(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 7,290 posts
  • 365 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 199 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_1462 (resized).jpg
IMG_1461 (resized).jpg
IMG_1458 (resized).jpg
5BF65036-5DB1-43DE-B59D-FB1AC1CC7B57 (resized).jpeg
Screenshot 2022-09-19 193026 (resized).png
79B401FF-04CE-44B6-A46C-2FF480981330 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7129 (resized).jpg
20220917_180118 (resized).jpg
Screen Shot 2022-09-17 at 2.06.21 PM (resized).jpg
20220917_115350 (resized).jpg
IMG_1392 (resized).jpg
IMG_1391 (resized).jpg
IMG_1390 (resized).jpg
IMG_1389 (resized).jpg
IMG_1388 (resized).jpg
20220917_102610 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 7,290 posts in this topic. You are on page 146 of 146.
#7251 9 days ago
Quoted from clodpole:

The steeper you set your playfield, the faster the ball will move downward (toward the flippers) and slower it will move upward. If your playfield has slingshot kickers that face each other, like Flight 2000, steep playfields goof up how those kickers interact.
It's my preference to set the playfield angle lower, to allow kickers and pop bumpers to work the ball back-and-forth faster. Everyone (honest!) who plays my 70s-vintage games comments on how fast they play, and they're all set so the bottom of the cabinet is nearly level.
Experiment with lower angles and see what you think.

It all depends on the pin. I have my Big Game set up at 7%. It plays great. Not so much for Seawitch. I found the Witch orbit shots much more shot friendly when the pin is between 5.5% and 6%. Catacomb works best around 6.5%.

#7252 9 days ago

In general I start at 6 degree pitch with classic Sterns and slowly adjust steeper if it feels like it plays better.

#7253 7 days ago

Trying to tie up the last of the loose ends on my Stars project. Using the weebly lamp board and I have Comet non ghosting lights in the inserts...do I need this extra connector that runs from J5 on the lamp board? I assume it gets soldered somewhere to the backbox lamps but the inserts seem to behave fine?

20220917_102610 (resized).jpg
#7254 7 days ago
Quoted from KJL:

2 Coin door is the most rusted of all the games I have had, are there any threads on options to make presentable. Probably not worth it as I love how battle worn the cabinet is but curious what I can do.

You could take your coin door to a media blasting company and have blasted rust free. I don't know the cost. But it is very effective. The car guys do this a lot.

or

You can get a grinder wheel at Harbor Freight and get a paint stripping wheel and got most of the bad stuff cleaned off and ready for paint.

I got this abrasive wheel at Walmart. HF has them, too.

IMG_1388 (resized).jpg

IMG_1389 (resized).jpg

IMG_1390 (resized).jpg

Since you are probably going to be painting the door with hammertone paint, minor surface imperfections will not bother you.

IMG_1391 (resized).jpg

For the hard to reach areas you will have to use some sand paper and hand power. And you can wash the door down with some paint thinner, as well. Although, my choices are Acetone or Methyl Ethyl Ketone for a wash down. Wear gloves.

IMG_1392 (resized).jpg

Or you can buy a small plastic tub large enough to sink the coin door in and submerge it in some Evaporust. At which point, it might be more cost effective to locate a media/sand blasting company.

A Google Search shows at least 3 media blasting companies in Littleton.

https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=littleton+colorado+sand+blasting&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

#7255 7 days ago

I always drop my parts off at a sandblaster. 4 legs, door and frame run $30 in the LA area. Well worth it.

#7256 7 days ago

Hello all - Star Gazer is coming along nicely but things are going slower now thanks to my real job. Anyway, I have a slingshot question. I went with the parts that Cotton4 called out in this post (as most do).

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/70#post-5760223

I was going to reuse the plunger and links from Meteor but they have some miles on them and they don't match. One is 2 1/8" and the other is 1 15/16". As a result, I am buying new. What link and plunger would everyone recommend for this setup?
20220917_115350 (resized).jpg

#7257 7 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Hello all - Star Gazer is coming along nicely but things are going slower now thanks to my real job. Anyway, I have a slingshot question. I went with the parts that Cotton4 called out in this post (as most do).
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/70#post-5760223
I was going to reuse the plunger and links from Meteor but they have some miles on them and don't match. One is 2 1/8" and the other is 1 15/16". What link and plunger would everyone recommend for this setup?[quoted image]

I need to find a plunger for accurate measurement but I think 2 1/8" is the correct length. You want a plunger that is long enough to bottom on the coil stop. Too short of plunger then your sling shot lever will be pulled into the edge of the lever hole and possibly damage your play field.

