(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

3 years ago


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  • 6,027 posts
  • 330 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 178 Pinsiders

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There are 6,027 posts in this topic. You are on page 121 of 121.
#6001 5 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Here is what you want if you wish to use the lockdown strap that has no tabs.
I recently bought 2 of them. They are quality and built correctly.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/P-6229-27
But I also have a lock strap with the tabs on and just use a plastic channel on top. And actually, I think I like the one with the tabs a little bit better.

I went with this. It seemed to be the most factory solution. Thanks.

#6002 5 days ago

Yes I got that according to the "01" there is something about the 1st coin chute that is wrong.......but the number does not appear to fix itself.

I noticed a hack in this area - I will post a photo later. Not sure if possibly this entire coin door area is not right - it seems like my self-test is not performing like I thought it should.

I'll post a photo later, and will look at some video showing how the Stern tests run so I can better understand.

Thanks for your patience, would love to get this thing finally dialed in correctly, I think I'm close.......I may not be able to continue this evening.

-Nate

#6003 5 days ago

When switch test is up you can pull the coin door connector and see if it changes to zero.

Fwiw the modified mpu200 software also shows all the closed switches, as does the test ROM included in the weebly multi ROM.

#6004 5 days ago

Coin switches usually don't have isolation diodes on them. When stuck closed it can really fudge up the switch matrix.

The start and slam buttons are often found leaning on the grounded coin door which will also mess up the switches, lamps, and displays.

#6005 4 days ago

Meant to say modified meteor software v66-76 and up.... Not the nvram clear only one.

#6006 4 days ago

Here is my coin door.

There is a piece missing, I found from searching videos that the earlier Sterns had a solenoid that would activate "on" during gameplay to allow coins to be fed, and would sit without power, causing a metal bar to stay in place that would feed the coins back to the coin return if the machine were not powered on.

That same video showed the test sequence, and I definitely do not have the ability to touch a switch and see the corresponding number appear on the score displays, I was watching an older Stern video, Memory Lane, but I'm assuming the diagnostic sequences work similar. As mentioned, I just get that switch test, a number 01 appears on all score displays and the "number of balls" window - but nothing changes that display, not touching a switch or anything else......

I have what I suppose are the two wires that have been soldered to a solenoid plastic "plate" with a diode that replaces the solenoid that was mounted to the side of the coin door.

I can probably find a coin door photo and see what's going on.

Once I get back to my machine, I will also look for the start and slam switches making any contact with the metal coin door.

This could be the cause of my 3 target problem?? The switches on that bank are definitely making contact. The closest 3 is still not registering at all.

Thank you again everyone, getting closer......

-Nate

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#6007 4 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

This could be the cause of my 3 target problem??

Yep. Any switch in a matrix can affect other switches in the matrix.

#6008 4 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Once I get back to my machine, I will also look for the start and slam switches making any contact with the metal coin door.

Your slam switch looks like it has an insulator strip between the door skin and the switch, so that should be ok.

The wires to your Coin Chute #1 (closest to the hinge and Switch 01 in the Self Test) look strange. According to the schematic, Chute #1 is supposed to be Red w/ Yellow and Blue wires. Kinda hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like you have Red w/ Yellow, Black, and also White??

It would be great if you could isolate the machine from the coin door for the switch test. You can disconnect the coin door wire harness from the lower cab wire harness, and then on that empty connector on the wire harness side, short the Red and the Yellow w/Red wires together to start the Self Test and again to advance through the tests. If you no longer see 01 in your switch test (or see a number >03), then you've confirmed there's an issue with your coin door wiring or a shorted switch on the coin door.

#6009 4 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

and I definitely do not have the ability to touch a switch and see the corresponding number appear on the score displays

There is always the possibility that the white button you push on could be defective. I have had that problem twice. I replaced the button switch and then I could run through the all of the test and adjustments. You might try putting on some alligators clips at the wire tabs and make connection that way.

#6010 4 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

It would be great if you could isolate the machine from the coin door for the switch test.

He can, easily. It's a weebly board, has the advance switch duplicated on the board itself.

#6011 4 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

He can, easily. It's a weebly board, has the advance switch duplicated on the board itself.

I keep forgetting he's got a weebly.

#6012 4 days ago

Since I sent him a single ROM of the stock version, I am guessing it might be an older board before I went to the 256x options 16M combo ROM, thus lacking a ROM with advanced switch test.

