(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

3 years ago


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#6051 46 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

The thickness of the metal E core is probably the same, hence the Y-axis is almost the same.

It's dependent on the type and number of flipper coils. Meteor and Ali had standard spec 25-500/34-4500 flipper coils. The upper coil on Meteor has a resistor in series to reduce current surge and power.
Galaxy had higher power flipper coils but only two of them.
Big Game had a mixture of standard and higher power flipper coils but there are four of them so potential for high current surge when all four flippers activate at the same time.
I just picked up a Seawitch this week and it's been fitted with four standard 25-500/34-4500 flipper coils. I've replaced the 7A slow blow fuse with a fast blow as a slow blow seems like overfusing to me.

I thought Seawitch was 475 & 600 on the coils?

#6052 46 days ago

These are great.

20211202_112756 (resized).jpg
#6053 46 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Everything on the smaller 16B-3 transformer is the same as the 16B-6 transformer.

All we need is a separate transformer to meet that 7 amp call out and then the smaller 16B-3s can be used with impunity. I would l have no problem adding a 2nd small transformer to the mounting board for coils power.

I wouldn't look at the fuses as the capacity at all - they're there if the load exceeds the design (in some cases the spec'd fuse DOESN'T blow, like on Laser Cue - the drop reset coils can lock on without blowing the fuse easily). The transformer would (should) always have some headroom in it vs. the load.

#6054 46 days ago

I forget who posted them (maybe emsrph?) but I grabbed some #6 2-1/4" screws to use with t-nuts threaded from the bottom. They're the perfect height and no cutting needed. Now the seller seems to not have them anymore. I should've bought more than 50 of them, I guess. It was only like $7.

You can also countersink the t-nut with a 1/2" forstner bit to reduce the pf thickness and allow for greater threading with an actual pinball post screw. That's what I did with my Star Gazer build. You still won't get a FULL thread on the nut but it'll get you 3-4 more and I haven't had any issues. When I didn't countersink the t-nuts on my Quicksilver, the posts didn't hold up well at all. I had to go back and replace them all with the 2-1/4" machine screws.

Screen Shot 2021-12-02 at 10.48.34 AM (resized).png
#6055 46 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Does anybody know a part number or alternative part for this?

My Dragonfist has a ball stop like that. The spring is flaky. I figure I will try to locate a small lightweight expansion spring and drill a small hole in the ball guide and employ it that way.

I mean, you can probably get lucky and find the size of torsion spring you need and then spend $10.00 to ship it in.

https://www.springsfast.com/products/torsion-springs/torsion-spring/?part=TML-0104-012

amazon.com link »

This one might work for you.

It is a lightweight torsion spring used in Data East Robocop. It is light weight. It is about the right size. You might be able to make this one work.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-5611-00

detail (resized).JPG

Or maybe you have a local hardware store that carries a selection of real small expansion springs.

#6056 46 days ago
Quoted from semicolin:

I'm an electrician and I cut 6-32 machine screws down to size with a $12 pair of wire strippers.

I have some of those wire strippers that also cut screws, too.

Try doing that when you are cutting 40 to 50 screws down to the same length.

#6057 46 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I have some of those wire strippers that also cut screws, too.
Try doing that when you are cutting 40 to 50 screws down to the same length.

Every single one on Seawitch was done that way. I buy a box of 50 3" machine screws and cut them to length. I ALWAYS have the right size when they can all be cut down.

#6058 46 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

I wouldn't look at the fuses as the capacity at all - they're there if the load exceeds the design (in some cases the spec'd fuse DOESN'T blow, like on Laser Cue - the drop reset coils can lock on without blowing the fuse easily). The transformer would (should) always have some headroom in it vs. the load.

OK. I get that. But what is it on the larger 16B-6 transformer that puts out more juice for the coils than the 16B-3 puts out?

#6059 46 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

OK. I get that. But what is it on the larger 16B-6 transformer that puts out more juice for the coils than the 16B-3 puts out?

