Put the board back in Stars and confirmed the drop resets are not working, no chimes either but pop, slings and flippers work fine

With the limited info, it looks like there's a breakdown in the signal on the solenoid driver board from pin 4 of connector J4 to leg 21 of the 74L154 chip. That signal is used when selecting chimes and the drop target reset solenoids.
It could be corrosion on that pin causing poor connectivity, a cracked solder joint on the back of the board where that pin is, damage to that trace signal running to the 74L154 or the 74L154 chip itself. If you have a multi-meter or logic probe we can further diagnose it but it's better done in the tech subforum if you want to follow up.

Hey all - Quick question on this Split Second I'm working on. So the good news is - It was up and working when I got it so now I'm just cleaning it up and working out the kinks. One thing I'm trying to confirm - when I have 2 balls locked up top, and I hit one of the 5 target bank the speech board starts saying 'Hurry, Hurry, Hurry' over and over again. I just wanted to know if that's correct, cause then getting additional (all 5? I swear I had a ball kick with only 4 down...) unlocks one for 2 ball multi ball so it makes sense - but the way it says it over and over makes it sound like a glitch. (then again, it's early 80s speech, so). The only one I'd played before was at Papa, and I don't think it has a working speech board - so I was hoping to make sure that sound was correct.

MB rules for this game are nuts, BTW... either hit the loop for top speed to light inlanes to release balls, complete the 5 bank 4 times to light the lights, make the top targets fast releases one ball, etc... and I may be missing a scenario there. Also - I didn't see anything in the manual - any scoring bonus to having 2-3 balls in play?

Picture included for the hell of it - someone asked to see progress, but it went from just in to up and running, so here it is. Next up is a full tear down/clean and wax, re-rubber, and touch up along the bottom of the glass. There's more paint loss on the playfield than I'd like to see, but I should at least be able to protect it and keep it in mind for a touch up/clear somewhere down the line.

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I cant say for sure but I have listened to a lot of slam tilt podcasts (they are big classic stern fans) and they make fun of this specific call out all the time and they both just repeat hurry hurry hurry so im guessing that is what they are making fun of!!!

Hi all, for the past month I have been testing my own protectors for Classic Stern playfields. I've been using them at my location and have yet to hear any complaints in regards to ball hangups or strange behavior. I have also been asking the regulars for active feedback and has been all positive so far, no one even knew I had them installed for the first week.
For those unfamiliar with the concept this is a single piece of PETG plastic that covers the entire playfield surface. The plastic is crystal clear and very thin only being .02" thick. The main benefit to a protector is that is essentially a poor mans version of clear coating a playfield. The protector will help stop a playfield that is starting to see wear. You can apply decals or touch up paint underneath and the protector keeps them fresh and intact. They also help level cupped or sunken inserts and returns these classic Sterns back to the screaming fast game that they were when factory fresh. This is also a fully reversible mod that can keep a playfield intact until you are ready to do a full and proper restore on it. The added bonus is that you also get a nice glossy playfield plane as the pictures will show. I want to be clear that this is not an original idea but as no one has made these available for Classic Stern games I figure that now is the time.

I have my version available which I call Pinball Playshields and are available for Meteor, Big Game and SeaWitch at https://beehivepinball.bigcartel.com/ for $75. Use discount code pinside10 for $10 off now thru Xmas. Playshields for Stars, Star Gazer and QuickSilver should be ready by the end of next week. After that I should have more titles coming including Flight 2000, Galaxy and Dracula. I'll also be recreating ball guides and wire forms for each of the games listed and will be rolling them out soon for anyone doing a restoration - Thanks

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I made my own poor mans protector for my F2K. Glad to know I can upgrade it to a quality one in the future!

They look nice. Nice price, too.

I have made 5 protectors for my pins. I am a big believer in them.

How are you addressing the star rollover inserts? There are 5 rollovers on Big Game. How is the play action at the rollover inserts?

Great news on the Seawitch protector. Have one on my Old Chicago & it is great.
Only issue is on slow balls sometimes hang up on the top rollover.

