Hey everyone,

Getting started on a Quicksilver scratch build (largely inspired by @hoakypoaky's excellent thread, thank you!), and while I'm waiting on a few things to really start building, I'm trying to figure out a few small part questions; hoping the group can assist me.

I'm truly building from scratch, in that I'm not modifying a donor-game. So, a question re: the light-panel: what kind of hardware / hinge is used to attach it to the backbox?

Also, has anyone figured out a good replacement/modification for a coin door—as in, one that can be sourced easier than lucking out and finding a used on on ebay or elsewhere? I'm building it in a new EZPinball cabinet, so the panel is cut specifically for the classic Stern sized door. I understand I could use a Chicago Coin door (also impossible to find, I'm discovering...), or a Stern Electronics arcade door. While I see a lot of the arcade doors on ebay, I understand that I'd need to modify the wiring to make one of the coin-rejects into the "start" button, or, cut a hole to add it. I'd just love to hear how others have gone about addressing the "no donor door" problem.

Thanks!

Looking for EZ Pinball cabinet builds for Pintastic Show. I will have a booth for promotion, but my skid of 5 group will wait until the end of the year. I will be doing a road trip in a small car.

Thanks for the advice! I'm personally not a purist about this, in any way; I'd kind of just like the original door so I don't have to figure out any modifications, ha!

Same!

Same again! I’m building a cabinet to start myself off. We should put our heads together - there’s definitely a lot to figure out when you’re not starting from a donor game.

The doors are out there and pop up from time to time. The harder part is the door trim, which often isn't included in those door sales. I'm sure a metal shop could copy them with enough money thrown at them. Or maybe just 3D print and paint them? Never tried that so I don't know how well that'd work and I'm assuming it won't go on location somewhere.

The SEI video game doors don't have the start button hole on the door but you could put a start button on the cabinet (like some Chicago Coin games had, before the button was moved to the coin door). Alternatively, the internal frame of the door is still the same, so you have an easy to place pilot hole to cut your own. Then you just need to figure out smoothing out the edges of that hole so it's not a jagged edge. The metal is pressed in on the pin doors.

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guy i bought my dolly project from has a stern coin door on louisville craigslist.
i know not local but thought id throw it out there.

louisville.craigslist.org link

You should be able to pick up a continuous hinge at Lowe's (or equivalent). Standard sizes seem to be 30" and 12". You can cut the 30" down to size or get two 12"s.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-1-1-2-in-X-30-in-Nickel-Surface-Piano-Cabinet-Hinge/1000486031
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-Nickel-Piano-Cabinet-Hinge/1000486043

cottonm4 Can you ask Kerry at Mantis if he’s interested in making classic Stern door trim and coin return flaps. Also coin door skins for the second generation mpu200 style. Marcos used to carry classic Stern coindoor skins but they r been out of stock for a few years. I think the coin door skin would sell well because people have doors that were pried open.

I need to email him about the sling shot levers. I can ask. What I can tell you that to make the coin door flaps is that they would be blank. It would need a machined die with COIN milled into the surface for COIN to happen.

Same thing for the coin door for the recessed area where the coin door decal lives. It would take a machined die and a hammer press to press that recessed area.

But I will send him an email.

I don't think a piano hinge will work all that good long term. The factory hinge has a 90 degree bend so you attach the hinge to the back or the face of the lamp board.

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With a piano hinge you will be attaching the hinge to the end of the lamp board. The upper screw holes will be taking all of the weight of the lamp board and could be at risk of pulling out long term. The factory only uses 4 screws. To use a piano hinge and attach the screws to the end of the board, I think I would want a screw every two inches for weight support. If 2 inches is too many screws then no less than a screw every 3 inches.

That door is on its way to me right now—thanks for connecting me with him, he's a super-nice dude!

Hey everyone, another probably super-silly question, but I just don't know where to find some parts, because I don't know what they're called, ha.

The sheet of metal on the back of the inside of a backbox, and the brackets on them to hold up electronics parts—is there a technical term for these parts that I should be searching for? Are these things I could find from Marco or another supplier?

I suppose I could always just get a thin sheet of metal, bend it to size, screw it in, find random metal brackets that are properly sized...etc. etc. As noted in previous posts, though, while I'm not obsessed with purity of original parts, I am interested in saving unnecessary tool-buying/problem-solving, if I can find the correct parts readily made.

This is for a QS scratch build in a new cabinet.

EDIT: are these what I want for the MPU, sol driver, and light board driver?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/P-6442-185
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/P-6442-186

I understand your concern here, and I'm probably missing something, but with a piano hinge, couldn't I just attach it to the face or back of the lamp board anyway, without the 90 degree bend? I don't have one on hand to compare and try it with, but it seems a piano hinge has almost 360 of swivel, right?

Yep that's the way to go.

Amazing info, thank you! Where is that graphic from? Very helpful!