That's what I would love to have quantified. I think it's mostly a case of the feels combined with the notorious variability of transformers... They're not exactly precision pieces of equipment.

#6060 46 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Every single one on Seawitch was done that way. I buy a box of 50 3" machine screws and cut them to length. I ALWAYS have the right size when they can all be cut down.

You have every tool of convenience and experimenting laying at your fingertips. I"m surprised that the zip-zip of a cutoff wheel does not jazz you

#6061 46 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You have every tool of convenience and experimenting laying at your fingertips. I"m surprised that the zip-zip of a cutoff wheel does not jazz you

Oh I wish!!

Been Jonesing for a metal lathe for years now but can't justify the expense vs use. I only purchased a vinyl cutter and 3d printer because projected expenditures for related product was greater than the price of the tools.

I make two sets of stencils for a cabinet the vinyl cutter is paid for already.

Already have a lot of tools on hand due to my work and other hobbies, they just happen to dovetail nicely with pinball restorations.

I one time I worked on cars for a living, raced cars, restored cars, developed turbocharger systems, programmed and dynoed engines, ran an RV repair shop, built aerial lift trucks, fixed John Deere tractors, built movie props, collected and repaired 3Dfx prototype graphics hardware and now I'm fooling about with pinball machines while director of environmental services in a medical facility.

And I can make a wicked New York style cheesecake.

#6062 46 days ago

Ok, next question…

EVERY insert on these machines has both moved and sunken. I’m no stranger to replacing inserts, and I’m not a fan of eye-dropper if clear coat to level them out. It’s just not a good option when you have a lot of this going on.

On the other hand, while I can find faceted inserts all over Pinball Life, nobody seems to have non-faceted inserts in all the sizes/colors needed for a Lightning. Does anyone know of a source for the stock style inserts?
I’m not a purist, so I would go with faceted if it came to that. Would sooner swap all the inserts to the same style than end up with a mix, honestly.

FF59E327-334E-4BA4-8807-2C1C41F527A5 (resized).png
#6063 46 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Ok, next question…
EVERY insert on these machines has both moved and sunken. I’m no stranger to replacing inserts, and I’m not a fan of eye-dropper if clear coat to level them out. It’s just not a good option when you have a lot of this going on.
On the other hand, while I can find faceted inserts all over Pinball Life, nobody seems to have non-faceted inserts in all the sizes/colors needed for a Lightning. Does anyone know of a source for the stock style inserts?
I’m not a purist, so I would go with faceted if it came to that. Would sooner swap all the inserts to the same style than end up with a mix, honestly.
[quoted image]

When I did Flash Gordon I had to source from Marco and Pinball life.

#6064 46 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I forget who posted them (maybe emsrph?) but I grabbed some #6 2-1/4" screws to use with t-nuts threaded from the bottom. They're the perfect height and no cutting needed. Now the seller seems to not have them anymore. I should've bought more than 50 of them, I guess. It was only like $7.
You can also countersink the t-nut with a 1/2" forstner bit to reduce the pf thickness and allow for greater threading with an actual pinball post screw. That's what I did with my Star Gazer build. You still won't get a FULL thread on the nut but it'll get you 3-4 more and I haven't had any issues. When I didn't countersink the t-nuts on my Quicksilver, the posts didn't hold up well at all. I had to go back and replace them all with the 2-1/4" machine screws.
[quoted image]

Yeah looks like the next best thing in stock now is #6 x 2.5". Tried the BoltDropper website and seems even direct they are out.

#6065 46 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

When I did Flash Gordon I had to source from Marco and Pinball life.

Looked there first. I can only get flat colors in the round inserts, but arrows the only flat ones available are the yellow, from what I've seen so far. I'm OK with using the more familiar "starburst" style if that's all that's available (they look nicer, even if they aren't "stock".) Just wanted to see if anyone had a source for the original style before I committed to that course...

