(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

5 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 10,651 posts
  • 442 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by emsrph
  • Topic is favorited by 241 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_2275 (resized).jpeg
Pinside_forum_8082513_0 (resized).png
Stern_1B_243 (resized).png
IMG_2253 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3355 (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
Screen Shot 2024-03-15 at 10.08.59 AM (resized).jpg
IMG_2237 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2236 (resized).png
IMG_2235 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5334 (resized).jpeg
received_370555139185864 (resized).jpeg
received_771951581167939 (resized).jpeg
IMG_20240309_154730836 (resized).jpg
IMG_20240310_113615609 (resized).jpg
IMG_2190 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 10,651 posts in this topic. You are on page 176 of 214.
#8751 9 months ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

PCB supports for Bally/Stern boards

Odd specs. Hard to find.

#8752 9 months ago

While I have been doing my builds here are a couple of things I do that may, or may not, help someone out.

For me, the easiest way to set the inside rail for the shooter lane is to cut a block of wood the same width as the shooter lane. Then clamp the block and drill two holes to get the rail mounted to the play field and then drill and fit the remaining holes. It will be located straight and square reliably.

IMG_3188 (resized).jpgIMG_3188 (resized).jpg

IMG_3189 (resized).jpgIMG_3189 (resized).jpg

I also use the classic Stern pop bumper housings if I have them or the Data East units if I don't.

I like to drill a hole in the housing to feed the two pop lamp wires through. It helps with keeping the wires nice and tidy.

IMG_3193 (resized).jpgIMG_3193 (resized).jpg

The benefit of running the wires through the hole is that it 100% keeps them away from the travel of the pop skirt pointer. If anyone decides to do this, it is important to drill the hole in the same place as shown in my pics. If you drill the hole on the wrong side then one wire will be moving right through the skirt pointer.

IMG_3193 (resized).jpgIMG_3193 (resized).jpg

IMG_3196 (resized).jpgIMG_3196 (resized).jpg

IMG_3198 (resized).jpgIMG_3198 (resized).jpg

#8753 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

While I have been doing my builds here are a couple of things I do that may, or may not, help someone out.
For me, the easiest way to set the inside rail for the shooter lane is to cut a block of wood the same width as the shooter lane. Than clamp the block and drill two holes to get the rail mounted to the play field and then drill and fit the remaining holes. It will be located straight and square reliably.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I also use the classic Stern pop bumper housings if I have them or the Data East units if I don't.
I like to drill a hole in the housing to feed to two pop lamp wires through. It helps with keeping the wires nice and tidy.
[quoted image]
The benefit of running the wires through the hole is that it 100% keeps them away from the travel of the pop skirt pointer. If anyone decides to do this, it is important to drill the hole in the same place as shown in my pics. If you drill the hole on the wrong side then one wire will be moving right through the skirt pointer.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Great tips. Thanks!

#8754 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

While I have been doing my builds here are a couple of things I do that may, or may not, help someone out.
For me, the easiest way to set the inside rail for the shooter lane is to cut a block of wood the same width as the shooter lane. Than clamp the block and drill two holes to get the rail mounted to the play field and then drill and fit the remaining holes. It will be located straight and square reliably.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I also use the classic Stern pop bumper housings if I have them or the Data East units if I don't.
I like to drill a hole in the housing to feed to two pop lamp wires through. It helps with keeping the wires nice and tidy.
[quoted image]
The benefit of running the wires through the hole is that it 100% keeps them away from the travel of the pop skirt pointer. If anyone decides to do this, it is important to drill the hole in the same place as shown in my pics. If you drill the hole on the wrong side then one wire will be moving right through the skirt pointer.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Would be hilarious if I were up in arms about those bases having been drilled..but that's genius!

#8755 9 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Would be hilarious if I were up in arms about those bases having been drilled..but that's genius!

I have spares

#8756 9 months ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Another Stargazer brought into existence. Still needs a few finishing touches but this one is headed to a fellow pinsider soon!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Hey I know where that’s going! Wonderful job. He’s going to be very happy

#8757 9 months ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Hey I know where that’s going! Wonderful job. He’s going to be very happy

No doubt!

#8758 9 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I have been using these. They look a little different but work good.
uxcell 100 Pcs Nylon Push-in Style Standoff PCB Support Spacer 5mmx3mm https://a.co/d/0Iu7KqW
The larger end will fit into the support bracket if you work it a little bit. I basically install them upside down for the Classic Sterns.

