(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

7 months ago



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There are 1467 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 30.
#751 3 months ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Where did you score the Galaxy? Not that project from Woodbridge I hope.

Ya that project from Woodbridge why?
It needs alot of work but I got a much better price then advertised.

#752 3 months ago

Stop! Hammertime! Thanks!

Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

Rustoleum Hammertone Gray
Jim

#753 3 months ago

Bump Gott-Lieb, my galaxy legs are grey as well!!

#754 3 months ago

Well the galaxy I purchased will be sitting for awhile before I get around to it so I figured I would tackle the mpu alkaline damage before I store it.
Game booted up and played when I bought it so I figured the damage cant be that bad. Boy was I wrong. Battery was actually leaking liquid alkaline onto the lamp board.

I removed the mpu, clipped the battery then rinsed in acid toilet bowl cleaner while scrubbing the damage.

Then a rinse in 99% isopropyl alcohol and a blow dry with my compressor and air gun.

Next remove all damaged components and all headers, then refloat solder on any bare copper.

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#755 3 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Well the galaxy I purchased will be sitting for awhile before I get around to it so I figured I would tackle the mpu alkaline damage before I store it.
Game booted up and played when I bought it so I figured the damage cant be that bad. Boy was I wrong. Battery was actually leaking liquid alkaline onto the lamp board.
I removed the mpu, clipped the battery then rinsed in acid toilet bowl cleaner while scrubbing the damage.
Then a rinse in 99% isopropyl alcohol and a blow dry with my compressor and air gun.
Next remove all damaged components and all headers, then refloat solder on any bare copper.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

And the seller said that everything was in great shape. Good thing he didn't get his asking price.

#756 3 months ago

I've got a Stars for trade in Richmond, VA if anyone is interested. Projects ok.

#757 3 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Next remove all damaged components and all headers, then refloat solder on any bare copper.

Do yourself a favor. Now that you've removed all that damaged crap from the reset section, replace it with a Dallas reset generator. You only need to put back a couple of components that way.

#758 3 months ago

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#759 3 months ago

Mmmm...nice and shiny!

#760 3 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Do yourself a favor. Now that you've removed all that damaged crap from the reset section, replace it with a Dallas reset generator. You only need to put back a couple of components that way.

Where can you buy these, & what is the part #?

#761 3 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Do yourself a favor. Now that you've removed all that damaged crap from the reset section, replace it with a Dallas reset generator. You only need to put back a couple of components that way.

I have no idea what this is.

#762 3 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Battery was actually leaking liquid alkaline onto the lamp board.

Dammit Mitch it's going to be leaking on your crotch if you don't look out!

#763 3 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Dammit Mitch it's going to be leaking on your crotch if you don't look out!

Rofl

#764 3 months ago

Newest addition to the garage:
Needs some switch matrix help, but very clean overall!

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#765 3 months ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Newest addition to the garage:
Needs some switch matrix help, but very clean overall!
[quoted image]

Nice great game I love mine. Just wish I coul get the "ramp" to work right.
Have mine bent down so the ball drags which means it gets stuck sometime but if i loosen it the ball launches off the wireform and back onto the playfeild.

#766 3 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Nice great game I love mine. Just wish I coul get the "ramp" to work right.
Have mine bent down so the ball drags which means it gets stuck sometime but if i loosen it the ball launches off the wireform and back onto the playfeild.

This one does that intermittently, Ill look into it and see what works. Do you have the right coil in there?

#767 3 months ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:This one does that intermittently, Ill look into it and see what works. Do you have the right coil in there?

Not sure I have to check that still. I'm pretty sure it's original.

If you ever want to sell let me know. My playfeild and backglass are rough.

#768 3 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

I have no idea what this is.

http://www.pinrepair.com/gp/#mpu - Go to the section headed "Replacing the MPU-2 Reset Section with a Dallas DS1811 or MicroChip MCP101"

#769 3 months ago
Quoted from semicolin:

http://www.pinrepair.com/gp/#mpu - Go to the section headed "Replacing the MPU-2 Reset Section with a Dallas DS1811 or MicroChip MCP101"

That's for a game plan mpu

#770 3 months ago

Found it for the bally/stern mpus says it's not really worth doing.