#6066 46 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Looked there first. I can only get flat colors in the round inserts, but arrows the only flat ones available are the yellow, from what I've seen so far. I'm OK with using the more familiar "starburst" style if that's all that's available (they look nicer, even if they aren't "stock".) Just wanted to see if anyone had a source for the original style before I committed to that course...

Did you check Pinball Resource and Planetary Pinball?

#6067 46 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Ok, next question…
EVERY insert on these machines has both moved and sunken. I’m no stranger to replacing inserts, and I’m not a fan of eye-dropper if clear coat to level them out. It’s just not a good option when you have a lot of this going on.
On the other hand, while I can find faceted inserts all over Pinball Life, nobody seems to have non-faceted inserts in all the sizes/colors needed for a Lightning. Does anyone know of a source for the stock style inserts?
I’m not a purist, so I would go with faceted if it came to that. Would sooner swap all the inserts to the same style than end up with a mix, honestly.
[quoted image]

I know some person are not agree with that, but i alway sand my original insert! look at this!
i really dont think a remove enought material with sanding to weaken the insert

A4D04258-57E3-46F7-8954-A1182A7E9F3B (resized).jpeg13DBBFF0-C412-4510-9003-8D70EAF91F3C (resized).jpegAE2E06CF-A0C6-4D3A-BDE7-44C2D2304219 (resized).jpegA871E28C-89E8-4448-9C3F-8BEB6ABC8D3D.jpeg30107047-0DC8-4DA3-8E16-51CA78D5FA0D (resized).jpeg15670982-654B-4317-90E4-1A343161E7F9 (resized).jpeg[50E7DA04-4961-4EC9-9294-7F10FE7A7ECA (resized).jpeg

#6068 46 days ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

i really dont think a remove enought material with sanding to weaken the insert

I’ve done the same in the past. These inserts are *particularly* bad, and some of the arrows aren’t even just concave, they are warped in more than one plane. Just a total mess.

Quoted from bluespin:

Did you check Pinball Resource and Planetary Pinball?

Yes. I wrote to PBR and have not gotten a reply, unusual for them.
PPS baffles me. They don’t have the old style ones.

#6069 46 days ago

Here is something you might want to pay attention to.

At one time, I saw a play field glass with all of these small scratches just above the lockdown bar. I figured out what they were.

At this point in time I'm thinking many are understanding that Stern did not assemble these pins with precision.

I had to raise the location of my lockdown bar receiver for better fitment of the coin door. The result is that the play filed glass can start dragging across the little lip on the top of the receiver.

I am OK on the right hand side as you can see the file folder paper move freely. However, as I move the folder paper to the left it starts binding between the glass and the receiver lip. MY glass is not dragging but it is close. To fix this, I will take a file and remove some material from this lip. It will not take much filing to fix this.

If you have some small, straight scratches on your play field glass at the lock bar, you might want to try the file folder trick.

#6070 46 days ago

I did not know this material could be bought.

I will still make my own rails with oak strips from Home Depot.

But if you want the OG look, vinyl wrapped wood rails can be bought.

https://www.pinballlife.com/black-vinyl-wrapped-wood-rail-for-playfield-edges-1-18-x-12.html

#6071 46 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I did not know this material could be bought.
I will still make my own rails with oak strips from Home Depot.
But if you want the OG look, vinyl wrapped wood rails can be bought.
https://www.pinballlife.com/black-vinyl-wrapped-wood-rail-for-playfield-edges-1-18-x-12.html

I used just used this on my spring break restore. Worked great.

#6072 46 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I thought Seawitch was 475 & 600 on the coils?

Sorry, by "standard 25-500/34-4500 flipper coils", I meant common generic flipper coils. And power wise they're perfectly fine on this game.

Quoted from cottonm4:

OK. I get that. But what is it on the larger 16B-6 transformer that puts out more juice for the coils than the 16B-3 puts out?

It will be thicker gauge core wire on both the primary and solenoid windings.

#6073 46 days ago

interesting torroid in parallel 50volt with 10 amp the 43volt 7amp is rectified DC on the fuse panel, xformer outputs are sent to rectification bridge , if you can drop the 50 down to 43volts maybe and fuse it a 7 amps . would this be closer ?