How much working are we talking about? The ones from PBL I have to force in the brackets with pliers.

#8759 9 months ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Hey I know where that’s going! Wonderful job. He’s going to be very happy

I sure hope so!

#8760 9 months ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

How much working are we talking about? The ones from PBL I have to force in the brackets with pliers.

Nothing like that. Just twist them back and forth with some pressure applied. Using them on my current build now.

20230527_191931 (resized).jpg20230527_191931 (resized).jpg
#8761 9 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Nothing like that. Just twist them back and forth with some pressure applied. Using them on my current build now.
[quoted image]

Sounds better to me! Stargazer?

Thanks for the link.

#8762 9 months ago

I officially joined the club yesterday!
12F5F66C-97B6-4E71-9DAA-38DBC6C97EC5 (resized).jpeg12F5F66C-97B6-4E71-9DAA-38DBC6C97EC5 (resized).jpeg
This example is very “player’s condition” with a great deal of room for improvement cosmetically. But it plays!

#8763 9 months ago
Quoted from trecemaneras:

I officially joined the club yesterday!
[quoted image]
This example is very “player’s condition” with a great deal of room for improvement cosmetically. But it plays!

Congrats!!! Repro playfields were floating around for a minute, might be a few still up for grabs. Try CPRs site if you're looking. Mine has a rough playfield but it plays awesome. Clean it up and play the hell out of it

#8764 9 months ago
Quoted from trecemaneras:

I officially joined the club yesterday!

Where did you find this? I haven't found any classic SS (reasonably priced players or even projects) within a 60 mile radius for months. Congrats on the score!

#8765 9 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Where did you find this? I haven't found any classic SS (reasonably priced players or even projects) within a 60 mile radius for months. Congrats on the score!

Hesston, Kansas! Well outside the 60 mile radius haha! This was the ad: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/156924

I’m originally from Wichita and have friends and family all over the state, so I haphazardly planned a road trip with my kids to drive out, visit a bunch of people, and then pick up the game and drive home. But plans had to change and we had to pick it up day 1, so we’re giving it a tour of the state before we head back to CO

#8766 9 months ago
Quoted from trecemaneras:

Hesston, Kansas! Well outside the 60 mile radius haha! This was the ad: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/156924
I’m originally from Wichita and have friends and family all over the state, so I haphazardly planned a road trip with my kids to drive out, visit a bunch of people, and then pick up the game and drive home. But plans had to change and we had to pick it up day 1, so we’re giving it a tour of the state before we head back to CO

You came, you saw, you conquered. That i70 west drive is the worst.

#8767 9 months ago

There's a $2,500 Cheetah on Facebook Marketplace in south Florida, with a $1,200 Shadow in the background. I confirmed it's a scam.

#8768 9 months ago

Well, my not so secret build is basically complete. It was supposed to be a Quicksilver but every single Mirco playfield I saw had issues. That was a big turnoff. Then my friend told me to build him a collector quality Star Gazer. He liked mine and wanted one for himself. Anyway, fast forward a few months and things changed for my friend financially. As a result, this bad boy will be for sale soon. Just waiting on a couple small parts and a new sheet of glass. I would say within the week. Things were sandblasted, polished, chromed, powder coated, and painted. It is in the correct cabinet with the correct transformer. A MPU - 200 game died to make this build possible. All the paint is oil-based gloss. I don't like clearcoating games because the factory didn't. I like to build to factory specs with some modern day technology. Here are some photos.

20230529_165919 (resized).jpg20230529_165919 (resized).jpg20230529_165926 (resized).jpg20230529_165926 (resized).jpg20230529_165933 (resized).jpg20230529_165933 (resized).jpg20230529_170005 (resized).jpg20230529_170005 (resized).jpg20230529_170029 (resized).jpg20230529_170029 (resized).jpg20230529_183115 (resized).jpg20230529_183115 (resized).jpg20230529_190059 (resized).jpg20230529_190059 (resized).jpg
#8769 9 months ago

By the way, I now have two Star Gazers. Mine has the original reproduction backglass while the new one is the Coos mirrored glass. They both look great. I would say the mirrored one is better but it is also more expensive. You really can't go wrong.

