Many thanks for posting the solution. Every little bit helps.

Congrats on the new addition to the family. You have about 50 children now according to my calculation!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ask John if he can work with a scan. Hopefully he can make them.

I bought 100 caps and I usually just replace them all. Super cheap and easy to do. Gives all the switches a fresh new start!

We are talking. Will see if scan & art files can be done. For anyone who can help out 200 dpi or better. Color file, white file (use a non used color, easy one since it is everything except bare glass, & can be color file as template), & gray blocking file. I compensate for art coming my way that goes into production!

Nice pickup Mitch! Very jealous.

Anyone know the part number for the L-bracket that holds the ball guides to the playfield on Trident (and I'm sure many other games)? Image for reference.

Screen Shot 2019-01-14 at 4.38.51 PM (resized).png

Viper for sale
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-viper-1#post-4788207

Iron maiden For sale
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-iron-maiden#post-4788206

here you go

Beautiful games, you should keep them and sell me your Flight 2000 instead.

Wow!!!!!!!!! Nice!

I guess Mitch is going to Montreal for a road trip

Looking for the spinning bumper assemblies on Orbitor 1, or any parts and pieces, I'd even rebuild a broken one.

Any and all help appreciated!

Parts - Wanted

Orbitor1 Spinning Bumpers Archived

Wanted! - “Looking for complete OR partial spinning bumper assemblies. Doesn’t have to work, I am willing to completely rebuild a broken one. Finding TWO of these is impossible. My Orbit...”

2019-06-23

Saratoga Springs, NY

Isochronic_Frost

Wanted

Archived after: 67 days

Viewed: 325 times

Status: Unknown reason:

How fast do these bumper assemblies spin. What RPM? Would it be possible to buy a couple of high RPM motors, machine some brackets and machine the bumper part from hard rubber?

What about a motor from a Skil Saw. They are high speed with fast start up. They are continuous duty motors. And they have a threaded shaft.

I pm'd you with some collector (hoarder) leads and some Facebook groups to try. Good luck.

there is some kind of PCB attached to them for the switch matrix.

They have an optic assembly on the underside that senses when the ball impacts the bumper and slows it down. I'd have to double check the RPM, it's a bit complicated, unfortunately

I saw this and my PM must not have gone through, thanks!

That kind of velocity might put the ball into actual, uh, orbit!

This is a R-E-A-L long shot. Steve, at PBR told me one time that he knows the old timers from the industry. So when he needs some springs made up he calls the guy that used to make the springs. Stuff like that.

When I first did biz with him for my Big Game he commented negatively on the quality of Stern Electronics products. As I gained experience had some closer looks at some Gottlieb pins I could see what he was talking about.

He knows people. He might know who made those Orbitor motors.

You might try putting on your best ass kissing voice you can muster and give him a call---perhaps after you bought a few dollars worth of parts from him. The active phrase in that sentence is "ass kissing voice". Sort of like somebody approaching the Godfather and asking for a favor

Looking for the Classic Stern part number for yellow arrow insert used in Seawitch & other pins. Need it to try to get Foremost Plastics to produce.

Was playing some Meteor tonight and had a thought. I wonder if it would somehow be possible to save 4 high scores instead of just one. Anyone ever seen the code edited to do something like that? One score for each of the 4 displays.....

I haven't seen it, but it would be possible. You'd have to give up some audits to make room in the CMOS for additional high scores and you'd have to remove all associated routines from the code that reference the audits you just 86'd. May not be as big a deal for Stern vs. Bally since the MPU-200 has double the amount of CMOS RAM, but I don't know.

Does anyone know of a source for the "Stern" coin door decal?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=stern+coin+door+decal

THere is no part number for the L-bracket. The manual will give you a part number for the ball guide assembly.

Pinball Resource has several old Stern ball guides you can buy and salvage the angle brackets if you want to.

This link: Scroll down about 35 items from the top.

http://www.pbresource.com/special.html

Both game are sold and gone!

Same person buy both?

Yes

hell yes

Hate to say this, but after playing these classic Sterns, when I go back to the Ballys from the same era...I'm getting disappointed with them. Centaur and Fathom are still great, but getting bored with my Viking, Medusa, and Supersonic.

Hmm....

