(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

1 year ago



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  • Latest reply 46 minutes ago by cottonm4
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There are 2420 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 49.
#601 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

I may have a few with different colored Stars.

pm sent

#602 1 year ago
Quoted from klr650:

If you were making an apron for Quicksilver, which of these two machines is generally regarded as the correct color scheme?

I don’t know which is “correct”. People on the Quicksilver owners thread report both black and green base colors.
I like the Black better.

#603 1 year ago
Quoted from brenna98:

I don’t know which is “correct”. People on the Quicksilver owners thread report both black and green base colors.
I like the Black better.

If you make quicksilver aprons I'll take one.

#604 1 year ago

Like many other Quicksilvers, mine was manufactured with the much-coveted orange and black Meteor apron. I took a chance and repainted mine. I wanted to use enamels so I had to go with some very generic colors. So I just went with "John Deere green" and "lime green."
IMG_20171012_180556244 (resized).jpgIMG_20171014_185610389_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20171017_203032602 (resized).jpgIMG_20171204_211849249 (resized).jpgIMG_20181102_100933655 (resized).jpg

#605 1 year ago

A+ on that apron job.
Looks fantastic and even better installed!
Nice cards as well.

#606 1 year ago

Actually those cards were made by brenna98 about a year or so ago. They are fantastic.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quicksilver-club-all-welcome/page/8#post-3820541

#607 1 year ago
Quoted from klr650:

Like many other Quicksilvers, mine was manufactured with the much-coveted orange and black Meteor apron. I took a chance and repainted mine. I wanted to use enamels so I had to go with some very generic colors. So I just went with "John Deere green" and "lime green."
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

It does look nice. How did you re-do your "lime green" rams horn and logo?

#608 1 year ago

I used frisket for the curves (so not too pretty up close). I had to get rub on transfers made for the text. It's good enough for now but I know I will also be on board if brenna98 makes a Quicksilver apron.

#609 1 year ago

So...
a non-working, relatively clean Quicksilver was just sold here in Mn for...
-hold onto your hats- $5k
At least that was the asking price and a PM was sent within a few hrs. Soon after the machine was listed as sold and the marketplace ad taken down.
So...
I suppose all those other owners of Quicksilver are all licking their chops and dreaming about the pile of cash this payday of a machine might garner.
Thoughts?

#610 1 year ago
Quoted from rollitover:

So...
a non-working, relatively clean Quicksilver was just sold here in Mn for...
-hold onto your hats- $5k
At least that was the asking price and a PM was sent within a few hrs. Soon after the machine was listed as sold and the marketplace ad taken down.
So...
I suppose all those other owners of Quicksilver are all licking their chops and dreaming about the pile of cash this payday of a machine might garner.
Thoughts?

Yeah I was surprised by that. When I find a cheetah I hope the owner doesn’t want that much. Haha.

Anyone got a cheetah? Haha

#611 1 year ago

Guess I got a great deal when I paid 1800 Canadian for my project quicksilver a few weeks ago.

#612 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yeah I was surprised by that. When I find a cheetah I hope the owner doesn’t want that much. Haha.
Anyone got a cheetah? Haha

I'll keep my eyes and ears open for 'ya cw.

Quoted from Mitch:

Guess I got a great deal when I paid 1800 Canadian for my project quicksilver a few weeks ago.

You, my friend, are sittin' on a goldmine!

#613 1 year ago

This was just posted on Facebook
Digging the custom playfield additions.

FB_IMG_1542066001867 (resized).jpg
#614 1 year ago

I really need to get a Facebook account...I was hoping it was just a fad (like photographing food).

#615 1 year ago
Quoted from klr650:

I really need to get a Facebook account...I was hoping it was just a fad (like photographing food).

I gave it the boot a few years ago. Then got back on like a year ago. I use it for pinball stuff only. You can delete everything else so all you see is pinball stuff. If I couldn’t do that, I’d still be off it.

#616 1 year ago
Quoted from rollitover:

So...
a non-working, relatively clean Quicksilver was just sold here in Mn for...
-hold onto your hats- $5k
At least that was the asking price and a PM was sent within a few hrs. Soon after the machine was listed as sold and the marketplace ad taken down.
So...
I suppose all those other owners of Quicksilver are all licking their chops and dreaming about the pile of cash this payday of a machine might garner.
Thoughts?

I wonder at what point we start seeing pinball machines enter the Pebble Beach of pinballs. Or going across the block at Barrett-Jackson. Never to be played again. Just traded around by a bunch of old men for ever increasing dollars.

#617 1 year ago

I think we've been there for awHile... Sans the huge dollars

#618 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I wonder at what point we start seeing pinball machines enter the Pebble Beach of pinballs. Or going across the block at Barrett-Jackson. Never to be played again. Just traded around by a bunch of old men for ever increasing dollars.

Sounds like
some kind of apocalyptic pinball sci-fi...

#619 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I wonder at what point we start seeing pinball machines <snip> going across the block at Barrett-Jackson. <snip> Just traded around by a bunch of old men for ever increasing dollars.

They better hurry.

