Have a Seawitch where a prior owner rebuilt flippers using all new assemblies. I noticed that my lower left flipper was all but dragging on the playfield, while my right flipper had a nice gap. I pulled both flipper bats off and found that the right flipper has, from what I can tell the (more?) correct flipper bushing *and* on the top side, a small spacer that goes between the flipper bushing and the flipper. It's roughly 11mm outer diameter and ~1.5mm thick.

The left side bushing appears to be incorrect and ironically was a bit longer than the one on the right side, but without the spacer on the top side, it seems able to go above the plane in which the bottom side of the flipper moves. That is, the bottom of the flipper sits lower than the top of the bushing.

I have another bushing that matches the right side, so if install that on the left side and 3d print a matching top side spacer I think it will work well.

However -- Is there normally a top side washer on Stern games? If not, I'm assuming that means the right side bushing is technically too short, even though it works well with the spacer. (And most likely due to how the new flipper assemblies are put together, as you can see under the plates that the bushings originally would've screwed directly into the wood.) Are these new assemblies meant for Stern games or has someone sort of retrofitted these to work? I can see there are old holes under the flipper plate not used by the new one.

For reference, here is the right side flipper mech (plates have holes meant for bushings to mount into):PXL_20230224_051757909 (resized).jpg

And how the right side bushing comes through top side (it's roughly flush, if not ever so slightly recessed): PXL_20230224_051809781 (resized).jpg

And right side flipper with spacer. (You can see how the bushing would break the bottom plane of the flipper without the spacer.): PXL_20230224_051844833 (resized).jpg

https://www.pinballlife.com/nylon-flipper-shaft-spacer.html

Yes, it’s a common use item on these to prevent flipper drag.

It’s possible the Gen1 Stern 1-1/8” bushing was accidentally installed instead of the 1-3/8” Gen2 bushing?

Makes sense. Thanks for confirming! I'll have to double check bushing lengths, but you're likely correct, as even the right side seems like it should be a bit longer (but works with the spacer).

Looking for the infamous left-side playfield plastic for "Pinball"... also a couple bumper caps that aren't burnt.

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I have the bottom half of that plastic that was with the plastics on a salvage Pinball I bought. I don't know where the top part is. What you see is what I have. I'd like to find a home for all of these plastics.

You will have to click on the link for pics. post # 7833

Pinball Resource makes new pop bumper caps in house. http://www.pbresource.com/pfbumper.htm

Last time I asked he had none and no plan to make any.

Dug back through my photos and unfortunately the Pinball EM I recently parted out didn't have any plastics, nor pop caps on it when I bought it. Good luck with the search.

Cleaning up some parts and I'm genuinely curious why the coil support brackets on the pop bumper assemblies and slingshot assemblies are different. Can they be used interchangeably? If not, why?
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Also, why do some of the brackets have an in-set for the coil and others don't? I was thinking it was the difference between a slingshot and a pop bumper again, but these two were both pulled from slingshot assemblies.
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I have an original Stargazer that I need to sell. Everything is original and has survived well, except the PF. I have a GWJ repo and new plastics in th sealed bag.

Which path should I take?

Sell it as is with the PF
Do the swap and then sell it

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The one on the left houses the triangular pop bumper fiber and the triangular pop bumper fiber support and keep the pop spring in place. I never saw one like the one on the right.

I hive some with the in-set I got from a box of parts I bought at TPF a few years ago. IIRC, they came from a Wild Fyre. I'd like to know the answer for this, too.

Pinside IDK. Haven't figured that one out yet.

IPDB use advanced search as suggested. Pinball. Stern Electronics 1977-84. SS game with MPU-100. Returns 1 result. Scroll down for a link to the EM version.

Check Marco’s site as he buys from PBR and marks up. Other option is to ask Steve if he sells a cap that’s hot stamped red around the base with blank top, then print on a clear label.

Sell it as is. Those playfields are super soft. It really should be ceramic coated before it gets installed. The new place making them does the ceramic coating now, and it makes a world of difference.

The one on the right is standard to the slingshot assemblies with the J26-1500 coil. But is there any reason using the pop bumper ones with the extra fork wouldn't be ok to use on a slingshot?

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Probably depends on when you got your pf from GWJ. Mine was a later run with an automotive clear coat and it was pretty great.

Marco has zilch. PBR has blanks in a rainbow of colors.