20230529_190136 (resized).jpg20230529_190136 (resized).jpg20230529_190215 (resized).jpg20230529_190215 (resized).jpg

#8770 9 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

By the way, I now have two Star Gazers. Mine has the original reproduction backglass while the new one is the Coos mirrored glass. They both look great. I would say the mirrored one is better but it is also more expensive. You really can't go wrong.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice touch on the coin drop inserts.

#8771 9 months ago

After seeing your green apron... I actually think that Star Gazer would look a LOT better with a green base color on the cabinet. I can't stand blue displays. For anyone with blue eyes, they are hard to see and give you a headache.

#8772 9 months ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

After seeing your green apron... I actually think that Star Gazer would look a LOT better with a green base color on the cabinet. I can't stand blue displays. For anyone with blue eyes, they are hard to see and give you a headache.

Green? I am so confused now..

#8773 9 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Green? I am so confused now..

Me, too.

#8774 9 months ago

The stripes on the apron are actually yellow, but in your pic they look olive green.

11
#8775 9 months ago

On its way to be delivered! This Star Gazer is a little over 2 years in the making, granted 18 of those months were just gathering the parts. Since the agreement was made to build it I’ve experienced a miscarriage, a second pregnancy, a marriage, a job change, a baby boy, a move and then my first year as a father. This machine is headed across the country. I greatly appreciate the patience and understanding of the fellow pinsider who hired me to build this one and I hope he enjoys it for years to come!

Thank you to everyone out there making parts so these builds are possible and to everyone documenting their builds along the way so we can each learn.

I’ve got parts to build one more Star Gazer hopefully for myself eventually but after today I’m taking a freaking break.

IMG_5997 (resized).jpegIMG_5997 (resized).jpegIMG_5988 (resized).jpegIMG_5988 (resized).jpegIMG_5992 (resized).jpegIMG_5992 (resized).jpegIMG_5994 (resized).jpegIMG_5994 (resized).jpegIMG_6003 (resized).jpegIMG_6003 (resized).jpegIMG_5981 (resized).jpegIMG_5981 (resized).jpeg

#8776 9 months ago

Nice work.

Tell me about the flipper buttons, please. They are not white. Are they the Stern style?

#8777 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Nice work.
Tell me about the flipper buttons, please. They are not white. Are they the Stern style?

They are the ones Zitt makes

#8778 9 months ago

My Stars’ green star doesn’t register. I’ve tested the switch continuity, open and closed, and it’s as it should be. It’s missing its capacitor, but the switch doesn’t register quick hits in game or when I manually close the switch with the glass off, so I don’t think that’s the underlying problem either. Looking at the switch matrix, everything else on the white/blue wire is behaving normally, but on the brown/yellow wire, I have the Star 2 not registering, and then I have drop target 3, which doesn’t score or chime, and depending on the order the targets are hit, it won’t trigger a bank reset if it’s the last target to be hit. 7551BC07-9189-452F-B584-43E3F66E0E18 (resized).jpeg7551BC07-9189-452F-B584-43E3F66E0E18 (resized).jpeg
The drops behavior is all over the place as well, in the 1, 2, 3 bank. If I knock them down 3 - 2 - 1, then they reset as they should, only the 3 doesn’t score or chime. But if I go 1 then 2, the game scores a drop target hit over and over endlessly until the end of the ball. And if I go 2 - 1 - 3 the bank won’t reset until I knock down 4, 5, and 6.

I’m failing to spot anything out of place as far as switches or wires. Any suggestions?

#8779 9 months ago

Question for those who repair machines. I just brought a Meteor back to life, the first machine I've tried to do this much work on. Had to rebuild the drops, re-pin most of the molex, replace the rectifier, replace some coils etc... move a few wires that were in the wrong locations on the MPU and now I'm enjoying it after months of frustration.

Along the way I made mistakes, this happens when you learn, and I've accepted it as part of the experience. I'm still learning how to read the schematics but I'm getting better after all the trial and error on Meteor and wire mapping. During this process I've somehow blown all the control lights on the playfield, which I had working at one point. I'm pretty sure this happened when I realized I had the white wire on my rectifier (top left molex, 8 connections) one spot over (far right when it should have been second from right) and I shifted it recognizing my error. My solenoids weren't firing at that time either. I *think* I somehow got my solenoid and control light wires reversed (or something related to control light wire) and since that moment I haven't been able to get the control lights on my playfield back. I confused the all blue wire with the blue with white stripes wire. I assumed I blew something, would make sense, but after swapping out my fuses, the lamp board for a working one I had on hand they're still dead. I thought it might be a re-pin issue on the rectifier but I've done that again and nothing. I checked all the soldering points on the back of the rectifier and they seem strong. Any ideas where to begin?