Surprising Bally and Stern did not have a better stock switch test. The stock software that only shows the lowest number is almost worthless in some cases.

MPU200 6digit with advanced sw test - off on on on on off off off
MPU200 7digit with advanced sw test - off on on on off on on off

#6013 3 days ago

Hey everyone, hoping for a little guidance. My neighbor asked me to take a look at his Nugent machine that hasn't worked for a few years. Apparently he had the upper right flipper coil replaced, and it blows the coil fuse ever since.

It took a while to find it, but one blade on the lower right flipper switch stack is shorting out on a screw that attaches the linkage assembly (not sure if that is the proper term) to the playfield. There seems to be some play in the switch stack as that blade can be wiggled to contact that screw as well as the metal piece of the assembly on the other edge of that blade.

There doesn't seem to be much tolerance between that screw and the metal part of the assembly so I'm wondering if this was an improper replacement of that switch stack or perhaps the blade itself. There were some switch blades in the bottom of the cabinet, likely from the previous repair job. Does this look like the proper switch stack for the lower right flipper on Nugent?

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#6014 2 days ago
Quoted from TallGuy:

Hey everyone, hoping for a little guidance. My neighbor asked me to take a look at his Nugent machine that hasn't worked for a few years. Apparently he had the upper right flipper coil replaced, and it blows the coil fuse ever since.
It took a while to find it, but one blade on the lower right flipper switch stack is shorting out on a screw that attaches the linkage assembly (not sure if that is the proper term) to the playfield. There seems to be some play in the switch stack as that blade can be wiggled to contact that screw as well as the metal piece of the assembly on the other edge of that blade.
There doesn't seem to be much tolerance between that screw and the metal part of the assembly so I'm wondering if this was an improper replacement of that switch stack or perhaps the blade itself. There were some switch blades in the bottom of the cabinet, likely from the previous repair job. Does this look like the proper switch stack for the lower right flipper on Nugent?
[quoted image][quoted image]

You might try tightening the 2 small screws that hold the switch stack together.

#6015 2 days ago

Repairing/ fixing a broken Stern lockdown bar receiver.

I have 2 broken lockdown bar receivers. I have a choice. I can buy a new receiver from Mantis for $100.00 each. Or I can fix my receiver. I'll fix mine.

This is a good Stern receiver. All Stern did to make this unit is to bend some metal on a spot welded plate.

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This is what I have. All 4 metal tabs that the handle needs to activate the receiver have been broken off. Don't ask me. I don't know how this stuff breaks. And this is what I need to repair.

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I got a piece of 3/16" steel strap material and went to work.

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First, I sanded the strap smooth and shiny. And you can see my green marker lines that are my cut marks. I used my Harbor Freight cut-off wheel to make these cuts. The work went surprisingly fast.

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Here is the cut piece. It is ready to bond to the broken plate on the receiver.

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For bonding the repair strap I used some stuff called PC-11. You can also use JB Weld. And you can use the brown Gorilla Glue. I almost went with Gorilla Glue but I still have some PC-11 left in my kit so used that instead. Here is the repair part bonded and clamped.

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And the completed job.

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And the completed job.

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And action. It is now working as intended. I have about an hour's worth of work in it. And saved $100.00. The steel strap cost me 11 cents down at the surplus store.

#6016 2 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I don't know how this stuff breaks.

Usually it’s when the mechanism is forced because it has rusted between the bracket and the slide, or whatever is spilled in there is sticky and bonds the surfaces together. The mechanism the gets over stressed and fatigues those thin metal tabs over time, until they eventually fail. A better original design would have had the plates use screws rather than press fittings to allow for it to be cleaned and lubricated.

I like your fix, but you might be better off using an epoxy like jb weld or brown gorilla glue on any future repairs of this type. PC-11 has a rated lap shear strength (this application is only loaded in shear) of 1710 psi, while both epoxy and brown gorilla glue have a rated shear strength of over 3500 psi. I actually didn’t know brown gorilla glue was that strong. I’ll need to pick some up.

Thanks for a great write up. Maybe a mod can make this a sticky.

#6017 2 days ago

Can anyone please confirm whether Magic utilises sound 5 on the sound board? All tones except 5 are working.

#6018 2 days ago
Quoted from arolden:

Can anyone please confirm whether Magic utilises sound 5 on the sound board? All tones except 5 are working.

Yes, Magic utilises all six sounds. The fifth sound is the "add bonus" sound effect.