Also, PBR has the original Stern plunger links made of nylon. It is personal preference I suppose, but I like the original nylons as opposed to the fiber links.

Screen Shot 2022-09-17 at 2.06.21 PM (resized).jpg

#7258 7 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I need to find a plunger for accurate measurement but I think 2 1/8" is the correct length. You want a plunger that is long enough to bottom on the coil stop. Too short of plunger then your sling shot lever will be pulled into the edge of the lever hole and possibly damage your play field.
Also, PBR has the original Stern plunger links made of nylon. It is personal preference I suppose, but I like the original nylons as opposed to the fiber links.
[quoted image]

2 1/8" is what I was leaning towards. Can someone confirm so I can place my Marco order.

#7259 7 days ago

Here is a photo of current Star Gazer progress. Still waiting on a new playfield harness. I have been told it will be ready any day now. There isn't much more I can do until it arrives.

20220917_180118 (resized).jpg
#7260 7 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Here is a photo of current Star Gazer progress. Still waiting on a new playfield harness. I have been told it will be ready any day now. There isn't much more I can do until it arrives.
[quoted image]

Looks great. Can you buy those metal side rails new?

#7261 7 days ago
Quoted from Pinzzz:

Looks great. Can you buy those metal side rails new?

Yes. Mantis Amusements

https://mantispinball.com/product/star-gazer-playfield-stiffners/

#7262 7 days ago

Do you think those would work on a CPR Meteor playfield?

#7263 7 days ago
Quoted from Pinzzz:

Do you think those would work on a CPR Meteor playfield?

They should but Meteor didn't come with them originally. What I would do for Meteor is make new wood rails out of oak and call it good. With oak installed there is no flex or sag at all.

#7264 7 days ago
Quoted from Pinzzz:

Do you think those would work on a CPR Meteor playfield?

Yes. They will work. My experience is that Stern was fairly consistent on where the holes were drilled ( don't know about CPR) in the play field so they should just screw right on. However, you may have to drill a couple of new holes to match.

Half of my Sterns had them. Half did not.

#7265 6 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

They should but Meteor didn't come with them originally. What I would do for Meteor is make new wood rails out of oak and call it good. With oak installed there is no flex or sag at all.

I have 3 meteors and all of them have the play field stiffeners. I feel like they were just randomly out on some runs of games

#7266 6 days ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

I have 3 meteors and all of them have the play field stiffeners. I feel like they were just randomly out on some runs of games

Yep, that's been my experience as well, when I get duplicates of games some of them have it, some of them don't.

#7267 6 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Since you are probably going to be painting the door with hammertone paint, minor surface imperfections will not bother you.

This is great stuff!

Thanks cottonm4 and others for the helpful answers to my questions.

I do get sandblasting once in a while so will check it out

The coin slot bezel is also really bad but doubt theres much I can do except paint the stainless that is pitted. Here is what Im working with

Thanks,

Kenny

IMG_7129 (resized).jpg
#7268 6 days ago
Quoted from grantopia:

do I need this extra connector that runs from J5 on the lamp board?

J5 goes to the switched illumination bus on the light panel. Some lights wil work with LEDs and some wont so hook it up to have 100% lights working.

#7270 6 days ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

I have 3 meteors and all of them have the play field stiffeners. I feel like they were just randomly out on some runs of games

That sounds like something Stern would do. I have owned 4 classic Sterns and only my Seawitch had them installed.

#7271 6 days ago
Quoted from KJL:

J5 goes to the switched illumination bus on the light panel. Some lights wil work with LEDs and some wont so hook it up to have 100% lights working.

Thanks! Mr. Weebly set me straight lol. I had no idea what "switched illumination bus" meant ha so he got me sorted!

#7272 6 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

That sounds like something Stern would do. I have owned 4 classic Sterns and only my Seawitch had them installed.