#8780 9 months ago
Quoted from splattii:

Question for those who repair machines. I just brought a Meteor back to life, the first machine I've tried to do this much work on. Had to rebuild the drops, re-pin most of the molex, replace the rectifier, replace some coils etc... move a few wires that were in the wrong locations on the MPU and now I'm enjoying it after months of frustration.
Along the way I made mistakes, this happens when you learn, and I've accepted it as part of the experience. I'm still learning how to read the schematics but I'm getting better after all the trial and error on Meteor and wire mapping. During this process I've somehow blown all the control lights on the playfield, which I had working at one point. I'm pretty sure this happened when I realized I had the white wire on my rectifier (top left molex, 8 connections) one spot over (far right when it should have been second from right) and I shifted it recognizing my error. My solenoids weren't firing at that time either. I *think* I somehow got my solenoid and control light wires reversed (or something related to control light wire) and since that moment I haven't been able to get the control lights on my playfield back. I confused the all blue wire with the blue with white stripes wire. I assumed I blew something, would make sense, but after swapping out my fuses, the lamp board for a working one I had on hand they're still dead. I thought it might be a re-pin issue on the rectifier but I've done that again and nothing. I checked all the soldering points on the back of the rectifier and they seem strong. Any ideas where to begin?

This might be pretty simple. Check the bulbs. If you hooked it up wrong you could have cooked them all. I have seen it done many times.

#8781 9 months ago
Quoted from trecemaneras:

My Stars’ green star doesn’t register. I’ve tested the switch continuity, open and closed, and it’s as it should be. It’s missing its capacitor, but the switch doesn’t register quick hits in game or when I manually close the switch with the glass off, so I don’t think that’s the underlying problem either. Looking at the switch matrix, everything else on the white/blue wire is behaving normally, but on the brown/yellow wire, I have the Star 2 not registering, and then I have drop target 3, which doesn’t score or chime, and depending on the order the targets are hit, it won’t trigger a bank reset if it’s the last target to be hit. [quoted image]
The drops behavior is all over the place as well, in the 1, 2, 3 bank. If I knock them down 3 - 2 - 1, then they reset as they should, only the 3 doesn’t score or chime. But if I go 1 then 2, the game scores a drop target hit over and over endlessly until the end of the ball. And if I go 2 - 1 - 3 the bank won’t reset until I knock down 4, 5, and 6.
I’m failing to spot anything out of place as far as switches or wires. Any suggestions?

First. make sure all your switch contacts are squeaky clean. When the instructions say to burnish the contacts with a business they mean BURNISH them. A business card will work but a length of paper from a manilla file folder works well. pinch those switches tight and burnish them. If you are leaving black trails on the paper the switches are not clean.

Also, on the drops, take a close look and make sure the switches are closing tightly.

If you are still having problems then come back.

Oh, yeah, check the diode on the drop target switch to make sure you are wired correctly.

#8782 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

BURNISH them.

If you are still having problems then come back.
Oh, yeah, check the diode on the drop target switch to make sure you are wired correctly.

Thanks for the suggestion. I burnished them with a blank white notecard until they didn’t leave any more marks on the paper. They didn’t seem especially dirty, but there was a bit.

Same behavior. The green star switch and the drop 3 switch don’t register. Their wiring appears to match the working switches.
Here’s the star switch: FA5E91DA-AC6E-44B6-AF79-7FBB3335C677 (resized).jpegFA5E91DA-AC6E-44B6-AF79-7FBB3335C677 (resized).jpegE5468F33-7064-42C7-8563-6A2A6D7F2E42 (resized).jpegE5468F33-7064-42C7-8563-6A2A6D7F2E42 (resized).jpeg

#8783 9 months ago
Quoted from trecemaneras:

Thanks for the suggestion. I burnished them with a blank white notecard until they didn’t leave any more marks on the paper. They didn’t seem especially dirty, but there was a bit.
Same behavior. The green star switch and the drop 3 switch don’t register. Their wiring appears to match the working switches.
Here’s the star switch: [quoted image][quoted image]

One thing at a time:

Try reflowing the solder on the green star switch. I have had solder joints go dead on me with my car.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

I am running into a switch issue myself. 3 place drop target. All switches were working until one wasn't. I pulling hair to figure this one out.