That's from a Bally Parts Catalog. Lots of parts listed are similar and/or suitable for early Sterns. That PDF, and a lot of other useful tidbits, can be found on the Bally/Stern Pinwiki: https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

Thanks much for this!!!

If and when this happens, please do update the thread? I'd gladly pay someone who can make the door trim and flaps, with or w/o COIN on the surface of the flap!

Anyone have a meteor CPR playfield they’d sell?

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Just picked up an Ali, and loving it. But I could use a better backglass if anyone's got one, or knows anyone who makes them. Thanks!

BG Resto.

$300.00 and about 4 months lead-time.

http://bgresto.com/pics/stnc_ali2.jpg

Mayfair Amusements might have a nos copy in stock. Try emailing him.

It has been a while since I’ve had an update.
I picked up the first batch of StarGazer playfields today and they are perfect. Now that each production step has been tested, I can put another batch through.
This has been a considerable challenge because some suppliers/contractors shut down and some said they didn’t want to do it anymore (not profitable). This batch cost me significantly more money than previous batches, but I didn’t have to deal with any rejects.
I will be contacting people who previously asked for these and offering them first chance. Next batch will be prepped for printing this week.

Fantastic

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Please please please squeeze me on that list !

Looks wonderful!

That flashing is coated aluminum. Does not conduct electricity well on the surface.
Run ground braid to the pcb brackets if u use this.

Looks really good Greg!

The screws piercing the aluminum holding the brackets in place work just fine.

I've done x5 backboxes like this....no issues for me. Conducts just fine with my DMM / bench supply tests.

Hopefully my interest was registered prior, but if not, put me down for one. Looks great.

Simple test, with Depot roof flashing shows flaky at best.

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YMMV. When installing the mounting brackets in the backbox, I put a washer between the bracket and the shielding.

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Now go to a second screw also in the aluminum, you are deliberately setting up a false result.

Zero resistance.

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Why would I do that?
I'm simply showing its not a trustworthy connection. Sure, I can screw 10 screws in there, and 7 or 8 may be good, but 2 or 3 are not. Maybe it saves someone some wasted time troubleshooting.
I wont bother again

We used to be a happy family!

If it pierces the metal, the connection is good.

You are not taping braid or a bracket to the aluminum thus your test isn't valid.

I'm guessing that the aluminum sheeting has been thru the anodize process. Anodize is a protective layer applied in an wet dip, like chrome (except chrome conducts electricity. Anodize does not) . Half of the parts Boeing uses in its aircraft are anodized and as a means of corrosion control .

We used to test all of the parts that came out of our anodize tank with a DMM to make sure the we had a good coat of anodize.

Anodize can scratch easily. Just take some Scotch Brite or some 400 grit sandpaper and scuff the mounting surface to remove anodize and you will have no problem.
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The trouble is that aluminum oxidizes in the air almost immediately. Aluminum Oxide has high resistance and is basically an insulator. Aluminum is an ok conductor if treated with something like penetrox but should otherwise be avoided.

The primary purpose of the metal shield is to reduce radio interference coming out of the head. It was not intended as a ground source in the back box.
Why did they go to the expense of adding the metal shield (also to the top and sides) when they could have simply run braid wire to all the board mounts if grounding the boards was the intention..
The shield is grounded so it doesn't become an electrical hazard to operators/owners if a live wire accidentally touches it just like any other piece of electrical equipment with metal.

Looking for 2 things for a cheetah rebuild.
5 drop target bank memory. Plus a wide body lockdown bar. Pm if you have any leads!!

Me too!
Agreed, very promising looking. I already have the plastics from Marco and can take a pic of them with the pf when it shows up.
I guess I wasn't aware that there were other options for plastics out there. Sure hope these look good.
They do seem darker, but should know soon enough.
Only the 1 Keychain has the protective film removed in the pic.

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These are probably CPR plastics as Marcos is a CPR reseller. Check to see if PPS or Starship Fantasy stock them. I think CPR is the only option.

I have new set of Star Gazer plastics. Protective film has been pulled back but it has been put back in place. Color is a dark blue (see scan sample). Solid print colors so they are likely silk screened. Didn't come with key fobs like the newer Marco offering. Screenshot 2022-05-16 165117 (resized).jpg

$140 shipped in US. Should save you $30+ over retail if you want a new set.

You can order one from coos pinball in Europe. He can sell you the film, you scrape off the art on your backglass and attach his film. His process is similar to Bgresto but turnaround is 2-3 weeks not months.
https://www.coos.net/bingo_e/Backglasses.html

OK, boys and girls, I traded emails with Kerry at Mantis; inquiring about the Stern slingshots, coin door flaps, coin door skins, and the 3 beauty angles that surround the coin door.

He said he made coin door skins at one time and they did not sell.

Basically, we are dealing with the law of small numbers with these parts. Unless he gets back to me with some surprise action, I don't see any of these items happening.

Thanks for the update, that's a shame they are not going to happen. I think at least the slingshots would sell ok as most games have excessive wear on these parts & some slingshot arms break too with the crap metal.