This is a great question as the star rollovers are a major problem when it comes to the protectors. On my Fathom I constantly have bad hangups because of the rollovers and the inline targets and have I kept this in mind while creating these. For my design when it comes to the rollovers the Playshield is not an exact mirror of the playfield itself. For the star rollovers the bottom is set a bit proud over the bottom edge of the insert and leaves a small gap at the top. The idea being that the curve of the star button will help level the field of play and not allow a low point where the ball can get stuck while at the same time allowing a little bit of extra momentum when the ball drops off the Playshield from the top and onto the insert. Between the pitch of the playfield, gravity and momentum the ball should have nowhere to come to rest. My drawings are a bit crude but I think it gets the idea across. The protector is meant to "float" above the playfield surface and should have about 1/16" of play when positioning it. Again gravity will come into play as the Playshield will come to rest at the lowest point on the playfield once all the solenoids have rattled it into a final position. Creating an overlap is the key to keeping the ball moving. On Big Game 4 of the 5 rollovers are hugging the ball guides which helps as they are in places that only a fast moving ball can come into contact with. This is more a testament to Harry Williams fantastic design than it does with anything I have done to help solve the problem of the rollovers. Contact with the ball guides also helps steer momentum away from the rollovers lip and keeps the ball moving smoothly. The 5th rollover in the middle of the playfield was a concern as a slow moving floater could get stuck but I have yet to see it personally and no one has reported to me having it happen. My Big Game is on location and has seen a few hundred plays since I installed the protector about a month ago. I gave a copy to a friend that also has a Big Game and he has not reported any issues to me, I'll see if I can get him to chime in to the performance as he is also a longtime Pinsider.

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I was a bit worried on this game also. The playfield design once again is the key to the problem more than any solution I have come up with. On SeaWitch the star rollover hugs the top guide rail so even a slow moving ball shouldn't be allowed to get stuck on the lip of the Playshield as the ball is forced back towards the pop bumpers or toward either orbit. The diameter of the ball is larger than the insert so gravity, the balls momentum and the proximity of the ball guide should force the ball to keep moving off of the insert and prevent any hang ups. This is also true of QuickSilver as both rollovers are overlapped by the ball guides. Again these drawings are a bit crude but I think it conveys my point. I'll have some actual pics of what I'm saying in this and my previous post once the holiday is over.

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That is a clever approach. It looks interesting. I understand what you say about the Big Game ball guides; You get some slack with the ball guides; The only real challenge is the rollover in the middle of the play field; If your design does not interfere with the ball trajectory then i would say you are onto something.

I'd like to hear your friend's opinion.

On my Big Game and Seawitch, I removed and raised the inserts. This method has served me well. However, when I reinstalled the inserts I just tapped them in with a wood block and did not use any glue at all. On Seawitch, the lower insert (the one labeled as "skill shot" on The Beatles pin) sometimes sinks a little bit on me and causes ball hangups. If you have any problems, it will likely be with this insert.

Catacomb has an insert at the top of the arch just like Seawitch. On Catacomb, I got lazy. Because I would have had to remove the play field to get at that insert I just left it as it was and made a beveled cut around the edges to smooth out the motion of the ball. For the most part it works OK; It is not a super critical shot but the ball does get stuck occasionally. I think if I were to do a remake and use your method at the insert---I think my problem would go away.

I have not made a protector for Dragonfist, yet. It has one star rollover but the rollover sits inside of two ball guides with a ball lane that sits along the side of the play field. Ball travel trajectory is critical in this "difficult shot" area. I think in the next couple of weeks I am going to break from my regularly scheduled programming and cut a protector and use your style of cut at the rollover.

Without seeing this in action and not being able to play a pin with this protector I can't offer a qualified opinion, but what you have designed sure looks good.

You may have solved the star rollover insert-protector issue.

Any possibilities of a Cheetah playfield protector?

Almost

Hell yeah!
Sorry guys i just love being post 666
Moving on

I've been testing one of these on my Big Game for about a month and so far, so good. I certainly don't play as much as a routed game would get but I haven't had any play issues to report back to thrillhouse. It fit good and I only had to trim just a bit above the left drop target bank, but I also had to do the same thing with one of the protectors from Germany. Pretty normal with PF variance and all. Nice way to sweeten up an old game!

Selling a working SB-100 sound card in the marketplace:

SOLD!

Parts - For Sale

Working Stern SB-100 Archived

Used, good condition - “Selling a working Stern SB-100. This came out of a Nugent. Board has been refurbed with new caps, header pins and socketed chips at U1, U6, U8, U9 and U14. Does not come with the s...”

2018-11-27

Lodi, CA

Cheddar

125 (OBO)

Archived after: 1 day

Viewed: 43 times

Status: Sold (amount undisclosed)

Thanks @leeb18509, I have actually corrected the vector file as I had to trim the same area a bit on mine. The cooling unit on my laser cutter crapped out over the weekend so its down for the week while I wait for a replacement. I still have Big Game and Meteor protectors cut but SeaWitch, Quicksilver, Star Gazer and Stars will be another week before they are ready.