#6019 2 days ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

you might be better off using an epoxy like jb weld or brown gorilla glue on any future repairs of this type. PC-11 has a rated lap shear strength (this application is only loaded in shear) of 1710 psi, while both epoxy and brown gorilla glue have a rated shear strength of over 3500 psi.

Thank you. I had not thought about shear stress. I doubt I will have any problems with this PC-11 repair, on the next one I will move to Gorilla Glue; I have used GG to bond 2 pieces of aluminum together; They are never coming apart.

Quoted from bigguybbr:

I actually didn’t know brown gorilla glue was that strong. I’ll need to pick some up.

Yes. It grips. The real nice thing is that is swells and fills all gaps between the 2 bonded pieces; Since it swells as it is curing you must clamp the pieces you are bonding together. You will be left with all kinds of squeeze out. But the squeeze out looks like dry spray foam from a can and removes easily.

#6020 1 day ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes, Magic utilises all six sounds. The fifth sound is the "add bonus" sound effect.

Thanks for confirming!

#6021 1 day ago

Cotton and Mathazar:

Thanks for your comments - you are correct about the wire colors - I'm thinking this entire coin door is not quite right.

Also, do all Meteors have a 2 button test mech? I see on older machines it is just the one.

I may ask for a good photo of a correct coin door wiring, unless I find one already online.

Haven't had a chance to tinker, but will return with report!

Thank you again for your patience and helpful comments.

-Nate

#6022 1 day ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Also, do all Meteors have a 2 button test mech? I see on older machines it is just the one.

I have an older. It has an extra red screen printed layer on the meteor art around the bumper and a single button in the coin door.

#6023 1 day ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Also, do all Meteors have a 2 button test mech? I see on older machines it is just the one.

My Meteor (S/N 2062) also has just the 1 button. I believe the second button is to "clear" which is kinda handy so you can perform all of the clearing functions right there at the coin door (and not have to remove the backglass, open the backbox door, and access the memory clear button on the MPU itself).

Not sure when the 2nd button on the coin door was introduced, but I'm pretty sure my Meteor is considered "early" based on the S/N (and that they made just under 8,000 of these according to IPDB).

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#6024 1 day ago
Quoted from A_Bord:

I have an older. It has an extra red screen printed layer on the meteor art around the bumper

My original playfield had that as well (I've since put in a CPR). Would be interesting to know if all 1-button Meteors also have that extra red screen printed layer and vice-versa.

#6025 1 day ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

I may ask for a good photo of a correct coin door wir

A photo can be had easily enough. But how about we show you how to look at the blue prints and teach you how to wire it up without a pic?

#6026 3 hours ago

Can someone please show me where the backglass lock bar should sit in the open and locked positions? I just added the tabbed trim piece to the top of my Seawitch backglass and I can't get the lock bar to engage with the backglass. I can lift out the backglass in the locked position regardless of where the lock bar is positioned. The tabs seem to be about a 1/4" to short to make contact.

#6027 1 hour ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Can someone please show me where the backglass lock bar should sit in the open and locked positions? I just added the tabbed trim piece to the top of my Seawitch backglass and I can't get the lock bar to engage with the backglass. I can lift out the backglass in the locked position regardless of where the lock bar is positioned. The tabs seem to be about a 1/4" to short to make contact.

This is the repro lock strap from Kerry at Mantis. There is always the possibility that Kerry mis-measured something on your lock strap but I think that is not likely .

Also, to make sure we are on same page, the locking strap with the tangs, such as this one, requires you to use a plastic trim rail for the top of your back glass.

If you have installed the back glass trim piece that looks like this one with the tabs, then you need then lock strap without the locking tangs.

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This is in unlocked position. The locking tab is leaning back and butting up against the back box wood.

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This is locked position.

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Butting my 12" scale up against the tang on locked position,

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And then measuring up from the bottom, my tape meets the 12" scale at 13 5/8.

12 + 13 5/8 = 25 5/8". This is the measurement from the the lock tang to the bottom of the back box where the bottom of the back glass /lift rail .rests.

And my back glass does measure 25 5/8" from top to the bottom. So, with both of my dimensions measuring 25 5/8" it is a tight fit for the locking strap.

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So, get a good measurement of your back glass and then do what I did to measure the opening in the back box. And go from there.

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There are 6,027 posts in this topic. You are on page 121 of 121.

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