#8784 9 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

This might be pretty simple. Check the bulbs. If you hooked it up wrong you could have cooked them all. I have seen it done many times.

Thank you very much. You saved me a few days of frustration and also helped me finish the restore. Just need to swap out all of the playfield control lights and I can put the glass on it and move her in line to enjoy. Would never have imagined I could blow them all at the exact same time!

#8785 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

One thing at a time:
Try reflowing the solder on the green star switch.

I reflowed the solder on all three connections to the green star switch. Still no response. Also, I realized, the rollover that’s next to the green star in the switch matrix doesn’t work either. So all three of the playfield switches on that brown-yellow wire are dead.

#8786 9 months ago
Quoted from trecemaneras:

So all three of the playfield switches on that brown-yellow wire are dead

Look for a broken connection. You may have to go all the way to the board and check the pin. Maybe just go ahead and repin it to be sure.

#8787 9 months ago

I found my switch problem on the play field I am building.

Bad switch lug.

IMG_3342 (resized).jpgIMG_3342 (resized).jpg

It was cracked and would show continuity but not allow voltage thru.

IMG_3345 (resized).jpgIMG_3345 (resized).jpg

#8788 9 months ago
Quoted from splattii:

Thank you very much. You saved me a few days of frustration and also helped me finish the restore. Just need to swap out all of the playfield control lights and I can put the glass on it and move her in line to enjoy. Would never have imagined I could blow them all at the exact same time!

Tip: order a 4-AA battery holder from Amazon and splice alligator clips to the lead wires. Also keep a good, brand new socket (bayonet and wedge) on hand. First thing I do with any dead bulb is hook up that 6v direct to the socket - if the socket and bulb are good, it'll light right up and you can move on; if not put the bulb in your good socket and you'll know if the issue is the bulb or the socket.

Also, if the bulb works off the bat, move the positive lead higher up on the GI braid - if it no longer works you have a bad solder there. If you make the alligator leads long enough, you can find the originating pin on the lamp board and test continuity of the whole wire too. This sort of approach has saved me TONS of time.

#8789 9 months ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

Tip: order a 4-AA battery holder from Amazon and splice alligator clips to the lead wires. Also keep a good, brand new socket (bayonet and wedge) on hand. First thing I do with any dead bulb is hook up that 6v direct to the socket - if the socket and bulb are good, it'll light right up and you can move on; if not put the bulb in your good socket and you'll know if the issue is the bulb or the socket.
Also, if the bulb works off the bat, move the positive lead higher up on the GI braid - if it no longer works you have a bad solder there. If you make the alligator leads long enough, you can find the originating pin on the lamp board and test continuity of the whole wire too. This sort of approach has saved me TONS of time.

I have a little test light that does exactly what you describe--super helpful for troubleshooting lamp issues. Also helpful for testing switches!

PXL_20230605_133645807.jpgPXL_20230605_133645807.jpgPXL_20230605_134014875.jpgPXL_20230605_134014875.jpg
#8790 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Look for a broken connection. You may have to go all the way to the board and check the pin. Maybe just go ahead and repin it to be sure.

That did it! That brown/yellow wire is pinned with the flippers, and the connection fit loose enough to wiggle around inside the connector. When I unpinned it and clipped it to the corresponding pin on the board, everything worked.

Now to educate myself on these connectors…

#8791 9 months ago
Quoted from trecemaneras:

That did it! That brown/yellow wire is pinned with the flippers, and the connection fit loose enough to wiggle around inside the connector. When I unpinned it and clipped it to the corresponding pin on the board, everything worked.
Now to educate myself on these connectors…

Thanks for posting the solution. I have had that loose pin problem myself.

#8792 9 months ago

OK. What causes a light to lock on a soon as the pin is turned on? Is this a bad transistor? It is a Weebly lamp board.

All other lights are working great.

IMG_3350 (resized).jpgIMG_3350 (resized).jpg

#8793 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Is this a bad transistor?

The three times I've seen this on my SS pins in the past, it's been a blown transistor on the lamp board each time.

#8794 9 months ago

A while back I had some spinner decals made up on a clear print medium. I wanted to be able to paint my spinners my way, with my color choices, and not be limited to the decals on the pinball websites.

I have been wailing away on my Big Game for quite a few games and they look like they are holding up well. So, I will put these up for sale. I did not get very many printed up but I suppose I could get more if needed.