2279593.pdf

#6074 44 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

A photo can be had easily enough. But how about we show you how to look at the blue prints and teach you how to wire it up without a pic?

I would love that, I have actually looked at the coin door blue-print and have found the wire colors referenced to the various parts. I'll post my impressions and you can tell me if I'm on the right track or totally out in left-field.

Thanks for your patience everyone..........see below.

-Nate

Coin_door_1 (resized).jpgCoin_door_2 (resized).jpgCoin_door_3 (resized).jpgCoin_door_4 (resized).jpgCoin_door_5 (resized).jpg
#6075 44 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

I would love that,

OK. Let's start out by fixing this picture so you can say "I know" rather than "I think".

This will probably wind up boring everybody so we may wind up trading PMs.

Your switch is correct. Now, lets back up a bit.
--------------------------------------------------------------

Step #1

In the drawing, L1 and L2 (circled in orange) represent the blue wire and brown wire coming off the line filter. I have the brown and blue Molexed. On the other side of the Molex is a black wire and a white wire, and over to the left is the green ground wire screwed onto the ground braid.

Scan 5 (resized).jpeg

IMG_8590 (resized).jpg

What is circled in green is the power cord coming from the wall.

The ground braid is underlined in blue.

The GRD hi lighted in green is the ground wire screwed to the ground braid.

The voltage varistor VR 1 is that red button looking thing you see on the line filter. Mine is buried so you can barely see it.

-----------------------------------------------------------------

The ground wire screwed to the ground braid is two wires.

The black wire coming off the Molex is two wires.

And the white wire coming off the molex is also two wires.

One each of those 3 wires come forward and supply power to the service outlet.

You can see the W and B wires hooked to the service outlet. And they are traveling over to your on/off switch.

IMG_8591 (resized).jpg

IMG_8589 (resized).jpg

------------------------------------

Let's go to your switch picture. There is one thing wrong with this picture. It says "Black and White wires are to service outlet". Well, yes and no. These two wires share the same power with the service outlet, but remember the wires that were paired coming from the line filter?

9e2cb47bd35f09980bca94322837069f54b99579 (resized).jpg

One of those black wires and white wires and green wires went to the service outlet. The other set of black, and white, and green wire travel across to your on/off switch.

Down low on the drawing, you see 3 wires hi lighted in blue. They are numbered.
The yellow wire on your switch is .....................A2-J2-6 (Y)
The Blu-White wire is.......................................A2-J2-7 (Blu-W)
And the green wire is.....................................A2-J2-10 (G).

Not counting the sound board, there are 4 boards on the Sterns. These boards have factory callouts.

The MPU is A-4; SDU is A3; Lamp driver is A5; and the Rectifier board is A2

So, your yellow and blu-w wires on the switch came from the rectifier board, connector J-2.

Scan 6 (resized).jpeg

There are 10 slots in this J2 connector.

Pins 6 and 7 go to your switch. Pin 10 is ground.

IMG_8594 (resized).JPG

Study on this. Once you get comfortable with it and understand it, we can go look at the other side of this cabinet wiring drawing.

I hope it helps you and not confuse you.

Send me a PM if you like.

#6076 42 days ago

cottonm4

Thanks so much for this, I will take time to study it and understand. I hope others can learn also as I am doing, please excuse me "hogging" the thread with this.

Give me a few days to go over my game and the schematic again - I really appreciate you taking the time to post this!!

-Nate

#6077 42 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

cottonm4
Thanks so much for this, I will take time to study it and understand. I hope others can learn also as I am doing, please excuse me "hogging" the thread with this.
Give me a few days to go over my game and the schematic again - I really appreciate you taking the time to post this!!
-Nate

Thank you. My pics are not the best; If you have problem with understanding something, just ask, or send a PM. If you want to talk it out and test your learning progress, I'll listen. I learned a lot myself just by writing it up---many times that is my motivation. I write about it so I can understand it better.