I gave up trying to keep a printer functional ages ago. Last one I had that was worth a damn used pinfeed paper and a black ribbon.

If you can make it fit I don't see why you can't do that. You can hack saw that one end with the crescent cut away. Looks like the screw holes line up. All you are doing is holding a coil in position. All plunger impact forces are on the other coil stop.

It is worth a try.

Would this work for you? I know the text is red and not blue, but.............I am learning I will never get to 100% restored like new. It sucks having to be a begger and take what you can get.

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https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3713-37

Speaking of, Marco has stocked out of several pop bumper caps.

Sounds like PBR has made its runs of pop caps. And when they are gone they are gone?

Pbr said they won’t make this title again, not that he won’t make any more of any title. Also, Marcos buys 95% of their caps from Pbr so just because they’re out of several titles means their Buyer hasn’t gotten around to reordering.

Banditry! PBR sells those for $2.01 less. each.

I sort of got the impression that this was a stamp he didn't have. Pinball, Stingray, Disco, and Rawhide, and a couple GamePlan titles in blue. That's what use these.

Yeah the Bally caps would work just like their boards do. Yeah it would just be me and two other guys on the planet who might know. but.

Any specific suggestions for a replacement speaker for a classic stern? Seawitch in this case if it matters.

These are great. The sound difference is astonishing.

6.5 Inch Car Midbass Woofer - 250 Watt High Powered Car Audio Sound Component Speaker System w/High-Temperature Aluminum Voice Coil, 70Hz-9kHz Frequency, 92 dB, 8 Ohm, 25 oz Magnet - Pyle PDMW6 https://a.co/d/fYMlu6j

I put one of these in the Meteor I restored - very pleased with it:

DS18 PRO-GM6.4 Loudspeaker - 6.5", Midrange, Black Steel Basket, 480W Max, 140W RMS, 4 Ohms

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082WHZPQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Marco is the high pricer in pinball part, IMO. And as you say, PBR is stocked out and has none to sell

I have been using these car speakers. Sounds great in Seawitch. You get the highs for the squeal that Seawitch makes on the orbit shots.

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-CH6530-Car-Speakers/dp/B000J1FABY/ref=sr_1_1

And prices have gone up a little bit.

I would recommend the Pyle PDMW6 too. That's what I use. It drops in place with no modifications and is the correct ohms (8). Others are using 4 ohm speakers, but I fear that puts additional stress on the game's amplifier circuit.

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I always set my machines as steep as they’ll go. I’ve been known to grab a chunk of 1” plywood and put it under the back legs if I’m still not satisfied at the speed.

Hey man. I'm still alive. I had some major projects come up and then the company I work for got acquired by a massive corporation so I have been focused on that.

rcbrown316 I have been focused on that.

Relax and have beer!

Playball!!

Glad to see the man with a game room full of classic Sterns is still around.

I like steep. I like fast. But Seawitch taught me that there has to be a balance. I have Seawitch set close to 6 degrees of slope. Big Game, OTOH, is set at 7.5 and is fast, furious, with great shots.

Brought a couple home tonight. The plan was to shop and polish up the Magic to sell and keep the F2K but it's decidedly average/slightly below average so I'm not sure now. Definitely feeling like I overpaid for what I got but I'll make something out if it... might try my hand at touching it up to see if I can at least hide the ugliness somewhat. Idk.

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F2K is a game that could really benefit from a Hardtop. Surprised it hasn’t been made yet.

I’ve got a couple wall hanger playfields that are already stripped down and in possibly, marginally better shape. Just thinking if you would like to try your hand at touch ups on an already pulled pf. Are you coming to TPF?

Yeah I may try touching this up. Nothing to lose, really. I would 100% put a hardtop on it. I think F2k would work great with one.

In not going but a bunch of my friends are. Someday I do need to try going.

I'm doing a shop and swap on our seawitch now. Had it for a few months, could tell a couple of the flippers were weak but it played fine and everyone really enjoyed it. Hadn't messed with anything because I was planning to swap when I got time. Now that I'm tearing it down I find:

- every plunger/stop/sleeve was trashed (not surprising)
- one of the "weak" flippers had a single screw holding in the mech
- one of the mechs was entirely wrong, and not an upgrade (pretty sure it's outta an em)

I'm almost afraid of how fast this thing is gonna play when I'm done....