#620 12 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

This was just posted on Facebook
Digging the custom playfield additions.
[quoted image]

That custom Seawitch play field was shown in the Seawitch thread 5 years ago. See post #13.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-seawitch-fans-on-pinside

#621 12 months ago

Cheetah owners: Maybe you are aware if this replacement part, or maybe not.

This board is for getting rid of that pesky grid board Stern produced. I have this pinsider's boards in my Big Game and Nine Ball. I wish he would make one for Catacomb. It is worth the money and time to install.

Screen Shot 2018-11-17 at 10.24.33 AM (resized).png

https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-cheetah-replacement-lamp-boards-take-555-sockets

https://pinballreplacementparts.com/collections/all?page=3

#622 11 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Does anyone have any nos stern drop targets or and used ones (any condition) they would sell. Dont care what game they are from.
Send me a pm.

Still looking.

#623 11 months ago

I have an issues with my seawitch that is so random I cannot figure out how to fix it as i can never replicated it when I want to.

maybe 1 in 20 times the drop target bank on the left of right in the middle will drop 1 or very very rarely 2 targets down when it resets at the start of a ball or after the target bank is complete. They are original targets, how do I fix the issue?

Same targets can also occasionally brick as well if you hit them straight on.

#624 11 months ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

the drop target bank on the left of right in the middle

Dude... what?

Make sure the contact surfaces are clean. Lift the playfield and actuate the arm manually and see if you can figure out what's going on. It may be binding near the top of its travel or you may have an issue with a spring not pulling forward enough. Compare the target ledges and see if they're worn.

#625 11 months ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

I have an issues with my seawitch that is so random I cannot figure out how to fix it as i can never replicated it when I want to.
maybe 1 in 20 times the drop target bank on the left of right in the middle will drop 1 or very very rarely 2 targets down when it resets at the start of a ball or after the target bank is complete. They are original targets, how do I fix the issue?
Same targets can also occasionally brick as well if you hit them straight on.

You are going to have to remove your drop target assembly and clean the bar the targets rest on and clean the target rest, as well. Make sure the target rest is not worn. If it is worn you can fix it with a file.

I have this happen on my Seawitch at one of the lower three drops and another of my Sterns does this. It happens only occasionally and I don't worry about it.

Unless your pin is used in competition I say just play on.

#626 11 months ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

I have an issues with my seawitch that is so random I cannot figure out how to fix it as i can never replicated it when I want to.
maybe 1 in 20 times the drop target bank on the left of right in the middle will drop 1 or very very rarely 2 targets down when it resets at the start of a ball or after the target bank is complete. They are original targets, how do I fix the issue?
Same targets can also occasionally brick as well if you hit them straight on.

This was happening on my F2k and i found the issue to be the small post with a C clip on it fell off. It attaches the bottom of the target to the arm. The target would go up sometimes and get stuck because the arm would be stuck under the target instead of to the side(connected with the post and C clip)
I’ll take a pic of what I’m talking about later today.

#627 11 months ago

Before and after pics from Quicksilver shop.

1612B7EE-A766-4967-AE0E-A6AB204AA6CE (resized).jpeg39007FC1-C3C6-4405-BF7C-2EC9EA74E887 (resized).jpeg
#628 11 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Unless your pin is used in competition I say just play on.

It will be used in a tournament in about 3 weeks

Quoted from chubtoad13:

This was happening on my F2k and i found the issue to be the small post with a C clip on it fell off. It attaches the bottom of the target to the arm. The target would go up sometimes and get stuck because the arm would be stuck under the target instead of to the side(connected with the post and C clip)
I’ll take a pic of what I’m talking about later today.

I know what you are talking about, We call them Eclips here!
all of them are clipped on

#629 11 months ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

I know what you are talking about, We call them Eclips here!

There e clips here as well, as long asthey have the middle nub

#630 11 months ago

Any recommendations for fixing drop target brick shots?

#631 11 months ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Any recommendations for fixing drop target brick shots?

Loosen the springs.

#632 11 months ago

Just stretch them out a bit?

#633 11 months ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Just stretch them out a bit?

That or try a different spring that’s not as tight.

#634 11 months ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:Any recommendations for fixing drop target brick shots?

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Loosen the springs.

I put new drops on my Trident and they don't drop worth a shit! I tried tightening the springs tighter and tighter 3 times. So all this time I should have been trying to loosen them?

#635 11 months ago
Quoted from atariaction:

I put new drops on my Trident and they don't drop worth a shit! I tried tightening the springs tighter and tighter 3 times. So all this time I should have been trying to loosen them?

Yes! tightening them would make it so they are less likely to drop. The tension keeps them latched. You want the ball to hit them and knock them backwards so they slide off the ledge and drop down.

#636 11 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Yes! tightening them would make it so they are less likely to drop. The tension keeps them latched. You want the ball to hit them and knock them backwards so they slide off the ledge and drop down.

I was thinking with the tighter spring as soon as the drop Target was knocked off the ledge it would be more prone to getting pulled down.

#637 11 months ago

People like to add weight to drop as well...althoguh if they're already in you're too late for that

#638 11 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

People like to add weight to drop as well...althoguh if they're already in you're too late for that

Really? Interesting. How do they do that? Pennies on the back or something?