Mind getting a little more specific?
What do you like about the Sterns?
What is disappointing about the Bally's?
Inquiring minds want to know.

Eh, Medusa is amazing. I will buy it if you are selling.

I picked up a f2k in August and just grabbed a sbm last week.
I find myself playing those 2 a lot more than my Gotg pro
I got in june. Really liking my classic ss pins. Spinners galore
.

Can someone please verify if this wiring is correct into my line filter??? I need to replace the power cord, and I'm not sure the wiring is correct.

I saw Pinsider Vid's posts about replacing power cords, and using his diagram for classic Bally machines, mine looks like the colored wires coming out of the bottom are reversed, and the two (hot and neutral) lines soldered to the right and left tabs look to be reversed also???

powerin (resized).jpg

I know what F2K is but you got me with “sbm”. I’ll probably feel stupid but what is sbm?

Silverball Mania

Silverball Mania

Interested in moving your Defender? I have a nice Medusa.....

In the "international" wire code brown is the "Line" and blue is the neutral. In the USA black is the Line and white is the neutral. Looks like in the picture brown is connected to white so it's been reversed. However, I believe those line filters are symetrical so in the end it really doesn't matter - electrically. Best to make it right since you are replacing the power cord anyway.

Thanks for the clarification. If I switch the brown and blue wires I should also switch the plug wires also correct?

Yeah, I don’t think so. That’s not an even trade.

I haven't read Vid's power cord thread but the narrow blade on the plug, which is the Line side) should connect to the filter on the same side as the brown wire.

Well wouldn't have to be straight up and depends how nice the games are in comparison really anyway. The Medusa I have is super nice, great backglass and the playfield just has insignificant wear showing in a couple really small spots. Tha cab is the worst part of it and shows some rub wear, nothing a stencil/paint redo wouldn’t fix to make it really CQ. I was kinda just joking about it, but if you have interest, pm me....

Classic Stern slingshot hardware...

The pivot for your sling shot arms is probably worn out. It is not causing you any real problems. Your sling arm is still going to kick the ball across the play field, but when you get jumpy about replacing worn parts you do have an option.

Your sling arms:

IMG_9419 (resized).JPG

And the pivot>

Screen Shot 2019-01-21 at 12.05.47 PM (resized).png

Here is what the assembly looks like when the pivot is worn out. Years of playing has taken its toll on the pivot shaft and lots of metal has disappeared .

IMG_9392 (resized).JPG

The fix is to replace the pivot bracket assembly. And you have options.

The pivot I pictured is not an original Stern unit. It is a replacement from Pinball Life.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-slingshot-kicker-mounting-bracket.html

*****************************

Here is what you do. My worn out Stern pivot is on the left. When you compare the two pivots side by side, you will see the replacement pivot is shorter than the original. The holes are in different positions. The hole with the arrow drawn next to it is the only hole that matches the original pivot.

Because the replacement is shorter it causes interference with the kicker arm. To correct this problem you have to grind material from the pivot as you can see in my comparison pic.

IMG_9414 (resized).JPG

Next, using some dowel rod you will need to fill in two holes in your play field where the original pivot mounted. Then you screw the replacement pivot to your play field with the one screw hole that matches. Make double sure you have the pivot line up correctly. Then drill two new replacement holes and screw the pivot down to make sure you did everything right.

Your sling arms are fastened to the pivot with a spring clip. I don't know if you can tell in the pic but the shaft the arm attaches to is shorter than the original. To compensate, you will need to file material from your sling arm so it can be clipped on the new pivot shaft.

I could not get the lighting right but I think you can see how one pivot point is shorter than the other. You have to take your time. You don't want to file off more material then you need to but you also need to file enough off that you can replace the spring clip so it does not bind the arm to the pivot.

IMG_9398 (resized).JPG

When you are finished you will have a sling arm assembly this is a lot more solid with better alignment.

IMG_9394 (resized).JPG

my old stern had worn pivots also, the pin was worn more than the sleeve. I took a different approach and my mod allowed me to do fine adjustments with the nut to not allow the arm to rock on the new pin (bolt).

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-lectronamo-rebuild/page/7#post-4602455

Nice write up, thanks

That's a nice solution to this problem. Trouble for me is I read that post you started and even mades some comments and I somehow blew right past your fix.