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#771 3 months ago

I disagree with what Chris stated in the PW, where it is not worth it. I've done it several times, and prefer to always use less components when there has been battery damage. Plus, you no longer need +12v in the reset section and you can remove that toaster oven of a resistor, R11, which commonly fails. Here's a pic of how I do it. This is on an MPU-200.

Jim

MPU-200_Done (resized).JPG
#772 3 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

I disagree with what Chris stated in the PW, where it is not worth it. I've done it several times, and prefer to always use less components when there has been battery damage. Plus, you no longer need +12v in the reset section and you can remove that toaster oven of a resistor, R11, which commonly fails. Here's a pic of how I do it. This is on an MPU-200.
Jim
[quoted image]

Oh, and if you do it this way, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you remove TP2, so you don't accidentally power it with +12v on the bench. That TP I believe is tied to the +5v when this is all said and done. Due to this risk, I did not want to post this method on the PW for fear of people blowing up their boards. So, PROCEED WITH CAUTION when doing it this way.

Jim

#773 3 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

I disagree with what Chris stated in the PW, where it is not worth it. I've done it several times, and prefer to always use less components when there has been battery damage. Plus, you no longer need +12v in the reset section and you can remove that toaster oven of a resistor, R11, which commonly fails. Here's a pic of how I do it. This is on an MPU-200.
Jim
[quoted image]

I totally agree with Jim. The Dallas reset generator is the only way I do it now and would never go back to the factory circuit.

My notes say R11 is needed, so Jim obviously does this a different way, but here's what's needed in my method:
R11 82ohm 1W resistor
CR7 1N4148 diode
CR5 1N4148 diode
R12 270 ohm 1/4W resistor
C13 .01 disc cap

^^^ These are components in the original circuit that you will need to replace if damaged by corrosion or keep if converting an undamaged board (where the reset circuit has failed, but there is no corrosion.)

Also needed:
Dallas reset generator (in Q5 location, more info below)
1K 1/4W resistor

==================================================================================

If you're converting an undamaged board, you only need to remove the following components:
R1
R138
R139
R140
Q5

To install the Dallas reset generator:
Run a jumper between the bottom leg of R138 and the top leg of R139 (this can be seen in Jim's pic)
Run the 1K 1/4W resistor from right hole of R140 to the top hole of Q5

That's it -- really simple -- remove 5 components, install a jumper and 2 new components and you're done.

PinWiki says to use a Dallas 1811 reset generator, but you can use others as well. I'm using a Dallas 1233 in my conversions because I got a great deal on 50 of them on ebay.
The difference on these chips is the voltage required to generate a reset, the length of time allowed for the power to stabilize, and the pinout of the chip. The 1811 gives the power supply a little more time to stabilize than the stock Q1, Q5 circuit and the 1233 gives even more time than the 1811, I believe. We're talking a difference of a couple hundred nano seconds here, so you'll never notice the difference when you boot the game.

Here are the pinouts of Q5, so that you can orient whichever chip you decide to use correctly:
Top hole = Reset
Left hole = GND
Right hole = Vcc

#774 3 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

I totally agree with Jim. The Dallas reset generator is the only way I do it now and would never go back to the factory circuit.
My notes say R11 is needed, so Jim obviously does this a different way, but here's what's needed in my method:
R11 82ohm 1W resistor
CR7 1N4148 diode
CR5 1N4148 diode
R12 270 ohm 1/4W resistor
C13 .01 disc cap
^^^ These are components in the original circuit that you will need to replace if damaged by corrosion or keep if converting an undamaged board (where the reset circuit has failed, but there is no corrosion.)
Also needed:
Dallas reset generator (in Q5 location, more info below)
1K 1/4W resistor
==================================================================================
If you're converting an undamaged board, you only need to remove the following components:
R1
R138
R139
R140
Q5
To install the Dallas reset generator:
Run a jumper between the bottom leg of R138 and the top leg of R139 (this can be seen in Jim's pic)
Run the 1K 1/4W resistor from right hole of R140 to the top hole of Q5
That's it -- really simple -- remove 5 components, install a jumper and 2 new components and you're done.
PinWiki says to use a Dallas 1811 reset generator, but you can use others as well. I'm using a Dallas 1233 in my conversions because I got a great deal on 50 of them on ebay.
The difference on these chips is the voltage required to generate a reset, the length of time allowed for the power to stabilize, and the pinout of the chip. The 1811 gives the power supply a little more time to stabilize than the stock Q1, Q5 circuit and the 1233 gives even more time than the 1811, I believe. We're talking a difference of a couple hundred nano seconds here, so you'll never notice the difference when you boot the game.
Here are the pinouts of Q5, so that you can orient whichever chip you decide to use correctly:
Top hole = Reset
Left hole = GND
Right hole = Vcc