I don't have access to a Cheetah unfortunately and its most likely going to be many a year before I find one local. If anyone wants to send me a vector file or a homemade template I can scan for a game I don't have I can cut a protector for you no problem.

Hey all, I'm in search of a scan of a cheetah backglass if anyone can help me out or scan theirs. Mine is hot garbage.

I got some CPR inlane plastics for my Flight 2000, but they're too soft to do their job. I just playtested it and there's already some chipping on the edges and the plastic seems really soft. I'm thinking of installing some metal wire inlane guides that run right next to the plastic ones. They'd effectively be similar to the seawitch wire inlanes, with the F2K plastics just behind. That way the metal takes the hit.

Any thoughts or better options?

Better idea. Get some .030" polycarbonate and cut a pair to fit your plastics profiles and place them under your plastics.

Poly makes great ball guides

Stern also put a service bulliton out that shows adding a 3" long ball guide similar to what you are talking

Nice! Thanks for the poly tip. Seems like a good half measure before installing a rail. Do you know where I can find the bulletin?

I have the bulletin at home. It was part of a package of Stern pubs I bought. I'll look for it when i get home.

If you decide to make some poly guides they will not be a half-measure. Once you put these on you will be made whole and can play your heart out.

Just thought I would show my Galaxy. I wanted to make it look more modern. Black posts, black rubber, blue and purple lane guides, led’s, purple lights in upper area of playfield. New glass, swapped for nicer playfield, and new plastics. Painted inside of the cabinet and some new boards.

I just need to paint and decal the apron and it is done for now.

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I cannot find that Flight 2000 service bulletin anywhere. But it was addressing the broken flipper/inlane plastics. The solution was/is to take a couple of short 1 1/2" or 2" metal ball guides and locate them (drill holes) under the plastic ball guides in such a way that the inlane side of the metal ball guide is under the plastic ball guide so there is no interference with the ball as it heads towards the flipper; And then the flipper side of the metal ball guide now protrudes from under the plastic ball guide and the ball energy is now picked up by the metal ball guide instead of the plastic ball guide.

Mt F2K has these guides on, but my F2K is also folded up and shoveled into a closet. If someone really needs to see what is all about I can get pics, but i'd rather not

Thanks for taking a look. No need to pull it out. I’m going with the lexan idea. I’ll just cut two new inland guides a little larger and mount them under the CPR plastics. I’m going to hit the backsides with some krylon triple-thick first for some resiliency.

I am looking for a Freefall playfield if you have one I can buy please PM me.

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Can anyone please tell me what volume potentiometer I could use to replace the one on my Stern Lightning? I cant find the parts number on the manual.

Thank You

My papers show a 25k pot being used, at least that's what my info says for my SB-100 setup. Not sure what sound card yours uses so the info i posted might not help.

This will probably get you where you need to go: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/P160KNP-0EC15A25K/987-1721-ND

Found your schematics. Not much help are they with the note lol "External volume pot not located on PC board"

i just found this

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-sb-300-volume-control-lightning

Thanks so much guys.

Has anyone had contact with BGresto, My Magic backglass looks like ass and I could really use a decent one.

Go into buying a BG knowing that information and contact will be minimal at best. I have now bought two from from BGresto without issue.

Order placed!! Thanks for producing these protectors! What is the typical order-to-delivery time?

He travels during the week for his day job, so he’ll be slow to respond. In other forums occasionally someone was unhappy with his work. In these situations he always redid the work. Don’t worry, he’ll be in touch with you soon

Maybe he is on Vacation or something although it's been a couple of weeks now. . Definitely prefer a new one if possible.

Thanks Eric. I'll have it in the mail Monday morning, usually 2-3 days delivery time via USPS priority mail. For anyone else interested I have Stars, Quicksilver and Star Gazer now available along with Big Game, Seawitch and Meteor at Beehivepinball.bigcartel.com

He has been out of the country with his day job.

You know whats better than lectronimo?

Several lectroniomo's.

nice to have a second one for reference when restoring. Sometimes pictures are worth 999 words but its the one missing word that you really need.

I approve this post !

I have two complete games. 4 backglasses total and a spare full populated playfield and another apron on top of that.

Looking good Jim! You know you want a Tiger Rag!!!

P.S. Good recent interview on Slam Tilt (I think it was slam tilt, I listen to so many podcasts and interviews I lose track)

Good luck collecting all classic Sterns!