IMG_3361 (resized).jpgIMG_3361 (resized).jpg

Quicksilver spinners are supposed to be green graphics.

IMG_3370 (resized).JPGIMG_3370 (resized).JPG

IMG_3365 (resized).jpgIMG_3365 (resized).jpg

I need $7.00 per one set---front and back, two pieces--- for the red "S", the green "S", and black Big Game tiger. Includes postage for continental United States.

For the orange tiger, I need $9.00 for the two pieces.

IMG_3366 (resized).jpgIMG_3366 (resized).jpg
IMG_3367 (resized).jpgIMG_3367 (resized).jpg
IMG_3368 (resized).jpgIMG_3368 (resized).jpg
IMG_3369 (resized).jpgIMG_3369 (resized).jpg

Send me a PM if interested. Until I can figure out how to set up a pinside store.

Thanks.

#8795 9 months ago

For repinning the connector in the picture, I’ll need .156” crimp terminals and crimper, right?
https://www.pinballlife.com/156-trifurcon-crimp-terminals.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/all-in-one-crimping-tool-for-molex-0093-and-0156-terminals.html
FA7CFB15-FC1B-4CE8-BA09-9ED54F174F9E (resized).jpegFA7CFB15-FC1B-4CE8-BA09-9ED54F174F9E (resized).jpeg

(Apologies if connectors have been thoroughly covered - I looked through the tech stickies and a few pages of early ss tech posts, but didn’t spot anything to help me be certain of what I need)

#8796 9 months ago

That’s correct but I’d recommend buying a ratcheting crimper over that. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/sn-48b-crimping-tool-plier-0-5-1-5-mm-for-awg-26-16.html

#8797 9 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

That’s correct but I’d recommend buying a ratcheting crimper over that. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/sn-48b-crimping-tool-plier-0-5-1-5-mm-for-awg-26-16.html

I need to get a pair of these myself. Especially for that price.

#8798 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I need to get a pair of these myself. Especially for that price.

I just ordered one, plus a bunch of .156” crimp terminals. Shipping was a bit over $14. If we’d been on this a couple weeks ago, I could have ordered 2 and brought you yours when I picked up my Stars in Hesston, and saved us both a bit of shipping. I had half a mind to hit up you and ksuwildcatfan about meeting up, since my little road trip took me through both Wichita and Topeka.

#8799 9 months ago
Quoted from trecemaneras:

I had half a mind to hit up you and ksuwildcatfan about meeting up, since my little road trip took me through both Wichita and Topeka.

You should have come by.

Quoted from trecemaneras:

I just ordered one, plus a bunch of .156” crimp terminals

You also need some of the smaller .100 crimp pins for the MPU and the lamp board.

#8800 9 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You should have come by.

You also need some of the smaller .100 crimp pins for the MPU and the lamp board.

+1, definitely should have!

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/crimp-terminal-connector-2-54mm.html

What's up with the ends of these? Why are they flat like that?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 999.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
Flipper parts
From: £ 22.00
Electronics
Retro Electro Designs
Electronics
$ 45.00
Pinball Machine
Wall To Wall Pinball
Pinball Machine
5,995
Machine - For Sale
Spring Grove, IL
$ 859.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
Flipper parts
From: $ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 169.00
Boards
RoyGBev Pinball
Boards
$ 149.95
Boards
Allteksystems
Boards
$ 100.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
Shooter rods
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Middletown, OH
From: $ 30.00
Cabinet Parts
Rocket City Pinball
Cabinet parts
$ 189.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
Flipper parts
$ 12.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
UpKick Pinball
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
UpKick Pinball
Other
$ 199.95
From: $ 170.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
Displays
From: $ 170.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
Displays
$ 3.00
Cabinet Parts
20eyes
Cabinet parts
From: $ 1.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
7,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Sandusky, OH
$ 1.29
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 859.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
Flipper parts
8,700
Machine - For Sale
East Rochester, NY
$ 12.00
Hardware
20eyes
Hardware
From: $ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
Protection
$ 5.95
Playfield - Protection
The Pinball Scientist
Protection
From: $ 20.00
Various Novelties
Pinball Photos LLC
Various novelties
$ 300.00
Cabinet Parts
Fantastic Pinball Inc.
Cabinet parts
$ 20.00
Playfield - Protection
arcade-cabinets.com
Protection
$ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
Protection
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
There are 10,651 posts in this topic. You are on page 176 of 214.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/176 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.