Right! My seawitch doesn’t have them. And neither did my dracula. I believe my stars does. I’ll have to double check

#7273 6 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

That sounds like something Stern would do. I have owned 4 classic Sterns and only my Seawitch had them installed.

My Seawitch does not have them. My Hot Hand did.

My Seawitch has a real wood cabinet floor, though. Real plywood for from the factory.

#7274 6 days ago
Quoted from KJL:

This is great stuff!
Thanks cottonm4 and others for the helpful answers to my questions.
I do get sandblasting once in a while so will check it out
The coin slot bezel is also really bad but doubt theres much I can do except paint the stainless that is pitted. Here is what Im working with
Thanks,
Kenny[quoted image]

You could take the bezel to a chrome shop have it sand blasted and rechromed. I’m sure you could mail it to Hot Rod Arcade.

#7275 6 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

My Seawitch does not have them. My Hot Hand did.
My Seawitch has a real wood cabinet floor, though. Real plywood for from the factory.

My seawitch is a brick bottom. Seems there is no consistency with anything!

#7276 6 days ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

My seawitch is a brick bottom. Seems there is no consistency with anything!

What ever salesman dropped by with the cheapest material for the day.

#7277 6 days ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

My seawitch is a brick bottom.

What's a brick bottom?

#7278 6 days ago
79B401FF-04CE-44B6-A46C-2FF480981330 (resized).jpeg
#7280 6 days ago

Holy shit, that is amazing.

Now I want to use that on any repro pin cabinet I make!!

#7282 6 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Holy shit, that is amazing.
Now I want to use that on any repro pin cabinet I make!!

There are also some Quicksilvers out there with brick bottoms, I seem to recall reading about here. Makes sense. The production schedule was Seawitch, followed by Cheetah that was wide body, followed by Quicksilver. But this is first time I recall reading about Seawitches with brick bottoms.

brick bottom? That almost sounds vulgar.

#7283 6 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Hello all - Star Gazer is coming along nicely but things are going slower now thanks to my real job. Anyway, I have a slingshot question. I went with the parts that Cotton4 called out in this post (as most do).
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/70#post-5760223
I was going to reuse the plunger and links from Meteor but they have some miles on them and they don't match. One is 2 1/8" and the other is 1 15/16". As a result, I am buying new. What link and plunger would everyone recommend for this setup?
[quoted image]

Left link is a Bally part.

#7284 5 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

brick bottom? That almost sounds vulgar.

Wasn’t that a Spinal Tap song?

#7285 5 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

brick bottom? That almost sounds vulgar.

She’s a brick house

#7286 5 days ago

Question on seawitch: I’m trying to set the coin credits to .50 a credit. I can’t get it. I’ve gone through the manual and matched up what they should be but I can either get one credit per quarter or 2 credits per quarter. I can’t get 2 quarters per credit though

#7287 5 days ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Question on seawitch: I’m trying to set the coin credits to .50 a credit. I can’t get it. I’ve gone through the manual and matched up what they should be but I can either get one credit per quarter or 2 credits per quarter. I can’t get 2 quarters per credit though

Highlighted bit below is what you're trying to use, correct?

If that's not working, you might check your board to see if moving the DIP switch actually changes anything, as those can go bad. You should also check that your coin door wiring matches the schematic, although if you have all chutes set the same, that won't make a difference here.

Screenshot 2022-09-19 193026 (resized).png
#7288 2 days ago

It didn’t work. It might be the dip switches. I dunno. This happened yesterday so seawitch has to be pulled from location anyways

5BF65036-5DB1-43DE-B59D-FB1AC1CC7B57 (resized).jpeg
#7289 2 days ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

It didn’t work. It might be the dip switches. I dunno. This happened yesterday so seawitch has to be pulled from location anyways [quoted image]

just a fuse?

#7290 1 day ago

Fixing an outhole shooter ball guide.

These can be repaired.

IMG_1458 (resized).jpg

All you need is a couple of old bulb sockets to scavenge for repair metal.

IMG_1461 (resized).jpg

I sweat soldered these on. I would prefer to use some JB Weld but I am out of JB. So these were sweated on. It is an ugly sweat job but they are on.

IMG_1462 (resized).jpg

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
From: $ 1.49
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
$ 109.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Maine Home Recreation
There are 7,290 posts in this topic. You are on page 146 of 146.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, become a Pinside+ member!