I failed to mention that I use a Microchip reset generator, not a Dallas. We stock all types of configurations for WMS 3-7, 9, 11, 1st gen. Ni-Wumpf, GTB Sys80/A/B, DE, and classic Bally / Stern. Judging by R2's value in my pic (4.7k), and Bill's pinout above, I'm assuming that I used an MCP120-460GI/TO here. If you can get a hold of an MCP130-460GI/TO (Ed @ GPE does not stock these), you would not need the extra pull up resistor at R2.

IIRC, a lot of the original components can stay in on a non-roached board, but I primarily end up with battery puked MPU-200s more times than not.

Jim

#775 3 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Well the galaxy I purchased will be sitting for awhile before I get around to it so I figured I would tackle the mpu alkaline damage before I store it.
Game booted up and played when I bought it so I figured the damage cant be that bad. Boy was I wrong. Battery was actually leaking liquid alkaline onto the lamp board.
I removed the mpu, clipped the battery then rinsed in acid toilet bowl cleaner while scrubbing the damage.
Then a rinse in 99% isopropyl alcohol and a blow dry with my compressor and air gun.
Next remove all damaged components and all headers, then refloat solder on any bare copper.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Major surgery! Looks like she will survive though. Nice work!

#776 3 months ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Coming along nicely. Purdy!

#777 3 months ago

Diving into lightning next. Definitely say awhile. Missing many board. Anyone have a vsu-100 speech board? It’s the only one I’m worried about. I think I have a lead on one but it’s sketchy

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#778 3 months ago

And that driver board is useless...

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#779 3 months ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

And that driver board is useless...
[quoted image]

What's wrong with it?

>>>Nevermind, I see the missing IC now.

#780 3 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

What's wrong with it?
>>>Nevermind, I see the missing IC now.

Both are obsolete, but replacements are available for very little expense:

U1, U3, U4: CA3081 transistor array:
Assemble your own replacement: https://nvram.weebly.com/transistors-and-transistor-kits.html
Get it from Marco while supplies last: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CA3081

U2: 74154 decoder:
Marco: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/74154
Great Plains: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=74HCT154
Jameco: https://www.jameco.com/z/74LS154-Major-Brands-4-TO-16-LINE-DECODER-DEMULTIPLEXER-DIP-24_46738.html

#781 3 months ago

Don't forget the 2 salty 2N3440s too!

#782 3 months ago

Yeah. The more you look the more you see missing. Q14 and on are all robbed too. I’ve got plenty of these boards kicking around anyways. It’s the one I’m least worried about.

#783 3 months ago

Got my meteor parts in today from a fellow pinsider, I'll let him come forward if he wants to be known.

Thanks again!

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#784 3 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Got my meteor parts in today from a fellow pinsider, I'll let him come forward if he wants to be known.
Thanks again!
[quoted image]

It is always a relief to hear when the package arrives.

I trust you are satisfied with the package and hope you found my descriptions of the parts accurate.

EDIT: I cannot thank you enough for getting the ball rolling with Mirco to start producing repro Quicksilver play fields.

#785 3 months ago

Even the displays were robbed for components.

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#786 3 months ago

Start stripping the topside. More work to go still.

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#787 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I trust you are satisfied with the package and hope you found my descriptions of the parts accurate.

Very happy!! Thanks again.

#788 3 months ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Even the displays were robbed for components

It's incredible the amount of effort that stupid people will invest on saving $0.05 on a resistor. Hard to find ICs... sure. Fine. Whatever. Poaching a board for resistors that are undersized anyway? Aaaaaauuuugghhh

...but still fixable. I might. But I'm not looking after dozens of games.

