the coil stop bracket screws with a groove or slot to rest on the upturned angle of the lockdown receiver to keep the sling brackets from sliding off.

This will slide you back about 18 inches and improve access to the back of the play field.

IMG_4729 (resized).JPGIMG_4729 (resized).JPG

#10246 83 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

In a pinch, you can rest the play field on the slingshot brackets.

This is what I do. Be careful that the brackets are seated well on the lockdown receiver, otherwise you can have a nasty slam necessitating replacing sling switches or solenoids. (A lesson a person really should only need to learn once, unless you’re me, lol.)

I have fantasized about figuring out a way to use those nice WPC playfield slides and brackets on older pins. Those things are just fantastic. But I’ll take the simplicity of Bally/Stern over that horrid single pivot point used on Sys11 and DE games. That’s horrid.

#10247 83 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

This is what I do. Be careful that the brackets are seated well on the lockdown receiver, otherwise you can have a nasty slam necessitating replacing sling switches or solenoids. (A lesson a person really should only need to learn once, unless you’re me, lol.)
I have fantasized about figuring out a way to use those nice WPC playfield slides and brackets on older pins. Those things are just fantastic. But I’ll take the simplicity of Bally/Stern over that horrid single pivot point used on Sys11 and DE games. That’s horrid.

That is why I said this: you should consider making a small piece of metal to bolt on with the coil stop bracket screws with a groove or slot to rest on the upturned angle of the lockdown receiver to keep the sling brackets from sliding off.

Actually, one could cut slots in the sling bracket and coil stop that would allow for a positive locking point.

I'll go out to the shop and make something up in a couple of a days. A picture is worth thousands of words.

#10248 83 days ago
Quoted from emsrph:

This worked for me. Removed Amazon link because 2 1/4” was nla

You can get 2-1/2” or even 3” and a pair of something like these to cut the excess off. Klein Tools 1000 Multi Tool, 6-in-1 Stripper, Crimper, Wire Cutter, Screw Measure and Shears, Multi-Purpose Lineman Tool https://a.co/d/5EhPYGt

Extra step I know but it’s an option.

#10249 83 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

This is what I do. Be careful that the brackets are seated well on the lockdown receiver, otherwise you can have a nasty slam necessitating replacing sling switches or solenoids. (A lesson a person really should only need to learn once, unless you’re me, lol.)
I have fantasized about figuring out a way to use those nice WPC playfield slides and brackets on older pins. Those things are just fantastic. But I’ll take the simplicity of Bally/Stern over that horrid single pivot point used on Sys11 and DE games. That’s horrid.

I have really thought about squeezing these somewhere under a couple of my playfields. I had the dreaded drop on my Quicksilver once. And some games (looking at Ballys mostly) you can’t even rely on using the sling brackets.

https://mantispinball.com/product/data-east-support-bracket/

#10250 83 days ago

Thanks guys - yeah, I use the slingshot brackets, but am always petrified of bumping the playfield and having it drop. Heh.

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Boards
$ 31.00
$ 999.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
Flipper parts
$ 319.99
Cabinet - Other
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
Other
$ 859.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
Flipper parts
From: $ 2.25
Playfield - Other
Bob's Pinball Stuff
Other
From: $ 50.75
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 300.00
Cabinet Parts
Fantastic Pinball Inc.
Cabinet parts
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Ipswich, MA
$ 10.00
Lighting
Yoppsicle
Lighting
$ 3.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 12.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
Electronics
$ 169.00
Boards
RoyGBev Pinball
Boards
From: $ 1.25
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 12.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
UpKick Pinball
Toys/Add-ons
$ 24.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
$ 149.95
Boards
Allteksystems
Boards
$ 24.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
$ 12.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
UpKick Pinball
Toys/Add-ons
$ 959.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
Flipper parts
From: $ 8.00
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
$ 69.00
Electronics
Pinball Haus
Electronics
1,400 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Busti, NY
$ 45.00
Pinball Machine
Wall To Wall Pinball
Pinball Machine
$ 189.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
Flipper parts
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
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