Dupe, delete

I played one with a playfield protector, it was not a good experience. Different than a hardtop of course, the playfield protector had enough give you could actually see it ripple as the ball went over the surface and change direction.

My only apprehension with a hardtop on f2k is that I've NOT liked the experience on any bally games I've hardtopped (mata hari, eight ball deluxe). Given the similarities between bally and SEI stern, it makes me nervous. I think F2k could work though.

I think hardtops are fantastic on most Williams games though. Not sure why I've not liked them on Bally games.

Honestly I agree about the classic Bally experience with Hardtops. The ball spins like a top. Just so many F2K’s are blown out and the cost of a CPR is pretty rough.

Stumped…

Right flippers on my Big Game are out again. They were working, then started to rapidly pulse when the flipper button was activated. Then they died.

Few days later, they were working again, then started to rapidly pulse. No dead.

Reflowed solder. Got no result…

Ideas?

There's something about Williams games that just works *perfectly* with hardtops. I loved how my Space Shuttle plays. I love how my High Speed plays. Pinbot is good. I've not played them myself but I hear F-14, Blackout, Comet, and Taxi are all magnificent. But as for Bally.. 0/2 from my personal experience. There's just something I don't like about it and I can't seem to figure out why. Could be also that I despise Mata Hari in general, so really I'm 0/1. I dunno. I've not heard of anyone hardtopping a Catacomb yet...that seemed like such a weird offering to begin with.

I will 100% hardtop this F2K if they offer one for sale. Granted, from first glance my backglass doesn't appear to be particularly wonderful either so I guess I'd be buying a new one of those also....

FYI, don't know who's tried the Precision Flippers system w/ metal bushings and flippers, but I love them on my modern games. Wouldn't really want to change the flippers themselves on these classic sterns myself, but he's looking into doing a run of some classic stern bushings... I'll definitely be upgrading mine if so, as the metal bushings really do improve flipper response.

I'm particularly interested as I've got one of those repro seawitch Playfields that looks gorgeous but has the flipper hole slightly off. Will feel a lot better enlarging the hole to line it up with the extra support from aluminum bushings.

Anyone know if these would be correct? The ground wire from the harness needs to be screwed on the side also? I want to make sure before I solder them in place.

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Yes. That ground wire needs to be screwed to the grounding strap that goes around the bottom of the cabinet. Otherwise your pin is not grounded.

the metal case of the line filter should be earth grounded. usually they are screwed into the ground braid.

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Thanks. Is the Hot and cold the correct orientation on this photo?

That play field protector was not built correctly. It has to be contacting a post somewhere on the play field. With the heat the controled lights put out the protector will "grow" due to thermal expansion. The slightest contact with any part on the play field will cause the protector to lift up and flex as the ball rolls over. I learned this the hard way and dealt with this rippling of which you speak.

To overcome cupped inserts ( and to prevent play field wear) I have made 5 protectors.

When I restored and cleared Big Game the protector went away. But it was those 27 bingo card lights that taught me about the thermal expansion and rippling.

Same with the Nine Ball that is getting a Mirco play field.

The protector I made for Laser Cue went with the pin when I sold; My buyer was happy with the play.

I donated my Seawitch protector to Shawn at 3rd Coast Pinball so he could have a play field pattern for producing the Seawitch wire harness. It is a beater play field but the pin plays well enough that I will not make another since I am going to be installing a Fantastic Pinball repro play field shortly.

I made one for my Catacomb 4-5 years ago. This pin plays fast and furious. I did buy a CPR repro play field but have decided this Catacomb, while not perfect, is too nice to restore. The protector will stay put. Last year I did do a topside shop job and pulled the protector and cleaned under it. As noted, this pin plays fast.

I also made a protector for another pinsider's Hot Hand. It was a brain tease on how to figure out how to work around those 10 chamfered holes at the big flipper but I figured out how to make the cuts. The buyer has been satisfied with it.

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Protectors work---if they are cut correctly.

The first two I made I used .030 polycarbonate. Then I moved to .020. .020 works well and is easier to cut and trim. I have also made one PETG and prefer the polycarbonate.

I could make one for Wildcat fan's F2K and it would play like it was glass. And when he drags his carcass down here and plays my Catacomb he may decide to keep her.

I'm sorry. I would need the line filter to be better lit so I can see the wire colors

Concur on that. Picked up a sweet hardtopped black knight a few years ago and just love the play.
Clear coated 2 flashes and was some of the best pinball I've played.