#639 11 months ago
Quoted from atariaction:

I was thinking with the tighter spring as soon as the drop Target was knocked off the ledge it would be more prone to getting pulled down.

You want the spring just tight enough to hold the target in the "up" position. The target will fall of its own weight. As Vid stated one time, if you apply some wax to the target "rest" bar and some wax to the edge of the target mounting point, "they will drop like stones".

If you have a drop target assembly that is all scuzzy and greasy you should remove it, disassemble it, clean it up and wax the moving parts. Once you have done that, just toy around with it for awhile and see how easy the targets drop when you give a slight push with your finger.

I read this tern "bricking" that gets talked about. I guess bricking is when the ball hits the target but the target does not drop. My thoughts on that are that maybe the drop target assembly is not located correctly in its slot on the play field. I'm learning that Stern's factory assembly was anything but precise. If a drop target assembly is located too far back in its slot then possibly the back of the drop target is contacting the play field wood before it has a chance to drop. I'm not sure, though. It is just a guess. But if my targets were not dropping properly per engineering design, proper location of the drop assembly is the first item I would be checking.

#640 11 months ago
Quoted from atariaction:

Really? Interesting. How do they do that? Pennies on the back or something?

Add a length of of solder along the length of the shank.

#641 11 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You want the spring just tight enough to hold the target in the "up" position. The target will fall of its own weight. As Vid stated one time, if you apply some wax to the target "rest" bar and some wax to the edge of the target mounting point, "they will drop like stones".
If you have a drop target assembly that is all scuzzy and greasy you should remove it, disassemble it, clean it up and wax the moving parts. Once you have done that, just toy around with it for awhile and see how easy the targets drop when you give a slight push with your finger.
I read this tern "bricking" that gets talked about. I guess bricking is when the ball hits the target but the target does not drop. My thoughts on that are that maybe the drop target assembly is not located correctly in its slot on the play field. I'm learning that Stern's factory assembly was anything but precise. If a drop target assembly is located too far back in its slot then possibly the back of the drop target is contacting the play field wood before it has a chance to drop. I'm not sure, though. It is just a guess. But if my targets were not dropping properly per engineering design, proper location of the drop assembly is the first item I would be checking.

This sounds like good advice! I will tinker with this. I did hear that the new drop target molds are a little different and some people refuse to use them.

Quoted from cottonm4:

Add a length of of solder along the length of the shank.

Hmmm I would think that the solder would get knocked loose after some time?

#642 11 months ago

Think I read they epoxy a little extra weight in the hollow spot in back

#643 11 months ago
Quoted from atariaction:

This sounds like good advice! I will tinker with this. I did hear that the new drop target molds are a little different and some people refuse to use them.

I think the replacement targets are 1/8" shorter in shank length. It means you need to add a shim on the "raise up" bar or they will not sit flush with the play field surface. However, this will have no effect on how the targets behave.

If worse comes to worst, one could always get some styrene model plastic. With a small piece of plastic and some super glue a worn landing surface on the drop target can always be repaired/rebuilt.

#644 11 months ago

Help needed! Looking for the pictured chip. This is from my Stars, game plays fully but some of the chimes coils are not firing. Was told to replace the chip, anyone know where I can order one?

117E5A82-3276-4EAF-9CB1-692F8971F0B6 (resized).jpeg
#647 11 months ago
Quoted from JoesCoinOp:

Help needed! Looking for the pictured chip. This is from my Stars, game plays fully but some of the chimes coils are not firing. Was told to replace the chip, anyone know where I can order one?

Was the 74L154 chip actually diagnosed as faulty? They rarely fail.

#648 11 months ago
Quoted from dasvis:

You will want to order a .6" 24-pin double wipe IC socket too...

Yep- definitely recommend adding a socket for any ICs you replace. I prefer tooled sockets over dual-wipe. I find them more reliable and for the low volume applications we use them for well worth the extra expense. Here's a link to a few different sockets from different suppliers:
Digikey(tooled): https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/assmann-wsw-components/AR-24-HZL-TT/AE10016-ND/821770
Jameco(tooled): https://www.jameco.com/z/6100-24-24-Pin-Machine-Tooled-Low-Profile-IC-Socket-0-6-Inch-Wide_39351.html
Great Plains Electronics(tooled): https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=IS-624-MP
Marco Specialties(dual wipe): https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/DIP24

#649 11 months ago

I don’t know anything about board work but I tried the board in a HG and the pops were dead but when hit the saucer kickers would fire. I brought the board to a local tech who tried it in EK and got more strange behavior. He told me to change that chip.
Thanks for the responses, I will order today and check back in with results

#650 11 months ago
Quoted from JoesCoinOp:

I don’t know anything about board work but I tried the board in a HG and the pops were dead but when hit the saucer kickers would fire.

If all pop bumpers didn't work on the Harlem Globetrotters then the drop target resets wouldn't be working in your Stars.
Your solenoid driver board has double sided tracks making it more difficult to remove that chip without the right equipment/skills.
I'd suggest you open a tech support thread in the "Tech: Early solid state" subforum where we can help you diagnose the actual fault.

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