#789 3 months ago
Quoted from Gott_Lieb:

Don't forget the 2 salty 2N3440s too!

Wow, yep, you're right. Missed that. The more I stare at it the more fun it looks to fix. Ship it North! I was just in Meriden last week, shame everything was closed.

In case anyone needs help finding 2N3440, you can use it or its brother, the 2N3439:
Digikey: https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/central-semiconductor-corp/2N3440/2N3440CS-ND/4806865
Marco: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/2N3440
GPE: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2N3439

#790 3 months ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Diving into lightning next. Definitely say awhile. Missing many board. Anyone have a vsu-100 speech board? It’s the only one I’m worried about. I think I have a lead on one but it’s sketchy

I have a speech board for lightning. PM me if it can help you.

#791 3 months ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Wow, yep, you're right. Missed that. The more I stare at it the more fun it looks to fix. Ship it North! I was just in Meriden last week, shame everything was closed.
In case anyone needs help finding 2N3440, you can use it or its brother, the 2N3439:
Digikey: https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/central-semiconductor-corp/2N3440/2N3440CS-ND/4806865
Marco: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/2N3440
GPE: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2N3439

Send me a message next time your in the area. I’m always willing to open up if I’m around.

#792 3 months ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

I have a speech board for lightning. PM me if it can help you.

Think I’ve got one now but will let you know if it doesn’t work.

#793 3 months ago

Okay, I need to replace the power cord on Meteor, I have a 3 plug cord saved from a dehumidifier, BUT the red and white wires are NOT red and white on the original, both are black.

I'm not tech savvy when it comes to the electrical stuff, how do I use my meter to read which is positive and negative at the source (where the plug is soldered in).

Thanks, sorry if this was already posted, couldn't find any mention of it.

-Nate

#794 3 months ago

The left blade of the plug is the neutral (white) wire, the right hot (red). Follow the wire from the plug and you can tell which is which at the solder point.

#795 3 months ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Start stripping the topside. More work to go still.
[quoted image]

Man you are on a roll!!!

#796 3 months ago
Quoted from semicolin:

It's incredible the amount of effort that stupid people will invest on saving $0.05 on a resistor. Hard to find ICs... sure. Fine. Whatever. Poaching a board for resistors that are undersized anyway? Aaaaaauuuugghhh
...but still fixable. I might. But I'm not looking after dozens of games.

I live in a city of 400,000 people. All of the Radio Shacks closed when RS went out of biz. And we always had a local diehard type electronic store that recently closed its doors after 50 years. Here I am, 20% into the 21st Century and my only option for buying electronics parts is online. So, if I am in a hurry, I am just hosed. Add in mail order prices and it is no longer a $0.05 resistor.

The guy who robbed those parts probably had no other options.

#797 3 months ago
Quoted from atariaction:

Man you are on a roll!!!

Hot hand, dracula and seawitch playfield swap all in the queue right after!

#798 3 months ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

The left blade of the plug is the neutral (white) wire, the right hot (red). Follow the wire from the plug and you can tell which is which at the solder point.

Thanks!!

-Nate

#799 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I live in a city of 400,000 people. All of the Radio Shacks closed when RS went out of biz. And we always had a local diehard type electronic store that recently closed its doors after 50 years. Here I am, 20% into the 21st Century and my only option for buying electronics parts in online. So, if I am in a hurry, I am just hosed. Add in mail order prices and it is no longer a $0.05 resistor.
The guy who robbed those parts probably had no other options.

Well said. I reuse parts whenever I can. It's very time consuming and inefficient to buy a .20 part, pay $5 shipping, and wait 3-7 days to receive it when I can just recycle from a pile of good parts.

The surplus electronics store I frequented for 15+ years has zero parts for machines any more. They were the go to option for resistors, diodes and transistors but now, they are very picked over and the last time I went there with a list of 5 parts, they had none of them. Guess I don't have to ever go back there again.

There are very few stores like this left in America and the fact that some of them have been around for half a century and are closed because of the so called "convenient internet" is so sad.

#800 3 months ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Hot hand, dracula and seawitch playfield swap all in the queue right after!

You are an animal!!!!!!!

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