If others get annoyed with you/us "hogging" the thread we can go PM. But I prefer open discussion. Hoping always that someone will tell I am if I am wrong. I do not wish to lead anyone astray.

BTY: Did you get your pop bumper fixed?

#6078 42 days ago

cottonm4 & Pinball_Nate - FWIW, I appreciate and benefit from your open conversation.

#6079 42 days ago

I’ve seen worse hacks, but this is the one I’m dealing with today.

This rectifier board was in a game I picked up recently. It’s rare that aftermarket boards arrive on my bench hacked up, but this one is fun. It must have been an early revision from Rottendog as it has the incorrect part number screened on it… BPS054 is for late model Bally games, but this one is for early SS titles.

d43463331ea4e571d3363f4e3d4dd9b3e561d5ff (resized).jpg

It looks more or less fine from the front. It was probably a kit, as whoever assembled it decided to skip a bunch of parts and reuse others from an older board. What gets really screwy are the bridge rectifiers:

b127fd2ea6266fa21fd8f224d9be2c4e6a1af804 (resized).jpg

I almost didn’t believe what I was seeing until I took a look at the PCB: rottendog laid it out so that AC enters on the right side of the rectifier, and DC comes out the left side. If you’re unfamiliar with GBPC rectifier layouts, the AC inputs are at opposite corners, and the DC outputs are also at opposite corners. The PCB itself is laid out incorrectly!

It's got the offset through-hole for what would normally the DC positive pin on a GBPC, but it's connected to the DC ground plane.

And if you try to insert a rectifier from the rear into that form factor, it won't actually fit unless you bend legs.

From above, the GBPC form factor has this pinout:

.............( AC )
( + )..............
( AC )......( - )

But this rectifier board PCB traces are run like this:

.............( AC )
( - )..............
( + )......( AC )

Front mounted or back mounted, it still ain't right.

The way that they've made it work here is to rotate the rectifiers 90 degrees counter clockwise, and then crossover only the two legs now on top. It works, but it's a total bodge.

I’m not okay “just living” with a board that’s missing parts and requires bodging. This will be the first aftermarket board I’ve ever thrown out. I ordered a replacement from barakandl and I’ll just build it the right way myself.

#6080 41 days ago

Looks like the 100v metal oxide varistor and feature lamp load resistor are missing too.

#6081 41 days ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Looks like the 100v metal oxide varistor and feature lamp load resistor are missing too.

Working on your blank board today. Bunch of new & old parts. Probably done 30+ new boards of all early Bally & Stern ones over the years for soldered wires to pins. I still reuse the old varo bridges on games the last 25 years. All the new electronic parts providers have made this hobby better the last 15 years!

#6082 40 days ago

I hope I'm not beating a dead horse, but I fear I am. I need a blade style lockdown bar receiver for my Hot Hand.

Does the one from pinball life work? https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-front-molding-lockdown-bar-receiver-assembly.html

I searched for "lockdown" in this thread, and there wasn't a definitive answer I could see.

-Pat

#6083 40 days ago
Quoted from PinFixin:

I hope I'm not beating a dead horse, but I fear I am. I need a blade style lockdown bar receiver for my Hot Hand.
Does the one from pinball life work? https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-front-molding-lockdown-bar-receiver-assembly.html
I searched for "lockdown" in this thread, and there wasn't a definitive answer I could see.
-Pat

no, you are not beating a dead horse. I do not think the lockdown bar you linked will work.

This one will:

Mantis Pinball is reproducing the receiver you need. Also, if you know of a Data East pinball that is a parts pin, the receiver on DE is the same as Stern Electronics.

https://mantispinball.com/product/stern-receiver-old/

#6084 40 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

no, you are not beating a dead horse. I do not think the lockdown bar you linked will work.
This one will:
Mantis Pinball is reproducing the receiver you need. Also, if you know of a Data East pinball that is a parts pin, the receiver on DE is the same as Stern Electronics.
https://mantispinball.com/product/stern-receiver-old/

I was hoping for another solution then $125.

Data East Part number for their receiver is: 500-5020-01 (new) / 500-5020-00 (obsolete).

Planetary Pinball does have the 00's: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MC-500-5020-00
and $89 is better than $125.

I bought one used from someone in the marketplace, have since moved and for the life of me I cannot find it. However, if one of the DE lockdown bars works in the new stern receiver from pinball life, wouldn't the classic stern blade lockdown bar work in that receiver also? Does anyone have a newer stern game with that receiver, and a classic stern / data east game and try the lockdown bar in their newer stern?

-Pat

#6085 40 days ago

Actually, Pinball Life's site says this about the receiver:

Fits all Data East and Sega games with the exception of WWF, Guns -N- Roses, and Batman Forever.

So, we proved earlier that a classic stern blade lockdown bar fit into someone's Robocop and their Robocop bar fit into their classic stern. Therefore is it reasonable to surmise that if that receiver replaces the Robocop receiver, then a classic stern bar should fit into that receiver also?

-Pat

#6086 40 days ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Looks like the 100v metal oxide varistor and feature lamp load resistor are missing too.

Yep. I was planning to add them into this board, and once I got it on the bench I realized I hated it so much that I was just going to have to build a new one so that it wouldn’t look like garbage forever.

#6087 39 days ago
Quoted from PinFixin:

I hope I'm not beating a dead horse, but I fear I am. I need a blade style lockdown bar receiver for my Hot Hand.
Does the one from pinball life work? https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-front-molding-lockdown-bar-receiver-assembly.html
I searched for "lockdown" in this thread, and there wasn't a definitive answer I could see.
-Pat

Quoted from cottonm4:

no, you are not beating a dead horse. I do not think the lockdown bar you linked will work.
This one will:
Mantis Pinball is reproducing the receiver you need. Also, if you know of a Data East pinball that is a parts pin, the receiver on DE is the same as Stern Electronics.
https://mantispinball.com/product/stern-receiver-old/

Quoted from PinFixin:

I was hoping for another solution then $125.
Data East Part number for their receiver is: 500-5020-01 (new) / 500-5020-00 (obsolete).
Planetary Pinball does have the 00's: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MC-500-5020-00
and $89 is better than $125.
I bought one used from someone in the marketplace, have since moved and for the life of me I cannot find it. However, if one of the DE lockdown bars works in the new stern receiver from pinball life, wouldn't the classic stern blade lockdown bar work in that receiver also? Does anyone have a newer stern game with that receiver, and a classic stern / data east game and try the lockdown bar in their newer stern?
-Pat

I stand corrected. I don't know what I was reading last night but it looks like the Pinball Life unit will work.

#6088 39 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I stand corrected. I don't know what I was reading last night but it looks like the Pinball Life unit will work.

I'm going to order it with my next parts order, and will get a definitive answer, but yes, I think it will work also.

-Pat

#6089 38 days ago

I just got some new decals in from TractorDoc.

His Big Game spinner decals look good. Real good.

IMG_8613 (resized).JPG

#6090 38 days ago

going to be starting a cheetah pf swap soon. I have yet to play one so I'm just going to tear this one down and make it all newish,then play it. layout looks interesting.

#6091 36 days ago

I had this happen on my F2K and now it's happening on my SG... and I can't remember what the problem was on F2K!

Something is shorting out the right spinner switch. It's not registering spins (contacts are clean), but the switch will fire if I touch my finger to something grounded (side rail) and then touch any part of the spinner (bracket, arm, switch), it will start firing. Occasionally it will fire the left flipper rollover switch instead.

One day I'll know how these things work.

#6092 36 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I had this happen on my F2K and now it's happening on my SG... and I can't remember what the problem was on F2K!
Something is shorting out the right spinner switch. It's not registering spins (contacts are clean), but the switch will fire if I touch my finger to something grounded (side rail) and then touch any part of the spinner (bracket, arm, switch), it will start firing. Occasionally it will fire the left flipper rollover switch instead.
One day I'll know how these things work.

Lift your play field and get some pics posted of the spinner area. I had a similar problem and put up pics. . And someone saw my problem from the picture. It was me making a bad install on a part and I shorted it out.

#6093 36 days ago

Trying to get new target banks made. Anyone who has made their own please contact me. Looking to see if people have cad files & list of parts available. Looking to see if metal can be cut locally & assembled here. Hope to see new target banks in the $100 - $200 US each.

#6094 36 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Lift your play field and get some pics posted of the spinner area. I had a similar problem and put up pics. . And someone saw my problem from the picture. It was me making a bad install on a part and I shorted it out.

I will have to take some later this week. Logically I assume it’s some sort of short but I can’t see anything touching and the game worked fine for several weeks.

#6095 35 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

and the game worked fine for several weeks.

This is important info. to know.

#6096 35 days ago
Quoted from greatwichjohn:

Trying to get new target banks made. Anyone who has made their own please contact me. Looking to see if people have cad files & list of parts available. Looking to see if metal can be cut locally & assembled here. Hope to see new target banks in the $100 - $200 US each.

I have the parts list / BOM for a three bank typed up in Excel. When I get in front of that computer this evening, I can upload to a Google drive. There's only a few differences between that and the 4 bank, so it should be a good starting point.

I don't have a bank available to measure/draw into cad, but will slowly chip away when I get my hands on one.

#6097 35 days ago

I have my local friend with a few classic Stern pins. So if you have your info we can compare. He just got a Nugent & Dracula in the shop this morning. So 3 & 4 bank here. He has Nine Ball & Catacomb. Another F2K may come in for service.
Fantastic Pinball was trying to get these going along with a few guys in the states. If I can get this going I should be able to get investor(s) to see it done.

#6098 35 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I had this happen on my F2K and now it's happening on my SG... and I can't remember what the problem was on F2K!
Something is shorting out the right spinner switch. It's not registering spins (contacts are clean), but the switch will fire if I touch my finger to something grounded (side rail) and then touch any part of the spinner (bracket, arm, switch), it will start firing. Occasionally it will fire the left flipper rollover switch instead.
One day I'll know how these things work.

YOU are shorting a switch to ground, when you touch the spinner and touch ground with the other hand. It may not be the spinner though.

How do I know this, because I can do the same thing with Stern and Bally games. I'll touch the siderail and touch the spinner, and it may fire off a pop bumper, cause the game to tilt, etc. It all depends on the game. I know that if I touch the left spinner in Kiss and the siderail, the game will tilt.

I would double check the wiring on your spinner and / or the diode. You may have a break in the line that feeds the spinner or the diode is bad (less likely).

#6099 35 days ago

It does not happen when I touch a ground and either of the other two spinners. It also doesn’t occur if I’m touching the unbanded side of the diode, but does if I touch the banded side.

I do wonder if I have the strobe / return wires backwards but that wouldn’t explain the game working fine for weeks, would it? I did replace the diode and tried adding a switch cap (don’t have them on my spinners usually).

Scratch built game with Third Coast wiring, fwiw.

I’m not near the game but I’ll take some pics and vids next time I am.

#6100 35 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

It does not happen when I touch a ground and either of the other two spinners. It also doesn’t occur if I’m touching the unbanded side of the diode, but does if I touch the banded side.
I do wonder if I have the strobe / return wires backwards but that wouldn’t explain the game working fine for weeks, would it? I did replace the diode and tried adding a switch cap (don’t have them on my spinners usually).
Scratch built game with Third Coast wiring, fwiw.
I’m not near the game but I’ll take some pics and vids next time I am.

Just touching a switch with you bare hand enough to light up the switch matrix. Specially if you are standing under some noisy fluorescent lamps or something. Your body antennas enough to mess up the switch matrix. If you hold a ball in your hand and then touch a metal switch part the phenomenon is even more likely to happen.

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